Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:56 AM - Re: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring (MLWynn@aol.com)
2. 09:30 AM - Re: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring ()
3. 10:54 AM - Re: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring (Christopher SeaStone)
4. 11:21 AM - Re: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring ()
5. 11:35 AM - Lithium batteries redux (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 01:28 PM - Re: Lithium batteries redux (Jeff Luckey)
7. 03:01 PM - Re: Lithium batteries redux (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 03:34 PM - Re: Lithium batteries redux (Jeff Luckey)
9. 10:52 PM - Re: B&C fast-ons (jerb)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring |
Hi folks,
I didn't understand that part of the heater current is running through the
wires. I thought it was just controlling the relay. That being the case,
I will definitely want to match the existing wires. Looks like time for a
splice. The wires on the switch are somewhere around twenty gauge. The
wire is automotive type, so it is a little hard for me to figure out exactly
what size it is. If the max current draw is 5 amps, then twenty gauge
ought to be fine.
Thank you all for your insights. I will get to work.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wiring
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 5/10/2011 8:06:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv8iator@gmail.com writes:
Michael,
The pre-wired switch that is part of the heater package switches between
'hi' and 'low' and off. The relay switches the second heater element only.
When hi is selected it energizes the relay coil to switch current to both
the 'low' and 'hi' elements. The switch contacts only see the relatively
low current of the low setting and the lower current of the relay coil.
You can use a switch style CB to provide a means of disconnecting in the
event of a malfunction, or a fuse and SPST switch.
Chris
On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 4:46 PM, <_MLWynn@aol.com_ (mailto:MLWynn@aol.com)
> wrote:
Hey Chris,
I was going to use the relays and that part of the wiring. My issue is
with the switch wiring. It is too short. I could spice in some length but
thought I might as well solder at the switches and into their connector.
You are probably right about the high setting. It's all I use in my car. I
was just trying to figure the amperage going through the switch wiring.
Should be negligible, since it just runs a relay.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
In a message dated 5/10/2011 3:10:03 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_rv8iator@gmail.com_ (mailto:rv8iator@gmail.com) writes:
Hello Michael,
The last RV-8 I built had the sports imports seat heaters. Each set (seat
and back) require approx 100 watts. about 7 amps at 14v. You can re-wire
but I recommend using their relay although any DPDT relay with contacts
rated for at least 7 amps and a 14 volt continuous duty coil. You can
substitute and SPDT switch rated for 7 amps or more for the high/low. Actually
all you will use is Hi. The heaters work well but a warm flight suit is
still required if you spend any time in cold air (below -10 C).
Chris Stone
Newberg OR
RV-8 No 2
I am wiring up the seat heaters in my RV 8. I bought the option from
Classic Aero when they made the seats. The heaters are carbon fiber and come
from sports imports:
_http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/carbon-fiber-seat-heater-kit.html_
(http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/carbon-fiber-seat-heater-kit.html)
They are set up with a switch that operates a solid state relay of some
sort. The factory supplied switch wiring does not work at all with where I
need to put the switches so I was going to rewire them. I am assuming that
the relays don't draw a lot of current. My question is what size wire to
use. B&C has a nice four wire cable in 22 gauge. For a three foot run,
that should be fine as long as we are talking a couple of amps or less.
Has anyone measured the current draw for the switches in these seat
heaters? Is there a simple way for me to do that? Maybe take a two ohm
resistor, turn on the heater and measure the voltage drop across the resistor?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wiring
San Ramon, CA
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Subject: | Modifying Seat Heater Wiring |
Do Not Archive
Chris,
Ah, you CA folks have it made. I can only wish. I did the heated seat thing last
winter but wished I had used thinner wire (gets hotter faster) and wrapped it
around my feet so I could rid myself of the two useless blocks of ice I call
my legs.
Heated seats are great and yes a great pair of shoes and a good flight suit are
also necessary.
If you fly a lot in the cold, adding an old fashioned forced air heater is "still"
the best option.
We'll it's May now and I'm beginning to get feeling back in my toes.
Enjoy,
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring
Hi folks,
I didn't understand that part of the heater current is running through the wires.
I thought it was just controlling the relay. That being the case, I will
definitely want to match the existing wires. Looks like time for a
splice. The wires on the switch are somewhere around twenty gauge. The
wire is automotive type, so it is a little hard for me to figure out exactly what
size it is. If the max current draw is 5 amps, then twenty gauge ought to
be fine.
Thank you all for your insights. I will get to work.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wiring
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 5/10/2011 8:06:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv8iator@gmail.com
writes:
Michael,
The pre-wired switch that is part of the heater package switches between 'hi' and
'low' and off. The relay switches the second heater element only.
When hi is selected it energizes the relay coil to switch current to both
the 'low' and 'hi' elements. The switch contacts only see the relatively
low current of the low setting and the lower current of the relay coil.
You can use a switch style CB to provide a means of disconnecting in the event
of a malfunction, or a fuse and SPST switch.
Chris
On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 4:46 PM, <_MLWynn@aol.com_ (mailto:MLWynn@aol.com)
> wrote:
Hey Chris,
I was going to use the relays and that part of the wiring. My issue is with the
switch wiring. It is too short. I could spice in some length but thought
I might as well solder at the switches and into their connector.
You are probably right about the high setting. It's all I use in my car. I
was just trying to figure the amperage going through the switch wiring.
Should be negligible, since it just runs a relay.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
In a message dated 5/10/2011 3:10:03 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, _rv8iator@gmail.com_ (mailto:rv8iator@gmail.com) writes:
Hello Michael,
The last RV-8 I built had the sports imports seat heaters. Each set (seat
and back) require approx 100 watts. about 7 amps at 14v. You can re-wire
but I recommend using their relay although any DPDT relay with contacts
rated for at least 7 amps and a 14 volt continuous duty coil. You can
substitute and SPDT switch rated for 7 amps or more for the high/low. Actually
all you will use is Hi. The heaters work well but a warm flight suit is
still required if you spend any time in cold air (below -10 C).
Chris Stone
Newberg OR
RV-8 No 2
I am wiring up the seat heaters in my RV 8. I bought the option from
Classic Aero when they made the seats. The heaters are carbon fiber and come
from sports imports:
_http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/carbon-fiber-seat-heater-kit.html_
(http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/carbon-fiber-seat-heater-kit.html)
They are set up with a switch that operates a solid state relay of some
sort. The factory supplied switch wiring does not work at all with where I
need to put the switches so I was going to rewire them. I am assuming that
the relays don't draw a lot of current. My question is what size wire to
use. B&C has a nice four wire cable in 22 gauge. For a three foot run,
that should be fine as long as we are talking a couple of amps or less.
Has anyone measured the current draw for the switches in these seat
heaters? Is there a simple way for me to do that? Maybe take a two ohm
resistor, turn on the heater and measure the voltage drop across the resistor?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wiring
San Ramon, CA
ist"
target="_blank">_http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List_ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List)
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Subject: | Re: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring |
>
> Glen...
>
Heat in front is great... But haven't seen an acceptable way to get it to
the rear seat. The motorcycle guys have full electric heated suits...
socks and all !!! A bit like suiting up for a ride in the Sled!
Here in Oregon... it's not the cold as much as the ice. Really don't want
to be a test pilot for airframe ice studies...
chris
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Chris,
>
> Ah, you CA folks have it made. I can only wish. I did the heated seat thing
> last winter but wished I had used thinner wire (gets hotter faster) and
> wrapped it around my feet so I could rid myself of the two useless blocks of
> ice I call my legs.
>
> Heated seats are great and yes a great pair of shoes and a good flight suit
> are also necessary.
>
> If you fly a lot in the cold, adding an old fashioned forced air heater is
> "still" the best option.
>
> We'll it's May now and I'm beginning to get feeling back in my toes.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Glenn
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Modifying Seat Heater Wiring |
Chris,
If your heating inlet control (inside the firewall) has an option for floor or
defrost (front) you could Y off the floor outlet and send a 2" scat tube to the
rear seat area - easiest/cheapest.
The other option I've seen is to scavenge the heat off the oil cooler (through
a shroud) and instead of sending it overboard run it through the firewall to the
seating area. Treat this like you would an old car, remove shroud in summer.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Christopher SeaStone
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Modifying Seat Heater Wiring
>
> Glen...
>
Heat in front is great... But haven't seen an acceptable way to get it to
the rear seat. The motorcycle guys have full electric heated suits...
socks and all !!! A bit like suiting up for a ride in the Sled!
Here in Oregon... it's not the cold as much as the ice. Really don't want
to be a test pilot for airframe ice studies...
chris
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Chris,
>
> Ah, you CA folks have it made. I can only wish. I did the heated seat
> thing last winter but wished I had used thinner wire (gets hotter
> faster) and wrapped it around my feet so I could rid myself of the two
> useless blocks of ice I call my legs.
>
> Heated seats are great and yes a great pair of shoes and a good flight
> suit are also necessary.
>
> If you fly a lot in the cold, adding an old fashioned forced air
> heater is "still" the best option.
>
> We'll it's May now and I'm beginning to get feeling back in my toes.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Glenn
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Lithium batteries redux |
At 08:27 PM 5/10/2011, you wrote:
>At 01:13 PM 5/10/2011, you wrote:
>
>>I would like to hear your Bob's or other folks comments about
>>aviation use of the lithium batteries supplied here:
>>
>>http://www.lithiumaviationbattery.com/index.html
>>
>>they seem to offer signficant weight reduction
I took the time to clean up my posting from earlier
this morning on the topic of lithium batteries
for OBAM aircraft.
I've converted it to an article which can be
accessed at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Batteries/To_lithium_or_not_to_lithium.pdf
As usual, constructive critical review is
welcome.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Lithium batteries redux |
Bob,
Thanks for the Li Batt summary.
One issue: I can't remember what SLVA stands for. It would be nice if the
first time you used it, that you parenthetically give us memory-challenged
readers the full text.
Transpositions:
Second page, first complete paragraph on the right, you refer to it as SVLA
(as opposed to SLVA).
Second page, 5 th para
Second page, 6 th para
After Wikipedia did not have a listing for this FLA (four-letter Acronym), I
Googled for a few seconds. Some of the results were rather humorous:
Software Vendors License Agreement (that's what I thought of immediately,
'cause I'm a computer geek)
Sri Lanka Veterinary Association (my favorite)
Salt Lake Valley Atheists (my new favorite - the irony is too funny -
Atheists in Utah/Mormons. No offense intended to Mormons)
Thanks for making us all smarter,
-Jeff
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 11:32
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Lithium batteries redux
At 08:27 PM 5/10/2011, you wrote:
At 01:13 PM 5/10/2011, you wrote:
I would like to hear your Bob's or other folks comments about aviation use
of the lithium batteries supplied here:
http://www.lithiumaviationbattery.com/index.html
they seem to offer signficant weight reduction
I took the time to clean up my posting from earlier
this morning on the topic of lithium batteries
for OBAM aircraft.
I've converted it to an article which can be
accessed at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Batteries/To_lithium_or_not_to_lithium.pdf
As usual, constructive critical review is
welcome.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Lithium batteries redux |
At 04:22 PM 5/11/2011, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>Thanks for the Li Batt summary.
>
>One issue: I can't remember what SLVA stands for. It would be nice
>if the first time you used it, that you parenthetically give us
>memory-challenged readers the full text.
Got my mouse cord tangled around my eye-teeth
and couldn't see what I was typing. That's supposed
to be (V)alve (R)egulated (L)ead-(A)cid or
VRLA. A.K.A. recombinant gas, starved electrolyte,
absorbed glas-mat, etc.
>
>Transpositions:
>Second page, first complete paragraph on the right, you refer to it
>as SVLA (as opposed to SLVA).
>Second page, 5 th para
>Second page, 6 th para
Had it hosed several places. Found the spell checker
in my word processor was contaminated. All is right with
the world . . . and revision B posted a few minutes ago.
Thanks for the heads-up!
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Lithium batteries redux |
My pleasure! It's good to know that I wasn't having a "senior moment"
(this
time;)
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 14:55
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Lithium batteries redux
At 04:22 PM 5/11/2011, you wrote:
Bob,
Thanks for the Li Batt summary.
One issue: I can=12t remember what SLVA stands for. It would be nice if
the
first time you used it, that you parenthetically give us
memory-challenged
readers the full text.
Got my mouse cord tangled around my eye-teeth
and couldn't see what I was typing. That's supposed
to be (V)alve (R)egulated (L)ead-(A)cid or
VRLA. A.K.A. recombinant gas, starved electrolyte,
absorbed glas-mat, etc.
Transpositions:
Second page, first complete paragraph on the right, you refer to it as
SVLA
(as opposed to SLVA).
Second page, 5 th para
Second page, 6 th para
Had it hosed several places. Found the spell checker
in my word processor was contaminated. All is right with
the world . . . and revision B posted a few minutes ago.
Thanks for the heads-up!
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: B&C fast-ons |
Try Altex Electronics - Dallas TX.
You may have to call them but this is where I get most of my crimp on
fasteners. They usually have a good price compared to most other sources.
http://www.altex.com
jerb
>>
>>Talking about Fast-ons, 1/4" female fast-ons seem easy to find, but
>>I can't seem to locate male ones.
>>Neil
>>snip....
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