AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sat 02/05/11


Total Messages Posted: 15



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:41 AM - Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (chris Sinfield)
     2. 06:08 AM - Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (Mike Welch)
     3. 07:52 AM - Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 08:24 AM - Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (Don Hudgeon)
     5. 10:37 AM - Heated pitot Question (Peter Mather)
     6. 11:12 AM - Re: Heated pitot Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 11:14 AM - Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 11:57 AM - Re: Heated pitot Question (Bob McCallum)
     9. 02:16 PM - Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (Don Hudgeon)
    10. 06:52 PM - terminate shielded cables in Sub D (Ianrat)
    11. 07:50 PM - Re: terminate shielded cables in Sub D (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 07:50 PM - Re: wire squash connections (Franz Fux)
    13. 07:52 PM - Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q.. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    14. 07:53 PM - Re: Re: Low resistance measurement adapter. (Don)
    15. 09:17 PM - Re: terminate shielded cables in Sub D (Ianrat)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:41:47 AM PST US
    Subject: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
    Hi everyone. I am wiring up my 2 seater plane and have a few Q's after reading all the info. I will just use the internal 2 place hot mic intercom system. The wiring diagram has an external intercom switch. Do I still need it and what is it for? Also there are 2 options for the rear radio connection. A 30 pin molex or a 15 pin D sub. What have people been using to connect to? Pros and cons? I want to use the 3 audio inputs and can not see how I can do this with the D sub and without a separate intercom box. Also it calls for a 10 Amp CB not a fuse? is this so if you get a hot TX mic you can pull the CB?? the Aero Electric connection guide only a 5 amp fuse for the Icom 200/A210?? Am I missing somthing? Chris.. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329696#329696


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:08:20 AM PST US
    From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    > I will just use the internal 2 place hot mic intercom system. The wiring diagram has an external intercom switch. Do I still need it and what is it for? > > Also there are 2 options for the rear radio connection. A 30 pin molex or a 15 pin D sub. > > What have people been using to connect to? Pros and cons? > > I want to use the 3 audio inputs and can not see how I can do this with t he D sub and without a separate intercom box. > > Also it calls for a 10 Amp CB not a fuse? is this so if you get a hot TX mic you can pull the CB?? the Aero Electric connection guide only a 5 amp f use for the Icom 200/A210?? Am I missing something? > > Chris.. Hi Chris=2C A few months ago=2C I asked many of the same questions to this list. I t hink it was Bob N. that suggested the DB15 plug. I am very pleased with the plug for a connec tion. I also wondered about using the internal intercom in my Icom A200. Some guys said they weren't especially thrilled with the internal intercom=2C and I would be better off with a separate panel mount one. Although I didn't have a panel mount intercom=2C I did have a portable So ftComm intercom=2C and made a rectangular hole for it in my console. For the most part=2C it looks like a built-in model=2C and what is really nice is=2C it has all the plug receptacles and so forth already available. I simply took it apart and added a few wires for the things I needed to c onvert it to panel mount style. Wires like: positive and negative "hot"=2C so that I didn't n eed the 9 volt battery=2C Icom hookup wires=2C and I added the Dynon audio alarm signal to one of the "audio in" locations. (as per the SoftComm tech guy's approval). After I got the whole arrangement finished=2C I'm very pleased with the r esults! The DB15 plug is the perfect choice=2C the separate intercom allows for more control of i ntercom functions ( I believe)=2C and any additional audio requirements like alarms=2C music=2C e tc. are very easy to add. Regarding the circuit breaker=2C the Icom installaion is not real clear. One place says 10A=2C then another refers to 5A. (or some kind of confusion like that). I think I called Icom=2C but in any event=2C I went with the 5A breaker. I think it was in the Icom's spec s where it says it's maximum current was around 2 amps. I have mine hooked up to a 5A breaker =2C but I seem to recall someone on this list said a 10A breaker would hurt. I'd just go wit h 5. BTW=2C there are a few intercom companies that I found that have wiring d iagrams for their particular intercom models to hook up to various aircraft comm radios . Sigtronics is one that I know of. I used their wiring diagram to coach me through the SoftComm wiring points. Once I felt like I had everything figured out=2C I called and veri fied I was on the right path with SoftComm. Worked perfect on the initial test!!! Mike Welch


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:52:48 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    At 05:37 AM 2/5/2011, you wrote: <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au> I will just use the internal 2 place hot mic intercom system. The wiring diagram has an external intercom switch. Do I still need it and what is it for? The manuals are not helpful as to the function of this switch. With a voice activated intercom, you don't need the press-to-talk button associated with hot-mike intercoms. However, I would suggest you bring some wires out for this switch and then explore what it does after you've got it up and running. It may be a handy way to turn the intercom function OFF . . . which could be handy if you're busy talking to controllers and you don't want inadvertent conversation from the right seat passenger to go out on the radio. For all of ICOM's expertise in electronics, their manuals leave some things to be desired. Perhaps somebody here on the List has explored the function of that switch and can advise you. Also there are 2 options for the rear radio connection. A 30 pin molex or a 15 pin D sub. As Mike pointed out, the D-Sub is much preferred . . . . but it does not exactly parallel the Molex connnector for wire functions. If you need ANY of the wires in the Molex connector for your installation, then you're pretty much stuck with that connector. It's not a "bad" connector but the D-sub is much "better". I want to use the 3 audio inputs and can not see how I can do this with the D sub and without a separate intercom box. Aha! you've discovered the missing wires in the D-sub. If you want to use the internal audio isolation amplifier you'll need to use the Molex. Also it calls for a 10 Amp CB not a fuse? is this so if you get a hot TX mic you can pull the CB?? the Aero Electric connection guide only a 5 amp fuse for the Icom 200/A210?? Am I missing somthing? No, that 5A fuse call out in my drawings is an artifact from having produced a wiring diagram for the MicroAir 760. The manuals for the ICOM call out 5A max draw in transmit, so you need to up size to 7A fuse, or 10A or what ever. Remember, fuses and breakers protect wires. A long as they're matched to the wire large enough to avoid nuisance trips, then you're good to go. I need go fix that drawing . . . which is about 10 years old. I'm going to up size to 7A fuse. I AM a bit disappointed that you're the FIRST to have brought it to my attention. Thanks! Bob . . .


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:24:51 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    From: Don Hudgeon <don@hudgeon.com>
    Hello Chris I have recently installed a A210 in my Kitfox. I just wired in a push button switch (like a PTT) to the intercom switch wires. One push and it either connects or disconnects the intercom. Works great for a noisy cockpit like mine. Cheers Don On Sat, Feb 5, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > > At 05:37 AM 2/5/2011, you wrote: > chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au> > > > I will just use the internal 2 place hot mic intercom system. The wiring > diagram has an external intercom switch. Do I still need it and what is it > for? > > The manuals are not helpful as to the function of this > switch. With a voice activated intercom, you don't need > the press-to-talk button associated with hot-mike intercoms. > However, I would suggest you bring some wires out > for this switch and then explore what it does after > you've got it up and running. It may be a handy way > to turn the intercom function OFF . . . which could > be handy if you're busy talking to controllers and you > don't want inadvertent conversation from the right seat > passenger to go out on the radio. > > For all of ICOM's expertise in electronics, their > manuals leave some things to be desired. Perhaps > somebody here on the List has explored the function > of that switch and can advise you. > > > Also there are 2 options for the rear radio connection. A 30 pin molex or a > 15 pin D sub. > > As Mike pointed out, the D-Sub is much preferred . . . . > but it does not exactly parallel the Molex connnector > for wire functions. If you need ANY of the wires in > the Molex connector for your installation, then > you're pretty much stuck with that connector. It's > not a "bad" connector but the D-sub is much "better". > > > I want to use the 3 audio inputs and can not see how I can do this with the > D sub and without a separate intercom box. > > Aha! you've discovered the missing wires in the D-sub. > If you want to use the internal audio isolation amplifier > you'll need to use the Molex. > > Also it calls for a 10 Amp CB not a fuse? is this so if you get a hot TX > mic you can pull the CB?? the Aero Electric connection guide only a 5 amp > fuse for the Icom 200/A210?? Am I missing somthing? > > No, that 5A fuse call out in my drawings is an artifact > from having produced a wiring diagram for the MicroAir > 760. The manuals for the ICOM call out 5A max draw in > transmit, so you need to up size to 7A fuse, or 10A or > what ever. Remember, fuses and breakers protect wires. > A long as they're matched to the wire large enough to > avoid nuisance trips, then you're good to go. > > I need go fix that drawing . . . which is about 10 > years old. I'm going to up size to 7A fuse. I AM a bit > disappointed that you're the FIRST to have brought it > to my attention. Thanks! > > > Bob . . . > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:37:53 AM PST US
    From: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
    Subject: Heated pitot Question
    I've got a heated pitot off a C182 (28V) that I want to use on a Tailwind I'm building (www.tailwindbuild.blogspot.com). Originally I assumed that I would not bother with the heater as the aircraft will not be used for IFR (not allowed for experimentals in the UK) and will have a 14V electrical system. But, as an experiment, I wired the pitot up to my bench supply and at 14V it pulls 4amps and gets too hot to touch. Is there any reason not to just wire it off the 14V supply? At 50W+ of heat it presumably is better than nothing? Thanks Peter


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:12:19 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Heated pitot Question
    At 01:32 PM 2/5/2011, you wrote: >I've got a heated pitot off a C182 (28V) that I want to use on a >Tailwind I'm building >(<http://www.tailwindbuild.blogspot.com>www.tailwindbuild.blogspot..com). >Originally I assumed that I would not bother with the heater as the >aircraft will not be used for IFR (not allowed for experimentals in >the UK) and will have a 14V electrical system. But, as an >experiment, I wired the pitot up to my bench supply and at 14V it >pulls 4amps and gets too hot to touch. Is there any reason not to >just wire it off the 14V supply? At 50W+ of heat it presumably is >better than nothing? Having a heated pitot tube was always an option on Cessna single engine airplanes . . . and not a cheap option either. But if one watches some certification programs for flight into known icing, the idea that dumping few hundred watts of heat into a pitot tube is a good and useful thing to do becomes problematic. The kind of ice that plugs a pitot tube is also the kind of ice that covers windshields, gathers on prop roots, leading edges of wings. and any other sticky-out thing like landing gear. Any time you even THINK you've gathered some ice, the prudent action is to take immediate measures to get out . . . 180 turn, change altitude, etc. This (or a similar) philosophy for icing encounters should have you breathing easier in a much shorter period of time . . . and probably before the pitot tube ices over. The pitot tube is but one of MANY potential victims for ice accretion. Knowing the true value of IAS is of little value when the airplane wont fly well at any achievable IAS. Hooking your heater up to provide 1/4th the design value for deicing energy is a whistle in the dark when you need a good flashlight! Bob . . .


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:14:20 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    At 11:14 AM 2/5/2011, you wrote: >Hello Chris > >I have recently installed a A210 in my Kitfox. I just wired in a >push button switch (like a PTT) to the intercom switch wires. One >push and it either connects or disconnects the intercom. Works great >for a noisy cockpit like mine. So if I interpret your words correctly, this button is a push-enable/push-disable control for the intercom. An when the intercom is enabled, it functions as the legacy voice-activated intercom with adjustable squelch levels. Does this sound right? Thanks! Good data point. Bob . . .


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:57:24 AM PST US
    From: Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Heated pitot Question
    Peter; You could do that if you wish but you will be generating only =BC of the designed wattage. While this low level of heat might provide some protection you must remember that the wind-chill effect is considerable and that while it may be too hot to touch on the bench, when flying it may only be slightly warm. True values of 4 amps @ 14 volts provides just under 60 watts of heat (56) whereas on 28 volts you will get close to 230 watts , a significant difference. The manufacturer obviously considered it prudent to provide over 200 watts and =BC of that may not be adequate to accomplish much of anything. It would be your call to decide if it=92s worth it. A properly functioning pitot tube heating on the bench is not only too hot to touch, but will come close to branding you. Bob McC _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Mather Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 1:32 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Heated pitot Question I=92ve got a heated pitot off a C182 (28V) that I want to use on a Tailwind I=92m building (www.tailwindbuild.blogspot.com). Originally I assumed that I would not bother with the heater as the aircraft will not be used for IFR (not allowed for experimentals in the UK) and will have a 14V electrical system. But, as an experiment, I wired the pitot up to my bench supply and at 14V it pulls 4amps and gets too hot to touch. Is there any reason not to just wire it off the 14V supply? At 50W+ of heat it presumably is better than nothing? Thanks Peter


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:16:54 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    From: Don Hudgeon <don@hudgeon.com>
    Hello Bob That`s right. First I had a ordinary off/on toggle switch, but I found that it had to toggled both ways each time in order to activate or deactivate the intercom. Now I just push the switch once. I mounted the switch up next to the radio so either side can activate. For my noisy cockpit I have the intercom shut off always unless conversing with a passenger. It is also possible to connect/disconnect on the radio but this requires finding the function on the menu. Switch,much more convenient. Cheers Don On Sat, Feb 5, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > At 11:14 AM 2/5/2011, you wrote: > >> Hello Chris >> >> I have recently installed a A210 in my Kitfox. I just wired in a push >> button switch (like a PTT) to the intercom switch wires. One push and it >> either connects or disconnects the intercom. Works great for a noisy cockpit >> like mine. >> > > So if I interpret your words correctly, this button > is a push-enable/push-disable control for the intercom. > An when the intercom is enabled, it functions as the > legacy voice-activated intercom with adjustable squelch > levels. Does this sound right? > > Thanks! Good data point. > > > Bob . . . > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:52:08 PM PST US
    Subject: terminate shielded cables in Sub D
    From: "Ianrat" <ianrat@powerup.com.au>
    I have to run about 5 separate shielded wire back into a Sub D plug. What is the best way to connect all of the shields together as the have to go to only one pin. Should they soldered together and then only one lead to the pin. Thank you. Ianrat CH601XLB Brisbane Australia Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329806#329806


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:50:51 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: terminate shielded cables in Sub D
    At 09:48 PM 2/5/2011, you wrote: > >I have to run about 5 separate shielded wire back into a Sub D plug. >What is the best way to connect all of the shields together as the >have to go to only one pin. Should they soldered together and then >only one lead to the pin. Yes, see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:50:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: wire squash connections
    From: Franz Fux <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
    Hi I have Gentex H33 helmet that I would like to convert from mono to stereo to fit the newly installed PM3000. Does anybody know if such conversion kits exists or are there any companies that could help me out Thanks for your help Franz


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:52:37 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Icom A210 Wiring Q..
    At 05:13 PM 2/5/2011, you wrote: >Hello Bob > >That`s right. First I had a ordinary off/on toggle switch, but I >found that it had to toggled both ways each time in order to >activate or deactivate the intercom. Now I just push the switch >once. I mounted the switch up next to the radio so either side can >activate. For my noisy cockpit I have the intercom shut off always >unless conversing with a passenger.. It is also possible to >connect/disconnect on the radio but this requires finding the >function on the menu. Switch,much more convenient. Great data point. I which the manual was more clear on this. Bob . . .


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:53:52 PM PST US
    From: "Don" <dsvs@ca.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Low resistance measurement adapter.
    Bob, Are these shipping yet? From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:11 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low resistance measurement adapter. At 05:20 PM 1/26/2011, you wrote: Bob; I'd be interested in the device. I have orders for several. You can join them at: https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AECcatalog.html Bob . . .


    Message 15


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    Time: 09:17:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: terminate shielded cables in Sub D
    From: "Ianrat" <ianrat@powerup.com.au>
    Brilliant! That is exactly what i need. That is why i like this forum I have booked mark your site for further investigation. Thank you Ianrat CH601XLB Brisbane Australia Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329819#329819




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