Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:20 AM - Re: apparent alternator issue (racerjerry)
2. 06:21 AM - Re: apparent alternator issue (racerjerry)
3. 07:10 AM - Re: apparent alternator issue (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 03:31 PM - Re: apparent alternator issue (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: apparent alternator issue |
A loose / dirty / corroded wire between alternator and regulator can easily fool
the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged. Dont forget
the ground straps and make sure that the alternator is solidly grounded. Easiest
first step is to pull and clean all battery connections. When done, a little
petrolatum on the heavy terminals will keep things shiny for a long while.
Look carefully for a loose or broken connection at the small wire terminals
on the alternator. Because of vibration, alternator connections often open up.
Wires rarely fail in the middle unless rubbing or another form of abuse takes place.
Any wire problem generally appears at the termination. You could check
for excess resistance using a digital voltmeter. Intermittent problems can be
tough to locate, but wiggle any suspect connection and watch for a change in
resistance.
It is possible that a diode within the alternator went bad, which would cut the
alternator output by one third, but I doubt it because diode failure is rarely
intermittent. If your wiring checks do not reveal anything, you might consider
removing the alternator and taking it down to the good folks at AutoZone.
With their test machine, they can do a quick free diagnosis. They didnt even
ask me what car it was from. Good luck.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335246#335246
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: apparent alternator issue |
A loose / dirty / corroded wire between alternator and regulator can easily fool
the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged. Dont forget
the ground straps and make sure that the alternator is solidly grounded. Easiest
first step is to pull and clean all battery connections. When done, a little
petrolatum on the heavy terminals will keep things shiny for a long while.
Look carefully for a loose or broken connection at the small wire terminals
on the alternator. Because of vibration, alternator connections often open up.
Wires rarely fail in the middle unless rubbing or another form of abuse takes place.
Any wire problem generally appears at the termination. You could check
for excess resistance using a digital voltmeter. Intermittent problems can be
tough to locate, but wiggle any suspect connection and watch for a change in
resistance.
It is possible that a diode within the alternator went bad, which would cut the
alternator output by one third, but I doubt it because diode failure is rarely
intermittent. If your wiring checks do not reveal anything, you might consider
removing the alternator and taking it down to the good folks at AutoZone.
With their test machine, they can do a quick free diagnosis. They didnt even
ask me what car it was from. Good luck.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335247#335247
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: apparent alternator issue |
At 08:57 PM 3/27/2011, you wrote:
>
>I have a vp100 and single alternator, single battery, 2 EFIS chelton
>system similar to Z11 type wiring diagram
I have the 60 amp alternator recommended by VAN's, but rarely use
more than 30-35 continuous. Even so, I frequently get battery drain
warning below 12.5 volts, and I have to conserve. But it is very
inconsistent and for some unknown reason it will bounce back up above
13.5 and charge along just fine.
Your normal bus voltage should be on the order of
14.2 to 14.6 volts.
I don't think it is the battery, because I'm not finding any
problems on the starting side. But the problem does seem to be getting worse.
Voltage issues while in flight are never
a battery issue. If your alternator has
a built in regulator, then it's a very
high probability of being bad. The fact
that your 'normal' bus voltage is so low
suggests that it may have had some kind
of problem right out of the box.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: apparent alternator issue |
At 08:57 PM 3/27/2011, you wrote:
>
>I have a vp100 and single alternator, single battery, 2 EFIS chelton
>system similar to Z11 type wiring diagram.
>
>I'm having trouble with my alternator charging. Although I have a
>50 amp load analysis (if I have everything turned on and max) I have
>the 60 amp alternator recommended by VAN's, but rarely use more than
>30-35 continuous.
When you say "alternator recommended by Van's" is this the
60A PlanePower product? When working with alternators
having built-in regulators, there's not much you can do
to troubleshoot a voltage variation except to monitor
the b-lead terminal with a test voltmeter to see if
readings at the b-lead agree with readings on the panel
displays. If you have two panel displays and they
agree to within .5 volts of the b-lead terminal,
then your alternator is probably in need of attention.
If the b-lead says where it belongs, 14.2 or a little
better, then there's a wiring problem. A wiring problem
that drops 2 volts at 30+ amps is going to dissipate
some heat. If something 'loose' is your root cause, then
it's likely to have a somewhat cooked appearance.
Bob . . .
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