AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 09/11/11


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 08:57 AM - Re: Re: Halogen bulbs with wig wag circuitry....failure mode (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 09:04 AM - Re: RF noise from Jeff's LED lights (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 09:43 AM - Re: Transponder troubles  (Speedy11@aol.com)
     4. 10:32 AM - Re: Halogen bulbs with wig wag circuitry....failure mode (Eric M. Jones)
     5. 11:33 AM - Re: ...failure mode (Paul)
     6. 12:08 PM - Re: Re: ...failure mode//sorry posted in error (Paul)
     7. 02:56 PM - building a batter capacity tester (MLWynn@aol.com)
     8. 08:14 PM - Re: building a batter capacity tester (Richard E. Tasker)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 08:57:13 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs with wig wag circuitry....failure
    mode >Wig-wagging really big halogen lamps is also easy providing a >current surge protector is used. I have demonstrated 2X 250 watt >lamps wig-wagging happily with our WW(c) or WW(d). Inrush current beyond the initial cold start is not an issue for incandescent lamps. The reason I plotted the this data . . . Emacs! was to show that while the first, cold start inrush was the typical 30+ amps, subsequent start up currents were quite nominal. The lamp being tested had a nominal on current of 4A (55w) but as you can see here, the average start up current in the wig-wag mode was a tad above 5A. This is because the filament doesn't cool off enough between flashes to push the inrush even close to a cold-start value. It isn't inrush killing these lamps by flashing them, it has to be temperature cycling . . . for which there is no mitigating 'fix'. After all, the reason these filaments produce white light is because they've been elevated from below a dull red glow to the white light produced by a metal glowing at 5000 degrees F. THATS a big temperature shift. I need to re-plot that trace above. There was some very strong noise source going on at the time that produced the fuzzy spikes on my data. Bob . . .


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:04:29 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: RF noise from Jeff's LED lights
    At 08:05 PM 9/9/2011, you wrote: > >I am getting a loud hiss on both aircraft radios whenever my LED >position lights are turned on. In fact, any FM radio in the >vicinity gets the hiss too. > >I have "Jeff's LED lights for RVs" installed in the wing tips along >with Bob Archer antennas. Though it may be worth noting that the >SL30 Comm antenna is a standard belly mounted bent whip. > >I know the RF is coming from the radios because if I turn the volume >down on the radios, the noise disappears (in other words, the >intercom is not affected). > >The archives have some discussion of filters, resistors and >capacitors but I'm not sure where to start. > >My first inclination is to disconnect one at a time to see if the >noise is coming from both lights. Then I don't know where to start. Some years ago, folks were building their own nav lights that utilized a "Buck Puck" constant current driver. They were experiencing similar noise problems. I proposed and fabricated a filtered version of the Buck Puck http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9051/ We also offered a filter-board that builders could use to quiet Buck Pucks they already owned. The instructions above describe a line noise filter that proved useful on the Buck Puck. If your fixtures use the same power supply then values for a filter are given in the document. You might be able to use one of our filter boards . . . or substitute a fully assembled power supply. Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:43:36 AM PST US
    From: Speedy11@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Transponder troubles
    Bob, Perfectly worded. Sounds like Congress. Stan Sutterfield Do not archive In a message dated 9/11/2011 3:01:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, aeroelectric-list@matronics.com writes: prime examples of what CAN happen when one agency with no particular expertise has the power to mandate behaviors to others without regard or responsibility for the unintended consequences.


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:32:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs with wig wag circuitry....failure
    mode
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    > Inrush current beyond the initial cold > start is not an issue for incandescent lamps. > The reason I plotted the this data . . . Quite true Bob, however I tried not having a first cycle, but it never seemed to work. You ALWAYS have a first pulse. Also, most timers using a 555 have an initial 1.5X times longer pulse than the second pulse. I no longer use the 555 for this reason. What I do now is have a faster r/c oscillator and a divider to get the correct timing. I'd be glad to share the schematic with interested parties. Nice graph of the pulses. I'd still bet that many halogen lamps have declined in quality. I've seen this first-hand. There are many variables in the making of halogen lamps. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351971#351971


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:33:26 AM PST US
    From: "Paul" <paulm@olypen.com>
    Subject: Re: ...failure mode
    Bob's scope digital sampling is very slow sampling as usual. The peak inrush current is basically current limited to the power supply and wiring and switcher resistance. He shows one sample at over 30 amps and who knows what the peak current is. HID do have issues with wig wag and below I got info from a pilot who solved it. Your current limiter as you mentioned would limit this way down and produce a great increase in lifetime. However if one uses the H3 bulbs there is one type of HID supply that works well with wig wag while most do not. The H3 is a drop in for most Vans and other wing mountes aircraft. There is also a replacement bulb for the round lights using the same ballast that should work well.. Then you need to use a specific toroid filter on the lines and a no bounce switch contact (solid state). I got the info from a suscessful fligher months ago and the parts are cheep also Like at the time 30 for a system. NOT all hid systems will work wig wag as the supply simply dies soon I can go back and try to find the link if you are interested. I will not post to Bob's list ever!!!! Pardon the smelling but my chkr is off as comp[uter crash and ng backup is back and running but word is the spel checker and its not reinstalled Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 10:27 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Halogen bulbs with wig wag circuitry....failure mode > <emjones@charter.net> > > >> Inrush current beyond the initial cold >> start is not an issue for incandescent lamps. >> The reason I plotted the this data . . . > > > Quite true Bob, however I tried not having a first cycle, but it never > seemed to work. You ALWAYS have a first pulse. > > Also, most timers using a 555 have an initial 1.5X times longer pulse than > the second pulse. I no longer use the 555 for this reason. What I do now > is have a faster r/c oscillator and a divider to get the correct timing. > I'd be glad to share the schematic with interested parties. > > Nice graph of the pulses. > > I'd still bet that many halogen lamps have declined in quality. I've seen > this first-hand. There are many variables in the making of halogen lamps. > > -------- > Eric M. Jones > www.PerihelionDesign.com > 113 Brentwood Drive > Southbridge, MA 01550 > (508) 764-2072 > emjones@charter.net > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351971#351971 > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:08:19 PM PST US
    From: "Paul" <paulm@olypen.com>
    Subject: Re: ...failure mode//sorry posted in error
    ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul" To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:29 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: ...failure mode


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:56:22 PM PST US
    From: MLWynn@aol.com
    Subject: building a batter capacity tester
    I have been following the PC680 thread with great interest. I have a couple for my RV8 that have been sitting around longer than I had meant for them to sit. You know how construction goes. I was going to build the capacity tester from the aeroelectric site: _http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf_ (http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf) This looks pretty straightforward and I assume that I can get all the components from my local Radio Shack. The one thing I am foggy on is the 10 V. Zener diode in the schematic. Never having used these, are they sold by voltage or amperage or what. Specifically, how do I make sure I get the correct component? Thanks, Michael Wynn RV 8 Wiring San Ramon, CA In a message dated 9/11/2011 12:09:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, paulm@olypen.com writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul" <paulm@olypen.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul" To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:29 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: ...failure mode


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:14:43 PM PST US
    From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: building a batter capacity tester
    Pretty much any 10V zener diode will work there. Zeners are sold by voltage since that is their purpose (to control the voltage across their terminals). The other thing that is important is the wattage rating, although in this case the power dissipated by the zener is so low (50mW) that any 10V zener you can buy will work. Dick Tasker MLWynn@aol.com wrote: > I have been following the PC680 thread with great interest. I have a couple for my RV8 that have been sitting around longer than I had meant for them to sit. You know how construction goes. > I was going to build the capacity tester from the aeroelectric site: > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf > This looks pretty straightforward and I assume that I can get all the components from my local Radio Shack. The one thing I am foggy on is the 10 V. Zener diode in the schematic. Never having used > these, are they sold by voltage or amperage or what. Specifically, how do I make sure I get the correct component? > Thanks, > Michael Wynn > RV 8 Wiring > San Ramon, CA > In a message dated 9/11/2011 12:09:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, paulm@olypen.com writes: > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul" To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:29 AM > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: ...failure = Use ilities ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List Contribution Web Site p; > > > * > > > * -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. --




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