Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: Beech Starship (glen matejcek)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (BobsV35B@aol.com)
4. 06:44 AM - 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
5. 07:14 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Tim Olson)
6. 07:29 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (Richard Girard)
7. 07:33 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
8. 07:35 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: CVT Alternator Drive (Eric M. Jones)
10. 07:54 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
11. 07:55 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Tim Olson)
12. 08:03 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
13. 08:07 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (RGent1224@aol.com)
14. 08:23 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (The Kuffels)
15. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: CVT Alternator Drive (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 04:53 PM - Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (messydeer)
17. 06:02 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Dave and Nancy Fortenbery)
18. 07:29 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Charlie England)
19. 07:46 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (messydeer)
20. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Jared Yates)
21. 10:10 PM - Icom 210 wiring (chris Sinfield)
22. 10:31 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 10:48 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Beech Starship |
one day I spotted a body sitting in a warehouse just south
of the Sante Fe tracks in Wellington, a little town about 25 miles south of
Wichita. I pulled over and started poking around
So, Rick,
Did you buy the body or did you totally forget your mission
upon viewing the Cord and Tuckers??
Roger
Do not archive
Message 2
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Subject: | RE: Beech Starship |
I'm thinking that Bugatti up at OSH would have been pretty quick as well,
had the war not intervened. However, forward mounted props yield better
ground clearance in nose high attitudes, aren't hit by detritus kicked up
by tires, and provide instant lift at low speed via prop wash across the
wing(s). All are serious advantages to the light plane operator.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Beech Starship |
Good Morning Noel,
As far as an unusual sound from a pusher, how many listers had the pleasure
of hearing a B-36 pass over their heads on a takeoff? What a sound that
was!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 5/16/2011 9:27:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
noelloveys@yahoo.ca writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys"
<noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
I've flown in aircraft like the Lake LA-4 which has a tower mounted pusher
prop and a modified Volmer Jensen VJ-22 Sportsman with a 125 Hp Lycoming
tractor... also tower mounted. Guess which one was louder. That said I
agree the tractor config is more efficient.
The advantage of the props on the star ship is it allow much more torque to
accelerate off short runways compared to straight turbines. It's too bad
they didn't have the finances to work out the bugs.
This is not the first time this has happened. The Tucker automobile was
another car among cars with more innovations than Lipton has teabags but
you
will probably never even see one.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M.
Jones
Sent: May 16, 2011 3:48 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Beech Starship
<emjones@charter.net>
> I don't think anyone will argue the physics of rear driven aircraft.
There
are some practical compromises like balance which you overcome with the
praying nose wheel. That's not to say forward driven airplanes don't suffer
compromises. They certainly do. This is largely about marketing to the
masses and what the public is willing to accept.
...A propeller in undisturbed air, and an engine where cooling is easy is a
recipe for good design. NO record-speed-holder airplane is rear driven. A
propeller blade which has to cut through the aircrafts' wake makes for a
noisy and inefficient prop.
The prop in the rear is style.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340031#340031
Message 4
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Subject: | 4way hat switch interrupts? |
Hello gentlemen,
I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of
interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block operation
of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block operation of switc
h
A.
The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches are
mounted on flight grips.
Any details here are appreciated =8B wiring diagrams and any part numbers
would be great.
Thank you very much for your time,
Andy Hawes
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system.
It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives
more benefits....one of them being real simple
wiring and stick A/B functionality.
http://www.tcwtech.com/
I developed issues with the relays, and ended
up switching to the system, and it's one of the
nicer upgrades I've done.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote:
> Hello gentlemen,
>
> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of
> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block
> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block
> operation of switch A.
>
> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches
> are mounted on flight grips.
>
> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers
> would be great.
>
> Thank you very much for your time,
>
> Andy Hawes
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Beech Starship |
Roger, The shop owner directed me to the owner of the T body. The guy would
talk your ear off all day long, but wouldn't sell. I found lots of Kansas
farmers who did this back then. Leave old car parts out in a field just
close enough to the road to be seen. Like dripping honey to attract ants.
You got there life story and views on everything under the sun, but they
wouldn't part with their bait.
One of the guys in the shop had a fiberglass 23 T body that I swapped for
some Mustang parts. More work to get the leg room I needed but it worked
out.
Rick
On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 6:39 AM, ROGER & JEAN CURTIS <
mrspudandcompany@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> one day I spotted a body sitting in a warehouse just south
> of the Sante Fe tracks in Wellington, a little town about 25 miles south of
> Wichita. I pulled over and started poking around
>
>
> So, Rick,
>
> Did you buy the body or did you totally forget your mission
> upon viewing the Cord and Tuckers??
>
> Roger
>
>
> Do not archive
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
Thanks Tim -- I'll look into it.
Do you use 2 trim switches controlling the same servo? After a very quick
look at their site, I'm still wondering if they handle two separate trim
controllers (4way hat in my case) controlling the same trim servo?
I'll look further later tonight and thanks very much for the tip --
Andy
On 5/17/11 9:11 AM, "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system.
> It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives
> more benefits....one of them being real simple
> wiring and stick A/B functionality.
> http://www.tcwtech.com/
>
> I developed issues with the relays, and ended
> up switching to the system, and it's one of the
> nicer upgrades I've done.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
>
> On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote:
>> Hello gentlemen,
>>
>> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of
>> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block
>> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block
>> operation of switch A.
>>
>> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches
>> are mounted on flight grips.
>>
>> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers
>> would be great.
>>
>> Thank you very much for your time,
>>
>> Andy Hawes
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
At 09:41 AM 5/17/2011, you wrote:
>Hello gentlemen,
>
>I would like to install two 4way trim hat
>switches with some sort of interrupt device
>(relay?) where operation of switch A would block
>operation of switch B. As well, operation of
>switch B would block operation of switch A.
>The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim
>devices and the switches are mounted on flight grips.
>Any details here are appreciated =AD wiring
>diagrams and any part numbers would be great.
The drawing at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Trim/Trim5.pdf
shows 2 trim switches wired in parallel. These
switches could be coolie hats, push-buttons, etc.
When no switch is depressed, both relays are relaxed,
power is removed from the motor. Any one switch being
depressed energizes one relay and power the motor
runs. If a second switch is pressed that conflicts with
the first switch, both relays are energized and power
is removed from the motor until the conflict is
resolved.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | re: CVT Alternator Drive |
Fallbrook Technologies has a neat Continuously Variable Transmission for alternators,
engine accessories, etc. Worth a glance:
http://fallbrooktech.com/03_CVAD_Crank.asp
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340127#340127
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
outstanding. perfect. Thanks very much for this Bob. And thanks for the
quick reply --
Andy
On 5/17/11 9:32 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> The drawing at
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Trim/Trim5.pdf
>
> shows 2 trim switches wired in parallel. These
> switches could be coolie hats, push-buttons, etc.
> When no switch is depressed, both relays are relaxed,
> power is removed from the motor. Any one switch being
> depressed energizes one relay and power the motor
> runs. If a second switch is pressed that conflicts with
> the first switch, both relays are energized and power
> is removed from the motor until the conflict is
> resolved.
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
Yes, I have a hat switch on each stick, and the controller
makes it real easy to wire the switches in...far simpler
than the relays. Then the 2 switches don't fight with
eachother either. So it should give you the
capability you're looking for. On the RV-10 at least,
the speed control is a "must have".
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 5/17/2011 9:31 AM, Andy Hawes wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Andy Hawes<andy717@comcast.net>
>
> Thanks Tim -- I'll look into it.
>
> Do you use 2 trim switches controlling the same servo? After a very quick
> look at their site, I'm still wondering if they handle two separate trim
> controllers (4way hat in my case) controlling the same trim servo?
>
> I'll look further later tonight and thanks very much for the tip --
>
> Andy
>
>
> On 5/17/11 9:11 AM, "Tim Olson"<Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>
>> You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system.
>> It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives
>> more benefits....one of them being real simple
>> wiring and stick A/B functionality.
>> http://www.tcwtech.com/
>>
>> I developed issues with the relays, and ended
>> up switching to the system, and it's one of the
>> nicer upgrades I've done.
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>>
>>
>> On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote:
>>> Hello gentlemen,
>>>
>>> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of
>>> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block
>>> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block
>>> operation of switch A.
>>>
>>> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches
>>> are mounted on flight grips.
>>>
>>> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers
>>> would be great.
>>>
>>> Thank you very much for your time,
>>>
>>> Andy Hawes
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
sounds like a great product and thanks again for the notes Tim.
The flap controller looks very tempting as well for my Radial Rocket build.
If that "talks" to the MVP-50 flap indicators, I'm in business.
On 5/17/11 9:52 AM, "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> Yes, I have a hat switch on each stick, and the controller
> makes it real easy to wire the switches in...far simpler
> than the relays. Then the 2 switches don't fight with
> eachother either. So it should give you the
> capability you're looking for. On the RV-10 at least,
> the speed control is a "must have".
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> On 5/17/2011 9:31 AM, Andy Hawes wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Andy Hawes<andy717@comcast.net>
>>
>> Thanks Tim -- I'll look into it.
>>
>> Do you use 2 trim switches controlling the same servo? After a very quick
>> look at their site, I'm still wondering if they handle two separate trim
>> controllers (4way hat in my case) controlling the same trim servo?
>>
>> I'll look further later tonight and thanks very much for the tip --
>>
>> Andy
>>
>>
>> On 5/17/11 9:11 AM, "Tim Olson"<Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>>
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>> You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system.
>>> It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives
>>> more benefits....one of them being real simple
>>> wiring and stick A/B functionality.
>>> http://www.tcwtech.com/
>>>
>>> I developed issues with the relays, and ended
>>> up switching to the system, and it's one of the
>>> nicer upgrades I've done.
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote:
>>>> Hello gentlemen,
>>>>
>>>> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of
>>>> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block
>>>> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block
>>>> operation of switch A.
>>>>
>>>> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches
>>>> are mounted on flight grips.
>>>>
>>>> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers
>>>> would be great.
>>>>
>>>> Thank you very much for your time,
>>>>
>>>> Andy Hawes
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Beech Starship |
Yeah How about the XC-99 coming over your house at about 300 ft. Talk about
the shakes
Dick
In a message dated 5/17/2011 8:36:56 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
BobsV35B@aol.com writes:
Good Morning Noel,
As far as an unusual sound from a pusher, how many listers had the
pleasure of hearing a B-36 pass over their heads on a takeoff? What a sound that
was!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 5/16/2011 9:27:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
noelloveys@yahoo.ca writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys"
<noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
I've flown in aircraft like the Lake LA-4 which has a tower mounted pusher
prop and a modified Volmer Jensen VJ-22 Sportsman with a 125 Hp Lycoming
tractor... also tower mounted. Guess which one was louder. That said I
agree the tractor config is more efficient.
The advantage of the props on the star ship is it allow much more torque to
accelerate off short runways compared to straight turbines. It's too bad
they didn't have the finances to work out the bugs.
This is not the first time this has happened. The Tucker automobile was
another car among cars with more innovations than Lipton has teabags but
you
will probably never even see one.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M.
Jones
Sent: May 16, 2011 3:48 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Beech Starship
<emjones@charter.net>
> I don't think anyone will argue the physics of rear driven aircraft.
There
are some practical compromises like balance which you overcome with the
praying nose wheel. That's not to say forward driven airplanes don't suffer
compromises. They certainly do. This is largely about marketing to the
masses and what the public is willing to accept.
...A propeller in undisturbed air, and an engine where cooling is easy is a
recipe for good design. NO record-speed-holder airplane is rear driven. A
propeller blade which has to cut through the aircrafts' wake makes for a
noisy and inefficient prop.
The prop in the rear is style.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340031#340031==================
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Message 14
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Subject: | Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? |
Andy,
The information you seek is on the Ray Allen web site
(RayAllenCompany.com). From the home page click on the link "Download
them here" below the "Need Instructions?" at the lower center. Then
scroll down to the "Do it yourself Relay Deck Instructions". This shows
how to wire up two single pole - double throw relays to drive a servo.
If you also look at the G205/207 Grip Wiring Instructions page 7 you see
they just wire the pilot's and co-pilot's switches in parallel. This
means activating one switch doesn't really disable the other. Instead,
activating the second switch in the opposite direction disables the
servo. Ray Allen did have some problems with marginal service from the
relays in the REL-1 deck. They currently sell a REL-2 deck with much
more robust relays.
Safety Trim (tcwtech.com) also wires the pilot's and co-pilot's switches
in parallel. To actually block the other switch would require 4 relays
per axis instead of two. TCW's trim controller has many additional
useful features such as runaway blocking, reverse override and speed
control. If you are not in a hurry, I'm developing a homebuilt trim
controller with the same features for a cost much lower than TCW's $300.
Hope to get it published in Kitplanes like my fuel transfer controller.
When I get the prototype built and tested I can send you a schematic
which should be Real Soon Now.
Tom Kuffel
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: re: CVT Alternator Drive |
At 10:46 AM 5/17/2011, you wrote:
>
>Fallbrook Technologies has a neat Continuously Variable Transmission
>for alternators, engine accessories, etc. Worth a glance:
>http://fallbrooktech.com/03_CVAD_Crank.asp
Used to have devices like this on virtually every
airplane with a 400 Hz AC power system. Vickers used
to make a constant speed drive used on the '52.
We moved away from this added weight, volume and
complexity by designing aircraft AC systems to perform
without having to maintain a constant system frequency.
They're now "wild frequency" system with nominal
operating range of 400-800 Hz. Taking the extra
mechanism out of the loop allowed the space and
weight to be used to generate more engergy in the
same volume that used to be occupied by the
alternator/drive system.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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Subject: | Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
Hi!
I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. Using the
supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't get the contacts to lock into
place. Instead, they'd move around inside the housing. I figure I could cut
these contacts off the ends and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board.
I was able to solder a D-Sub15 onto the end that connects to the encoder (EFIS),
so I plan to make a male-female connection of the d-subs in case I need to service
the unit.
I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the cramped solder
cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and cleaning. I've got a 30W
iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on the board before being concerned with
overheating?
I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz of the flux.
I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board with rubbing alcohol
after I'm done?
Suggestions appreciated.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340198#340198
Message 17
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Subject: | Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
Dan,
Everybody will have an opinion, so here is mine! I think you should be able
to tin the edge connector in about 2-3 seconds. Let the board cool. Then
attached tinned wire in another couple of seconds. The trick is to use LOTS
of flux. I use a Kester Flux Pen (pH neutral and water soluble). It avail.
from Newark.com (PN 00Z1356) for about $5. Great stuff. The flux makes the
joint heat much quicker and creates a smooth shiney joint. A spool of 2mm
desoldering braid is also handy when you have screwed up and created a
"bridge".(Newark.com PN 95F6235) Be sure and "soak" braid with flux before
desoldering. I use denatured alcohol and an old tooth brush to clean board
after using rosin core solder.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
messydeer
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 7:49 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
Hi!
I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. Using
the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't get the contacts to
lock into place. Instead, they'd move around inside the housing. I figure I
could cut these contacts off the ends and solder the 24 awg wires directly
to the board.
I was able to solder a D-Sub15 onto the end that connects to the encoder
(EFIS), so I plan to make a male-female connection of the d-subs in case I
need to service the unit.
I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the cramped
solder cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and cleaning. I've
got a 30W iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on the board before being
concerned with overheating?
I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz of the
flux. I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board with rubbing
alcohol after I'm done?
Suggestions appreciated.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340198#340198
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Subject: | Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
Are the edge connector fingers gold plated? If so, it's doubtful you'll
even need flux. A clean pencil eraser is effective for removing surface
corrosion. I would 2nd Dave's advice; tin both, then place the tinned
wire on the finger & heat the joint until the solder 'flows', add a
small touch of solder & you should get a fillet of solder between the two.
You might try visiting a local electronics repair shop & ask for a scrap
circuit board. You can practice on that, to get a feel for how much heat
to use, & how long to apply it. BTW, while you don't want to use a big
'gun' type iron, using a really small iron can be a bigger risk for
damaging the board, because it might heat the joint too slowly, allowing
the board, insulation, etc to overheat before the joint itself reaches a
high enough temp to make a good joint. If you've never done any
soldering, remember to heat the joint, and let the joint melt the
solder. If you apply the solder directly to the iron, the joint may not
be hot enough to make a proper joint.
If you're really worried about doing it correctly, find your local HAM
radio club & offer a meal or 'beverage' in exchange for someone's
soldering services. If you can't find a HAM club, ask at the airport; a
lot of pilots are also HAM's (though I'm not).
Charlie
electronics tech in a former life
On 5/17/2011 7:58 PM, Dave and Nancy Fortenbery wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave and Nancy Fortenbery"<jdfnnef@bellsouth.net>
>
> Dan,
> Everybody will have an opinion, so here is mine! I think you should be able
> to tin the edge connector in about 2-3 seconds. Let the board cool. Then
> attached tinned wire in another couple of seconds. The trick is to use LOTS
> of flux. I use a Kester Flux Pen (pH neutral and water soluble). It avail.
> from Newark.com (PN 00Z1356) for about $5. Great stuff. The flux makes the
> joint heat much quicker and creates a smooth shiney joint. A spool of 2mm
> desoldering braid is also handy when you have screwed up and created a
> "bridge".(Newark.com PN 95F6235) Be sure and "soak" braid with flux before
> desoldering. I use denatured alcohol and an old tooth brush to clean board
> after using rosin core solder.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> messydeer
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 7:49 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "messydeer"<messydeer@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi!
>
> I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. Using
> the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't get the contacts to
> lock into place. Instead, they'd move around inside the housing. I figure I
> could cut these contacts off the ends and solder the 24 awg wires directly
> to the board.
>
> I was able to solder a D-Sub15 onto the end that connects to the encoder
> (EFIS), so I plan to make a male-female connection of the d-subs in case I
> need to service the unit.
>
> I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the cramped
> solder cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and cleaning. I've
> got a 30W iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on the board before being
> concerned with overheating?
>
> I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz of the
> flux. I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board with rubbing
> alcohol after I'm done?
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> --------
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340198#340198
>
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Subject: | Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
Thanks, guys :-)
The only soldering I've ever done is for the airplane wiring. I crimped as many
as I could and soldered the rest. I feel fairly comfortable soldering after having
done a few dozen wires, though.
Your suggestion about a scrap circuit board reminds me that I've got a dead PC
sitting in my room. Not sure if there are any edge connectors, but it'd stl il
be good practice. Transponder contacts are not gold, btw. And the iron I've got
is 3/16" or 1/4" that tapers to a cone, which sounds like it'd work well.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340222#340222
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Subject: | Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
If your PC is of the right vintage, you might be able to find some
nice test subjects on the removable accessories, like the modem and
sound card. The ISA and PCI connectors both had nice edge contacts,
with the ISA being slightly more widely spaced.
On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 10:42 PM, messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks, guys :-)
>
> The only soldering I've ever done is for the airplane wiring. I crimped as many
as I could and soldered the rest. I feel fairly comfortable soldering after
having done a few dozen wires, though.
>
> Your suggestion about a scrap circuit board reminds me that I've got a dead PC
sitting in my room. Not sure if there are any edge connectors, but it'd stl
il be good practice. Transponder contacts are not gold, btw. And the iron I've
got is 3/16" or 1/4" that tapers to a cone, which sounds like it'd work well.
>
> --------
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340222#340222
>
>
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Hi
Can someone who has gone before tell me how it works or doesn't work.
I am wiring up the mikes and headsets for 2 people as per the I com sheet but the
headsets and Mic inputs are wired in parallel and so the individual functions
and levels of each mike and headset there fore cannot be controlled.
Is this correct? or can you wire them up separately and have individual gain and
volume controls via the inbuilt PA. Page 20 of the manual does not really go
that deep into it..
So how have others gone before when setting up a 2 seater system?
Chris
Zodiac XLB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340236#340236
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Subject: | Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
At 07:49 PM 5/17/2011, you wrote:
>
>Hi!
>
>I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder
>board. Using the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't
>get the contacts to lock into place. Instead, they'd move around
>inside the housing. I figure I could cut these contacts off the ends
>and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board.
Before you solder wires to the board, how many
pins (ecb tabs) are on this connector. I presume
also that they are .156" spacing on centers of
the tabs (that was a common standard way back when).
There might be a better way.
Bob . . .
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Subject: | Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? |
At 07:49 PM 5/17/2011, you wrote:
>
>Hi!
>
>I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder
>board. Using the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't
>get the contacts to lock into place. Instead, they'd move around
>inside the housing. I figure I could cut these contacts off the ends
>and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board.
Before you solder wires to the board, how many
pins (ecb tabs) are on this connector. I presume
also that they are .156" spacing on centers of
the tabs (that was a common standard way back when).
There might be a better way. I'm assuming you've got
12 upper and lower ECB tabs on a 1/16" thick board.
Emacs!
Here's an AutoCAD plot that shows the alignment
(or lack thereof) for .156" ecb tabs and a 37-pin
d-sub connector.
You might be able to use a 37-pint, solder-cup connector
slid over the edge of the board. Note that every
ECB tab has at least ONE d-sub pin in a position
to be soldered to the tabs. There are a few d-sub
pins that fall between the ecb tabs and should
probably be totally removed from the d-sub connector
so as to reduce potential for shorting between ecb
tabs.
You might just luck out and have a relatively easy
transition from the ECB tabs to the very user friendly
d-sub technology.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
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