AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 05/18/11


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:08 AM - Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (plevyakh)
     2. 06:41 AM - Blue Mountain EFIS (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
     3. 07:43 AM - Re: DoubleCAD and Alibre Design (Bubblehead)
     4. 07:50 AM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (messydeer)
     5. 10:00 AM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (rjquillin@gmail.com)
     6. 12:10 PM - Re: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 12:11 PM - Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 09:00 PM - Audio panel to camcorder mic input (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
     9. 09:58 PM - Re: Audio panel to camcorder mic input (Daniel Hooper)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:08:07 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes?
    From: "plevyakh" <hplevyak@mac.com>
    Folks, Thanks for the tips on this. I'll go with the overlay / strip behind the panel. Very helpful. What a great forum we have here! Howard -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak@mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340263#340263


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:41:46 AM PST US
    From: "ROGER & JEAN CURTIS" <mrspudandcompany@verizon.net>
    Subject: Blue Mountain EFIS
    'Lectric Listers, I am interested in obtaining a nonworking Blue Mountain EFIS. If you have one that you are interested in getting rid of at a reasonable price, please contact me offline. Thanks, Roger Do not archive


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:43:50 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: DoubleCAD and Alibre Design
    From: "Bubblehead" <jdalmansr@gmail.com>
    TurboCad 15 is now on sale here http://store.purplus.net/tu15de2d.html for $9.95. -------- John Dalman Keller, TX RV-8 N247TD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340288#340288


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:50:43 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    > The ISA and PCI connectors both had nice edge contacts Yes, I think mine prolly does have some of those. I tried freeing up the case from the board to give me a little more room, but stopped after about 20 screws when I felt that something might come loose that I couldn't easily reattach. There's ~1/4" gap below the card edge and metal back of the case. My soldering iron can reach it at a 45 degree angle, so I think that'll work. > Before you solder wires to the board, how many > pins (ecb tabs) are on this connector. I presume > also that they are .156" spacing on centers of > the tabs (that was a common standard way back when). > > There might be a better way. I'm assuming you've got > 12 upper and lower ECB tabs on a 1/16" thick board. > Thanks, Bob, except I've got 15 tabs on the bottom 3 or 4 on the top. At this point, since I've got all the pieces to do the direct soldering and D-Sub 15 connections, I'm leaning in that direction. Soldering the male pins to the board wouldn't be very easy either, since the metal shell would protect the pins from the solder tip. But if there was room to maneuver, it would make for a slick connection, all right. And here's something I've noticed. Many of your replies (like the one partially quoted above) end up getting a new topic instead of in the original thread. So I don't get an instant email notification and only learn about them when I go to the message board directly. The thread ends up getting split in two. All this is pretty trivial. I'm just curious. -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340290#340290 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/transponder_edge_card_in_case_817.jpg


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:00:28 AM PST US
    From: rjquillin@gmail.com
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    At 15:49 5/17/2011, you wrote: > >Hi! > >I think I'd like to solder wires to the back of my transponder board. <snip> >I've never soldered to a board, but imagine it's easier than the >cramped solder cups I've already done. Main questions are heat and >cleaning. I've got a 30W iron. How long can I leave a tinned tip on >the board before being concerned with overheating? > >I also read a little about cleaning the board after soldering, cuz >of the flux. I'm using Kester 44 resin core. Should I wipe the board >with rubbing alcohol after I'm done? > >Suggestions appreciated. There is an excellent guide to soldered electrical connections from NASA I sent to Bob a couple yeas back and he archived. Not sure of the exact name it's stored as, but look for something like NASA STD-8739.3. I find it difficult to imagine a hand soldering question not addressed in that document, unless it pertains to SMD components. Ethanol or Isopropyl are both accepted cleaners for common RMA fluxes. >Are the edge connector fingers gold plated? If so, it's doubtful >you'll even need flux. When soldering to gold, NASA requires multiple 'tinning' operations to remove the gold to prevent embrittlement of the joint. Another commonly overlooked issue is moisture in the board, that, when heated, turns to steam and causes delamination and bubbles; a few hours in a warm to medium oven dries out the board.


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:10:13 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    > > There might be a better way. I'm assuming you've got > > 12 upper and lower ECB tabs on a 1/16" thick board. > > > > >Thanks, Bob, except I've got 15 tabs on the bottom 3 or 4 on the >top. At this point, since I've got all the pieces to do the direct >soldering and D-Sub 15 connections, I'm leaning in that direction. >Soldering the male pins to the board wouldn't be very easy either, >since the metal shell would protect the pins from the solder tip. >But if there was room to maneuver, it would make for a slick >connection, all right. You got it backwards. What I proposed was converting your card-edge male to a d-sub by soldering the wire-cups of the connector to the tabs. Here is an example of a product that uses solder-cup d-subs to bring the connections off an ECB. Emacs! Emacs! Like so. Bob . . .


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:11:22 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Board Soldering: Overheating and Cleaning?
    >There is an excellent guide to soldered electrical connections from >NASA I sent to Bob a couple yeas back and he archived. Not sure of >the exact name it's stored as, but look for something like NASA STD-8739.3. See http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/NASA/ Bob . . .


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:00:33 PM PST US
    From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
    Subject: Audio panel to camcorder mic input
    Looking to connect a Sony camcorder to my PS engineering model 6000 audio panel. An electrical engineering collegue suggested a simple resistor network that consists of a 10kilohm in series with the signal line coming out of the audio panel followed by a 200 ohm resistor connected across the signal line to signal ground which is then connected to the microphone input of the camcorder. I presented this to the support engineer at PS engineering and he had no comment but instead suggested I talk to the folks at edmo.com for a cable to make this connection. After talking to edmo today and looking at their website it became apparent that they have no commercially available interconnect that can perform this function. Edmo does have impedance matching cables to connect between civil aviation audio panels and military headsets but I don't think these will work for my application. Any EEs out there who work in analog audio? Any suggestions on making something that keeps the audio panel outputs from saturating the mic input? The camcorder input is stereo and so is the audio panel so hopefully whatever design comes out of this exercise can be used in a stereo application as well. Specs on the camcorder mic input are as follows: Minijack, 0.388mV low impedance with 2.5-3.0 volts DC, output impedance 6.8 kilohms, 3.5 mm stereo type. Specs on camcorder also show an audio/video (?line?) input as follows: AV Minijack, 1Vp-p, 75ohms, unbalanced 327mV, (at output impedance more than 47kilohms), output impedance with less than 2.2 kilohms/stereo minijack (3.5 mm), input impedance more than 47 kilohms. Specs on the audio panel outputs are as follows: Headphone impedance- 150 to 1000ohms, Headphone output - 45 mW each headset no clipping. Audio distortion less than 1% at 45 mW into 150 ohms, less than 10% THD at 70mW into 150 ohms. Any suggestions? Anyone know of something I can purchase off-the-shelf that will do this with no assembly required? Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Flying-3 years now!


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:58:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Audio panel to camcorder mic input
    From: Daniel Hooper <enginerdy@gmail.com>
    My calculation is: To dissipate 45mW into 150 Ohms: http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=45mW+%2F+sqrt%2845mW%2F150Ohms%29 I get about 2.6V 'rms'. apply an approximate conversion factor to get rms into peak to peak: 2.6V * (2/sqrt(2)) http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=45mW+%2F+sqrt%2845mW%2F150Ohms%29+*+%282%2Fsqrt2%29 And I get 3.7V p-p To get that to 1v p-p, you need to divide it by four... or five to leave some headroom. So, unless somebody calls me on an error, I say 10k in series, 3.3k to ground, almost like your friend says. This would be going into the Line-in jack, and you'd need a separate divider for left and right. Alternatively, you could just bring one channel off the intercom, do the two resistors, and split the outputs to left and right. I'd say stay away from the mic jack if you can. It just adds problems. You'll probably still need to experiment with the volume knob on the intercom to get what you're after. --Daniel On May 18, 2011, at 10:52 PM, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > > > Looking to connect a Sony camcorder to my PS engineering model 6000 audio > panel. An electrical engineering collegue suggested a simple resistor > network that consists of a 10kilohm in series with the signal line coming > out of the audio panel followed by a 200 ohm resistor connected across the > signal line to signal ground which is then connected to the microphone input > of the camcorder. I presented this to the support engineer at PS > engineering and he had no comment but instead suggested I talk to the folks > at edmo.com for a cable to make this connection. After talking to edmo > today and looking at their website it became apparent that they have no > commercially available interconnect that can perform this function. > > Edmo does have impedance matching cables to connect between civil aviation > audio panels and military headsets but I don't think these will work for my > application. Any EEs out there who work in analog audio? Any suggestions on > making something that keeps the audio panel outputs from saturating the mic > input? The camcorder input is stereo and so is the audio panel so hopefully > whatever design comes out of this exercise can be used in a stereo > application as well. > > > Specs on the camcorder mic input are as follows: Minijack, 0.388mV low > impedance with 2.5-3.0 volts DC, output impedance 6.8 kilohms, 3.5 mm stereo > type. > > Specs on camcorder also show an audio/video (?line?) input as follows: AV > Minijack, 1Vp-p, 75ohms, unbalanced 327mV, (at output impedance more than > 47kilohms), output impedance with less than 2.2 kilohms/stereo minijack (3.5 > mm), input impedance more than 47 kilohms. > > > Specs on the audio panel outputs are as follows: Headphone impedance- 150 to > 1000ohms, Headphone output - 45 mW each headset no clipping. Audio > distortion less than 1% at 45 mW into 150 ohms, less than 10% THD at 70mW > into 150 ohms. > > Any suggestions? Anyone know of something I can purchase off-the-shelf that > will do this with no assembly required? Thanks. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > Flying-3 years now! > > > > >




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