Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:56 AM - Re: Tiny solder tab (Stuart Hutchison)
2. 07:39 AM - Re: Tiny solder tab (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:59 AM - Alternators (Engstad, Kai)
4. 10:41 AM - Re: Alternators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:01 PM - OT - power supply (rayj)
6. 11:37 PM - Re: OT - power supply (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Thanks Bob and Chris.
Yes, I reckon the wires are about 16 AWG and the current draw is said to be
about 3.15A for the landing light part of the new AveoMaxx 6-in-1. I would
return it for repair under warranty, but Aveo voided that because I removed
three screws holding the front lens in place. I was trying to look for an
obvious fault and also see how the 'beam angle adjustment' works, but there
is none. After exiting the body, the wires are soldered to the control
circuit board, which is embedded in epoxy. I'll put some thought into how
to heat the board as Chris suggested and give it a go. Mouser Electronics
sell the LEDS for about $50 each if I screw it up.
Cheers, Stu
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 1:07 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Tiny solder tab
At 09:32 AM 6/28/2011, you wrote:
G'day Bob,
I have a tiny soldering job to do because the return wire shown in the photo
has separated from the LED solder tab. The LED OEM (Luminus) data sheet
says that the used and spare cathode (just visible at the top of the LED
base) are interconnected, but there would be more strain on the main wire to
reach the spare solder tab. Perhaps a small jumper between the first and
second cathode (and same for the anodes) would be smart too, but I need to
re-attach the wire without damaging the LED. I have some ideas about how to
provide strain relief and protection for the wires Bob, but what do you
think is the best way to prepare and re-solder to this tiny solder tab,
which is only about 1/16 x 1/8" in size? For reference, the screws are M3.
What AWG are these wires? How much current does
the LED draw?
The first idea that comes to mind is replacing the
wires with smaller gage still sufficient to the
current. I'd bet you can go down to 24 or perhaps
26AWG. Remove all the existing 'fat' wires and
bring smaller leads to the outside of the enclosure.
Use some form of adhesive/sealant to secure the wires
as they pass through the housing.
Once in the more robust, outside world, figure out
some form of connector . . . or perhaps splice to
more robust leads and secure the joint mechanically
under a band-clamp.
You need a soldering iron with a small tip and some
63/37 solder. I'd clean off the pads with a piece
of solder-wick, re-tin the pads with small dots of
solder. Tin the ends of wires to be attached. Then
'tack' the wires onto the pads.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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At 07:53 AM 6/29/2011, you wrote:
>Thanks Bob and Chris.
>
>Yes, I reckon the wires are about 16 AWG and the current draw is
>said to be about 3.15A for the landing light part of the new AveoMaxx 6-in-1.
Okay, you can drop the wire to 22AWG and make the job
MUCH easier. To have come from the factory with such
fat wire is mystifying . . .
> I would return it for repair under warranty, but Aveo voided that
> because I removed three screws holding the front lens in place. I
> was trying to look for an obvious fault and also see how the 'beam
> angle adjustment' works, but there is none. After exiting the
> body, the wires are soldered to the control circuit board, which is
> embedded in epoxy. I'll put some thought into how to heat the
> board as Chris suggested and give it a go. Mouser Electronics sell
> the LEDS for about $50 each if I screw it up.
Okay, you've not bounded your risks. $50 + time to
do the experiment is not the upper limit . . .
if you 'screw it up' it may be because you don't
have the tools and techniques which the factory does
have. An out-of-warranty repair might be cheaper
than a new LED assy and the risks for lack of
tools and process go to zero.
I'd sure talk to the factory first . . . and ask
them, "why 16AWG lead wires?" in a 5A or less
circuit.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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As a electrical dunce I've got what is probably a simple question. What is
the advantage of buying a an alternator, alternator controller, overvoltage
protection and wiring it up as opposed to a "self contained" unit. For exa
mple one made by Planepower. On the face of it this would seem simpler?
Kai
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [owner-aeroelectric-list
-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III [nuckolls.bob@a
eroelectric.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 7:35 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Tiny solder tab
At 07:53 AM 6/29/2011, you wrote:
Thanks Bob and Chris.
Yes, I reckon the wires are about 16 AWG and the current draw is said to be
about 3.15A for the landing light part of the new AveoMaxx 6-in-1.
Okay, you can drop the wire to 22AWG and make the job
MUCH easier. To have come from the factory with such
fat wire is mystifying . . .
I would return it for repair under warranty, but Aveo voided that because
I removed three screws holding the front lens in place. I was trying to l
ook for an obvious fault and also see how the 'beam angle adjustment' works
, but there is none. After exiting the body, the wires are soldered to the
control circuit board, which is embedded in epoxy. I'll put some thought
into how to heat the board as Chris suggested and give it a go. Mouser Ele
ctronics sell the LEDS for about $50 each if I screw it up.
Okay, you've not bounded your risks. $50 + time to
do the experiment is not the upper limit . . .
if you 'screw it up' it may be because you don't
have the tools and techniques which the factory does
have. An out-of-warranty repair might be cheaper
than a new LED assy and the risks for lack of
tools and process go to zero.
I'd sure talk to the factory first . . . and ask
them, "why 16AWG lead wires?" in a 5A or less
circuit.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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At 11:53 AM 6/29/2011, you wrote:
>As a electrical dunce I've got what is probably a simple question.
>What is the advantage of buying a an alternator, alternator
>controller, overvoltage protection and wiring it up as opposed to a
>"self contained" unit. For example one made by Planepower. On the
>face of it this would seem simpler?
It is.
The legacy components approach pre-dates all-in-one
by 70 years or so. The B&C LR-series regulators
include active notification of LOW VOLTAGE which
is generally not included in the all-in-one
products and should be part of your planning.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | OT - power supply |
I am looking for any type of manual for a Gould MG 5-60C power supply.
Any recommendations of places to search would be appreciated. I have
exhausted every combination of terms I can think of on Google. Answers
here or to my personal email.
do not archive
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: OT - power supply |
At 12:52 AM 6/30/2011, you wrote:
>
>I am looking for any type of manual for a Gould MG 5-60C power supply.
Here's a company that claims to repair them.
They mgiht sell you a copy of the manual.\
http://www.electricalcalibrations.com/product-detail.asp?search=77890
Bob . . .
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