Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:58 AM - Re: Icomm IC-A200 music and iPhone inputs (William Day)
2. 06:17 AM - Re: Icomm IC-A200 music and iPhone inputs (Michael Welch)
3. 09:07 AM - Re: RV-6A load analysis/architecture (Vern Little)
4. 10:44 AM - BMA EFIS Lite ()
5. 11:04 AM - Radio receiver burn out (RVBUILDER1)
6. 12:22 PM - Re: RV-6A load analysis/architecture (Ken)
7. 09:03 PM - It's the little things ()
8. 10:07 PM - Re: RV-6A load analysis/architecture (Jeff B.)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Icomm IC-A200 music and iPhone inputs |
Mike=0A-=0AI have the pin-outs, just not sure which to use.=0A-=0AShoul
d I use=0A-=0A3 - Left audio=0AC - Right audio=0A4 - Gnd=0AJ - Mic for iP
hone=0A-=0A-=0ADo I need to do any thing special to share the audio?=0A
-=0AI understand the radio is Mono,- want to combine the 2 audio inputs
and want to tie the music and iPhone audio together.=0AI would not have mu
sic playing if I need to use the phone.=0A-=0ACan I pass the mic straight
through?=0A-=0AThanks=0ABill=0A-=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ico
mm IC-A200 music and iPhone inputs=0AFrom: Michael Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotma
il.com>=0A=0ABill,=0A=0AIf you go to the Icom website, you can pull up the
pin diagram for the =0AA-200. I wired my intercom to the A-200 =0Afairly e
asily, and also added the Dynon D10A audio alarm. You shouldn't =0Ahave an
y problems once you get the =0Adiagram for the pins.=0A=0AMike Welch=0A=0A
=0AOn Aug 26, 2011, at 9:28 PM, William Day wrote:=0A=0A> I want to wire a
music jack and cellphone(iPhone) jack to my IC-a200=0A> =0A> Is there a dia
gram showing how to do this?=0A> =0A> Thanks=0A> Bill=0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Icomm IC-A200 music and iPhone inputs |
Hi Bill,
My expertise level may be closer to yours, rather than some of our
esteemed electro-gurus.
I think I'd be asking for confirmation in this situation from our
premium members on this list, same as you.
But......it does sound like you are the right path with the stereo
inputs. I can't speak for the duplex nature of
the iPhone hook-up, though. While the Pin J may work for the "voice in"
part of the iPhone, I don't know
how the "hearing" part would work.
We need one of the 'truly qualified" to address this one for ya.
Sorry I am not more help.
If you can't get someone here on the list to speak with authority on
this matter, I'd suggest calling Icom.
They ought to know where to proceed.
Mike Welch
On Aug 27, 2011, at 6:51 AM, William Day wrote:
> Mike
>
> I have the pin-outs, just not sure which to use.
>
> Should I use
>
> 3 - Left audio
> C - Right audio
> 4 - Gnd
> J - Mic for iPhone
>
>
> Do I need to do any thing special to share the audio?
>
> I understand the radio is Mono, want to combine the 2 audio inputs
and want to tie the music and iPhone audio together.
> I would not have music playing if I need to use the phone.
>
> Can I pass the mic straight through?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Icomm IC-A200 music and iPhone inputs
> From: Michael Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
>
> Bill,
>
> If you go to the Icom website, you can pull up the pin diagram for the
> A-200. I wired my intercom to the A-200
> fairly easily, and also added the Dynon D10A audio alarm. You
shouldn't
> have any problems once you get the
> diagram for the pins.
>
> Mike Welch
>
>
> On Aug 26, 2011, at 9:28 PM, William Day wrote:
>
> > I want to wire a music jack and cellphone(iPhone) jack to my IC-a200
> >
> > Is there a diagram showing how to do this?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bill
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6A load analysis/architecture |
Your analysis is the right way to approach this.
Some additions:
-battery charging current (peaks after start-up)
-alternator field current (if you have an external regulator)
But here=99s the big issue: Sometimes maximum loads are
experienced with the engine at low rpm (taxiing, approach). This
stresses the alternator more. Not a problem for short durations
(that=99s what the battery is for), but it can overheat the
alternator (low rpm, low airflow, high load). My personal opinion is
that a larger capacity alternator will be less stressed than one that is
just =98adequate=99.
Your analysis shows that a 35A alternator would probably be adequate
(even allowing for charging and alt field current), but I would
recommend one with higher capacity. I=99ve fried a 35A on the
ground with just a 15A load during taxi and a 80F OAT. My next plane
will have a 60A alternator. Also, pay attention to alternator diode
cooling=94mine had been melted right off, even with a blast tube.
In fact, if you have a spare thermometer input, epoxy a sensor to the
alternator diode pack. You may be surprised.
V
From: Jeff B.
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 8:22 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RV-6A load analysis/architecture
'Lectric Listers,
We're re-doing the entire panel on a flying RV-6A, replacing the
vacuum gauges with GRT, going with dual Lightspeed ignitions, solving
noise problems, cleaning up wire routing, and generally bringing it up
to "Aeroelectric" best practices. The aircraft belongs to my
father-in-law, who bought it flying from the original builder. I am the
sucker, I mean electrical engineer, who volunteered to do all the design
work. Being an EE means I tend to over-analyze things, so if you all
think I'm being too concerned here or there, feel free to tell me so.
With that in mind, I would appreciate feedback on the load analysis and
architecture selection. I have attached a .pdf of the latest rendition.
Items highlighted in yellow are total guesses -- if anyone knows better
numbers, by all means speak up. Items in bold/italic are items that
will remain powered via e-bus if the primary alternator fails. If
anyone would like a copy of the original spreadsheet, e-mail me off-list
and I'll send it to you.
Mission: Day/Night VFR, future IFR when pilots appropriately rated
(we're both private, non-instrument rated).
We will include the SD-8 alternator, and use dual displays (GRT HX and
HS) with dual AHRS for redundancy.
Architecture: I am recommending Z-10/8 to avoid rebooting the displays
upon startup. It adds a contactor, but my FIL requested that the
displays remain up during cranking.
Is there anything missing from the analysis?
Have I chosen appropriate flight phases and loads?
The flight current loads seem smaller than I was expecting, since I've
heard people clamoring for 60+ amp alternators. The current main
alternator is a special case, so I'll reserve discussion for a separate
e-mail post.
____________
-Jeff-
Albuquerque, NM
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Message 4
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I=99m upgrading my panel and am about to put my working Gen 1 BMA
EFIS Lite setup (EFIS, GPS, Magnetometer, OAT probe, keyboard) up for
sale on eBay. I remember seeing a post from someone interested in
buying up BMA equipment, but I can=99t seem to find that contact
info.
If you are interested in it or remember who it was that was looking for
them, please let me know off-list.
Thanks,
James
www.berkut13.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Radio receiver burn out |
While flying the other day my radio stopped receiving but would transmit ok. I
sent it to the factory and they said the the radio looked like the antenna had
a lighting strike because it was extremely fried inside.
I had no strike and have never flown in bad weather.
What could cause this?
Hear are some other observations
1) When my strobe is on when it flashes my amp meter discharges with each flash.
2) When I taxi past the antenna for the field I can hear the field identifer
in the headset but I am not on the frequency?
any ideas?
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350778#350778
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6A load analysis/architecture |
I favour a small alternator for less energy and slower voltage rise if
it runs away, and of course for the lighter weight. With modern
internally regulated alternators I wonder if any have thermal
protection. Certainly lots of cheap discrete power ic's have integral
temperature protection. Anybody know if there is any temperature
protection in modern alternators? The ones I've had apart have separate
diode assemblies so perhaps not for the diodes.
Ken
On 8/27/2011 12:02 PM, Vern Little wrote:
> Your analysis is the right way to approach this.
> Some additions:
> -battery charging current (peaks after start-up)
> -alternator field current (if you have an external regulator)
> But heres the big issue: Sometimes maximum loads are experienced with
> the engine at low rpm (taxiing, approach). This stresses the alternator
> more. Not a problem for short durations (thats what the battery is
> for), but it can overheat the alternator (low rpm, low airflow, high
> load). My personal opinion is that a larger capacity alternator will be
> less stressed than one that is just adequate.
> Your analysis shows that a 35A alternator would probably be adequate
> (even allowing for charging and alt field current), but I would
> recommend one with higher capacity. Ive fried a 35A on the ground with
> just a 15A load during taxi and a 80F OAT. My next plane will have a 60A
> alternator. Also, pay attention to alternator diode coolingmine had
> been melted right off, even with a blast tube. In fact, if you have a
> spare thermometer input, epoxy a sensor to the alternator diode pack.
> You may be surprised.
> V
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | It's the little things |
I had such a great time diagnosing a radio problem, I
figured I'd share it with the group. Here goes:
I installed a Z13/8 electrical system in my RV-7, pretty
much exactly as described in the current iteration. On
the radio side, I kept it fairly simple -- One GNS430W to
handle all my nav/comm needs, and an intercom. It
received GPS signals, vor/loc, and received comm. Good
sidetone on the intercom. I figured if it would receive,
it would send! It didn't. Pressing the PTT got me the
little "TX" indication on the GNS, but nobody could hear
me.
I looked through the list archives, and did some
trouble-shooting of my wiring. I removed the factory cork
gasket from my Comant antenna. I removed the aluminum
antenna screws I'd used and replaced 'em with steel
(desperation there). Checked my BNC crimps. Made sure I
didn't do anything really dumb like plug the nav coax into
the comm receptacle. I discovered after the fact that I
should have removed primer from under my antenna doubler,
but I was loathe to start drilling out rivets on another
goose chase.
I decided to let the "experts" give it a shot. I received
permission to fly the RV-7 nordo to the nearby towered
airport with a full-service avionics shop. They looked it
over, bench tested the GNS, took some readings off the
antenna and checked my amateur BNC crimping (not up to
their professional standards, it should be useable).
Finally got a bill for $100 and still no transmit.
I called Garmin factory support. In their opinion, my
Bose headset must be the problem. Thank you for calling.
I spent some time perusing the GNS installation manual.
Turns out there IS a "Comm won't transmit" item in the
toubleshooting pages. Answer: "Make sure it has power."
What kind of dopes do they think install these things?
It's like the home stereo instructions. "Make sure it's
plugged in."
I pulled the GNS out for the nth time and stared at the
back plate. The GNS-430 has three D-sub sockets
connecting it to the airplane -- "Main," "Comm," and
"Nav." The Main and Comm sockets both have power inputs
-- four power pins from two fuses or breakers. I knew
that transmitting drew more power by far than any other
function of the unit. Hmm.. My unspoken assumption had
been that if the unit received comm, it must have comm
power, right? Well, when nothing else pans out, you'll
try anything. I whipped out my little voltmeter and
tested the comm power pins. 3 volts?? Is that possible?
No idea, but when I touched the Main power pins, I got
the full 12 volts. I checked out the fuses and voila! My
comm power fuse had blown. As I was saying about dopes
and electronics...
I'm not sure how to explain the 3 volts I did get -- I
thought fuses were all-or-nothing affairs, but perhaps
not. Anyway, I popped in a new fuse and presto, I get
"loud and clear" reports from everybody I talk to. SO..
Maybe the "Comm" power pins need to be relabeled
"Transmit" power. And there you have it -- The $100 fuse.
Brooks
RV-7 N513BW Phase I ... :)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6A load analysis/architecture |
Vern & Ken, thanks for the input. I figured 10A or so ought to cover
charging, but after a cold day start that battery might be pretty taxed. I
did forget to consider the lower RPM during taxi and such.
Alternator: here's where I don't understand the present installation.
The present installation has an "Overhauled lightweight 35 Amp alternator"
from Mark Landoll's Electrical Service. It includes a Transpo F7078
external regulator. The sales documentation (attached) shows the regulator
installed as attached to the alternator. But, the as-built has the
regulator installed behind the instrument panel, separated from the
alternator. The field line appears to be directly switched. The regulation
signal, as stated by the Landoll data sheet as "the wye junction of the Ford
stator is the source of the signal for the F7078 regulator. At 1200 RPM, the
stator magnitude is only 35 mV." I'm not up to snuff on my motor/generator
theory, so I can't visualize what is happening with this setup. This setup
doesn't seem to match what I see in the Aeroelectric Connection. Is this an
optimal way of doing things, or are there advantages to the ways that Bob
describes vs. this Transpo setup? Will the split between alternator and
regulator create unforeseen issues?
Even if we kept the alternator, I would change the panel mounted B-lead
breaker protection to ANL style near the battery.
We might up the size of the alternator a bit and go with simple external
regulation (generic Ford regulator or such). So, my questions about
operation and potential for problems is mostly to satisfy my desire to
learn.
Second question: We will have a crowbar circuit for OVP, but does anyone see
a problem with relying on the GRT EIS4000 to supply the "low voltage"
warning? The EIS has a low-RPM maskable low voltage alert.
-Jeff-
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