Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 PM - Bad fast-on connection? (Kevin Horton)
2. 06:01 PM - Re: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn (Joe)
3. 06:01 PM - Re: Bad fast-on connection? (Matt Prather)
4. 06:19 PM - Re: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:31 PM - Re: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn (Robert Borger)
6. 07:46 PM - Re: Bad fast-on connection? (halbenjamin@optonline.net)
7. 07:59 PM - Re: Bad fast-on connection? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:01 PM - Re: Bad fast-on connection? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:17 PM - B&C fast-ons (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bad fast-on connection? |
I fought a GNS430W TX issue a while ago that was eventually apparently resolved
by reseating the fast-on connector where the power line connects to the fuse
block. The radio had worked fine for 2.5 years, then suddenly was transmitting
carrier only. I ran out of ideas, so I eventually pulled the power connector
off the fuse block, squeezed the fast-on a bit with pliers, and wiggled it
back on, and the radio worked fine for five weeks. Today it was not transmitting
again. I removed, squeezed and reinstalled the same fast-on connector again,
and the problem appears to be solved, again.
I'm baffled by why this fast-on seems to be giving me grief. Both the fast-on
connectors and the fuse block were purchased from B&C Specialties, so I believe
they are good quality.
I'm not sure what I should do to hopefully permanently fix the issue. I'd appreciate
any comments on the following possible courses of action, plus I'd love
any other suggestions:
1. cut off the problem fast-on, splice the wire with a butt splice and install
a new fast-on (the wire is not long enough to do this unless I splice it).
2. use dielectric grease on the connection, such as the Dynatex product sold by
Stein Avionics:
http://www.steinair.com/chemicals.htm
http://www.accumetricinc.com/dynatex/PDF/49634.pdf
3. replace the Buss fuse block (purchased from B&C Specialites) with a new one.
4. bypass the fuse block with a ring terminal connected to the fuse block's input,
and an inline fuse. This gets rid of the fast-on connector in this circuit,
but replaces it with a ring terminal.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn |
Who is Thomas Belvin and why does he want me in his network? Enquiring mi
nds want to know.
JP
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Belvin <tbelvin38@aol.com>
Sent: Sat, May 7, 2011 12:11 pm
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn
LinkedIn
I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.
- Thomas
Thomas Belvin
Independent Machinery Professional
Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina Area
Confirm that you know Thomas
=C2=A9 2011, LinkedIn Corporation
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bad fast-on connection? |
Hi Kevin,
I'm sure you'll get other smart replies, but here are my thoughts..
- Have you done something to verify that it's a deficiency in the fast-on-spade
interconnect? Short of an alloy problem, an overheat, or ongoing mechanical
stress, I have a tough time believing that's the problem.
- Could it be that when you pull the fast-on off the spade, you're resetting some
other connection in the functional chain? A bad crimp? Some other loose connection?
- Is there another hot connection available on the fuse block?
- Is that an always-hot connection (battery bus)?
- I assume the fuse block is in the cabin where it stays dry and at a reasonable
temperature...
- If you cut the connector off, save it for Bob.. He'll probably want to look
at it. ;)
Matt-
On May 9, 2011, at 5:19 PM, Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
>
> I fought a GNS430W TX issue a while ago that was eventually apparently resolved
by reseating the fast-on connector where the power line connects to the fuse
block. The radio had worked fine for 2.5 years, then suddenly was transmitting
carrier only. I ran out of ideas, so I eventually pulled the power connector
off the fuse block, squeezed the fast-on a bit with pliers, and wiggled it
back on, and the radio worked fine for five weeks. Today it was not transmitting
again. I removed, squeezed and reinstalled the same fast-on connector again,
and the problem appears to be solved, again.
>
> I'm baffled by why this fast-on seems to be giving me grief. Both the fast-on
connectors and the fuse block were purchased from B&C Specialties, so I believe
they are good quality.
>
> I'm not sure what I should do to hopefully permanently fix the issue. I'd appreciate
any comments on the following possible courses of action, plus I'd love
any other suggestions:
>
> 1. cut off the problem fast-on, splice the wire with a butt splice and install
a new fast-on (the wire is not long enough to do this unless I splice it).
>
> 2. use dielectric grease on the connection, such as the Dynatex product sold
by Stein Avionics:
>
> http://www.steinair.com/chemicals.htm
> http://www.accumetricinc.com/dynatex/PDF/49634.pdf
>
> 3. replace the Buss fuse block (purchased from B&C Specialites) with a new one.
>
> 4. bypass the fuse block with a ring terminal connected to the fuse block's input,
and an inline fuse. This gets rid of the fast-on connector in this circuit,
but replaces it with a ring terminal.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Kevin Horton
> RV-8
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn |
At 08:32 PM 5/9/2011, you wrote:
>Who is Thomas Belvin and why does he want me in his
>network? Enquiring minds want to know.
Be aware that the spam filter for matronics domains
is temporarily out of service. Expect to see some
strange things in your emails until Matt slays the
dragons.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn |
JP,
Same here. Thomas, if you are out there, tell us who you are and your
interest.
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Tri-Gear, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
Prop
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232
http://www.biplaneforumgallery.com/index.php?cat=10046
Europa Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On May 9, 2011, at 19:32, Joe wrote:
> Who is Thomas Belvin and why does he want me in his network?
Enquiring minds want to know.
>
> JP
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Belvin <tbelvin38@aol.com>
> To: aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com
> Sent: Sat, May 7, 2011 12:11 pm
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn
>
>
>
>
> LinkedIn
> I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.
>
> - Thomas
> Thomas Belvin
> Independent Machinery Professional
> Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina Area
> Confirm that you know Thomas
> =A9 2011, LinkedIn Corporation
>
>
>
> ========================
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>
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?AeroElectric-List
> ========================
===========
> /forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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> ========================
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>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bad fast-on connection? |
Hi Kevin,
My 2 cents is on the crimped connection of the fast on tab. I don't know what
size the wire is, but I'm guessing that it is very light gauge. With the very
light gauge wires (< 20AWG) I have better luck getting a good crimp by stripping
twice the length of wire needed & folding in half prior to installing the
terminal. Hope this helps.
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Long Island, NY
On the last 999 items
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bad fast-on connection?
>
> I fought a GNS430W TX issue a while ago that was eventually
> apparently resolved by reseating the fast-on connector where the
> power line connects to the fuse block. The radio had worked
> fine for 2.5 years, then suddenly was transmitting carrier only.
> I ran out of ideas, so I eventually pulled the power connector
> off the fuse block, squeezed the fast-on a bit with pliers, and
> wiggled it back on, and the radio worked fine for five weeks.
> Today it was not transmitting again. I removed, squeezed and
> reinstalled the same fast-on connector again, and the problem
> appears to be solved, again.
>
> I'm baffled by why this fast-on seems to be giving me grief.
> Both the fast-on connectors and the fuse block were purchased
> from B&C Specialties, so I believe they are good quality.
>
> I'm not sure what I should do to hopefully permanently fix the
> issue. I'd appreciate any comments on the following possible
> courses of action, plus I'd love any other suggestions:
>
> 1. cut off the problem fast-on, splice the wire with a butt
> splice and install a new fast-on (the wire is not long enough to
> do this unless I splice it).
>
> 2. use dielectric grease on the connection, such as the Dynatex
> product sold by Stein Avionics:
>
> http://www.steinair.com/chemicals.htm
> http://www.accumetricinc.com/dynatex/PDF/49634.pdf
>
> 3. replace the Buss fuse block (purchased from B&C Specialites)
> with a new one.
>
> 4. bypass the fuse block with a ring terminal connected to the
> fuse block's input, and an inline fuse. This gets rid of the
> fast-on connector in this circuit, but replaces it with a ring
> terminal.
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Kevin Horton
> RV-8
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bad fast-on connection? |
At 08:09 PM 5/9/2011, you wrote:
>
>Hi Kevin,
>
>I'm sure you'll get other smart replies, but here are my thoughts..
>
>- Have you done something to verify that it's a deficiency in the
>fast-on-spade interconnect? Short of an alloy problem, an overheat,
>or ongoing mechanical stress, I have a tough time believing that's
>the problem.
>- Could it be that when you pull the fast-on off the spade, you're
>resetting some other connection in the functional chain? A bad
>crimp? Some other loose connection?
>- Is there another hot connection available on the fuse block?
>- Is that an always-hot connection (battery bus)?
>- I assume the fuse block is in the cabin where it stays dry and at
>a reasonable temperature...
>- If you cut the connector off, save it for Bob.. He'll probably
>want to look at it. ;)
Good suggestions Matt. I wish I knew where B&C buys
inventory these days. There IS a potential problem
with fast-ons crafted from softer alloys. The fact that
you EVER had to 'tighten' this terminal gives one pause
to wonder. Get a minimum 10-pak of these
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name-903-ND
and use to replace the fast-on already installed.
Also, see if you can exchange the 'problem' wire
with another terminal that powers a lower current
draw/less critical accessory.
If you need to make a wire longer, use a soldered
lap-splice under heatshrink to extend the wire.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bad fast-on connection? |
At 08:09 PM 5/9/2011, you wrote:
>
>Hi Kevin,
>
>I'm sure you'll get other smart replies, but here are my thoughts..
>
>- Have you done something to verify that it's a deficiency in the
>fast-on-spade interconnect? Short of an alloy problem, an overheat,
>or ongoing mechanical stress, I have a tough time believing that's
>the problem.
>- Could it be that when you pull the fast-on off the spade, you're
>resetting some other connection in the functional chain? A bad
>crimp? Some other loose connection?
>- Is there another hot connection available on the fuse block?
>- Is that an always-hot connection (battery bus)?
>- I assume the fuse block is in the cabin where it stays dry and at
>a reasonable temperature...
>- If you cut the connector off, save it for Bob.. He'll probably
>want to look at it. ;)
Good suggestions Matt. I wish I knew where B&C buys
inventory these days. There IS a potential problem
with fast-ons crafted from softer alloys. The fact that
you EVER had to 'tighten' this terminal gives one pause
to wonder. Get a minimum 10-pak of these
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name-903-ND
and use to replace the fast-on already installed.
Also, see if you can exchange the 'problem' wire
with another terminal that powers a lower current
draw/less critical accessory.
If you need to make a wire longer, use a soldered
lap-splice under heatshrink to extend the wire.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html
Bob . . .
Message 9
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I just checked the B&C website catalog and they
state that their crimp on terminal offerings are
genuine AMP PIDG . . .
Bob . . .
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