Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:22 AM - Mag Timing (Jack Haviland)
2. 03:33 AM - Re: push to test circuit for differing loads (pmnewlon)
3. 03:42 AM - Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (pmnewlon)
4. 06:41 AM - Re: IvoProp current limiter -revisit (n801bh@netzero.com)
5. 06:53 AM - Re: Mag Timing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 10:39 AM - Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (Eric M. Jones)
7. 01:03 PM - Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
8. 01:25 PM - Re: Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (Bruce)
9. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
10. 02:21 PM - Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
11. 02:46 PM - Re: troubleshooting overvoltages (hhobbit)
12. 02:49 PM - multiple wires to a single terminal (pmnewlon)
13. 03:59 PM - OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (David)
14. 04:22 PM - Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (Jeff Luckey)
15. 04:32 PM - Re: multiple wires to a single terminal (Bob Leffler)
16. 04:50 PM - Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 05:06 PM - Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (David Lloyd)
19. 05:14 PM - Re: Re: troubleshooting overvoltages (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 05:22 PM - Re: multiple wires to a single terminal (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 05:39 PM - Re: multiple wires to a single terminal (rayj)
22. 06:55 PM - Re: multiple wires to a single terminal (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 07:50 PM - Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (Noel Loveys)
24. 07:51 PM - Re: Re: troubleshooting overvoltages (Daniel Hooper)
25. 07:54 PM - Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (Noel Loveys)
26. 08:03 PM - Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? (Dennis Golden)
Message 1
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See the low cost magneto timing kit at www.MagnetoTimer.com.
It works well and can be built and tested quickly.
Jack Haviland
RV-6A
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Subject: | Re: push to test circuit for differing loads |
Thank you guys for your excellent input! Phil
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343736#343736
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
> One way is to take a piece of .032 aluminum strip that spans several switches,
drill the hole for the strip, and the keyway hole, and install it BEHIND the
panel with the lock tab facing the switch panel. Invisible and fairly easy.
Guess who got stalled for about a week trying to decide how to do this? This past
weekend I went ahead and drilled the holes thru on my right arm rest panel.
The parts are painted and assembled now so they are staying the way they are.
I am so glad I saw this post before I did the instrument panel itself the
same way! You guys rock :-)
Phil
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343737#343737
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Subject: | IvoProp current limiter -revisit |
I can add some insight into why the device might be inconsistant....
I run the Ivo Prop on my V-8 experimental. I switch back and forth from
the regular Magnum series tapered blades to the Paddle blades depending
on if I am cruising or hitting the back country strips where leading edg
e protection in needed. Both are cut down to 76" dia. The regular magnum
ones twist alot easier then the paddle ones simply because of the mass
of the blades. Maybe one person has the tapered blades and the device wo
rks great and the other guy had the paddle blades and that makes it trip
the circuit ????. I do find the idea you guys are crafting quite novel
and useful. With a BIG disclaimer, I admit I am old school and on my exp
erimental I run a non shunted ammeter gauge. Yeah, I know possible radio
noise but I crafted my install using as many safeguards as I could and
my set up is bone quiet... I like the idea of a quick glance to see if m
y charging system is working or not. Voltmeters are good but it takes a
moment to do the math and the ammeter shows instantly whether I am keepi
ng up with the load or not.. My choice, I know........ The best part of
the ammeter gauge is when I change pitch I can look at the gauge and see
the neddle deflection. Slight movement shows it is twisting the prop.
When I get to the end of the travel, which is pretty easy to guess when
that happens, I see the major needle deflection, which is indicative of
a locked rotor, then I know I am at my stop. If I don't quickly get of
f the switch, in about 2 seconds the Ivo provided CB will trip. Also ke
ep in mind during the blade bending event the greatest load is when the
prop is at each end of its twisting. The load on the motor is not linear
at all throughout the entire range so that needs to be taken into consi
deretion.. IMHO. .02 cents worth.<G>
Ben.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: IvoProp current limiter -revisit
olls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 11:17 PM 6/21/2011, you wrote:
>Thanks for the responses, guys. I really wish I had more time to
>try and figure it out
>right now, but I'll have to wait until next Monday or so, after I get b
ack.
>
>I went out and did a quick cycle or two of the circuit, and the LEDs
>appear to turn on and off
>as Dennis describes. The pitch motor obviously is twisting the prop
>blades, but the whole
>thing still seems to be working exactly as it should, except it only
>has a one second range,
>from switch on to circuit off, maybe at most, two seconds!
>
>I did see that if I keep switching in the same direction, over and
>over, I can get the opposite
>direction to stay "lit" longer, getting it to twist for 3-4
>seconds. I even kept "pressuring it",
>and the 10A circuit breaker popped. I reset it, and everything
>still worked fine...just briefly.
Okay, if your 10A breaker popped, the motor/gearbox
combo is drawing way too much current . . . for reasons
as yet unknown. The limiter may well be doing what
it was designed to do. Try taking it out of the circuit
as described earlier and then measure the current.
Bob . . .
========================
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____________________________________________________________
Official Obama Website
President Obama needs your help. Join his 2012 campaign now.
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Message 5
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At 05:19 AM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
>See the low cost magneto timing kit at
><http://www.MagnetoTimer.com/>www.MagnetoTimer.com.
>It works well and can be built and tested quickly.
The "magic" behind a magneto timing light is the
device's ability to detect points opening and
closing when paralleled with a VERY low resistance
of a magneto's p-lead winding.
The DC resistance measured with points-open
is low and goes lower when points close . . .
difficult to see with the garden variety
ohmmeter. The legacy mag-timer used a
buzzer to generate an AC signal (not unlike
the Shower-of-Sparks buzzer) to excite
the p-lead circuit.
Emacs!
When the mag points are closed, there's a dead
short across the primary of the transformer and
no signal is detected by the neon lamp. When the
points open, the dc resistance rises slightly
but the inductive value rises greatly. The small
AC component that appears between the test leads
is amplified by the transformer to a value sufficient
to light the neon lamp. This is the legacy "buzz box".
Additionally, one could generally hear a change in
the characteristic of the sound from the buzzer
when the points open.
You can still build this device from readily
available parts. For a compendium of magneto
timing devices see:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Magneto_Timing/
There's a dozen ways to "skin this cat." I've
not tried it, but I'll bet the low-ohms adapter
we developed would detect point-opening/closure
on a mag. I'm certain that the new and improved
version (coming out shortly) would do it.
The directory cited above shows Jim Wier's
approach to exciting the open p-lead with a
2 kHz signal and then detecting the rise in
circuit impedance as points open to light
some leds and give an audible indication.
A google search on 'magneto timing' will
yield dozens of articles and tools . . . each
of which is cited as a better way to skin
the cat. In fact, all such tools from the
lowly buzz-box to the most sophisticated
micro-processor based gee-whiz work as
advertised . . .
Sometimes, the best way to drive a nail
is with a hammer.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
BTW,
Keyway slot DOWN.
It's settled.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343788#343788
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
Good Afternoon Eric,
The problem is that not only are the manufacturers inconsistent within the
industry, but they are inconsistent within their own product lines. I
ordered CBs for a project last year. All were ordered from the same
manufacturer. Obviously, I wanted all of them installed so that I could read the
amperage numbers easily.
Most of them had the keyway in the same orientation but many did not. My
answer was to drill top and bottom keying holes for all circuit breakers so
that they could all have the numbers right side up even though the keyways
were in different orientations.
So much for standardization even for Klixon!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 6/22/2011 12:40:13 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
emjones@charter.net writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
BTW,
Keyway slot DOWN.
It's settled.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343788#343788
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
I would think that the CB's being jammed cheek to jowl, (at least they
are on my panel), would make rotation impossible and the washers
unnecessary.
Bruce
WWW.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobsV35B@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes?
Good Afternoon Eric,
The problem is that not only are the manufacturers inconsistent within
the industry, but they are inconsistent within their own product lines.
I ordered CBs for a project last year. All were ordered from the same
manufacturer. Obviously, I wanted all of them installed so that I could
read the amperage numbers easily.
Most of them had the keyway in the same orientation but many did not. My
answer was to drill top and bottom keying holes for all circuit breakers
so that they could all have the numbers right side up even though the
keyways were in different orientations.
So much for standardization even for Klixon!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 6/22/2011 12:40:13 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
emjones@charter.net writes:
<emjones@charter.net>
BTW,
Keyway slot DOWN.
It's settled.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343788#343788==============
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Message 9
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
BTW,
Keyway slot DOWN.
It's settled.
--------
Eric M. Jones
Perhaps for you, but apparently not for the rest of the
world!!=98=BA
Roger
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
Good Afternoon Bruce,
I have no doubt that you are correct and chances are my fears are
unfounded, but by using the anti rotation washers, all torque loads are ca
rried by
the threaded barrel. If you rely on close proximity of the devices to stop
rotation, any torque that is present will be applied to the case. Seems
a
bit more sanitary to confine that torque to one metal shaft!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 6/22/2011 3:27:51 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
BGray@glasair.org writes:
I would think that the CB=99s being jammed cheek to jowl, (at least
they are
on my panel), would make rotation impossible and the washers unnecessary.
Bruce
WWW.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobsV35
B@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes?
Good Afternoon Eric,
The problem is that not only are the manufacturers inconsistent within th
e
industry, but they are inconsistent within their own product lines. I
ordered CBs for a project last year. All were ordered from the same
manufacturer. Obviously, I wanted all of them installed so that I could
read the
amperage numbers easily.
Most of them had the keyway in the same orientation but many did not. My
answer was to drill top and bottom keying holes for all circuit breakers
so
that they could all have the numbers right side up even though the keyway
s
were in different orientations.
So much for standardization even for Klixon!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 6/22/2011 12:40:13 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
emjones@charter.net writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
BTW,
Keyway slot DOWN.
It's settled.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343788#343788=====
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Subject: | Re: troubleshooting overvoltages |
Has anyone here got a usb oscilloscope? the type that turns a laptop or notebook
pc into a storage scope? If you have one, it would be great to find out what
are the important specs for such a device. They are on ebay starting at suspiciously
cheap $50. I figure on recording for example start up voltage transients
in the vicinity of the starter, alternator and regulator. Using such
a device, the intention is to eliminate a lot of theorising . The manufacturer
tells me there is no history of this kind of trouble, and if there is a rogue
regulator or capacitor this could be a definitive way to diagnose. My original
question on this forum was for general information on how to go about solving
such a problem.
BTW I found an interesting general article on ESD: http://www.eib-gmbh.de/englisch/faqs/text_faqs.htm in particular Q13.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343814#343814
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Subject: | multiple wires to a single terminal |
At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot.... :) I have searched the archives,
Bob's AC, and AC43.13 and found nothing that addresses the question "can
I (for example) put two 20AWG wires in a 18AWG crimp-on terminal"? Does this
defy best practices? It would be electrically sound, mechanically sound, and
I think gas-tight. Is it better to lap solder a Y connection with shrink tube
and then have a single wire going in the crimped terminal?
Along the same lines, how about a solder connection on a switch terminal that needs
two wires attached to it? I think the answer to that one is the lap soldered
Y.
The answer is probably in one of the cited places but I can't seem to come up with
the right search words.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343815#343815
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Subject: | OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of amps? |
I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10 amp
fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to keep the
fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
Thanks,
David
Message 14
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Subject: | OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of |
amps?
Not sure what the cap will do for you, but I'm sure it won't help reduce
current in the circuit.
Are you thinking of a resistor? You could put a current-limiting resistor
in series with the horn, but then the horn might be a lot quieter. It would
require a little experimentation & knowing how many amps the horn draws.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 15:51
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of
amps?
I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10 amp
fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to keep the
fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
Thanks,
David
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Subject: | multiple wires to a single terminal |
You may want to check out the chart on this url:
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=24255&M=HELP&BML=&PID=2963&N=40&R
QS=C~1%5EM~BYPN%5ETCPN~2-520184-2%5ERQPN~403233752
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pmnewlon
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 5:47 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: multiple wires to a single terminal
At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot.... :) I have searched the
archives, Bob's AC, and AC43.13 and found nothing that addresses the
question "can I (for example) put two 20AWG wires in a 18AWG crimp-on
terminal"? Does this defy best practices? It would be electrically sound,
mechanically sound, and I think gas-tight. Is it better to lap solder a Y
connection with shrink tube and then have a single wire going in the crimped
terminal?
Along the same lines, how about a solder connection on a switch terminal
that needs two wires attached to it? I think the answer to that one is the
lap soldered Y.
The answer is probably in one of the cited places but I can't seem to come
up with the right search words.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343815#343815
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Subject: | Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots |
of amps?
At 05:51 PM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
>
>I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10
>amp fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to
>keep the fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
Horns are, in general, 'robust' devices. It's not
uncommon for automobiles to use relays to
put a firewall between the relatively low current
horn button and the noisy beast(s) under the
hood. Some parts stores offer devices called
"horn relays" . . . in fact, these are simply
high current rated relays that can be used for
any similar control task.
http://tinyurl.com/64xls33
Suggest you go with 20A fuse, 14AWG wire and
add a relay like so
Emacs!
Yeah, 20A is a lot of snort and the horn is probably
really loud . . . but it's an intermittent duty
system that requires less total energy to run than your
tail light.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: How to hide anti-rotation keyway holes? |
At 04:18 PM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
>Good Afternoon Bruce,
>
>I have no doubt that you are correct and chances are my fears are
>unfounded, but by using the anti rotation washers, all torque loads
>are carried by the threaded barrel. If you rely on close proximity
>of the devices to stop rotation, any torque that is present will be
>applied to the case. Seems a bit more sanitary to confine that
>torque to one metal shaft!
Good put my friend. I HAVE twisted the mounting
barrel off of both breakers and switches by not
transferring those torque loads to the panel as
opposed to the device body.
It probably comes down to planning. If the builder
puts the holes in while the panel is being laid
out on the table, keyway washer holes are a small
part of the total task.
ADDING holes after things are bolted to the airplane
is another matter. THEN is when the builder is looking
for a good excuse not to add them!
I've got access to a mill with digital readouts.
In the past I've considered offering drill templates
for various rows of switches and breakers that
would help get ALL the holes nicely lined up and
dead-on for location.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of |
amps?
David,
I think that you meant what size "Resister" do I put in series with the horn
to reduce the current (amps).
It is probably going to be a low value 1 - 3 ohms and it will have to be
large in "watt" rating. 10 or more watts, depending on how long you beep
the horn.
Also, keep in mind that you are trying to make a tuned horn work on less
power, under 10 amps, than the current it was designed. So, by cutting back
the "power" to the horn, it will probably sound "weird"; maybe not even
presentable as a bike horn. Try it on the "bench" first before going to the
trouble of mounting it to the bike, etc. and discovering then, that it will
not do what you wanted it to do.
If you bike's wiring can handle say 20 amp loads with a short duty cycle, I
would upgrade the fuse to i.e. 20 amps and not modify the horn using a
resister. But, it is critical that you know that the factory wiring can
handle this level of current without frying.
Dave
___________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "David" <ainut@knology.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:51 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of
amps?
>
> I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10 amp
> fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to keep the
> fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
>
> Thanks,
> David
>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: troubleshooting overvoltages |
At 04:43 PM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
>
>Has anyone here got a usb oscilloscope? the type that turns a laptop
>or notebook pc into a storage scope? If you have one, it would be
>great to find out what are the important specs for such a
>device. They are on ebay starting at suspiciously cheap $50.
Every one of those products will perform as advertised . . .
and in many cases, ANY 'scope is better than NO 'scope.
Be wary of the ratings. Know that "samples per second"
is related to but separate from "bandwidth." For
example:
http://tinyurl.com/6b6lytn
is advertised as a 200 mHz bandwidth and 250 mega-samples
per second. In general, sample rates should be AT LEAST 3x the
period of interest. So 250 m-s/S implies a useful bandwidth
on the order of 80 mHz . . . which is respectable for a
$350 digital 'scope. But really 'clean' paints of wave-forms
will be limited to 25 mHz.
My Tektronix digital scope is rated at 100 mHz bandwidth
and 1000 m-s/Sec. Or 10x the rate of the signal of
interest. This means that 100 mHz displayed wave-forms will
be very faithful to reality a compared with a device
that is only 3x faster.
Your search for electrical gremlins needs to capture
transients of 100 nanoseconds or longer. Shorter transients
are easily shunted off by the capacitors that are
invariably part of every piece of electronics. Looking
for these little short duration spikes is always disappointing.
But to get a good picture of a 100 nS event, you're looking
for samples at 20nS intervals which is 50 megasamples/S.
So the 'scope described in the link above would suffice.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: multiple wires to a single terminal |
At 04:47 PM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot.... :) I have searched
the archives, Bob's AC, and AC43.13 and found nothing that addresses
the question "can I (for example) put two 20AWG wires in a 18AWG
crimp-on terminal"? Does this defy best practices?
Not at all.
See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html
It would be electrically sound, mechanically sound, and I think
gas-tight. Is it better to lap solder a Y connection with shrink
tube and then have a single wire going in the crimped terminal?
No
Along the same lines, how about a solder connection on a switch
terminal that needs two wires attached to it? I think the answer to
that one is the lap soldered Y.
How big a terminal and what size wires. Generally
speaking, a solder-terminal on a switch is robust
enough to handle wires rated at a level similar to
the switch. For example:
How big a terminal and what size wires?
Generally speaking, a solder-terminal on a switch is robust
enough to handle wires rated at a level similar to
the switch. For example:
Emacs!
This 5A switch handles 22AWG wires nicely. But I
probably wouldn't pile more than 2 such wires
onto one terminal.
Emacs!
Switches like this are wired with ring terminals.
I've seen a couple of terminals stacked onto one
screw with perhaps 4-5 total wires. It's pretty
much a judgement call. If in doubt, don't add more
wires.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: multiple wires to a single terminal |
General question on crimping. Is it better to twist the wires together,
in the case of multiple wires, or to twist the strands of a single wire
or is it better to have them straight and parallel to the sleeve?
Thanks.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 06/22/2011 07:19 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 04:47 PM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
>
> At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot.... :) I have searched the
> archives, Bob's AC, and AC43.13 and found nothing that addresses the
> question "can I (for example) put two 20AWG wires in a 18AWG crimp-on
> terminal"? Does this defy best practices?
>
>
> Not at all.
> See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html
>
>
> It would be electrically sound, mechanically sound, and I think
> gas-tight. Is it better to lap solder a Y connection with shrink tube
> and then have a single wire going in the crimped terminal?
>
> No
>
>
> Along the same lines, how about a solder connection on a switch terminal
> that needs two wires attached to it? I think the answer to that one is
> the lap soldered Y.
>
> How big a terminal and what size wires. Generally
> speaking, a solder-terminal on a switch is robust
> enough to handle wires rated at a level similar to
> the switch. For example:
>
> How big a terminal and what size wires?
>
> Generally speaking, a solder-terminal on a switch is robust
> enough to handle wires rated at a level similar to
> the switch. For example:
>
> Emacs!
>
> This 5A switch handles 22AWG wires nicely. But I
> probably wouldn't pile more than 2 such wires
> onto one terminal.
>
> Emacs!
>
> Switches like this are wired with ring terminals.
> I've seen a couple of terminals stacked onto one
> screw with perhaps 4-5 total wires. It's pretty
> much a judgement call. If in doubt, don't add more
> wires.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: multiple wires to a single terminal |
At 07:36 PM 6/22/2011, you wrote:
>
>General question on crimping. Is it better to twist the wires
>together, in the case of multiple wires, or to twist the strands of
>a single wire or is it better to have them straight and parallel to the sleeve?
Straight and parallel.
Bob . . .
Message 23
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Subject: | OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of |
amps?
David a capacitor will filter DC current and pass AC current so it will not
work. What you want is probably a resistor which limits current flow. The
truth is that if the horn is blowing 10A fuses there is probably a short in
the coils of the horn. Bring it back and get another one.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: June 22, 2011 8:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of
amps?
I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10 amp
fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to keep the
fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
Thanks,
David
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: troubleshooting overvoltages |
I have a Rigol 1052E... it has 50MHz bandwidth and 1GS/s (gigasample per second)
when using one channel and 500MS/s when using both channels. If you're feeling
brave, it can be hacked up to 100MHz bandwidth. Around $400. It has some drawbacks,
but it's pretty great for the price.
http://www.tequipment.net/RigolDS1052E.html
Another option is the DSO Nano v2. It's more of a toy, but a lot cheaper. $99
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10244
With both you should be able to save images of your captures. The first exceeds
Bob's advice, the second doesn't really come close.
On Jun 22, 2011, at 4:43 PM, hhobbit wrote:
>
> Has anyone here got a usb oscilloscope? the type that turns a laptop or notebook
pc into a storage scope? If you have one, it would be great to find out
what are the important specs for such a device. They are on ebay starting at
suspiciously cheap $50. I figure on recording for example start up voltage transients
in the vicinity of the starter, alternator and regulator. Using such
a device, the intention is to eliminate a lot of theorising . The manufacturer
tells me there is no history of this kind of trouble, and if there is a
rogue regulator or capacitor this could be a definitive way to diagnose. My
original question on this forum was for general information on how to go about
solving such a problem.
> BTW I found an interesting general article on ESD: http://www.eib-gmbh.de/englisch/faqs/text_faqs.htm in particular Q13.
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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Subject: | OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of |
amps?
Wattage can be calculated using the equation W=VI=I2R
Therefore if the horn is drawing ten amps@12V that is 120Watts DC That is
just too much current for the average bike horn.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Lloyd
Sent: June 22, 2011 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses
lots of amps?
<skywagon@charter.net>
David,
I think that you meant what size "Resister" do I put in series with the horn
to reduce the current (amps).
It is probably going to be a low value 1 - 3 ohms and it will have to be
large in "watt" rating. 10 or more watts, depending on how long you beep
the horn.
Also, keep in mind that you are trying to make a tuned horn work on less
power, under 10 amps, than the current it was designed. So, by cutting back
the "power" to the horn, it will probably sound "weird"; maybe not even
presentable as a bike horn. Try it on the "bench" first before going to the
trouble of mounting it to the bike, etc. and discovering then, that it will
not do what you wanted it to do.
If you bike's wiring can handle say 20 amp loads with a short duty cycle, I
would upgrade the fuse to i.e. 20 amps and not modify the horn using a
resister. But, it is critical that you know that the factory wiring can
handle this level of current without frying.
Dave
___________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "David" <ainut@knology.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:51 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots of
amps?
>
> I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10 amp
> fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to keep the
> fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
>
> Thanks,
> David
>
>
>
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: OT: will a cap help here, horn that uses lots |
of amps?
On 06/22/2011 05:51 PM, David wrote:
>
> I bought an aftermarket horn for my wife's motorcycle that blows 10 amp
> fuses when you use it. Can I put a capacitor in front of it to keep the
> fuse from blowing? How do I calculate the size of cap to use?
A capacitor will not help. Nether will a resistor. When I installed a
Stebel Nautilus on my Ulysses, I put a relay where the original horn was
connected and added a direct (from the battery) wire with an inline 20A
fuse through the relay to the horn. These horns are designed to get
someones attention and that requires some current. Anything that
deprives the horn of the necessary current will restrict the horn from
performing as it was designed.
do not archive
Dennis
> Thanks,
> David
--
Dennis Golden
Golden Consulting Services, Inc.
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