Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:15 AM - Brock Carburetor Heat Valve (Harley)
2. 10:34 AM - avionics ground question (B Tomm)
3. 10:46 AM - heavy wire question (B Tomm)
4. 11:32 AM - Re: avionics ground question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:37 AM - Re: heavy wire question (Charlie England)
6. 11:45 AM - Re: heavy wire question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Brock Carburetor Heat Valve |
All...
Since I now have a ram air box with a built in carburetor heat
valve, I won't be installing the Ken Brock carb heat valve that I
had previously purchased for my Long EZ.
So, I have it on eBay right now for the next ten days. Never used
or installed, like new, no reserve, with the 3 page installation
plans. The same unit (Brock/Rutan part number VECHVA) is
currently being sold on Aircraft Spruce for $115 (Aircraft Spruce
number 01-00845).
Since it mounts on the firewall, with air hoses to the
carburetor, it is not specific to any engine or plane and is
currently being used with many four cylinder engines, both
tractor and pusher, on hundreds of Long-EZs, Variezes, Cozy's and
so forth.
Also included are plans to construct a cabin heat valve.
You can see it here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350454427697
In case the above link wraps, here's it's tinyurl:
http://tinyurl.com/3qwpp2h
Harley
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | avionics ground question |
Basically I'm using a single point pass-through ground on the firewall.
However, I also have a forest of tabs for an avionics ground (for
convenience) located nearby which will be connected to the main ground with
either 5 awg20 ala Bob's drawings or a single 12awg wire. The aircraft is
an RV7 so the avionics ground will be bolted to a metal structure. This
mounting method will naturally provide a secondary ground path back to the
single point ground.
My question is should this avionics ground be insulated from the metal
structure that it's bolted to, to eliminate a possible ground loop or at
least to ensure that the electrons find their way back to the single point
ground via the intended wire rather than some willy nilly path through the
structure? or does it matter?
Bevan
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | heavy wire question |
Think Z-13 here but other architectures probably apply.
The battery is connected to the contactor in this case with a 2awg wire.
The battery is also connected directly to the battery buss with a much
smaller wire, say 14awg.
What is the best practical way to connect two wires to the same terminal of
the contactor? Two crimp connectors (ring terminal) do not seem to fit well
together on the terminal ( I want the terminals covered with those silicone
boots too). I would like to crimp the two wires inside the same crimp
terminal but they won't both fit. Should I cut some of the strands off the
larger wire to make room for the smaller wire? The next size crimp
connector looks a little bit too large to accommodate both wires but I could
"over-crimp" until they are very snug but the connector looks a little
mashed. Which is the best way to connect two dissimilar sized wires to the
same terminal?
I have a similar application on the "out" side of the contactor where a 6awg
wire is to connect with a 2awg wire on the same terminal. Looking for a
reliable, simple and elegant solution.
Thanks.
Bevan
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: avionics ground question |
At 01:30 PM 4/10/2011, you wrote:
>Basically I'm using a single point pass-through ground on the
>firewall. However, I also have a forest of tabs for an avionics
>ground (for convenience) located nearby which will be connected to
>the main ground with either 5 awg20 ala Bob's drawings or a single
>12awg wire. The aircraft is an RV7 so the avionics ground will be
>bolted to a metal structure. This mounting method will naturally
>provide a secondary ground path back to the single point ground.
>
>My question is should this avionics ground be insulated from the
>metal structure that it's bolted to, to eliminate a possible ground
>loop or at least to ensure that the electrons find their way back to
>the single point ground via the intended wire rather than some willy
>nilly path through the structure? or does it matter?
This isn't so much a matter of 'wiring' as it is
a matter of locations. A panel ground bus is located
on the panel with the closest practical proximity to
the potential victims of ground induced noises.
Have all potential victims share a single ground
point with other non-antagonists on the panel
is a prophylactic against ground loops. When
all roads lead straight to Rome, there are no
shortcuts for unwelcome noise coupling events
to form up. It doesn't matter how THAT ground
point gets grounded, its a matter of WHO USES
that ground point.
The 37-pin panel ground bus we offer is insulated
from local ground . . . but it's not necessary
that it BE isolated.
Bob . . .
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: heavy wire question |
On 4/10/2011 12:43 PM, B Tomm wrote:
> Think Z-13 here but other architectures probably apply.
> The battery is connected to the contactor in this case with a 2awg
> wire. The battery is also connected directly to the battery buss with
> a much smaller wire, say 14awg.
> What is the best practical way to connect two wires to the same
> terminal of the contactor? Two crimp connectors (ring terminal) do
> not seem to fit well together on the terminal ( I want the terminals
> covered with those silicone boots too). I would like to crimp the two
> wires inside the same crimp terminal but they won't both fit. Should
> I cut some of the strands off the larger wire to make room for the
> smaller wire? The next size crimp connector looks a little bit too
> large to accommodate both wires but I could "over-crimp" until they
> are very snug but the connector looks a little mashed. Which is the
> best way to connect two dissimilar sized wires to the same terminal?
> I have a similar application on the "out" side of the contactor where
> a 6awg wire is to connect with a 2awg wire on the same terminal.
> Looking for a reliable, simple and elegant solution.
> Thanks.
> Bevan
If you crimp both in the next larger connector, you can fill the
next-larger connector with scrap wire(s) before crimping, then clip off
the excess scrap. Avoids reducing the current capacity of the larger
wire, & enables a 'normal' crimp.
Charlie
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: heavy wire question |
At 01:43 PM 4/10/2011, you wrote:
>Think Z-13 here but other architectures probably apply.
>
>The battery is connected to the contactor in this case with a 2awg
>wire. The battery is also connected directly to the battery buss
>with a much smaller wire, say 14awg.
>
>What is the best practical way to connect two wires to the same
>terminal of the contactor? Two crimp connectors (ring terminal) do
>not seem to fit well together on the terminal ( I want the terminals
>covered with those silicone boots too). I would like to crimp the
>two wires inside the same crimp terminal but they won't both
>fit. Should I cut some of the strands off the larger wire to make
>room for the smaller wire? The next size crimp connector looks a
>little bit too large to accommodate both wires but I could
>"over-crimp" until they are very snug but the connector looks a
>little mashed. Which is the best way to connect two dissimilar sized
>wires to the same terminal?
>
>I have a similar application on the "out" side of the contactor
>where a 6awg wire is to connect with a 2awg wire on the same
>terminal. Looking for a reliable, simple and elegant solution.
Using contactors with longer studs is the
general fix. When I was selling the S701-1
Emacs!
I shipped it with thin, brass top-nuts but even with the
standard nut, the RBM/Stancor part had a longer stud
than the Cole-Hersey parts . . . and would generally
take up to 3 terminals.
Contactor posts are indeed preferred fan out
points for distribution of power but dealing with
the short studs on some contactors is problematic.
If push comes to shove, you can replace the bottom
nut with a thin "jam nut" and get some more exposed
stud. This is less risky with modern versions of
these parts.
Emacs!
The internal contact surface is held in better alignment
by bosses on the molded insulator. I may have a quantity of these
nuts left over from those times. I'll dig around in the
moving boxes as yet unpacked.
Bob . . .
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|