AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 05/17/11


Total Messages Posted: 23



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:46 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
     2. 04:50 AM - Re: Beech Starship (glen matejcek)
     3. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (BobsV35B@aol.com)
     4. 06:44 AM - 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
     5. 07:14 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Tim Olson)
     6. 07:29 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (Richard Girard)
     7. 07:33 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
     8. 07:35 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 07:49 AM - Re: CVT Alternator Drive (Eric M. Jones)
    10. 07:54 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
    11. 07:55 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Tim Olson)
    12. 08:03 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (Andy Hawes)
    13. 08:07 AM - Re: Re: Beech Starship (RGent1224@aol.com)
    14. 08:23 AM - Re: 4way hat switch interrupts? (The Kuffels)
    15. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: CVT Alternator Drive (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    16. 04:53 PM - Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (messydeer)
    17. 06:02 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Dave and Nancy Fortenbery)
    18. 07:29 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Charlie England)
    19. 07:46 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (messydeer)
    20. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Jared Yates)
    21. 10:10 PM - Icom 210 wiring (chris Sinfield)
    22. 10:31 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    23. 10:48 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:46:18 AM PST US
    From: "ROGER & JEAN CURTIS" <mrspudandcompany@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Beech Starship
    one day I spotted a body sitting in a warehouse just south of the Sante Fe tracks in Wellington, a little town about 25 miles south of Wichita. I pulled over and started poking around So, Rick, Did you buy the body or did you totally forget your mission upon viewing the Cord and Tuckers?? Roger Do not archive


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:50:56 AM PST US
    From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
    Subject: RE: Beech Starship
    I'm thinking that Bugatti up at OSH would have been pretty quick as well, had the war not intervened. However, forward mounted props yield better ground clearance in nose high attitudes, aren't hit by detritus kicked up by tires, and provide instant lift at low speed via prop wash across the wing(s). All are serious advantages to the light plane operator. Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:35:54 AM PST US
    From: BobsV35B@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Beech Starship
    Good Morning Noel, As far as an unusual sound from a pusher, how many listers had the pleasure of hearing a B-36 pass over their heads on a takeoff? What a sound that was! Happy Skies, Old Bob Do Not Archive In a message dated 5/16/2011 9:27:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time, noelloveys@yahoo.ca writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> I've flown in aircraft like the Lake LA-4 which has a tower mounted pusher prop and a modified Volmer Jensen VJ-22 Sportsman with a 125 Hp Lycoming tractor... also tower mounted. Guess which one was louder. That said I agree the tractor config is more efficient. The advantage of the props on the star ship is it allow much more torque to accelerate off short runways compared to straight turbines. It's too bad they didn't have the finances to work out the bugs. This is not the first time this has happened. The Tucker automobile was another car among cars with more innovations than Lipton has teabags but you will probably never even see one. Noel -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M. Jones Sent: May 16, 2011 3:48 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Beech Starship <emjones@charter.net> > I don't think anyone will argue the physics of rear driven aircraft. There are some practical compromises like balance which you overcome with the praying nose wheel. That's not to say forward driven airplanes don't suffer compromises. They certainly do. This is largely about marketing to the masses and what the public is willing to accept. ...A propeller in undisturbed air, and an engine where cooling is easy is a recipe for good design. NO record-speed-holder airplane is rear driven. A propeller blade which has to cut through the aircrafts' wake makes for a noisy and inefficient prop. The prop in the rear is style. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340031#340031


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:44:00 AM PST US
    Subject: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    From: Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net>
    Hello gentlemen, I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block operation of switc h A. The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches are mounted on flight grips. Any details here are appreciated =8B wiring diagrams and any part numbers would be great. Thank you very much for your time, Andy Hawes


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:14:25 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system. It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives more benefits....one of them being real simple wiring and stick A/B functionality. http://www.tcwtech.com/ I developed issues with the relays, and ended up switching to the system, and it's one of the nicer upgrades I've done. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote: > Hello gentlemen, > > I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of > interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block > operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block > operation of switch A. > > The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches > are mounted on flight grips. > > Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers > would be great. > > Thank you very much for your time, > > Andy Hawes >


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:29:32 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Beech Starship
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    Roger, The shop owner directed me to the owner of the T body. The guy would talk your ear off all day long, but wouldn't sell. I found lots of Kansas farmers who did this back then. Leave old car parts out in a field just close enough to the road to be seen. Like dripping honey to attract ants. You got there life story and views on everything under the sun, but they wouldn't part with their bait. One of the guys in the shop had a fiberglass 23 T body that I swapped for some Mustang parts. More work to get the leg room I needed but it worked out. Rick On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 6:39 AM, ROGER & JEAN CURTIS < mrspudandcompany@verizon.net> wrote: > > one day I spotted a body sitting in a warehouse just south > of the Sante Fe tracks in Wellington, a little town about 25 miles south of > Wichita. I pulled over and started poking around > > > So, Rick, > > Did you buy the body or did you totally forget your mission > upon viewing the Cord and Tuckers?? > > Roger > > > Do not archive > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:33:42 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    From: Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net>
    Thanks Tim -- I'll look into it. Do you use 2 trim switches controlling the same servo? After a very quick look at their site, I'm still wondering if they handle two separate trim controllers (4way hat in my case) controlling the same trim servo? I'll look further later tonight and thanks very much for the tip -- Andy On 5/17/11 9:11 AM, "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > > You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system. > It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives > more benefits....one of them being real simple > wiring and stick A/B functionality. > http://www.tcwtech.com/ > > I developed issues with the relays, and ended > up switching to the system, and it's one of the > nicer upgrades I've done. > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD > > > > On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote: >> Hello gentlemen, >> >> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of >> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block >> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block >> operation of switch A. >> >> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches >> are mounted on flight grips. >> >> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers >> would be great. >> >> Thank you very much for your time, >> >> Andy Hawes >> > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:35:34 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    At 09:41 AM 5/17/2011, you wrote: >Hello gentlemen, > >I would like to install two 4way trim hat >switches with some sort of interrupt device >(relay?) where operation of switch A would block >operation of switch B. As well, operation of >switch B would block operation of switch A. >The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim >devices and the switches are mounted on flight grips. >Any details here are appreciated =AD wiring >diagrams and any part numbers would be great. The drawing at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Trim/Trim5.pdf shows 2 trim switches wired in parallel. These switches could be coolie hats, push-buttons, etc. When no switch is depressed, both relays are relaxed, power is removed from the motor. Any one switch being depressed energizes one relay and power the motor runs. If a second switch is pressed that conflicts with the first switch, both relays are energized and power is removed from the motor until the conflict is resolved. Bob . . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:49:35 AM PST US
    Subject: re: CVT Alternator Drive
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Fallbrook Technologies has a neat Continuously Variable Transmission for alternators, engine accessories, etc. Worth a glance: http://fallbrooktech.com/03_CVAD_Crank.asp -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340127#340127


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:54:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    From: Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net>
    outstanding. perfect. Thanks very much for this Bob. And thanks for the quick reply -- Andy On 5/17/11 9:32 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > The drawing at > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Trim/Trim5.pdf > > shows 2 trim switches wired in parallel. These > switches could be coolie hats, push-buttons, etc. > When no switch is depressed, both relays are relaxed, > power is removed from the motor. Any one switch being > depressed energizes one relay and power the motor > runs. If a second switch is pressed that conflicts with > the first switch, both relays are energized and power > is removed from the motor until the conflict is > resolved.


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:55:30 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com>
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    Yes, I have a hat switch on each stick, and the controller makes it real easy to wire the switches in...far simpler than the relays. Then the 2 switches don't fight with eachother either. So it should give you the capability you're looking for. On the RV-10 at least, the speed control is a "must have". Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 5/17/2011 9:31 AM, Andy Hawes wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Andy Hawes<andy717@comcast.net> > > Thanks Tim -- I'll look into it. > > Do you use 2 trim switches controlling the same servo? After a very quick > look at their site, I'm still wondering if they handle two separate trim > controllers (4way hat in my case) controlling the same trim servo? > > I'll look further later tonight and thanks very much for the tip -- > > Andy > > > On 5/17/11 9:11 AM, "Tim Olson"<Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> >> >> You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system. >> It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives >> more benefits....one of them being real simple >> wiring and stick A/B functionality. >> http://www.tcwtech.com/ >> >> I developed issues with the relays, and ended >> up switching to the system, and it's one of the >> nicer upgrades I've done. >> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html >> >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD >> >> >> >> On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote: >>> Hello gentlemen, >>> >>> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of >>> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block >>> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block >>> operation of switch A. >>> >>> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches >>> are mounted on flight grips. >>> >>> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers >>> would be great. >>> >>> Thank you very much for your time, >>> >>> Andy Hawes >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:03:51 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    From: Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net>
    sounds like a great product and thanks again for the notes Tim. The flap controller looks very tempting as well for my Radial Rocket build. If that "talks" to the MVP-50 flap indicators, I'm in business. On 5/17/11 9:52 AM, "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote: > > Yes, I have a hat switch on each stick, and the controller > makes it real easy to wire the switches in...far simpler > than the relays. Then the 2 switches don't fight with > eachother either. So it should give you the > capability you're looking for. On the RV-10 at least, > the speed control is a "must have". > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD > > > On 5/17/2011 9:31 AM, Andy Hawes wrote: >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Andy Hawes<andy717@comcast.net> >> >> Thanks Tim -- I'll look into it. >> >> Do you use 2 trim switches controlling the same servo? After a very quick >> look at their site, I'm still wondering if they handle two separate trim >> controllers (4way hat in my case) controlling the same trim servo? >> >> I'll look further later tonight and thanks very much for the tip -- >> >> Andy >> >> >> On 5/17/11 9:11 AM, "Tim Olson"<Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: >> >>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> >>> >>> You may want to just look at Safety-Trim as a system. >>> It would be a real easy rip-out and replace and gives >>> more benefits....one of them being real simple >>> wiring and stick A/B functionality. >>> http://www.tcwtech.com/ >>> >>> I developed issues with the relays, and ended >>> up switching to the system, and it's one of the >>> nicer upgrades I've done. >>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html >>> >>> >>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD >>> >>> >>> >>> On 5/17/2011 8:41 AM, Andy Hawes wrote: >>>> Hello gentlemen, >>>> >>>> I would like to install two 4way trim hat switches with some sort of >>>> interrupt device (relay?) where operation of switch A would block >>>> operation of switch B. As well, operation of switch B would block >>>> operation of switch A. >>>> >>>> The Ray Allen trim servos are used as the trim devices and the switches >>>> are mounted on flight grips. >>>> >>>> Any details here are appreciated wiring diagrams and any part numbers >>>> would be great. >>>> >>>> Thank you very much for your time, >>>> >>>> Andy Hawes >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 08:07:54 AM PST US
    From: RGent1224@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Beech Starship
    Yeah How about the XC-99 coming over your house at about 300 ft. Talk about the shakes Dick In a message dated 5/17/2011 8:36:56 A.M. Central Daylight Time, BobsV35B@aol.com writes: Good Morning Noel, As far as an unusual sound from a pusher, how many listers had the pleasure of hearing a B-36 pass over their heads on a takeoff? What a sound that was! Happy Skies, Old Bob Do Not Archive In a message dated 5/16/2011 9:27:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time, noelloveys@yahoo.ca writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> I've flown in aircraft like the Lake LA-4 which has a tower mounted pusher prop and a modified Volmer Jensen VJ-22 Sportsman with a 125 Hp Lycoming tractor... also tower mounted. Guess which one was louder. That said I agree the tractor config is more efficient. The advantage of the props on the star ship is it allow much more torque to accelerate off short runways compared to straight turbines. It's too bad they didn't have the finances to work out the bugs. This is not the first time this has happened. The Tucker automobile was another car among cars with more innovations than Lipton has teabags but you will probably never even see one. Noel -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M. Jones Sent: May 16, 2011 3:48 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Beech Starship <emjones@charter.net> > I don't think anyone will argue the physics of rear driven aircraft. There are some practical compromises like balance which you overcome with the praying nose wheel. That's not to say forward driven airplanes don't suffer compromises. They certainly do. This is largely about marketing to the masses and what the public is willing to accept. ...A propeller in undisturbed air, and an engine where cooling is easy is a recipe for good design. NO record-speed-holder airplane is rear driven. A propeller blade which has to cut through the aircrafts' wake makes for a noisy and inefficient prop. The prop in the rear is style. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340031#340031================== ============================== Use utilities Day ================================================ - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ================================================ - List Contribution Web Site sp; ================================================== (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution)


    Message 14


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    Time: 08:23:26 AM PST US
    From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel@cyberport.net>
    Subject: Re: 4way hat switch interrupts?
    Andy, The information you seek is on the Ray Allen web site (RayAllenCompany.com). From the home page click on the link "Download them here" below the "Need Instructions?" at the lower center. Then scroll down to the "Do it yourself Relay Deck Instructions". This shows how to wire up two single pole - double throw relays to drive a servo. If you also look at the G205/207 Grip Wiring Instructions page 7 you see they just wire the pilot's and co-pilot's switches in parallel. This means activating one switch doesn't really disable the other. Instead, activating the second switch in the opposite direction disables the servo. Ray Allen did have some problems with marginal service from the relays in the REL-1 deck. They currently sell a REL-2 deck with much more robust relays. Safety Trim (tcwtech.com) also wires the pilot's and co-pilot's switches in parallel. To actually block the other switch would require 4 relays per axis instead of two. TCW's trim controller has many additional useful features such as runaway blocking, reverse override and speed control. If you are not in a hurry, I'm developing a homebuilt trim controller with the same features for a cost much lower than TCW's $300. Hope to get it published in Kitplanes like my fuel transfer controller. When I get the prototype built and tested I can send you a schematic which should be Real Soon Now. Tom Kuffel


    Message 15


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    Time: 12:22:06 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: re: CVT Alternator Drive
    At 10:46 AM 5/17/2011, you wrote: > >Fallbrook Technologies has a neat Continuously Variable Transmission >for alternators, engine accessories, etc. Worth a glance: >http://fallbrooktech.com/03_CVAD_Crank.asp Used to have devices like this on virtually every airplane with a 400 Hz AC power system. Vickers used to make a constant speed drive used on the '52. We moved away from this added weight, volume and complexity by designing aircraft AC systems to perform without having to maintain a constant system frequency. They're now "wild frequency" system with nominal operating range of 400-800 Hz. Taking the extra mechanism out of the loop allowed the space and weight to be used to generate more engergy in the same volume that used to be occupied by the alternator/drive system. Bob . . .


    Message 16


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    Time: 04:53:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Hi! I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. Using the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't get the contacts to lock into place. Instead, they'd move around inside the housing. I figure I could cut these contacts off the ends and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board. I was able to solder a D-Sub15 onto the end that connects to the encoder (EFIS), so I plan to make a male-female connection of the d-subs in case I need to service the unit. I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the cramped solder cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and cleaning. I've got a 30W iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on the board before being concerned with overheating? I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz of the flux. I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board with rubbing alcohol after I'm done? Suggestions appreciated. -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340198#340198


    Message 17


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    Time: 06:02:25 PM PST US
    From: "Dave and Nancy Fortenbery" <jdfnnef@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    Dan, Everybody will have an opinion, so here is mine! I think you should be able to tin the edge connector in about 2-3 seconds. Let the board cool. Then attached tinned wire in another couple of seconds. The trick is to use LOTS of flux. I use a Kester Flux Pen (pH neutral and water soluble). It avail. from Newark.com (PN 00Z1356) for about $5. Great stuff. The flux makes the joint heat much quicker and creates a smooth shiney joint. A spool of 2mm desoldering braid is also handy when you have screwed up and created a "bridge".(Newark.com PN 95F6235) Be sure and "soak" braid with flux before desoldering. I use denatured alcohol and an old tooth brush to clean board after using rosin core solder. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of messydeer Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 7:49 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? Hi! I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. Using the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't get the contacts to lock into place. Instead, they'd move around inside the housing. I figure I could cut these contacts off the ends and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board. I was able to solder a D-Sub15 onto the end that connects to the encoder (EFIS), so I plan to make a male-female connection of the d-subs in case I need to service the unit. I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the cramped solder cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and cleaning. I've got a 30W iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on the board before being concerned with overheating? I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz of the flux. I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board with rubbing alcohol after I'm done? Suggestions appreciated. -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340198#340198


    Message 18


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    Time: 07:29:54 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    Are the edge connector fingers gold plated? If so, it's doubtful you'll even need flux. A clean pencil eraser is effective for removing surface corrosion. I would 2nd Dave's advice; tin both, then place the tinned wire on the finger & heat the joint until the solder 'flows', add a small touch of solder & you should get a fillet of solder between the two. You might try visiting a local electronics repair shop & ask for a scrap circuit board. You can practice on that, to get a feel for how much heat to use, & how long to apply it. BTW, while you don't want to use a big 'gun' type iron, using a really small iron can be a bigger risk for damaging the board, because it might heat the joint too slowly, allowing the board, insulation, etc to overheat before the joint itself reaches a high enough temp to make a good joint. If you've never done any soldering, remember to heat the joint, and let the joint melt the solder. If you apply the solder directly to the iron, the joint may not be hot enough to make a proper joint. If you're really worried about doing it correctly, find your local HAM radio club & offer a meal or 'beverage' in exchange for someone's soldering services. If you can't find a HAM club, ask at the airport; a lot of pilots are also HAM's (though I'm not). Charlie electronics tech in a former life On 5/17/2011 7:58 PM, Dave and Nancy Fortenbery wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave and Nancy Fortenbery"<jdfnnef@bellsouth.net> > > Dan, > Everybody will have an opinion, so here is mine! I think you should be able > to tin the edge connector in about 2-3 seconds. Let the board cool. Then > attached tinned wire in another couple of seconds. The trick is to use LOTS > of flux. I use a Kester Flux Pen (pH neutral and water soluble). It avail. > from Newark.com (PN 00Z1356) for about $5. Great stuff. The flux makes the > joint heat much quicker and creates a smooth shiney joint. A spool of 2mm > desoldering braid is also handy when you have screwed up and created a > "bridge".(Newark.com PN 95F6235) Be sure and "soak" braid with flux before > desoldering. I use denatured alcohol and an old tooth brush to clean board > after using rosin core solder. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of > messydeer > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 7:49 PM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "messydeer"<messydeer@yahoo.com> > > Hi! > > I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. Using > the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't get the contacts to > lock into place. Instead, they'd move around inside the housing. I figure I > could cut these contacts off the ends and solder the 24 awg wires directly > to the board. > > I was able to solder a D-Sub15 onto the end that connects to the encoder > (EFIS), so I plan to make a male-female connection of the d-subs in case I > need to service the unit. > > I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the cramped > solder cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and cleaning. I've > got a 30W iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on the board before being > concerned with overheating? > > I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz of the > flux. I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board with rubbing > alcohol after I'm done? > > Suggestions appreciated. > > -------- > Dan > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340198#340198 >


    Message 19


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    Time: 07:46:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Thanks, guys :-) The only soldering I've ever done is for the airplane wiring. I crimped as many as I could and soldered the rest. I feel fairly comfortable soldering after having done a few dozen wires, though. Your suggestion about a scrap circuit board reminds me that I've got a dead PC sitting in my room. Not sure if there are any edge connectors, but it'd stl il be good practice. Transponder contacts are not gold, btw. And the iron I've got is 3/16" or 1/4" that tapers to a cone, which sounds like it'd work well. -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340222#340222


    Message 20


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    Time: 08:05:38 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    From: Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com>
    If your PC is of the right vintage, you might be able to find some nice test subjects on the removable accessories, like the modem and sound card. The ISA and PCI connectors both had nice edge contacts, with the ISA being slightly more widely spaced. On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 10:42 PM, messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Thanks, guys :-) > > The only soldering I've ever done is for the airplane wiring. I crimped as many as I could and soldered the rest. I feel fairly comfortable soldering after having done a few dozen wires, though. > > Your suggestion about a scrap circuit board reminds me that I've got a dead PC sitting in my room. Not sure if there are any edge connectors, but it'd stl il be good practice. Transponder contacts are not gold, btw. And the iron I've got is 3/16" or 1/4" that tapers to a cone, which sounds like it'd work well. > > -------- > Dan > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340222#340222 > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 10:10:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Icom 210 wiring
    From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
    Hi Can someone who has gone before tell me how it works or doesn't work. I am wiring up the mikes and headsets for 2 people as per the I com sheet but the headsets and Mic inputs are wired in parallel and so the individual functions and levels of each mike and headset there fore cannot be controlled. Is this correct? or can you wire them up separately and have individual gain and volume controls via the inbuilt PA. Page 20 of the manual does not really go that deep into it.. So how have others gone before when setting up a 2 seater system? Chris Zodiac XLB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340236#340236


    Message 22


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    Time: 10:31:44 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    At 07:49 PM 5/17/2011, you wrote: > >Hi! > >I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder >board. Using the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't >get the contacts to lock into place. Instead, they'd move around >inside the housing. I figure I could cut these contacts off the ends >and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board. Before you solder wires to the board, how many pins (ecb tabs) are on this connector. I presume also that they are .156" spacing on centers of the tabs (that was a common standard way back when). There might be a better way. Bob . . .


    Message 23


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    Time: 10:48:31 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    At 07:49 PM 5/17/2011, you wrote: > >Hi! > >I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder >board. Using the supplied edge card connector housing, I couldn't >get the contacts to lock into place. Instead, they'd move around >inside the housing. I figure I could cut these contacts off the ends >and solder the 24 awg wires directly to the board. Before you solder wires to the board, how many pins (ecb tabs) are on this connector. I presume also that they are .156" spacing on centers of the tabs (that was a common standard way back when). There might be a better way. I'm assuming you've got 12 upper and lower ECB tabs on a 1/16" thick board. Emacs! Here's an AutoCAD plot that shows the alignment (or lack thereof) for .156" ecb tabs and a 37-pin d-sub connector. You might be able to use a 37-pint, solder-cup connector slid over the edge of the board. Note that every ECB tab has at least ONE d-sub pin in a position to be soldered to the tabs. There are a few d-sub pins that fall between the ecb tabs and should probably be totally removed from the d-sub connector so as to reduce potential for shorting between ecb tabs. You might just luck out and have a relatively easy transition from the ECB tabs to the very user friendly d-sub technology. Bob . . . Bob . . .




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