Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:16 AM - Re: Stop nuts one terminal studs? (racerjerry)
2. 07:47 AM - Re: Power Supply Connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:50 AM - Re: Stop nuts one terminal studs? (messydeer)
4. 09:05 AM - GRT GPS options (rvtach)
5. 09:53 AM - Re: GRT GPS options (Tim Andres)
6. 10:24 AM - Jabiru Voltage Regulator Wires Mislabeled? (messydeer)
7. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: Stop nuts one terminal studs? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
8. 11:05 AM - Re: GRT GPS options (David E. Nelson)
9. 12:14 PM - Re: GRT GPS options (rvtach)
10. 12:34 PM - Re: Jabiru Voltage Regulator Wires Mislabeled? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 12:44 PM - Re: Re: GRT GPS options (Charlie England)
12. 01:40 PM - Re: Re: GRT GPS options (Tim Andres)
13. 01:51 PM - Re: Re: GRT GPS options (David E. Nelson)
14. 04:23 PM - Magneto Grounding (messydeer)
15. 05:17 PM - Re: Magneto Grounding (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 05:58 PM - cooling fan thermostat (Dan Ballin)
17. 06:02 PM - Circuit protection for DO-160 compliance.... (Steve Stearns)
18. 06:30 PM - Re: cooling fan thermostat (Daniel Hooper)
19. 06:37 PM - Re: cooling fan thermostat (paul wilson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stop nuts one terminal studs? |
As a licensed A&P mechanic, I shudder to think of what the repercussions would
be if I were to advocate the mixing of AN standard and metric hardware and something
went wrong. Please listen carefully to Bob and use an internal star lockwasher
under the metric nut. It is a RARE day indeed when Bob will steer you
wrong.
The more educated and experienced of us must teach our students the correct way
not what we can get away with. They will learn that all too easily on their
own. Hopefully, no one will be killed in the process.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350305#350305
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| Subject: | Re: Power Supply Connections |
At 03:43 PM 8/22/2011, you wrote:
>I just bought this power supply for my hangar:
>
><http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250852141183&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123>http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250852141183&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123
>
>I will plug it into my airplane's electrical system whenever I'm in
>the hangar and running the instrument panel, such as when updating
>the navigation database or running the "glass cockpit" in simulator
>mode for practice. I'll also use it occasionally to top off the
>battery. I'll plug it into a 120VAC wall outlet and it will supply 12VDC (as
>adjustable from 10.8 to 13.2 VDC).
The availability of capable switch-mode power supplies
on eBay has really expanded over the past few years. The
$value$ has climbed steadily too. For a short period of time
about 7 years ago, the 'Connection offered a 25A, 13.8v
power supply for $125 . . . a good value at the time but
now one can acquire more output for less dollars. A good
example can be seen here:
http://tinyurl.com/3kx6rvc
These are not necessarily plug-in-play devices for powering
up your airplane on the ground . . . but they're close.
Some products caution against using them to 'charge a battery'.
It's not because the supply might be damaged by such a task,
it has to do with the BACKFLOW of current into a power supply
that is deprived of AC mains power while still connected to the
battery. I have a couple of exemplar supplies on my bench going
into a project for a customer. These are 28v, 15A supplies and
I'm using them to charge small batteries. Reverse current into
a powered down supply is about 50 milliamps. This backflow would
ultimately discharge a battery. Also, without a schematic to study,
I'm not 100% sure that this backflow would not damage the power
supply. I'm wiring Schottky diodes in series with the supplies
to prevent this condition.
Keep in mind to that a "12-volt" power supply will run your
ship's accessories, it takes at least 14.0 volts to top
off a battery. Adding 0.5 volts of drop in the isolation diode
and you'll find that your supply needs to be rated for 14.5
volts of output. One might consider a relay in series with the
supply's output that is powered from the same 120vac source
that energizes the power supply. If power is removed . . . or
fails while you're not around to deal with it . . . the relay
will drop out and effect an automatic disconnect.
A relay would be a good companion to the power supply linked
above . . . a diode would work well with a power supply rated
at 15 volts. In fact, the power supply cited above can be
adjusted to offset the small voltage across a heat-sink mounted
diode.
At 36 Amps, $67 and free shipping, this device is an exceptional
value.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stop nuts one terminal studs? |
Thanks for the feedback, guys.
I was able to find the info for Odyssey battery, M6 40 in-lbs, and the EV200 battery
contactor, M8 x 1.25 80-100 in-lbs. I'll use internal star washers and
torque to these values.
I couldn't find any info on the Jabiru starter contactor. The posts are the color
of a shiny penny and about 5/16" diameter. Threads look coarse, but didn't
fit a 5/16-18 bolt. The stackup order on each post from the bottom up is internal
star washer, nut, another internal star washer and another nut. The bottom
nuts were already torqued pretty tight.
I've done one starter contactor terminal, placing the ring over lower nut and tightening
the top nut with star washer. Used a wrench to hold the lower nut while
I tightened the upper one. Not sure how much torque there was on it, but the
first go wasn't tight enough. During tightening, the cable lug rotated, so
I pushed the cable back into place, which caused the top nut to loosen. After
tightening a bit more, the top and bottom nuts rotate on the post as a unit when
I push on the cable, but it takes a lot more force than before. I'm essentially
using the cable as a lever, like a wrench, since the nuts and lug rotate
as a unit. I'd be happy to call this good.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350317#350317
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Hi all-
I am installing my GRT Sport EFIS which I purchased without the internal GPS option.
The Sport has the capability of accepting GPS data via a serial (single
wire) input. I'm a working guy, paying as I go and so I'm trying to find a cost
effective way to accomplish this.
What I had proposed was to use one of the el cheapo USB GPS recievers (NMEA, hockey
puck style for $40 to $60) to provide GPS data to the EFIS. An example would
be the Globalsat BU-353. I found a USB jack with 10" leads attached that I
would wire for 5 volts (to power the receiver) and run the DATA OUT wire from
the receiver to the EFIS. I would just leave the DATA IN wire disconnected. I
thought this was a promising idea.
I have been corresponding with GRT for 2 days now and they say my plan won't work
because USB uses 2 data wires and the Sport needs it's data over a single wire.
They suggested one of the Garmin handheld aviation GPS's. But when I look
at the manual for the 396 (just for an example) it shows that there are 2 data
wires (one IN and one OUT) just like the USB device! The Garmin manual shows
that the DATA OUT wire is all that is routed to an "autopilot / NMEA device".
Both GPS's are NMEA compliant.
So, it seems like my solution isn't completely out in left field (maybe?). But
there's a whole lot that I don't know about this so I'm hoping someone who's more
electrically astute than I am can help me get clear on this. I'm lost now.
If this type of GPS receiver is not appropriate then any suggestions for one
that will work would be very much appreciated.
Thank you all so much for everything I have learned over the past 8 years of being
a fly on the wall of this group!
--------
Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Finishing Kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350324#350324
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: GRT GPS options |
On 8/23/2011 9:02 AM, rvtach wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rvtach"<rvtach@msn.com>
>
> Hi all-
>
> I am installing my GRT Sport EFIS which I purchased without the internal GPS
option. The Sport has the capability of accepting GPS data via a serial (single
wire) input. I'm a working guy, paying as I go and so I'm trying to find a cost
effective way to accomplish this.
>
> What I had proposed was to use one of the el cheapo USB GPS recievers (NMEA,
hockey puck style for $40 to $60) to provide GPS data to the EFIS. An example
would be the Globalsat BU-353. I found a USB jack with 10" leads attached that
I would wire for 5 volts (to power the receiver) and run the DATA OUT wire from
the receiver to the EFIS. I would just leave the DATA IN wire disconnected.
I thought this was a promising idea.
>
> I have been corresponding with GRT for 2 days now and they say my plan won't
work because USB uses 2 data wires and the Sport needs it's data over a single
wire. They suggested one of the Garmin handheld aviation GPS's. But when I look
at the manual for the 396 (just for an example) it shows that there are 2 data
wires (one IN and one OUT) just like the USB device! The Garmin manual shows
that the DATA OUT wire is all that is routed to an "autopilot / NMEA device".
Both GPS's are NMEA compliant.
>
> So, it seems like my solution isn't completely out in left field (maybe?). But
there's a whole lot that I don't know about this so I'm hoping someone who's
more electrically astute than I am can help me get clear on this. I'm lost now.
If this type of GPS receiver is not appropriate then any suggestions for one
that will work would be very much appreciated.
>
> Thank you all so much for everything I have learned over the past 8 years of
being a fly on the wall of this group!
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>
My suggestion is you get yourself an Byonics RTG from
http://www.byonics.com/mt-rtg.
You can then pull or "TEE" the serial data off for your second GPS
source and have a cool APRS install in the process. There is a ton of
info on this at VAF or just google it . You will need a TECH (HAM)
license to use it but you can almost buy the license anymore is so
simple. Test questions are on the web and its a simple matter to get the
license.
Tim
>
>
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| Subject: | Jabiru Voltage Regulator Wires Mislabeled? |
Hello:
I noticed my voltage regulator for my Jabiru 3300 has the red and yellow wires
in different places than what the Jab schematic says. The schematic, taken from
the Jabiru manual, says the top 3 wires in the plug are pale blue, black, and
pale blue, in positions 1, 2 and 3 respectively. That agrees with my plug. But
Jabiru says the bottom 3 wires are green (4), yellow (5), and red (6) whereas
my voltage regulator has red in the #4 position, and green in the #6 position.
I'm assuming I should go by the colors of the wires, figuring they either mislabeled
the schematic, or inserted the wrong wires in the plug. I have long since
removed this plug and replaced it with fast on terminals. Pic of this with the
schematic is attached.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350332#350332
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/jabiru_voltage_regulator_schematic_vs_my_regulator_927.pdf
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stop nuts one terminal studs? |
Good Afternoon Dan,
I am confident you will do this, but may I mention that it is excellent
practice to place an Adel clamp in a strategic location which will make the
wire not work as a wrench?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 8/23/2011 10:51:08 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
messydeer@yahoo.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the feedback, guys.
I was able to find the info for Odyssey battery, M6 40 in-lbs, and the
EV200 battery contactor, M8 x 1.25 80-100 in-lbs. I'll use internal star
washers and torque to these values.
I couldn't find any info on the Jabiru starter contactor. The posts are
the color of a shiny penny and about 5/16" diameter. Threads look coarse, but
didn't fit a 5/16-18 bolt. The stackup order on each post from the bottom
up is internal star washer, nut, another internal star washer and another
nut. The bottom nuts were already torqued pretty tight.
I've done one starter contactor terminal, placing the ring over lower nut
and tightening the top nut with star washer. Used a wrench to hold the
lower nut while I tightened the upper one. Not sure how much torque there was
on it, but the first go wasn't tight enough. During tightening, the cable lug
rotated, so I pushed the cable back into place, which caused the top nut
to loosen. After tightening a bit more, the top and bottom nuts rotate on
the post as a unit when I push on the cable, but it takes a lot more force
than before. I'm essentially using the cable as a lever, like a wrench,
since the nuts and lug rotate as a unit. I'd be happy to call this good.
--------
Dan
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: GRT GPS options |
Hi Jim,
As you've pointed out, the Globalsat BU-353 uses USB. In this sense, the USB
connection is providing both power (+5V and GND) and data (differential voltage
signals). That's great for a PC w/ a USB port. However, and I could be very
wrong, the GRT Sport unit uses RS-232 serial ports for data - a completely
different critter than USB.
To go from USB to/from RS-232, you need some kind of converter - they typically
run about 3-25 USD (looking at Amazon.com). That solves the data portion. You
still have power to contend with, however. The RS-232 converters I mentioned
don't break out any power leads that I'm aware of.
Staying with GlobalSat, they do have an RS-232 based unit (BR-355 GPS) with a
PS/2 connector. Combine this with their BR305-RS232 and you now have RS-232 and
power. Problem is, however, that power is still 5VDC.
To Tim's suggestion - look at byonics.com and their GPS receivers -
http://www.byonics.com/tinytrak/gps.php - in particular their 'GPS2' (69 USD)
and 'GPAP' (25 USD) products. If you're interested, this also opens the path to
expand into APRS if at some time in the future you feel compelled.
Good luck,
/\/elson
On Tue, 23 Aug 2011, rvtach wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am installing my GRT Sport EFIS which I purchased without the internal GPS
> option. The Sport has the capability of accepting GPS data via a serial
> (single wire) input. I'm a working guy, paying as I go and so I'm trying to
> find a cost effective way to accomplish this.
>
> What I had proposed was to use one of the el cheapo USB GPS recievers (NMEA,
> hockey puck style for $40 to $60) to provide GPS data to the EFIS. An example
> would be the Globalsat BU-353. I found a USB jack with 10" leads attached that
> I would wire for 5 volts (to power the receiver) and run the DATA OUT wire
> from the receiver to the EFIS. I would just leave the DATA IN wire
> disconnected. I thought this was a promising idea.
>
> I have been corresponding with GRT for 2 days now and they say my plan won't
> work because USB uses 2 data wires and the Sport needs it's data over a single
> wire. They suggested one of the Garmin handheld aviation GPS's. But when I
> look at the manual for the 396 (just for an example) it shows that there are
2
> data wires (one IN and one OUT) just like the USB device! The Garmin manual
> shows that the DATA OUT wire is all that is routed to an "autopilot / NMEA
> device". Both GPS's are NMEA compliant.
>
> So, it seems like my solution isn't completely out in left field (maybe?). But
> there's a whole lot that I don't know about this so I'm hoping someone who's
> more electrically astute than I am can help me get clear on this. I'm lost
> now. If this type of GPS receiver is not appropriate then any suggestions for
> one that will work would be very much appreciated.
>
> Thank you all so much for everything I have learned over the past 8 years of
> being a fly on the wall of this group!
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350324#350324
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: GRT GPS options |
Tim and Nelson-
Thanks for the info.
As to the 5 volts I may be able to pull that from the GRT Engine Information System which outputs 4.8 volts for excitation voltage or I can install a 12V to 5V converter from www.current-logic.com for $10.
I looked at the GlobalSat BR355 unit and will probably go with that but I would
still like to learn how this works. My confusion is from the labels USB, RS-232,
Serial etc. I sort of thought that USB was just the form factor for the plug/receptacle
and that it doesn't really have any meaning with regards to the
data that is transmitted. Is there a difference in the data supplied from the
#3 pin of a USB GPS versus the data supplied from the corresponding pin (#5) on
the PS/2 connector on the BR355 unit?
Thanks for taking the time to answer my newby questions!
--------
Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Finishing Kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350341#350341
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Voltage Regulator Wires Mislabeled? |
At 12:20 PM 8/23/2011, you wrote:
Hello:
I noticed my voltage regulator for my Jabiru 3300 has the red and
yellow wires in different places than what the Jab schematic says.
The schematic, taken from the Jabiru manual, says the top 3 wires in
the plug are pale blue, black, and pale blue, in positions 1, 2 and 3
respectively. That agrees with my plug. But Jabiru says the bottom 3
wires are green (4), yellow (5), and red (6) whereas my voltage
regulator has red in the #4 position, and green in the #6 position.
I'm assuming I should go by the colors of the wires, figuring they
either mislabeled the schematic, or inserted the wrong wires in the
plug. I have long since removed this plug and replaced it with fast
on terminals. Pic of this with the schematic is attached.
Staying with the colors is a good bet . . . particularly
since the illustration of the connector does not state
whether it is a wire-side or mate-side view.
Emacs!
Emacs!
Unless there are pin numbers molded into the connector
body somewhere which conflict with the wiring diagram,
then the illustration is strongly suggestive of a mate-side
view . . . which agrees with the connector in the photo.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: GRT GPS options |
On 08/23/2011 02:10 PM, rvtach wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rvtach"<rvtach@msn.com>
>
> Tim and Nelson-
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> As to the 5 volts I may be able to pull that from the GRT Engine Information System which outputs 4.8 volts for excitation voltage or I can install a 12V to 5V converter from www.current-logic.com for $10.
>
> I looked at the GlobalSat BR355 unit and will probably go with that but I would
still like to learn how this works. My confusion is from the labels USB, RS-232,
Serial etc. I sort of thought that USB was just the form factor for the
plug/receptacle and that it doesn't really have any meaning with regards to the
data that is transmitted. Is there a difference in the data supplied from the
#3 pin of a USB GPS versus the data supplied from the corresponding pin (#5)
on the PS/2 connector on the BR355 unit?
>
> Thanks for taking the time to answer my newby questions!
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
Try some of these for info:
> http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&client=ubuntu&channel=cs&ie=UTF-8&q=serial+vs+usb
> <http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&client=ubuntu&channel=cs&ie=UTF-8&q=serial+vs+usb>
USB is(are) serial interface, but serial interfaces come in an almost
infinite variety, while USB comes in only 3 common versions, that I'm
aware of.
Charlie
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: GRT GPS options |
On 8/23/2011 12:10 PM, rvtach wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rvtach"<rvtach@msn.com>
>
> Tim and Nelson-
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> As to the 5 volts I may be able to pull that from the GRT Engine Information System which outputs 4.8 volts for excitation voltage or I can install a 12V to 5V converter from www.current-logic.com for $10.
>
> I looked at the GlobalSat BR355 unit and will probably go with that but I would
still like to learn how this works. My confusion is from the labels USB, RS-232,
Serial etc. I sort of thought that USB was just the form factor for the
plug/receptacle and that it doesn't really have any meaning with regards to the
data that is transmitted. Is there a difference in the data supplied from the
#3 pin of a USB GPS versus the data supplied from the corresponding pin (#5)
on the PS/2 connector on the BR355 unit?
>
> Thanks for taking the time to answer my newby questions!
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>
I did just that, pulled the 5VDC off the EIS. Not flying yet but I know
of others who have used this option with success.
Tim
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: GRT GPS options |
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the link to the 12V -> 5V - I'm bookmarking that site; I like the
packaging/mounting.
> 4.8 volts for excitation voltage
Is this for the fuel probes?
Personally, I'd go with the DC-DC converter approach and have a 5V bus to power
future gadgets off of and not have to worry about this 'excitation voltage' and
what its properties are.
> My confusion is from the labels USB, RS-232, Serial etc.
Think of USB as a next generation serial bus for PC's. It was developed to
address hanging peripherals (mice, keyboards, printers, storage, cameras, etc)
off of a PC. More info can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
USB, as compared to RS-232, is very complex. The signaling on the wires
between the two is very different and non-compatible - hence the requirement for
the USB/RS-232 converter (it's not a simple matter of just connecting the wires
to the different pins as in the old serial DB9/DB25 converters).
There are tons of serial protocols. The 'USB' and 'RS-232' labels define how
the spec is applied.
> I sort of thought that USB was just the form factor for the plug/receptacle
> and that it doesn't really have any meaning with regards to the data that is
> transmitted.
The USB spec spells out the connector, power, signaling, bandwidth,
handshaking, topology, etc, etc. Compare the USB wikipedia link above to the
RS-232 wikipedia link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232
> Is there a difference in the data supplied from the #3 pin of a USB GPS versus
> the data supplied from the corresponding pin (#5) on the PS/2 connector on the
> BR355 unit?
Yes. A huge, incompatible one. ;)
Before you buy - I'd confirm 100% that the RS-232 port on the GRT can be
configured to what the GlobalSat will do. For example: 9600 baud, no parity, 8
bit data, 1 stop bit, etc (typically written as '9600 8N1' or something close to
that). Somewhere in the GlobalSat docs it should spell this out very clearly
and if it's configurable and how to change it, if needed. As an example,
sometime ago, I was fooling around with an NMEA 0183 device and it took me
awhile to figure out that my gadget was talking 4800 baud and I had assumed it
was talking 9600.
> PS/2
Oh wait ... You might need a PS/2 <-> RS-232 converter. From
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PS/2_connector
"The PS/2 keyboard interface was electrically the same as the 5-pin AT system,
and keyboards designed for one can be connected to the other with a simple
wiring adapter. The PS/2 mouse interface is substantially different from RS-232
(which was generally used for mice on PCs without PS/2 ports), but nonetheless
many mice were made that could operate on both with a simple wiring adapter."
It looks as if they are just just using the PS/2 connector out of convenience as
it has this on their site: "8. RS232 interface connection port." Oh, BTW, it
does 4800 baud but no mention of 8N1; If they are true to NMEA 0183, then they
are doing 8N1.
Let us know when you're ready, and we can walk you through the wiring.
Regards,
/\/elson
On Tue, 23 Aug 2011, rvtach wrote:
>
> Tim and Nelson-
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> As to the 5 volts I may be able to pull that from the GRT Engine Information
> System which outputs 4.8 volts for excitation voltage or I can install a 12V
> to 5V converter from www.current-logic.com for $10.
>
> I looked at the GlobalSat BR355 unit and will probably go with that but I
> would still like to learn how this works. My confusion is from the labels USB,
> RS-232, Serial etc. I sort of thought that USB was just the form factor for
> the plug/receptacle and that it doesn't really have any meaning with regards
> to the data that is transmitted. Is there a difference in the data supplied
> from the #3 pin of a USB GPS versus the data supplied from the corresponding
> pin (#5) on the PS/2 connector on the BR355 unit?
>
> Thanks for taking the time to answer my newby questions!
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350341#350341
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Magneto Grounding |
I've got a Jabiru 3300, whose mags have fast on terminals. I know to connect them
to the inner wire of the shielded ignition leads and to separate the outer
braid, which connects to the engine ground. My #4 welding cable engine ground
connects the firewall to the starter case. I'm planning on connecting both mag
outer braids to the same spot, under the AN3 case bolt. So there'd be a #4 ring
and two 20awg rings under this bolt. So far so good?
While reading about this I read that one person says he connects the mag grounds
to each other at the switch. This would provide a redundant ground path in case
of a failure of one mag ground. He said it wouldn't cause any ground loop
noise problem. But isn't this why Bob says to "...attach the shield to one and
only one switch terminal at the cockpit end..."?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350370#350370
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Magneto Grounding |
At 06:19 PM 8/23/2011, you wrote:
I've got a Jabiru 3300, whose mags have fast on terminals. I know to
connect them to the inner wire of the shielded ignition leads and to
separate the outer braid, which connects to the engine ground. My #4
welding cable engine ground connects the firewall to the starter
case. I'm planning on connecting both mag outer braids to the same
spot, under the AN3 case bolt. So there'd be a #4 ring and two 20awg
rings under this bolt. So far so good?
While reading about this I read that one person says he connects the
mag grounds to each other at the switch. This would provide a
redundant ground path in case of a failure of one mag ground. He said
it wouldn't cause any ground loop noise problem. But isn't this why
Bob says to "...attach the shield to one and only one switch terminal
at the cockpit end..."?
Failure of a magneto ground does not cause the engine
to stop . . . it only prevents the magneto control switch
from disabling that particular mag. This would be detected
during pre-flight . . . assuming that killing one mag
on a Jab3300 produces the classic 'mag-drop'.
If shutting down one of two mags does not produce a
tell-tale in the cockpit, then loss of a ground would
produce a latent failure. There's no good reason
to have multiple grounds but perhaps a good reason to
check ground integrity as part of a routine periodic
maintenance check.
I recommend each mag switch get grounded through the shield
of the p-lead where only the mag end of the p-lead shield
goes to the crankcase or other handy fastener on the engine.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | cooling fan thermostat |
Anyone have an easy/elegant solution. I'd like to put a cooling fan
on my glare shield that exhausts the avionics when the temperature
gets over about 120. I figured some use of a thermistor, but need
some guidance. I already have an avionics fan, but in the Legacy at
least, it is nice to be able to exhaust hot air as well, but really
only want it on when needed.
Thanks
Dan Ballin
Legacy N386DM
Message 17
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| Subject: | Circuit protection for DO-160 compliance.... |
Greetings list,
I've got gauges (Westach) for oil pressure and fuel pressure but I'm
thinking I would like idiot lights as well. My preference is just to
hang a couple of comparitors on the wires to the gauges rather than add
additional switch-style sensors.
Are there any suggestions for signal and power filtering (resistor, cap,
etc.) so that my little comparitor and LED drive circuit is as robust as
something designed for DO-160 compliance? I'm skilled enough to make
some good guesses but if there are any tried true (aircraft/ DO-160)
methods for protecting the low impedance (power) input and the high
impedance (comparitor) inputs I'd love to hear about them. (I don't
need best guesses or untried approaches as I've got plenty of those
already).
Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: cooling fan thermostat |
This is a 50C switch (122F) that should work for you:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=723-1192-ND
It's good for up to 1A and will reset at some point between 30C (95F) and 46C (115F).
It's unclear from the datasheet, but I think the mounting tab is not connected
to anything, so you can screw that to some aluminum at the back of your panel,
put a clip-on TO-220 heat sink on it to better sample the air temperature, or
allow it to float in the air you're measuring.
If you use it, let me know how it works for you.
--Daniel
On Aug 23, 2011, at 7:55 PM, Dan Ballin wrote:
>
> Anyone have an easy/elegant solution. I'd like to put a cooling fan
> on my glare shield that exhausts the avionics when the temperature
> gets over about 120. I figured some use of a thermistor, but need
> some guidance. I already have an avionics fan, but in the Legacy at
> least, it is nice to be able to exhaust hot air as well, but really
> only want it on when needed.
>
> Thanks
> Dan Ballin
> Legacy N386DM
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: cooling fan thermostat |
Search for a temp switch. The industurll ones are most reliable. Good
luck finding one lower than 150-180. Typicaly thery are for
automotive use. Small however. Just hang it close to the heat source.
PaulW
========
At 06:55 PM 8/23/2011, you wrote:
>
>Anyone have an easy/elegant solution. I'd like to put a cooling fan
>on my glare shield that exhausts the avionics when the temperature
>gets over about 120. I figured some use of a thermistor, but need
>some guidance. I already have an avionics fan, but in the Legacy at
>least, it is nice to be able to exhaust hot air as well, but really
>only want it on when needed.
>
>Thanks
>Dan Ballin
>Legacy N386DM
>
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