Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:24 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 06:40 AM - Incandescent lamps in Wig-Wag systems (OOPS) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:56 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (Sam Marlow)
4. 07:48 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (Jared Yates)
5. 08:40 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:59 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern ()
7. 09:03 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern ()
8. 09:43 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (Jay Hyde)
9. 10:33 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (user9253)
10. 10:34 AM - Re: Z16 voltage concern (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 11:05 AM - Re: Re: Z16 voltage concern ()
12. 01:53 PM - AeroLeds (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 01:53 PM - Canopy Switch (user9253)
14. 04:24 PM - Audio Design (messydeer)
15. 04:47 PM - Re: Audio Design (Michael Welch)
16. 04:52 PM - Re: Audio Design (Michael Welch)
17. 04:57 PM - Re: AeroLeds (James Kilford)
18. 10:04 PM - Re: Audio Design (messydeer)
Message 1
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Subject: | Z16 voltage concern |
At 01:41 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
>Hello Les,
>
>
>The problem comes from the diode between the Main Bus and the
>Endurance bus; the forward voltage drop across this diode leaves you
>with the lower voltage at the Endurance bus. When you put the
>alternate feed on to the Endurance bus you 'boost' boost the voltage
>because there is no diode in the alternate path. If you use a
>Schottkey diode instead of a normal diode between the Main and
>Endurance bus the Endurance bus voltage will be better as the
>forward voltage drop across a Schottkey is less than that of a
>normal diode, but you will always have a slightly lower voltage on
>the Endurance bus.
>
>Jay
My face is red. I should also have asked where you
measured the system voltage. If measured on the e-bus
in normal ops mode, the voltage will be a bit lower than
the main bus . . . which doesn't matter.
Recall that when the alternator is running and carrying
all operating loads, the target voltage for the battery
and main bus is 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This is the nominal
supply necessary to top off your battery after an engine
start.
The e-bus, being fed through the diode WILL be down around
13.5 to 13.8 which is okay. Recall also that while a
battery CHARGES at 14.2 to 14.6, it DELIVERS energy
at 12.5 volts and BELOW . . . when it gets down to 10.5
volts, the battery is used up.
If your e-bus accessories are chosen for their usefulness
as aids to battery-only ops, then they're EXPECTED to
perform over the battery only voltage range of 10.5 to
12.5 volts. Hence a normal e-bus voltage of 13.5 presents no
issues of concern.
If your low voltage warning is built into an accessory
attached to the e-bus, then it needs to trigger at
some level which accommodates the diode drop. 12.8
volts is about right. If it is not user adjustable,
then perhaps it should be disabled and a separate,
standalone, LV warning set for 13.0 volts be driven
from the MAIN bus.
Finally, if push comes to shove, there's no sin in
leaving the e-bus alternate feed switch closed during
normal operations. The diode is there to prevent back-
feeding the main bus should you find it necessary to
revert to battery only operations.
Sorry for the fire-drill.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Incandescent lamps in Wig-Wag systems (OOPS) |
A sharp eyed reader pointed out that I cited the wrong
plot for a close look at inrush on the 55w lamp. The corrected
citation has been substituted in the mini-essay below:
At 10:30 AM 10/26/2011, you wrote:
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
A few weeks ago I was called to task for some
demonstrably sloppy data gathering when we were
discussing inrush limiting on incandescent lamps
used in wig-wag recognition systems. The plot I'd
published at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/Wig_Wag_Currents.jpg
. . . was properly identified as somewhat 'fuzzy' and
not properly supportive of some estimates of the cold
start inrush values. I ran across my little po' boy's
solid state switch yesterday so I drug it to the bench
and set up the following experiment:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/Test_Set-Up_Picture.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/Test_Set-Up_Schematic.jpg
I ran some data plots with a 1 ohm resistor-load in place
of the lamp. Here we observe the expected current flow
plotted at scan speeds that will display 3-4 wig-wag cycles.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/1-OHM_250mS.jpg
Then I zoomed in on an exemplar ON transition . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/1-OHM_50uS.jpg
. . . and we see that the 'probe' connection is a tad
bit over-damped as indicated by the rounding at the upper
corner of the rise.
I then replaced the load resistor with a 55w halogen
head lamp bulb and produced this plot of wig-wag
currents:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/55W%20WIGWAG.jpg
Here we see the effects of lamp temperature on the inrush
and running currents. At turn on, the lamp was cool enough
to produce about a 9A spike. The measured current just
before turn-off was on the order of 5A.
Inrush current from a cold start is determined by total
loop resistance of the wiring, battery source impedance,
and lamp cold resistance. The lamp has a measured cold
resistance of 145 milliohms. If driven by a zero-ohms
source at 12v, the theoretical inrush would be
12/.134 = 83 amps. A slow sweep (1 mS/Div) peek at a
cold start in this test setup yielded the following trace:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/55W_COLD-START_1mS.jpg
Here we see a measured inrush on the order of 42 amps.
This suggests that wiring and battery resistances added
another 140 milliohms or so to the loop resistance.
Zooming in for a closer peek at the cold start . . .
(Corrected image citation)
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/55W_COLD-START_50uS.jpg
we see the same 42A displayed value for peak current.
Further, there is still more rounding of the plot as
compared with the almost purely resistive plot cited
above.
Exploration of lamp behavior during turn-on could not
be conducted with a mechanical switch or relay. Contact
bounce during turn-on would badly contaminate the data.
The solid state switch driven by a function generator
suffers no such shortcomings.
The closer look confirms that my original suppositions
for inrush on the trashy trace were correct. The earlier
plot was made with longer wires than for this experiment
hence we saw a 32A cold start inrush as opposed to 42A
in this case. It also confirms that the dynamics for rate of
rise and peak currents are limited by system wiring
(resistance and inductance) and there were no erroneous
observations limited by oscilloscope sample rates.
This experiment supports my original assertions that
turn-on transitions during wig-wag operations are a small
fraction (about 25%) of the initial cold-start value.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
Just wondered where I could find a Schottkey bridge to bring my voltage
back up close to normal?
Thanks,
Sam
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 01:41 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
>
>> Hello Les,
>>
>>
>>
>> The problem comes from the diode between the Main Bus and the
>> Endurance bus; the forward voltage drop across this diode leaves you
>> with the lower voltage at the Endurance bus. When you put the
>> alternate feed on to the Endurance bus you 'boost' boost the voltage
>> because there is no diode in the alternate path. If you use a
>> Schottkey diode instead of a normal diode between the Main and
>> Endurance bus the Endurance bus voltage will be better as the forward
>> voltage drop across a Schottkey is less than that of a normal diode,
>> but you will always have a slightly lower voltage on the Endurance bus.
>>
>> Jay
>
> My face is red. I should also have asked where you
> measured the system voltage. If measured on the e-bus
> in normal ops mode, the voltage will be a bit lower than
> the main bus . . . which doesn't matter.
>
> Recall that when the alternator is running and carrying
> all operating loads, the target voltage for the battery
> and main bus is 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This is the nominal
> supply necessary to top off your battery after an engine
> start.
>
> The e-bus, being fed through the diode WILL be down around
> 13.5 to 13.8 which is okay. Recall also that while a
> battery CHARGES at 14.2 to 14.6, it DELIVERS energy
> at 12.5 volts and BELOW . . . when it gets down to 10.5
> volts, the battery is used up.
>
> If your e-bus accessories are chosen for their usefulness
> as aids to battery-only ops, then they're EXPECTED to
> perform over the battery only voltage range of 10.5 to
> 12.5 volts. Hence a normal e-bus voltage of 13.5 presents no
> issues of concern.
>
> If your low voltage warning is built into an accessory
> attached to the e-bus, then it needs to trigger at
> some level which accommodates the diode drop. 12.8
> volts is about right. If it is not user adjustable,
> then perhaps it should be disabled and a separate,
> standalone, LV warning set for 13.0 volts be driven
> from the MAIN bus.
>
> Finally, if push comes to shove, there's no sin in
> leaving the e-bus alternate feed switch closed during
> normal operations. The diode is there to prevent back-
> feeding the main bus should you find it necessary to
> revert to battery only operations.
>
> Sorry for the fire-drill.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
Bob sells a nice package on the aeroelectric connection website. I
installed his system and subsequently cooked the diode due to improper
insulation in my mounting, and I was able to find the diode itself
online separately for a few dollars. I would recommend Bob's package
since it has the circuit board and mounting hardware ready to go.
On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 9:53 AM, Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@roadrunner.com> wrote:
> <sam.marlow@roadrunner.com>
>
> Just wondered where I could find a Schottkey bridge to bring my voltage back
> up close to normal?
> Thanks,
> Sam
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> At 01:41 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Les,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The problem comes from the diode between the Main Bus and the Endurance
>>> bus; the forward voltage drop across this diode leaves you with the lower
>>> voltage at the Endurance bus. When you put the alternate feed on to the
>>> Endurance bus you 'boost' boost the voltage because there is no diode in the
>>> alternate path. If you use a Schottkey diode instead of a normal diode
>>> between the Main and Endurance bus the Endurance bus voltage will be better
>>> as the forward voltage drop across a Schottkey is less than that of a normal
>>> diode, but you will always have a slightly lower voltage on the Endurance
>>> bus.
>>>
>>> Jay
>>
>> My face is red. I should also have asked where you
>> measured the system voltage. If measured on the e-bus
>> in normal ops mode, the voltage will be a bit lower than
>> the main bus . . . which doesn't matter.
>>
>> Recall that when the alternator is running and carrying
>> all operating loads, the target voltage for the battery
>> and main bus is 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This is the nominal
>> supply necessary to top off your battery after an engine
>> start.
>>
>> The e-bus, being fed through the diode WILL be down around
>> 13.5 to 13.8 which is okay. Recall also that while a
>> battery CHARGES at 14.2 to 14.6, it DELIVERS energy
>> at 12.5 volts and BELOW . . . when it gets down to 10.5
>> volts, the battery is used up.
>>
>> If your e-bus accessories are chosen for their usefulness
>> as aids to battery-only ops, then they're EXPECTED to
>> perform over the battery only voltage range of 10.5 to
>> 12.5 volts. Hence a normal e-bus voltage of 13.5 presents no
>> issues of concern.
>>
>> If your low voltage warning is built into an accessory
>> attached to the e-bus, then it needs to trigger at
>> some level which accommodates the diode drop. 12.8
>> volts is about right. If it is not user adjustable,
>> then perhaps it should be disabled and a separate,
>> standalone, LV warning set for 13.0 volts be driven
>> from the MAIN bus.
>>
>> Finally, if push comes to shove, there's no sin in
>> leaving the e-bus alternate feed switch closed during
>> normal operations. The diode is there to prevent back-
>> feeding the main bus should you find it necessary to
>> revert to battery only operations.
>>
>> Sorry for the fire-drill.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
At 08:53 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
><sam.marlow@roadrunner.com>
>
>Just wondered where I could find a Schottkey bridge to bring my
>voltage back up close to normal?
>Thanks,
Why are you worried about it? Given the physics of
how the system is designed, 13.5 IS normal.
The standard rectifier bridge will give you a drop
of about .7 volts for a 10A e-bus load. The Schottky
device will drop that to about .5 volts. Not a
great difference.
The acid test is to operate your airplane for a time
with the e-bus alt feed switch open, and then for
a time with it closed. Were it not for a reading on
a display, would you know the difference?
Know that bus isolation diodes are used on large
aircraft. While these are usually 28 volt systems
were the diode drop represents a smaller percentage
of loss . . . the drop is noted, evaluated and found
insignificant to normal operations of devices down-
stream of the diode.
I suggest that such is the case here as well.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
I'm aware of the Schottkey diode board but that's not a bridge. I need two sources
in to feed my aux buss, so no switching is required. I have this setup now,
but it drops the voltage to the 12v range, with the Radio Shack bridge setup.
---- Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
============
Bob sells a nice package on the aeroelectric connection website. I
installed his system and subsequently cooked the diode due to improper
insulation in my mounting, and I was able to find the diode itself
online separately for a few dollars. I would recommend Bob's package
since it has the circuit board and mounting hardware ready to go.
On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 9:53 AM, Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@roadrunner.com> wrote:
> <sam.marlow@roadrunner.com>
>
> Just wondered where I could find a Schottkey bridge to bring my voltage back
> up close to normal?
> Thanks,
> Sam
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> At 01:41 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Les,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The problem comes from the diode between the Main Bus and the Endurance
>>> bus; the forward voltage drop across this diode leaves you with the lower
>>> voltage at the Endurance bus. When you put the alternate feed on to the
>>> Endurance bus you 'boost' boost the voltage because there is no diode in the
>>> alternate path. If you use a Schottkey diode instead of a normal diode
>>> between the Main and Endurance bus the Endurance bus voltage will be better
>>> as the forward voltage drop across a Schottkey is less than that of a normal
>>> diode, but you will always have a slightly lower voltage on the Endurance
>>> bus.
>>>
>>> Jay
>>
>> My face is red. I should also have asked where you
>> measured the system voltage. If measured on the e-bus
>> in normal ops mode, the voltage will be a bit lower than
>> the main bus . . . which doesn't matter.
>>
>> Recall that when the alternator is running and carrying
>> all operating loads, the target voltage for the battery
>> and main bus is 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This is the nominal
>> supply necessary to top off your battery after an engine
>> start.
>>
>> The e-bus, being fed through the diode WILL be down around
>> 13.5 to 13.8 which is okay. Recall also that while a
>> battery CHARGES at 14.2 to 14.6, it DELIVERS energy
>> at 12.5 volts and BELOW . . . when it gets down to 10.5
>> volts, the battery is used up.
>>
>> If your e-bus accessories are chosen for their usefulness
>> as aids to battery-only ops, then they're EXPECTED to
>> perform over the battery only voltage range of 10.5 to
>> 12.5 volts. Hence a normal e-bus voltage of 13.5 presents no
>> issues of concern.
>>
>> If your low voltage warning is built into an accessory
>> attached to the e-bus, then it needs to trigger at
>> some level which accommodates the diode drop. 12.8
>> volts is about right. If it is not user adjustable,
>> then perhaps it should be disabled and a separate,
>> standalone, LV warning set for 13.0 volts be driven
>> from the MAIN bus.
>>
>> Finally, if push comes to shove, there's no sin in
>> leaving the e-bus alternate feed switch closed during
>> normal operations. The diode is there to prevent back-
>> feeding the main bus should you find it necessary to
>> revert to battery only operations.
>>
>> Sorry for the fire-drill.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
Your right Bob, I just wanted see normal, or as close to normal, as possible. It's
a good dignastic tool. Is it possible to construct my own bridge using Schottkey
diode's, or is that silly?
---- "Robert L. Nuckolls wrote:
============
At 08:53 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
><sam.marlow@roadrunner.com>
>
>Just wondered where I could find a Schottkey bridge to bring my
>voltage back up close to normal?
>Thanks,
Why are you worried about it? Given the physics of
how the system is designed, 13.5 IS normal.
The standard rectifier bridge will give you a drop
of about .7 volts for a 10A e-bus load. The Schottky
device will drop that to about .5 volts. Not a
great difference.
The acid test is to operate your airplane for a time
with the e-bus alt feed switch open, and then for
a time with it closed. Were it not for a reading on
a display, would you know the difference?
Know that bus isolation diodes are used on large
aircraft. While these are usually 28 volt systems
were the diode drop represents a smaller percentage
of loss . . . the drop is noted, evaluated and found
insignificant to normal operations of devices down-
stream of the diode.
I suggest that such is the case here as well.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Z16 voltage concern |
I could tell you where to find it in South Africa! :-)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
HH Enterprises
Aircraft assembly, repair, wiring and avionics
Flight instruction
General and Electrical Engineering services
(NHD Elec Eng, BTech Elec Eng, GDE ELec Eng)
Great dinner parties and conversation
General adventuring, climbing, kayaking and living
Blog: www.rawhyde.wordpress.com
Cel: 083300 8675
Email: jay@horriblehyde.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: 27 October 2011 03:53 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z16 voltage concern
<sam.marlow@roadrunner.com>
Just wondered where I could find a Schottkey bridge to bring my voltage
back up close to normal?
Thanks,
Sam
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 01:41 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
>
>> Hello Les,
>>
>>
>>
>> The problem comes from the diode between the Main Bus and the
>> Endurance bus; the forward voltage drop across this diode leaves you
>> with the lower voltage at the Endurance bus. When you put the
>> alternate feed on to the Endurance bus you 'boost' boost the voltage
>> because there is no diode in the alternate path. If you use a
>> Schottkey diode instead of a normal diode between the Main and
>> Endurance bus the Endurance bus voltage will be better as the forward
>> voltage drop across a Schottkey is less than that of a normal diode,
>> but you will always have a slightly lower voltage on the Endurance bus.
>>
>> Jay
>
> My face is red. I should also have asked where you
> measured the system voltage. If measured on the e-bus
> in normal ops mode, the voltage will be a bit lower than
> the main bus . . . which doesn't matter.
>
> Recall that when the alternator is running and carrying
> all operating loads, the target voltage for the battery
> and main bus is 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This is the nominal
> supply necessary to top off your battery after an engine
> start.
>
> The e-bus, being fed through the diode WILL be down around
> 13.5 to 13.8 which is okay. Recall also that while a
> battery CHARGES at 14.2 to 14.6, it DELIVERS energy
> at 12.5 volts and BELOW . . . when it gets down to 10.5
> volts, the battery is used up.
>
> If your e-bus accessories are chosen for their usefulness
> as aids to battery-only ops, then they're EXPECTED to
> perform over the battery only voltage range of 10.5 to
> 12.5 volts. Hence a normal e-bus voltage of 13.5 presents no
> issues of concern.
>
> If your low voltage warning is built into an accessory
> attached to the e-bus, then it needs to trigger at
> some level which accommodates the diode drop. 12.8
> volts is about right. If it is not user adjustable,
> then perhaps it should be disabled and a separate,
> standalone, LV warning set for 13.0 volts be driven
> from the MAIN bus.
>
> Finally, if push comes to shove, there's no sin in
> leaving the e-bus alternate feed switch closed during
> normal operations. The diode is there to prevent back-
> feeding the main bus should you find it necessary to
> revert to battery only operations.
>
> Sorry for the fire-drill.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
> Is it possible to construct my own bridge using Schottkey diode's, or is that
silly?
The advantage of using a diode bridge with mounting hole in the center is its mechanical
robustness. Two discrete diodes will function electrically just as
well, as long as they are mounted securely for mechanical strength and heat dissipation.
If it is desired to boost the voltage output from the Rotax regulator from 13.5
to 14, a Schottky diode could be put in series with the wire going to the regulator
"C" terminal (arrow pointing towards the regulator). I have not actually
done that but it should work.
My Rotax voltage regulator puts out 13.6 volts. That might not be enough to
top off a discharged battery, but the engine starts so quickly that it does not
get run down much. I connect a battery maintainer when not flying. Everything
works fine so I have not tried to boost the regulator voltage.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=356109#356109
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
At 11:00 AM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
>
>Your right Bob, I just wanted see normal, or as close to normal, as
>possible. It's a good dignastic tool. Is it possible to construct my
>own bridge using Schottkey diode's, or is that silly?
Not at all. I selected the single hole, potted 'brick'
of plastic with 4 diodes for it's simplicity of mounting,
no insulation needed, and fast-on tabs. In most applications
we used only one of the four diodes . . . the other three
were not 'in the way' of successful exploitation of other
features for the device.
If you only need one diode, then there's a host of
offerings from the electronics suppliers. There are
a number of dual Shottky devices that feature two
diodes in the single package. Here's one example:
http://tinyurl.com/4x87a6s
This particular device does need to be insulated
from its heat-sinking surface like so . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9001
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Z16 voltage concern |
Thanks!
---- user9253 <fran4sew@banyanol.com> wrote:
============
> Is it possible to construct my own bridge using Schottkey diode's, or is that
silly?
The advantage of using a diode bridge with mounting hole in the center is its mechanical
robustness. Two discrete diodes will function electrically just as
well, as long as they are mounted securely for mechanical strength and heat dissipation.
If it is desired to boost the voltage output from the Rotax regulator from 13.5
to 14, a Schottky diode could be put in series with the wire going to the regulator
"C" terminal (arrow pointing towards the regulator). I have not actually
done that but it should work.
My Rotax voltage regulator puts out 13.6 volts. That might not be enough to
top off a discharged battery, but the engine starts so quickly that it does not
get run down much. I connect a battery maintainer when not flying. Everything
works fine so I have not tried to boost the regulator voltage.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=356109#356109
Message 12
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A few weeks ago there was some discussion on the List about
noises from some AeroLed products. I cruised their website and
promised to inquire into the marketing philosophy for their
lighting products.
I had some good conversation with one of the principals,
a Mr. Nate Calvin. These guys are not the new kids on the
block. They've delivered product to some very sophisticated
customers who would demand careful scrutiny of mechanical
and electrical characteristics. Nate tells me that all
their product meets or exceeds DO-160 requirements for
conducted noise in small aircraft.
I'll remind readers that passing all the tests does not
mean ZERO noise emissions . . . only that they are below
the industry approved limits for this an all other electronics
offered to the type certificated aircraft market.
He recalled one case where an observed noise problem
turned out to be a design problem with an intercom
that was not fully vetted for living in the DO-160
world of light aircraft.
Bottom line is that AeroLed products are very low
risk for contributing to a noise issue. When they
are identified as an observable noise source, the
investigator should consider poor design of the victim
system and/or some form of installation error first.
Bob . . .
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A canopy-open indicator light does not help much to remind the pilot to latch the
canopy. The pilot will become accustomed to seeing that light on while she
taxies, trying to keep cool with the canopy open. What is needed is an audio
and visual alarm that ONLY activates if the canopy is not latched for takeoff.
I thought about using a microprocessor but am not proficient at programming.
Then I found this LM2907 "RPM Speed Switch". Although it requires a few resistors
and capacitors, all of the active components are contained in one 8-pin
IC.
Here is a proposed circuit: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fI7pwRbufgI/Tqm5F18UY5I/AAAAAAAAAcw/QWs0GHx4q1I/s800/Canopy%252520Alarm.gif
And here is the datasheet for the LM2907: http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2907.pdf
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
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Hi!
I haven't yet bought any communication devices for my Sonex. I plan to get a COM
radio, intercom, a couple headsets, and a couple PTT switches. I've got an MGL
Enigma EFIS that can transmit audio warnings that I'd like to wire into the
system. I'd also like to wire in an external audio device, like my cell phone
which has an MP3 player and maybe an AM/FM radio or tablet computer. I think
I'll pass on the DVD player.
My goal is to get something that's dependable and affordable with an eye towards
upgrading. Suggestions on what to get and how to wire these guys would be helpful.
Thanks :-)
--------
Dan
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Subject: | Re: Audio Design |
Dan,
I sure do like Icom products! An Icom IC210 would make a great com radio(or
even an IC200). It's super easy to hard-wire an intercom to,
which is what I did, or if I'm not mistaken, the IC210 may even have a built-in
intercom (2 place).
I needed the rubber "knob condoms" on my older IC200, (they dried out and cracked
off) and when I told the parts
guy what I needed he just sent them to me for FREE!!! They even paid for the shipping.
I like Icom.
Mike Welch
> Suggestions on what to get and how to wire these guys would be helpful.
>
> Thanks :-)
>
> --------
> Dan
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Subject: | Re: Audio Design |
Dan,
Like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Avionics-Icom-ICA210-IC-A210-VHF-Communication-Radio-/330614367526?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfa26e526#ht_500wt_754
I see I messed up the model #. It was supposed to be IC "A"210. It's been
many months since I was working with the radios.
Mike
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Interesting stuff there Bob.
On 27 October 2011 21:47, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com**>
>
> A few weeks ago there was some discussion on the List about
> noises from some AeroLed products. I cruised their website and
> promised to inquire into the marketing philosophy for their
> lighting products.
>
> I had some good conversation with one of the principals,
> a Mr. Nate Calvin. These guys are not the new kids on the
> block. They've delivered product to some very sophisticated
> customers who would demand careful scrutiny of mechanical
> and electrical characteristics. Nate tells me that all
> their product meets or exceeds DO-160 requirements for
> conducted noise in small aircraft.
>
> I'll remind readers that passing all the tests does not
> mean ZERO noise emissions . . . only that they are below
> the industry approved limits for this an all other electronics
> offered to the type certificated aircraft market.
>
> He recalled one case where an observed noise problem
> turned out to be a design problem with an intercom
> that was not fully vetted for living in the DO-160
> world of light aircraft.
>
> Bottom line is that AeroLed products are very low
> risk for contributing to a noise issue. When they
> are identified as an observable noise source, the
> investigator should consider poor design of the victim
> system and/or some form of installation error first.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Audio Design |
Thanks, Mike.
I've heard ICOM makes quality stuff. But it's a bit big, both in price and size.
I just realized MGL has an intercom in their V10 radio. They're also releasing
soon their newer version, the V6. Reports say these intercoms actually work
well, as opposed to earlier combo units of a different technology from other
manufacturers. They'll be around $1000.
If I go this route, it also simplifies things. Just connect the wires according
to their diagrams. I got a little experience making a Dsub harness a few months
ago, so I should be set.
--------
Dan
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