AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 10/28/11


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:19 AM - Re: Re: Audio Design (Doug Ilg)
     2. 06:40 AM - Re: Canopy Switch (Jeff Page)
     3. 07:34 AM - Re: Audio Design (messydeer)
     4. 08:50 AM - Re: Re: Audio Design (Jerry)
     5. 08:51 AM - microphone and headset jack insulating washers (messydeer)
     6. 09:39 AM - Re: microphone and headset jack insulating washers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 09:39 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 10:06 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Switch (Michael Welch)
     9. 11:47 AM - Re: Canopy Switch (user9253)
    10. 01:16 PM - Re: microphone and headset jack insulating washers (messydeer)
    11. 01:23 PM - Re: Re: Canopy Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 02:36 PM - ZTRON LABS ZL-BP4/8 ()
    13. 04:57 PM - Fw: new stuff (F. Tim Yoder)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:19:11 AM PST US
    From: Doug Ilg <doug.ilg@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Audio Design
    Dan,=0A=0AI was going to suggest sticking with MGL, but it looks like you'v e already "seen the light."=0A=0A=0APersonally, I'd go with the V6.- It's smaller than the V10 (2.25" vs. 3.125") and has more options, with remote head and such.- Either one will let you tune the radio from the EFIS, but I believe that the V6 allows even more control, using MGL's proprietary pr otocol (rather than SL30 or SL40 protocols).- The trick there may be in h ow to get the Enigma, with it's limited interface (screen size, number of b uttons, and lack of knobs), to properly drive a complete radio.=0A=0A=0AUnf ortunately, I already have a V10 and a 3.125" hole shoehorned into my panel for it.=0A=0AKeep in mind that MGL is about to release a transponder, if y ou are planning to install one of those.- Also, they sell harnesses for e ach of their units.- I think the V10-to-Enigma harness cost me $165.- T hey're made by FasTrack (sp?) and appear to be good quality - certainly far better than anything I could do, myself.- As a bonus, the ready-made har nesses will allow you to hear all the audible warnings produced by your EFI S.=0A=0AGood luck!=0A=0A-=0ADoug Ilg=0AGrumman Tiger N74818, College Park -Airport (KCGS), Maryland=0AChallenger II LSS LW (N641LG-reserved)-- kit underway at Laurel Suburban (W18)=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0A=0A>________________ ________________=0A>From: messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com>=0A>=0A>--> AeroEl ectric-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>=0A>=0A>Tha nks, Mike.=0A>=0A>I've heard ICOM makes quality stuff. But it's a bit big, both in price and size. I just realized MGL has an intercom in their V10 ra dio. They're also releasing soon their newer version, the V6. Reports say t hese intercoms actually work well, as opposed to earlier combo units of a d ifferent technology from other manufacturers. They'll be around $1000.=0A> =0A>If I go this route, it also simplifies things. Just connect the wires a ccording to their diagrams. I got a little experience making a Dsub harness a few months ago, so I should be set.=0A>=0A>


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:40:43 AM PST US
    From: Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Switch
    Joe, This looks like a good circuit, to minimize an important risk. My concern is the connection between the circuit and the canopy latch switch. Perhaps that would be subject to external influences ? Bob, could you comment ? What might be the best change to make this DO-160 compliant ? Jeff Page Dream Aircraft Tundra #10 > Subject: Canopy Switch From: "user9253" <fran4sew@banyanol.com> > A canopy-open indicator light does not help much to remind > the pilot to latch > the canopy. The pilot will become accustomed to seeing that light on while > she taxies, trying to keep cool with the canopy open. What is needed is an > audio and visual alarm that ONLY activates if the canopy is not latched for > takeoff. > I thought about using a microprocessor but am not proficient at programming. > Then I found this LM2907 "RPM Speed Switch". Although it requires a few > resistors and capacitors, all of the active components are contained in one > 8-pin IC. Here is a proposed circuit: > https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fI7pwRbufgI/Tqm5F18UY5I/AAAAAAAAAcw/QWs0GHx4q1I/s800/Canopy%252520Alarm.gif > And here is the datasheet for the LM2907: > http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2907.pdf > > Joe Gores


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:34:09 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Audio Design
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Thanks, Doug :-) Radio Here's what the V6 shows as being different from the V10, copied from their feature list: Stereo music input with automatic fade down on intercom activity. Two auxilary audio inputs, mono, for mobile phone and EFIS annunciator V6 frequency list editor: (Windows, any 32 bit version) This small program allows you to download and upload frequency lists to and from the V6 tranceiver. You can edit these lists and maintain several different lists if you like. V10 is mono, although its manual mentions stereo. I read one of Rainer's posts on VAF saying it's mono, which makes sense if I read their pinouts correctly. V10 is on the left, V6 on the right below. If the only difference between the units are the few extra features listed and its size, I may look at getting a used V10 from someone upgrading. I'd have space for either. Transponder The transponder development is only now starting in ernest (pretty much a paper project up to now with the exception of some hardware we showed at Oshkosh). We had to get the V6 radio out of the way first - and that has now been done. Above is a quote from Rainier 2 days ago. I also read they're looking at $1300, but would like to get it lower. I have an old TDR-950 transponder that I bought several months ago for ~$300 and have made up a harness to connect to my Enigma. For the price difference, I'll prolly stick with my used unit. I don't need a transponder to fly locally, so I may wait to install it at a later point, which would also allow me time to come up with money for the T6.[/b] -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=356180#356180 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/v6_and_v10_pin_outs_537.png


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:50:09 AM PST US
    From: Jerry <jlatimer1@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Audio Design
    FWIW, I just installed a Flightline FL-760 and am very happy with it. I replaced a Microair that was giving me problems. The FL-760 has an integrated VOX intercom and an auxiliary input. Jerry


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:51:15 AM PST US
    Subject: microphone and headset jack insulating washers
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    I just drilled a 3/8" hole for my headset jack in my aluminum panel of my aluminum airframe. The threaded barrel fits through just fine. I then grabbed the pair of insulating washers I'd gotten from B and C. The shoulder washer has an ID of ~3/8", so it slips over the jack just fine. Then I realized that to insulate the jack from the airframe, the hole looks like it needs to be 1/2" for the shoulder part of the washer to fit through the hole. I thought I'd read that only a 3/8" hole is required. But if that's the case, there's no room for a washer and the outside of the jack would touch the metal, grounding it to the airframe. I also read that some folks have not bothered with isolating washers and there hasn't been any problems with ground loops. So if I'm going to use the insulating washers I'll have to see if I've now got enough room for 1/2" holes and drill to that size. -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=356187#356187


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:39:32 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: microphone and headset jack insulating washers
    At 10:48 AM 10/28/2011, you wrote: > >I just drilled a 3/8" hole for my headset jack in my aluminum panel >of my aluminum airframe. The threaded barrel fits through just fine. >I then grabbed the pair of insulating washers I'd gotten from B and >C. The shoulder washer has an ID of ~3/8", so it slips over the jack >just fine. Then I realized that to insulate the jack from the >airframe, the hole looks like it needs to be 1/2" for the shoulder >part of the washer to fit through the hole. Yep . . . that's how they work. >I thought I'd read that only a 3/8" hole is required. But if that's >the case, there's no room for a washer and the outside of the jack >would touch the metal, grounding it to the airframe. > >I also read that some folks have not bothered with isolating washers >and there hasn't been any problems with ground loops. Your choice. The risks are low but not zero. Good craftsmanship calls for the washers but tens of thousands of Cessnas were built with the jacks grounded to the airframe. Of course, nobody has documented how many of those airplanes suffered some form of ground loop noise that was either inaudible over cabin noise or simply accepted by the owner operator as "the way things are". You can leave them off and conduct your own experiment. >So if I'm going to use the insulating washers I'll have to see if >I've now got enough room for 1/2" holes and drill to that size. Are your clearances that tight? The O.D. on the washers is something like 3/4". If you can use the washers without trimming their edges for clearance, then you probably have edge margins for a 1/2" hole . . . Bob . . .


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:39:32 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Switch
    At 08:36 AM 10/28/2011, you wrote: Joe, This looks like a good circuit, to minimize an important risk. My concern is the connection between the circuit and the canopy latch switch. Perhaps that would be subject to external influences ? Bob, could you comment ? What might be the best change to make this DO-160 compliant ? An astute observation my friend. Let me noodle on this a bit . . . Bob . . .


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:06:57 AM PST US
    From: Michael Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Switch
    Jeff, Bob N, Joe, everyone else, If someone isn't crazy about the mechanical "open/closed switch" in the circuit, would it be a better (as in more robust) idea to have an optical switch? A simple tab on the canopy, properly positioned, could open/close an optical switch as needed. Just wondering....... Mike Welch On Oct 28, 2011, at 11:24 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > At 08:36 AM 10/28/2011, you wrote: > > Joe, > > This looks like a good circuit, to minimize an important risk. > > My concern is the connection between the circuit and the canopy latch > switch. Perhaps that would be subject to external influences ? > > Bob, could you comment ? What might be the best change to make this > DO-160 compliant ? > > An astute observation my friend. Let > me noodle on this a bit . . . > > > Bob . . . > > > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:47:03 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Canopy Switch
    From: "user9253" <fran4sew@banyanol.com>
    Perhaps it would be better to connect the canopy switch to pin 7. I think the output will be disabled when pin 7 in grounded. Is that correct? To Mike W., most any type of switch can be used. The switch is less likely to fail than the pilot's memory. :-) Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=356207#356207


    Message 10


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    Time: 01:16:50 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: microphone and headset jack insulating washers
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Thanks, Bob :-) Looks like I'll have the space and will drill them out to 1/2". -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=356212#356212


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:23:41 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Switch
    At 12:00 PM 10/28/2011, you wrote: ><mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com> > >Jeff, Bob N, Joe, everyone else, > > If someone isn't crazy about the mechanical "open/closed switch" > in the circuit, would it >be a better (as in more robust) idea to have an optical switch? A >simple tab on the canopy, >properly positioned, could open/close an optical switch as needed. > > Just wondering....... Another option is a reed-switch operated by a magnet. Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:36:28 PM PST US
    From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: ZTRON LABS ZL-BP4/8
    10/28/2011 Hello Bob Nuckolls, I am interested in your reaction to this product: http://www.ztronlabs.com/products/bp8/brochure.pdf Thank you, 'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to gather and understand knowledge."


    Message 13


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    Time: 04:57:18 PM PST US
    From: "F. Tim Yoder" <ftyoder@yoderbuilt.com>
    Subject: Fw: new stuff
    Has anyone looked into these? Could they achieve a gas tight connection? ----- Original Message ----- From: Curt Browning Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 9:27 PM Subject: new stuff Unless Im the only one that has been livin in a lead cave recently there's some new and easier connectors out there..... What ?!?!?? No $100 pliers required???? http://www.posi-lock.com/index.html -- Curt Browning




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