Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:57 AM - Permanet Splicing RG400 (Jae Chang)
2. 08:54 AM - FWF Connector (Jared Yates)
3. 09:02 AM - Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:09 AM - Re: FWF Connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:11 AM - Re: FWF Connector (RGent1224@aol.com)
6. 09:16 AM - Diodes (Dennis Ramsey)
7. 09:19 AM - Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 (rparigoris)
8. 10:15 AM - Re: Diodes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:58 AM - Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 (rparigoris)
11. 11:03 AM - Re: FWF Connector (Sam Marlow)
12. 12:59 PM - Re: FWF Connector (Jim Dabney)
13. 08:57 PM - Re: More FUD (Fear Uncertainty and Doubt)? (Jeff Luckey)
Message 1
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Subject: | Permanet Splicing RG400 |
I am wondering if there is a way of permanently splicing together 2
sections of coax wire together. I realize I could use a male/female
connector. However, i would like to route this cable thru a wing
conduit, and the bulky connectors would just get in the way.
Thanks for any insights!
Jae
RV-10
Message 2
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I'm looking for a connector to use for my cowling-mounted landing light. I'll have
to disconnect it every time I remove the cowl, so I'd like to find something
fairly durable, with at least 3 conductors. Has anyone found a good product
for this role?
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 |
At 09:51 AM 7/31/2011, you wrote:
><jc-matronics_aeroelectric@jline.com>
>
> I am wondering if there is a way of permanently splicing together
> 2 sections of coax wire together. I realize I could use a
> male/female connector. However, i would like to route this cable
> thru a wing conduit, and the bulky connectors would just get in the way.
This only works well with heat-resistant,
modern coax like RG400 or RG142.
Slip 2 pieces of 1/2" heat shrink, 4 inches
long over ends to be spliced.
Strip back 1-1/2" of outer jacket and
push braids back to the end of the jackets.
Cut center conductors to 1" per side, then
strip 1/4" per side. Lap solder center
conductors. Wrap exposed joint with Teflon
pipe thread tape. It's okay if the tape
overlaps the ends of the center conductor
insulation and leaves a bit of a 'lump'.
Then take braid from one side and pull it
over the center conductor splice. Wrap
the last 1/2" with a few turns of fine strand
wire taken from some airframe wire. Solder
wire wrap very thinly to the braid. You're
wanting this to get 'fixtured' and 'smooth'
without getting 'thick'.
Pull the other braid over the fixtured
braid and repeat the fine-strand-wire wrap.
Then solder the braids to each other. Use
63/37 tin-lead solder.
Cover joint with one piece of shrink and heat
it. Cover with second piece of shrink and
heat that.
Yeah, this puts an 'impedance bump' in your feedline
that can be observed with the proper test equipment.
But if you had identical installations on the
airplane except for one pristine feedline and
one spliced feedline, you could switch back and
forth between them and observe no difference
in performance.
I used to do this with RG-58 . . . it's pretty
tricky due to low melting temperatures of the
PVC and PolyE insulations but it CAN be done
with practical success.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: FWF Connector |
At 10:51 AM 7/31/2011, you wrote:
>
>I'm looking for a connector to use for my cowling-mounted landing
>light. I'll have to disconnect it every time I remove the cowl, so
>I'd like to find something fairly durable, with at least 3
>conductors. Has anyone found a good product for this role?
Cessna started out with Wrist-Locks and/or knife
spices in this role, then went to Amp Mate-n-locks.
The plastic connectors demonstrated a service life
of ten years or better. You could use a d-sub connector
and do the pin-paralleling technique described here.
http://tinyurl.com/3flxqcc
A 15-pin connector with 5 paralleled pins per
conductor would achieve some electrical robustness.
Bob . . .
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Subject: | Re: FWF Connector |
How about the three wire trailer light hook up
Dick
In a message dated 7/31/2011 10:55:44 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
email@jaredyates.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared Yates
<email@jaredyates.com>
I'm looking for a connector to use for my cowling-mounted landing light.
I'll have to disconnect it every time I remove the cowl, so I'd like to find
something fairly durable, with at least 3 conductors. Has anyone found a
good product for this role?
Message 6
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Is there a difference in the diode that should be used in a 24 volt
contactor vs a 12 volt contactor. My kit provider supplied me with the
following Diode specification:
"1N4001 Diode; 1 a (Max.) @25C IF; 1. Max.)@25C; 5uAdc(max.)@2" "
My plane is 24Volt. Not trying to stir up the 24 vs 12 volt debate. That
debate was settled when the kit I bought already had some expensive 24 volt
components purchased by the previous builder.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 |
Hi Bob
Thx. for your explanation on how to splice coax cable.
Question:
What is airframe wire? Strands of stainless or plain steel control wire rope (control
cable)? Or perhaps you mean thin copper strands of Tefzel wire that is
hanging around?
"a few turns of fine strand wire taken from some airframe wire"
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=348160#348160
Message 8
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At 11:14 AM 7/31/2011, you wrote:
>Is there a difference in the diode that should be used in a 24 volt
>contactor vs a 12 volt contactor. My kit provider supplied me with
>the following Diode specification:
>
>"1N4001 Diode; 1 a (Max.) @25C IF; 1. Max.)@25C; 5uAdc(max.)@2" "
>
> My plane is 24Volt. Not trying to stir up the 24 vs 12 volt
> debate. That debate was settled when the kit I bought already had
> some expensive 24 volt components purchased by the previous builder.
These diodes are EXCEEDINGLY un-critical. ANYTHING
50V or better, 1A or better does the job. My personal
favorites are the 1N54xx series, 3A devices. They're
readily available at Radio Shack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62578
cheap but most important . . . robust. Heavier
20AWG leads and more robust bodies.
But the diodes you have will be fine . . .
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 |
At 11:16 AM 7/31/2011, you wrote:
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Hi Bob
>
>Thx. for your explanation on how to splice coax cable.
>
>Question:
>What is airframe wire? Strands of stainless or plain steel control
>wire rope (control cable)? Or perhaps you mean thin copper strands
>of Tefzel wire that is hanging around?
Sorry, 'hookup wire' is perhaps a better term.
A piece of 22AWG, M22759 will yield some nice
strands of 34AWG wire nicely suited to this
'fixturing' task.
When you're lap-splicing stranded wire, you
can use a strand from the base conductor
as shown . . .
http://tinyurl.com/dgg2nb
But in the coax-splicing task, you need to
acquire the fixture strands elsewhere.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Permanet Splicing RG400 |
Hi Bob
Thx. for the reply.
Ron Parigoris
Do not archive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=348169#348169
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: FWF Connector |
Jared Yates wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared Yates<email@jaredyates.com>
>
> I'm looking for a connector to use for my cowling-mounted landing light. I'll
have to disconnect it every time I remove the cowl, so I'd like to find something
fairly durable, with at least 3 conductors. Has anyone found a good product
for this role?
>
>
Cessna uses 2 knife splices on the older 172's.
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: FWF Connector |
I'm using a Metripack connector for that and it's holding up well.
On 7/31/2011 1:00 PM, Sam Marlow wrote:
> <sam.marlow@roadrunner.com>
>
> Jared Yates wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared
>> Yates<email@jaredyates.com>
>>
>> I'm looking for a connector to use for my cowling-mounted landing
>> light. I'll have to disconnect it every time I remove the cowl, so
>> I'd like to find something fairly durable, with at least 3
>> conductors. Has anyone found a good product for this role?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Cessna uses 2 knife splices on the older 172's.
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | More FUD (Fear Uncertainty and Doubt)? |
I've been fascinated w/ the VP product line since it came out. As an
electrical engineer I think it is a really cool way to skin the Power
Distribution cat but no matter how cool, I still don't want one in my
airplane. It seems like there is a lot of complexity involved to accomplish
a relatively simple mission - safe & reliable power distribution & control -
something we've been doing for decades w/ relatively inexpensive & proven
components.
I'm all for trying to apply new technologies to solving old problems, but
it's not easy, and sometimes the old way is hard to beat.
It looks kind of like a solution looking for a problem and it seems to put
all of your electrical eggs in one basket. Like Bob says, if the system
gets sick, it must come out - thus grounding (electrical pun intended;) your
airplane - while the system travels back and forth to the factory for
repair.
I think that you probably get a lot of bang but you also put up a lot of
bucks - I just don't see the value - but then again I'm capable of designing
& building my own system. Someone without that skill set may see it
differently.
I would like to hear from someone who is knowledgeable about VP's
features/benefits discuss why they think those system are better, stronger,
faster. I might learn something.
-Jeff
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 22:50
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: More FUD (Fear Uncertainty and Doubt)?
At 08:48 PM 7/30/2011, you wrote:
Bob, a number of manufacturers state in their installation manuals (Garmin -
GTN 650, PS Engineering - PS9000EX) that the use of push-pull circuit
breakers is required, and that the breakers "be readily accessible to the
pilot." Based on your recommendation I intend to use fuses, for simplicity
and cost. What's your view on the matter? I'm reluctant to go against a
manufacturer's recommendation/requirement, but don't want to do it blindly
either.
Black box designers are not systems designers.
Further, their products are generally tested
to meet performance and environmental specifications
that are never called upon to 'test the efficacy
of protection for power feeders.' In other
words, it's none of their business. If their
devices were being installed in an airplane
fitted with a VP system . . . or an airplane
like the Eclipse, there are no pullable
breakers.
Do these same folks insist on an Avionics
Master Switch?
Bottom line is that the authors of their
installation manuals are more lawyer than
engineer.
As long as I'm asking, what's your view on the VPX-PRO? I was initially
attracted to it, but thought better of it for a number of reasons (much
higher cost than fuses, support issues if Vertical Power goes away,
electronic interface to reset an ECB (i.e. complexity?), single power bus,
etc.). Plus, I'n not sure if the added benefits of their systems exceed the
negatives. I'd be interested in your opinion.
What is your return on investment? Lighter
airplane, faster airplane, lower fuel
consumption? Yes, lots of nice nic-nacs
but are you a PILOT or someone who would
rather just be along for a nice ride?
If you have a fuse/breaker/switch system,
you know where every part comes from and what
spares will cost you for repairs. If the VP
system gets a cold, your airplane is down
while the factory repairs it. It uses software
you didn't write, parts you didn't buy and
couldn't replace even if you had them . . .
'cause you don't understand it.
I just don't see that the VP products are
in synchronization for why we choose to
built our own airplanes as opposed to paying
factory prices. Certainly cost/performance
ratio is a strong driver and I don't see
how a VP product fits that recipe for success.
Bob . . .
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