Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:31 AM - Re: d-sub uses sliding lock retainer / screw (Glen Matejcek)
2. 07:36 AM - Re: was antenna connections, now location (Glen Matejcek)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:03 PM - Fuel (boost) pump (Dan Sherburn)
5. 09:41 PM - Re: Fuel (boost) pump (Tim Andres)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: d-sub uses sliding lock retainer / screw |
That also sounds very much like what my Becker's use.
>Time: 07:22:47 AM PST US
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Navworx... d-sub uses sliding lock retainer / screw
>lock
>From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
>
>If you're using Navworx ADS600B, you should note that the DB37 comes with an unusual
>connector arrangement consisting of posts and sliding lock retainer (see
>page 15 of attached pdf). I have never seen one of these before and was stumped
>on how exactly to get it attached. Note that the screws on the plug have tiny
>ridges that lock onto the retainer. The posts are mounted on the box. It's
>all very obvious once you see it work, but not so much when you're handed a pile
>of parts.
>
>Cheers,
>Jay
>
Glen Matejcek
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: was antenna connections, now location |
IIRC, which is always subject to a certain amount of doubt, engine oil and exhaust
crud can have a deleterious effect on xpdr antenna performance. As such,
placing the antenna to minimize such exposure might be a good thing.
>I'll be mounting both xpdr and com antennas on the bottom. I could get 36" between
>them without a problem.
Glen Matejcek
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
At 01:09 AM 11/12/2011, you wrote:
>
>Thanks :-)
>
>I'll be mounting both xpdr and com antennas on the bottom. I could
>get 36" between them without a problem.
That will be plenty . . .
>I looked over silver soldering. Had thought that was an old saying
>for 'soldering'.
Soldering is a generic term for joining two metals (which
may be alloys) with a dissimilar third metal (which can
also be an alloy).
Welding is the jointing of the first two metals
by melting a similar metal into the surface of the two.
Soldering DISSOLVES a molecular layer of the two bases
into a fluid third without actually melting the bases.
Brazing is a form of soldering. We commonly
think of "solder" as being that legacy tin/lead stuff
for wiring, copper roofing and stained glass windows.
There are in fact an infinite number of solders tailored
by alloy and flux to achieve a useful melting point, ability
to 'wet' the base metals and structural strength.
Legacy tin/lead won't wet stainless and is too soft. Some
common silver solders contain phosphorous (Sil-Fos)
and I think should be limited to copper/brass fittings
like in refrigerators. The other silver alloys are fine
but can have widely different flow-temperatures. A local
weld shop probably has some choices and data that
gives the melting points.
> Another option would be to get a SS whip antenna, like this from
> Radio Shack:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId!02428&CAWELAID7599032
> It's 102" but has a 3/8-24 fitting. Cutting it down would be no
> problem, but putting a 45 bend could be. I assume this would be a
> tube that could kink.
No, it's a solid rod. Good idea actually. I may
update my article to include this option. You can
cut it to length by grinding a 'break notch' all
the way around the rod . . . then round it off for
safety. Save the remaining cut-off. That can be
used to build more antennas where silver soldering
is not a prohibition. In fact, the tip end of the
antenna has the 'safety ball' on it . . . this would
become prime antenna stock. Just tailor the hole in
the base-bolt to be a few thousandths of an inch
oversized to allow silver solder to flow into the
hole and around the base of the antenna rod.
To bend, heat the bend location with your torch
to at least dull red and then pull around a radius
held in your vise . . . a piece of pipe or some such.
Don't bend too far. You can always bend more but it's
a real bear to 'unbend'.
The area heated will be tarnished after you finish
the bend but it can be polished up again with some
fine sandpaper.
>ACS has one for about $20, but I thought I read someone say it
>didn't have the standard fitting, which seems odd. I'll have to
>check with them.
Don't know what a 'standard' fitting would be but
the Radio Shack part is about the same price
and you can probably pick it up locally. Better
yet, it provides enough material for at
least 3 comm antennas.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuel (boost) pump |
I'm putting together an electrical load analysis spreadsheet and can
find most continuous and intermittent electrical loads for the devices
I've selected. I'm building a Zenith CH750 that will be simple day VFR.
I do know, however, I'll be using a fuel boost pump and I'm finding I'm
not sure how to pick one out. What are folks typically using as fuel
boost pumps? This will allow me to research the elelctrical load
requirements.
Also, I'm assuming about 600ma cont. load from my "master" solenoid and
about 4a intermittent from my starter solenoid load. Does that sound
about right?
Thanks in advance,
Dan Sherburn
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel (boost) pump |
What engine/ fuel system are you boosting?
Tim
________________________________
From: Dan Sherburn <dsherburn@att.net>
Sent: Sat, November 12, 2011 6:59:48 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuel (boost) pump
I'm putting together an electrical load analysis spreadsheet and can find most
continuous and intermittent electrical loads for the devices I've selected. I'm
building a Zenith CH750 that will be simple day VFR. I do know, however, I'll
be using a fuel boost pump and I'm finding I'm not sure how to pick one out.
What are folks typically using as fuel boost pumps? This will allow me to
research the elelctrical load requirements.
Also, I'm assuming about 600ma cont. load from my "master" solenoid and about
4a intermittent from my starter solenoid load. Does that sound about right?
Thanks in advance,
Dan Sherburn
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