Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:58 AM - Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed ign. (Carlos Trigo)
2. 07:06 AM - Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill. (Charles Brame)
3. 07:29 AM - Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire (user9253)
4. 07:53 AM - Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire (rvg8tor)
5. 08:09 AM - Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire (rvg8tor)
6. 08:30 AM - Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed ign. (plevyakh)
7. 09:13 AM - For Sale on Barnstormers (Harley)
8. 04:57 PM - Re: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed ign. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed |
ign.
Hi Howard
I like very much your load analysis, and your electric schematic as
well, and I will probably use it in a future project, or in refurbishing
my current aircraft, which has an electric dependant engine.
Our guru (=98lectric Bob) already answered your questions, and I
have not enough knowledge to answer your questions 1 to 3 or comment on
his answers.
I will just comment on some details of your architecture, and make some
questions in order to learn something else.
a) In the SD-8 circuit, you have put a =9CLow Volts Aux
Alt=9D LED light that seems it will be permanently On, since it is
directly connected to the (+) terminal of the Main Battery through the
NC terminal of the Aux Alt S704-1 relay. Is that wrong on your
schematic, or am I wrong?
b) Why did you connect the Fuel Primer pump to your =9Calways
hot=9D Main Battery Bus?
c) In this =9Calways hot=9D Main Battery Bus, you have a
connection (lower left) called =9CEndurance Bus=9D, which is
not connected to the Endurance Bus, but rather to the COM terminal of
the S704-1 =9CBrownout Battery Relay, which is connected to the
(+) terminal of the Aux Battery, except when you push the Start button .
Would you please explain this connection and this relay function?
Regards
Carlos
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of plevyakh
> Sent: segunda-feira, 7 de Mar=C3=A7o de 2011 0:44
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual
Lightspeed
> ign.
>
>
> Folks,
> I've made up my electrical system plan and sure would appreciate some
fresh eyes
> and input.
>
> 4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I
make?
> Can it be simplified?
>
> I've attached two versions of the architecture. One is printable (4
pages) to read,
> and the other screen viewable. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve also
attached my electrical bus load
> analysis.
>
> Thanks in advance for any inputs!
> Howard
>
> --------
> Howard Plevyak
> GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio
> hplevyak@mac.com
>
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| Subject: | Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill. |
My 9.8 volt drill battery lasted only a month or so when new. It would
have cost twice the drill price just to get a replacement battery. So,
I've been running the 9.8 volt drill from a 12.8 volt PC-680 for a
couple of years. Works great.
Charlie Brame
RV6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------------------------
> Time: 04:51:58 PM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless
> drill.
> From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>
> http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=87399
>
> Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill.
> I have been working on outfitting trailers for a solar charging
> station trailer
> project that has the trailers scattered apart by at least a few
> hundred feet.
> It is far easier to carry around a 12 pound line cord than it is to
> try and run
> a few hundred feet of extension cord or move a ton and a half
> trailer to were
> the power is.
> This model Dewalt cordless drill comes with NiCad batteries that are
> somewhere
> around 2000 to 2200 mAs and 12 volts.
> We purchased a NiMh aftermarket replacement that comes in at 3000
> mAs. It's a pain
> running back and forth to a charger with now only two battery packs.
> It's
> true that three packs that are now retired were not new, hard use
> didn't do them
> any good.
> Anyway we grabbed some fairly flexable well insulated round wire and
> tied the hot,
> neutral and ground together and used one each to the posative and
> negative
> of a ~ 5,000 to 8,000 mA (realistic output under drill load pulled
> down to 12.1
> volts (approx 50%)) lead acid battery, using the carcus of one of
> the dead
> packs to get power to the drill. FYI, this Harbor Freight jump start
> pack has
> the battery marked at 17aH, but with a 330 mA load, it nets out at
> only 12,000
> mAs (12aH).
> Bottom line is it works a treat! Thus far a full day of use has not
> run battery
> down.
> To tweak performance just a little, thicker wire could be used.
> Yellow pack to the left of drill is NiCad pack.
> Black pack below the NiCad pack is aftermarket NiMh pack.
> Ron Parigoris
> Y11-03-06
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332974#332974
>
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| Subject: | Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire |
> the 10A when on the EMS page should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS
True if both are powered from the same bus. But if one EMS gets its power through
a diode and the other does not, then they will show different voltages.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333052#333052
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| Subject: | Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire |
You are correct, my grounds are good but there is a difference in voltage due to
the diode the power goes through to get to the E-Bus. I was surprised to see
the difference in that the D10A is and EFIS only unit not and EMS, but through
the Dynon DSAB network you can display different items on the D10A screen to
include engine instruments. My surprise was I thought showing this data should
just be a repeat of the main EMS information.
My real question here is given that there is a voltage difference between the main
bus and the E-bus by about .6 volts which bus would be the best place to have
the standby alternator monitor bus voltage. The standby regulator is set
to a lower voltage so if the main alternator is operating fine the standby just
stays idle, when the bus it monitors falls below the set point in the standby
regulator then it wakes up and starts to provide power.
user9253 wrote:
>
> > the 10A when on the EMS page should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS
>
> True if both are powered from the same bus. But if one EMS gets its power through
a diode and the other does not, then they will show different voltages.
> Joe
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333054#333054
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| Subject: | Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> At 01:58 PM 3/6/2011, you wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I have just powered up my panel and I have two EFIS units that talk
> > to each other (Dynon 180 and a 10A), I was putting the 10A on the
> > EMS page and noticed that the voltage reported on it was 13.4 V and
> > the voltage on the D180 (which is the box with the EMS) was showing
> > 12.8 V. I have things powered with a power supply putting out 13.8
> > volts and the battery is out of the loop. I will have to run down
> > why this is from Dynon but it got me to thinking
> >
> > Since there is a voltage drop when the power flows from the main bus
> > to the E-Bus through the diode, I wonder where the best place for
> > voltage sensing wire should be, since it will activate on a lower
> > voltage from the main bus.
> >
> >
>
> Can you disable/work-around on the low votlage warning
> for the device powered from the e-bus? Normally, one
> low voltage warning system suffices.
>
> Not sure what you meant here but my primary low voltage warning will be the EFIS
alarm, since it monitors voltage.
>
>
> > Right now I have the Low Voltage light and sense wire on the same
> > breaker on the main bus which gets the highest voltage, the D180 is
> > on the E-bus so its power is going through the E-bus diode. I am
> > not sure if this is why I see the voltage difference between the two
> > displays, I kind of think not because the 10A when on the EMS page
> > should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS.
> >
> > But all this begs the question is there a "Best" location for a
> > standby alternator regulator to monitor the system voltage? Main bus or E-bus?
> >
> >
>
> Which z-figure are you using? If Z-13/8, the
> rectifier/regulator gets it's voltage sense
> info from the system it's powering. That
> would be true also for any other auxiliary
> engine driven power source.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
>
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> ================================
My system is Z12 so the standby alternator attaches at the start contactor and
then uses the same main bus feed wire. I have the alternate feed switching for
the hot battery bus to the E-bus as a way to isolate the E-bus if I get to a
battery only situation.
Since the standby regulator needs to monitor bus voltage I have it set up to monitor
the main bus. As you can see the low voltage alarm off the EFIS will be
different from what the standby regulator reads due to the drop in the diode.
I think I can work around the issue in that the EFIS #2 attached to the main
bus has it's own alarms and I can set that to my specifications.
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333055#333055
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| Subject: | Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed |
ign.
"Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include:
1) How best to wire the dual Lightspeed electronic ignitions to ensure they see
higher than 8.5V during engine start to minimize chance of starter kickback."
> Bob Answer: Turn the ignition switches on after you hit the starter button.
The 'brownout' lasts but 100 milliseconds or so. Is the 8.5v number from Lightspeed?
I believe the ignition systems run at well under 8.5 volts.
>
> ??? Don't understand Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 ignition sparking
3&4 ??????
I'd prefer a more elegant solution to what you suggest Bob. I know that's a simpler
one....but with my spouse flying or others down the road....I'm sure that
"ops manual bold face procedure" would get missed.
The Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 ignition sparking #3 & 4 cylinders is
a type O mistake in my schematic. I have updated it to "LSE CD Ignition Box #1,
and LSE CD Ignition Box #2".
Per the LSE Install manual: "Dual systems can be connected to each other such
that each system knows if the other one is operating. If one of the two systems
is turned off or has failed, the remaining system will automatically shift
its timing curve to provide optimum engine performance with one system. This
eliminates the common power loss when one magneto is turned off. The extremely
wide operating voltage range, from 5v-35v allows hand starting long after the
electric starter has stopped due to a low battery."
You are correct on the Lightspeed operating voltages. Service Bulletin PL-2 dated
6/26/2006 state that the "minimum supply voltage for starting is 6.5 volts,
and minimum operating voltage is 5.5 volts"
See URL here the Lightspeed Service bulletins: http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/News/ServiceBulletins.htm
Service Bulletin PL-1B addresses "Misfire during Start and Kickbacks"... This SB
states that "unmodified systems shipped before 12/04 can misfire if the supply
voltage drops below 8.5V repeated during cranking. This can only occur if
the starter draws excessive current and the battery is not sized for that current
requirement. .... Toggle switch operated systems have no tendency to misfire,
(the issue was triggered by the rapid "on" / "off" "on" sequence of the
key switch motion)."
I have U3+ versions of the Plasma Ignition boxes and I'm using TOGGLE switches.
So I think my boxes are good to 6.5V min. for starting. I have an email to
Klaus Savier at LSE to confirm this.
So if my starter sees ~10V, and my LSE Ignition box timing firing is good down
to a starting voltage of 6.5V....should I NOT worry about a potential for misfire?
I'm thinking of that cold day scenario where it might be tough to get the engine
started.
What I'm not clear on is what happens if main battery circuit or the brownout battery
circuit drops down below the minimum starting voltage?
With a good battery maint. program, the probability is very low of an issue, but
I'd still like to know how would the dual LSE Ignition systems respond?
I'm hoping that with the Dual system interconnect, the box on the circuit with
voltage greater than min. starting voltage would still keep the timing in order
and no issues with starting. I know this is a question for Klaus at LSE, but
wondering if anyone with dual LSE ignitions can shed some light?
====
"I'm using a Skytec 149-12LS starter (PMG) which has the high current draw at start.
Should I move both Lightspeed ignitions to a Brownout Battery Bus?"
> Bob Answer: No. I'd put one on a battery bus, the other on the e-bus. If you
were sparking all 4 cylinders with EACH ignition system, then alternator-out
ops would call for turning one ignition OFF>
Agreed. Each Ignition box sparkles all 4 cyl. So if main alternator is out, then
I think my ops procedure would be:
1) MAIN L-60 ALTERNATOR FIELD CIRCUIT BREAKER - PULL
2) DC POWER MASTER SWITCH - OFF
- drops off main battery contactor (1amp) and main bus...saving amps
3) AUX SD-8 ALTERNATOR SWITCH - ON
- brings online SD-8 yielding 5.4 to 7.0 amps with 2150 prop RPM
4) EBUS ALTERNATE FEED SWITCH - ON
- provides power to endurance bus
5) LIGHTSPEED IGNITION #1 SWITCH - OFF
- to save 1.3amps from main battery drain
-------------------------------------------------------
LSE has a recommended Dual Power Supply wiring schematic. I've attached below, and link is also here. http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/Manuals/PS_Diagram.htm
Should I just simplify my dual batt brownout schematic and just use a single Shottky
diode between the two as shown in LSE's schematic?
"3) How best to wire my dual Grand Rapids EFIS/AHRS and the Engine Info System
(EIS 4000) to enable them to be ON during engine start. I want the EIS on to
monitor engine vitals (oil pressure). For the EFIS/AHRSit can take up to two
minutes to align the AHRS, and I'd prefer not to burn gas, make noise, and
blow stuff around while I wait for alignment."
> Bob Answer: At engine idle? Don't you let things warm up a bit before you drive
off? I think there are plenty of things on a well crafted check-list to soak
up 2 minutes while the AHRS gets up on its feet.
>
> If you're charging off into the deep woods with this airplane, battery maintenance
is VERY high on the list. I think I'd rather have a better payload and one
battery that's changed out often than two batteries that need extra-ordinary
attention.
"Id like everything ready, checklist complete up to the point of "ignition", then
start up, and taxi away. Im considering moving the 2nd EFIS/AHRS to the Endurance
bus as well, or a Brownout Battery Bus."
> Bob Answer: Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an operating procedure
that accommodates the special needs for some accessories.
I prefer to find out issues with my EFIS/EIS system before engine start. In addition,
Grand Rapids Tech. in their installation manual pg. 6-1, recommends in
section 6.2 Power Connections:
"It is desirable to not have the display units and AHRS connected to the power
supply supplying power to the engine starter during the engine start (to maximize
current available for the starter, and possibly extend the life of the CCFL
backlight in the display unit), this feature allows the fitting of a small (3-5AH)
auxiliary battery to one of the power input connections provide power to
the EFIS during engine start."
I could size the AUX/Brownout battery 17AH (15.3 lbs) down to a 5AH (5.9 lbs),
but I do like the idea of two batteries the same size and swapping out one each
year for a new one. An Aux. PC680 also gives me approx. 2.6hrs at an endurance
bus load of 4.6 amps.
"4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I make? Can
it be simplified?"
> Bob Answer: Yes . . . none that I can see beyond questions cited above . .
. and yes.
>
> Bob . . .
Lastly, I wanted to add...You and the AEC forum are just an INCREDIBLE resource!
THANK-YOU for writing the AEC book and providing a place for us electrical
challenged guys to bang heads and build better airplanes!
--------
Howard Plevyak
GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio
hplevyak@mac.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333058#333058
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/glastar_schematic_v0c1_7mar2011_for_review_653.gif
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dual_power_supply_diagram_358.gif
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| Subject: | For Sale on Barnstormers |
I'm finally getting around to putting some unused Long EZ parts
up for sale on Barnstormers. This morning I listed an unused Ken
Brock carburetor heat valve (I'll be using a ram air box which
includes the heat valve) and the entire Brock manual nose gear
retractor. Includes new gears, spring strut, strut bracket,
crank, bushing and rod.
The gear retractor was installed, but has never been flown. I've
replaced it with an electric gear retractor, so the entire system
is for sale, not including the NG14 spacer rods and the NG4
bracket...both of which are used on my new system. NG14 is just
an aluminum rod and NG4 is sheet steel. Both are easily
fabricated and included in the included plans. The gears are like
new, but will need to be lubed before use.
If interested (or just want to look) Just go to the Barnstormer's
search box ( www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?mode=search) and type
in "Brock". There are currently only four ads there...the above
items are the first two (obviously <G>). They are priced well
below their current ACS prices.
Harley Dixon
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| Subject: | Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual |
Lightspeed ign.
At 11:26 AM 3/7/2011, you wrote:
>
>"Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include:
>
>
>I'd prefer a more elegant solution to what you suggest Bob. I know
>that's a simpler one....but with my spouse flying or others down the
>road....I'm sure that "ops manual bold face procedure" would get missed.
>Per the LSE Install manual: "Dual systems can be connected to each
>other such that each system knows if the other one is operating. If
>one of the two systems is turned off or has failed, the remaining
>system will automatically shift its timing curve to provide optimum
>engine performance with one system. This eliminates the common
>power loss when one magneto is turned off. The extremely wide
>operating voltage range, from 5v-35v allows hand starting long after
>the electric starter has stopped due to a low battery.
>You are correct on the Lightspeed operating voltages. Service
>Bulletin PL-2 dated 6/26/2006 state that the "minimum supply voltage
>for starting is 6.5 volts, and minimum operating voltage is 5.5 volts"
>See URL here the Lightspeed Service bulletins:
>http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/News/ServiceBulletins.htm
>
>Service Bulletin PL-1B addresses "Misfire during Start and
>Kickbacks"... This SB states that "unmodified systems shipped before
>12/04 can misfire if the supply voltage drops below 8.5V repeated
>during cranking. This can only occur if the starter draws excessive
>current and the battery is not sized for that current requirement.
Which obviously will not be a condition on your airplane . . .
> .... Toggle switch operated systems have no tendency to misfire,
> (the issue was triggered by the rapid "on" / "off" "on" sequence of
> the key switch motion)."
>
>I have U3+ versions of the Plasma Ignition boxes and I'm using
>TOGGLE switches. So I think my boxes are good to 6.5V min. for
>starting. I have an email to Klaus Savier at LSE to confirm this.
Okay, a solution from Klaus's perspective would be a
software fix in his product so that sparking cannot commence
until the after two crank triggers are sensed . . . or
just a timing sequence that holds the system quiet until
a few hundred milliseconds after starter initiation.
But yes, I think you're worrying about something that
doesn't happen except in the most abusive of battery
conditions. The TC aircraft guys do lots of mystifying
things with their airplanes. I'm hoping that folks
who hang out here on the List will give their
battery choices AND maintenance and educated degree
of respect.
>So if my starter sees ~10V, and my LSE Ignition box timing firing is
>good down to a starting voltage of 6.5V....should I NOT worry about
>a potential for misfire?
How does your ignition system voltage get to be anything
less than what the starter sees?
The brownout occurs during motor inrush . . . zero-rpm at
start=up means the starter draws stall current. Maybe
over 1000A with a good battery and stiff wiring. Here's
a plot I took off a GMC Safari with a wound field starter
and an RG battery
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/95_GMC_Safari_1.gif
Here's one I got off a Saturn with smaller engine, PM
starter and wet battery
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/99_Saturn_SL1.jpg
Here's another Saturn shot at higher resolution in time
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/99_Saturn_SL1_2.gif
Note that cranking current goes nowhere but down
and after 250 mS the battery V is up over 10V.
Airplane engines crank similarly.
>I'm thinking of that cold day scenario where it might be tough to
>get the engine started.
The concern is not for extended cranking but for the
initial effects of accelerating a very low resistance
PM motor.
>What I'm not clear on is what happens if main battery circuit or the
>brownout battery circuit drops down below the minimum starting voltage?
?? not sure about the point of the question. The
purpose of the brownout protection battery is to
insure this doesn't happen. Any time the voltage
drops below the manufacturer's specified minimums,
operating performance is not guaranteed. This doesn't
necessarily mean you should EXPECT any particular
symptom . . . unless those symptoms are also called
out by the manufacturer.
My general sense is that piling two batteries into
your airplane will have a negative effect on
payloads while adding no measurable or demonstrable
benefits.
>With a good battery maint. program, the probability is very low of
>an issue, but I'd still like to know how would the dual LSE Ignition
>systems respond?
>
>I'm hoping that with the Dual system interconnect, the box on the
>circuit with voltage greater than min. starting voltage would still
>keep the timing in order and no issues with starting. I know this
>is a question for Klaus at LSE, but wondering if anyone with dual
>LSE ignitions can shed some light?
That 'timing' issue is for RUNNING operations only
and is a very small issue at that. ALL starting ops
are after top dead center irrespective of how many
ignitions are running. And as I mentioned before,
alternator out ops should call for shutting one
system off . . . even if it did result in a slight
reduction of power. Your PLAN-B needs to acknowledge
that a significant failure has occurred and subsequent
operations are designed for minimizing risk to a
happy ending of the flight . . . not keeping all
the electro-whizzies running.
>Agreed. Each Ignition box sparkles all 4 cyl. So if main
>alternator is out, then I think my ops procedure would be:
>
>1) MAIN L-60 ALTERNATOR FIELD CIRCUIT BREAKER - PULL
No necessary. Circuit breakers are for protecting
wires, not switching equipment.
>2) DC POWER MASTER SWITCH - OFF
> - drops off main battery contactor (1amp) and main bus...saving amps
And shuts off the main alternator.
>3) AUX SD-8 ALTERNATOR SWITCH - ON
> - brings online SD-8 yielding 5.4 to 7.0 amps with 2150 prop RPM
>
>4) EBUS ALTERNATE FEED SWITCH - ON
> - provides power to endurance bus
DO THIS FIRST
>5) LIGHTSPEED IGNITION #1 SWITCH - OFF
> - to save 1.3amps from main battery drain
Yup.
>-------------------------------------------------------
>
>LSE has a recommended Dual Power Supply wiring schematic. I've
>attached below, and link is also here.
>http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/Manuals/PS_Diagram.htm
>
>Should I just simplify my dual batt brownout schematic and just use
>a single Shottky diode between the two as shown in LSE's schematic?
No. One ignition from the main battery bus,
the other from the endurance bus. Each to have
it's own breaker and one system to enjoy dual
power sources no matter what. You don't need the
second battery/diode combo. If you're not putting
in Z-13/8, THEN you use the dual batteries/diode
configuration.
> > Bob Answer: Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an
> operating procedure that accommodates the special needs for some accessories.
>
>
>I prefer to find out issues with my EFIS/EIS system before engine
>start. In addition, Grand Rapids Tech. in their installation manual
>pg. 6-1, recommends in section 6.2 Power Connections:
>
>"It is desirable to not have the display units and AHRS connected to
>the power supply supplying power to the engine starter during the
>engine start (to maximize current available for the starter,
This is B.S. Minor system loads are never an issue for
getting the engine started in an airplane with
a well maintained battery . . . i.e. one that's
traded out at intervals or when test limits are
not met.
> and possibly extend the life of the CCFL backlight in the display
> unit), this feature allows the fitting of a small (3-5AH) auxiliary
> battery to one of the power input connections provide power to the
> EFIS during engine start."
Hmmm . . . "possibly" . . . suggests these folks
may not understand their product. Either they have
explored the suitability of their device to join
the ranks of other products designed for the aircraft
environment . . . or they have not. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Philosophy/Whats_all_this_DO160_Stuff_Anyhow.pdf
If they have not, it would be better that they at least
tell the customer in what ways they chose to reduce
development costs. I'm not suggesting that low-cost
offerings are necessarily a poor value . . . but they
should KNOW exactly what things are at risk and why.
Is their installation/operation data published on the
'net anywere?
>I could size the AUX/Brownout battery 17AH (15.3 lbs) down to a 5AH
>(5.9 lbs), but I do like the idea of two batteries the same size and
>swapping out one each year for a new one. An Aux. PC680 also gives
>me approx. 2.6hrs at an endurance bus load of 4.6 amps.
Does this include support energy from the SD-8? Once
you add the SD-8, battery sizing for endurance shouldn't
be an issue.
>Lastly, I wanted to add...You and the AEC forum are just an
>INCREDIBLE resource! THANK-YOU for writing the AEC book and
>providing a place for us electrical challenged guys to bang heads
>and build better airplanes!
Folks on the List are as much a resource for me as I am
for them. I could write another book on the number
of products that never came into being purely
for reasons of regulatory, management or marketing
boondoggles.
That sort of thing wasn't happening in the heydays
of Walter, Duane and Willy. That's how I got to
put a speed regulated trim system on the 55 Lears . . .
which was so popular that it got retrofitted
to the fleet of 30 series airplanes and made my
boss a few $millions$.
I've chased much slicker products through
the rat-maze since but none have been so
satisfying . . . so I guess I could say
my career 'peaked' when I was 37. Not that
it hasn't been educational and fun. YOU
folks are my reason for thinking hard these
days . . . you're saving me from Alzheimer's.
So THANK YOU too!
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire |
>
>My system is Z12 so the standby alternator attaches at the start
>contactor and then uses the same main bus feed wire. I have the
>alternate feed switching for the hot battery bus to the E-bus as a
>way to isolate the E-bus if I get to a battery only situation.
>Since the standby regulator needs to monitor bus voltage I have it
>set up to monitor the main bus.
Right.
> As you can see the low voltage alarm off the EFIS will be
> different from what the standby regulator reads due to the drop in
> the diode. I think I can work around the issue in that the EFIS #2
> attached to the main bus has it's own alarms and I can set that to
> my specifications.
If the alarm for the e-bus instruments can be calibrated,
then set them for 10.5 volts. That's the voltage your
battery is 95% used up.
Gizmos with LV warning attached to the main bus
get set for 13.5.
Bob . . .
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