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1. 11:36 AM - Re: Headsets Redux-was "Warning - New Bose Line Power Cable (Speedy11@aol.com)
2. 07:57 PM - UMA fuel pressure sender wiring (messydeer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Headsets Redux-was "Warning - New Bose Line Power |
Cable
John,
I concur with all of your comments.
Stan Sutterfield
Long time Bose user
In a message dated 10/5/2011 3:01:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com writes:
Bought 2 pairs of Beyerdynamic HS 800 headsets by 8/31/11 to make it
through the
$200/set trade-in window they offered. Got the BD's and they are a very
nice
German-built headset. In the back of my mind, I figured that I would go
through
the motions of due diligence comparison and probably buy Bose, then return
the BD HS 800's in the 30 day trial period.
I went to a Bose store to compare headsets with the Bose display
simulating cockpit
noise in a single engine piston plane. First, the Bose earcups were not as
generous as the BD cups and were more difficult to get a good seal. I did
manage
to get them on correctly. I felt that the Bose head band was awkward in
using
a multi-segment, pivoting mechanism and it didn't feel secure on my noggin,
and caused doubt about it's ability to stay on if encountering heavy
turbulence
or rapid head movement. The BD uses a traditional spring steel type band,
with slightly more clamp pressure than Bose and felt very secure on my
head.
Inspite of Bose specs claiming lighter weight by an ounce, the BD felt
lighter
when wearing it. The BD earcup seals also seem to seal around my wire
frame sunglasses
more effectively than the Bose.
The actual noise reduction comparison was interesting. When switching back
and
forth between brands with the simulated noise on, the Bose was obviously
quieter...initially.
After doing this a few times, I noticed that when the BD's were
on for about 3-4 seconds, the noise attenuation would increase from the
initial
covering of my ears. BD calls their system Digital Adaptive NR and I
attribute
the attenuation lag to that "adaptive" feature. Once internal earcup
sensors
adapted to the particular frequencies being sensed and subsequently reduced
the sound level, I found the sound of the BD's more natural than the Bose.
The
Bose had less sound, but I found that I prefer a little aural feedback.
The
sound level difference between the two is pretty minor, but detectable and
in
favor of Bose.
To explain what I mean by aural feedback, I can give you the analog of my
choice
in cars. When I was deciding brand and model the last time I bought one, I
chose
one that gave me more road feel at the expense of minor cabin noise. I
found
that driving a car that isolated me from the road, both in feel through the
steering wheel and tomb-like quiet in the cabin, made me slightly nauseous,
and imparted the feeling of a slight lack of control over the car.
Moving on, the BD electrical cording is high quality and about 6' long.
The audio
box is about the same size as Bose but much simpler and BD provides the
various
adapters for music players and cellphones to plug right in to the audio
box.
I confess that I don't use a cell phone much and I hardly think of an
aircraft
cockpit as a concert hall, so having Bluetooth is not much of a selling
point
for me.
After my brief comparison, I'd opt for the BD's even without the
$200/headset trade-in
for my 24 year old DC's. With it, it was a no-brainer.
Thanks to Gerry Van Dyk for turning me on to the BD's
John
Message 2
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| Subject: | UMA fuel pressure sender wiring |
Hello!
I just got a UMA N1EU07G fuel pressure sender. I am mounting this on the firewall,
about 6" away from the MGL RDAC (where the signal wires from all the FWF probes
connect) and about 18" away from the firewall ground. I will split off
the power wire at ~6" from the sender, leaving the other two wires and braid (if
needed) to run until they are 16" away from the sender. At that point, the
signal wire will separate from the ground and shield and connect to the RDAC.
The ground and shield would go the final 2" to the firewall ground.
The easiest thing for me to do is to remove the insulated cover over the braid
(and 3 wires) to the point where the power wire needs to separate. I imagine the
braid will be a bit tight around the wires, so I could cut it off at the point
where the power wire separates and splice a separate ground wire to it. Or
does it need to shield the signal wire for that extra 10"?
Lemme know how this sounds to you.
Cheers,
Dan
--------
Dan
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