Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:20 AM - What's Your Contribution Used For? (Matt Dralle)
1. 07:42 AM - Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders (BobsV35B@aol.com)
2. 08:05 AM - B & C ?? (tomcostanza)
3. 08:27 AM - Re: B & C ?? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:36 AM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 08:37 AM - Re: What's Your Contribution Used For? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:45 AM - Re: B & C ?? (James Kilford)
7. 09:08 AM - Re: B & C ?? (Dale Ellis)
8. 09:28 AM - Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders (Ralph & Maria Finch)
9. 09:55 AM - Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders (BobsV35B@aol.com)
10. 10:02 AM - Re: B & C ?? (Christopher SeeStone)
11. 10:38 AM - Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders (Ralph Finch)
12. 10:58 AM - Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders (BobsV35B@aol.com)
13. 11:25 AM - Alternator & starter (James Kilford)
14. 11:59 AM - Re: Alternator & starter (Charlie England)
15. 02:42 PM - Re: Alternator & starter (Robert Borger)
16. 03:17 PM - Jabiru 3300 Over Voltage (zqqmin)
17. 04:40 PM - Re: Alternator & starter (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
18. 05:44 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Over Voltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 09:47 PM - PTT shield connections (messydeer)
20. 10:23 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Over Voltage (David)
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| Subject: | What's Your Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
You might have wondered at some pointd, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here
are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides
for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List.
It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest
performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine,
List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for over 21 years (yeah, I really
said *21* years) worth of on line archive data available for instant search
and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining
the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List
Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses.
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these aspects of Matronics List services.
Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the
best investments you can make in your Sport!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders |
Good Morning Dave,
It might be more accurate to say: "FAR 91.215 tells you where you have to
have a transponder."
The vast majority of the air space within the USA and below ten thousand
feet MSL does NOT require a transponder to be installed.
As Always, It All Depends!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 11/15/2011 1:05:23 A.M. Central Standard Time,
dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com writes:
FAR 91.215 says you have to have a transponder. Maybe that will change
some day, but they've got a few years.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 9:57 PM, Ralph Finch <_ralphmariafinch@gmail.com_
(mailto:ralphmariafinch@gmail.com) > wrote:
Assume I want ADS-B In and Out capability. In a new build--no legacy
equipment--can I install ONLY a UAT on 978 MHz? or do I still need to also
install at least a Mode-C transponder (1090 MHz)?
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ist"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Message 2
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Does anyone know what's going on with the B&C website?
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358014#358014
Message 3
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At 10:02 AM 11/15/2011, you wrote:
><Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
>
>Does anyone know what's going on with the B&C website?
Looks okay to me. What have you observed that prompts
a question?
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
At 11:08 PM 11/14/2011, you wrote:
>
>K.
>
>Got the RS antenna. My only initial anal concern was the weight at
>.20" diameter at the 22" mark. It tapered down to less than 1/8",
>but that was near the end of the original 120". I've seen some com
>antennas listed as 0.15" thick, so I gained 1.5 oz.
Yup, that's called sifting through the options and
evaluating the trade-offs. But it IS a robust antenna.
This brings up another point. That antenna is not
very compliant . . . I.e. it's stiff. Make sure you've
got a robust doubler on the belly surface.
>I bent it at ~8" to about 40 degrees after heating it with a
>propane/air torch. Used a little $10 HF tubing bender. It wanted to
>also put another bend real close to the base, but the bender config
>would have made that real tough, so I increased the bend to 68
>degrees at the original location.
Sounds like a reasonable trade off . . .
>I ran a scotchbrite roloc over it to get the discoloration out,
>which was fairly easy to do. Will this area be as stain resistant as
>the other areas? When I got my EGT probes, the bayonets were welded
>to hose clamps. Around the welded area there was rust.
Heating a material to a ductile state does not change
it's alloy. If it was 'stainless' to begin with, it's
still stainless.
>Clearance under my Sonex TD is ~19" at the planned location of the
>antenna. Vertical for the antenna is ~13", giving me 6" ground
>clearance. I also just bought that base connector off eBay.
>
>This has been the type of project I really like. Doing something
>simple and saving money. $22 for the antenna, $5 for the mount, $2
>for the BNC-UHF adapter at Frys. That compares to over $65 just for
>the antenna at ACS, which still needs more bending to go on the
>belly. Thanks, Bob!
Pleased that you've been able to adapt the simple-ideas
for one recipe and craft one of your own. You could
take the scraps of antenna left over and craft two
more to offer to others here on the list. By the time
you've made the third one, you'll be way down on the
learning curve and more of an authority on that idea
than I am, I've only made the one you see in the article.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: What's Your Contribution Used For? |
At 02:13 AM 11/15/2011, you wrote:
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>You might have wondered at some pointd, "What's my Contribution used for?"
> Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables...
>It provides for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on
> the List. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades e
>nabling the highest performance possible for List services such as the Arch
>ive Search Engine, List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for over 21 y
>ears (yeah, I really said *21* years) worth of on line archive data availab
>le for instant search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent wri
>ting, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this L
>ist Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki.
>
>But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and
>your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moder
>ation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses.
Matt . . . some time ago we had some pictures of your
hardware racks but I've misplaced them. Could you send
me some shots of the facility to give us some sense
of size? I'll combine those pictures into a little
monograph to keep posted on aeroelectric.com.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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It's okay from this side of the pond. I've not been there for a
while, and the new version is great, especially the new "Quick Facts"
PDFs.
Cheers,
James
On 15 November 2011 16:24, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 10:02 AM 11/15/2011, you wrote:
>>
>> <Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
>>
>> Does anyone know what's going on with the B&C website?
>
> Looks okay to me. What have you observed that prompts
> a question?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 7
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http://www.bandc.biz/index.aspx site seems to be working for me.
Dale
do not archive
On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 11:02 AM, tomcostanza
<Tom@costanzaandassociates.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know what's going on with the B&C website?
>
> --------
> Clear Skies,
> Tom Costanza
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358014#358014
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders |
@Old Bob: true enough.I should have phrased my question:
Assume I want ADS-B In and Out capability AND want to fly in Class C and D
airspace. In a new build--no legacy equipment--can I install ONLY a UAT on
978 MHz? or do I still need to also install at least a Mode-C transponder
(1090 MHz)?
Then I think the answer is, I need a Mode-C transponder and UAT; or, Mode-S
transponder, and ADS-B receiver.
Correct?
RF
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobsV35B@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders
Good Morning Dave,
It might be more accurate to say: "FAR 91.215 tells you where you have to
have a transponder."
The vast majority of the air space within the USA and below ten thousand
feet MSL does NOT require a transponder to be installed.
As Always, It All Depends!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 11/15/2011 1:05:23 A.M. Central Standard Time,
dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com writes:
FAR 91.215 says you have to have a transponder. Maybe that will change some
day, but they've got a few years.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 9:57 PM, Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch@gmail.com>
wrote:
Assume I want ADS-B In and Out capability. In a new build--no legacy
equipment--can I install ONLY a UAT on 978 MHz? or do I still need to also
install at least a Mode-C transponder (1090 MHz)?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders |
Good Afternoon RF,
That one is beyond my sphere of knowledge, though I THINK you are correct.
I have not studied the requirements for the UAT or ADS-B in or out.
As an aside, I know I will install nothing in my airplane that is not
required to be installed by current regulations. If I could get by with it,
I
would NOT install an ELT of either type nor a transponder of any sort.
My experience has been that by the time mandatory devices are required to
be installed, they generally have substantially reduced prices and contain
better and more reliable components.
The very first 64 code transponders were over 14 thousand bucks. And that
was back when you could buy a Bonanza for about the same price.
After the airlines and corporate airplanes bought those, Wilcox came out
with one for only 7 grand. By the time we little guys were forced to instal
l
them if we wanted to fly IFR in busy airspace, they were up to over one
thousand codes and priced under a thousand bucks. Plus, they were smaller
,
lighter, and used less power.
I think it pays to wait.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 11/15/2011 11:29:45 A.M. Central Standard Time,
ralphmariafinch@gmail.com writes:
@Old Bob: true enoughI should have phrased my question:
Assume I want ADS-B In and Out capability AND want to fly in Class C and D
airspace. In a new build--no legacy equipment--can I install ONLY a UAT on
978 MHz? or do I still need to also install at least a Mode-C transponder
(1090 MHz)?
Then I think the answer is, I need a Mode-C transponder and UAT; or,
Mode-S transponder, and ADS-B receiver.
Correct?
RF
Message 10
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Tom...
Seems to be working fine.
http://www.bandc.biz/index.aspx
Chris Stone
RV-8s in OR
>
> Does anyone know what's going on with the B&C website?
>
> --------
> Clear Skies,
> Tom Costanza
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358014#358014
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders |
Very true Old Bob! I too will wait until the latest possible moment to buy
and install the goodies. But, I am installing antennas now, while the
fuselage is easy to get at, and am anticipating what antennas might be
needed. I've decided to put in both a 1090 MHz transponder antenna and a
978 MHz UAT antenna; if I'm wrong, little time and money lost. Thanks for
your input.
RF
On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 9:52 AM, <BobsV35B@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> Good Afternoon RF,
>
> That one is beyond my sphere of knowledge, though I THINK you are correct.
> I have not studied the requirements for the UAT or ADS-B in or out.
>
> As an aside, I know I will install nothing in my airplane that is not
> required to be installed by current regulations. If I could get by with it,
> I would NOT install an ELT of either type nor a transponder of any sort.
>
> My experience has been that by the time mandatory devices are required to
> be installed, they generally have substantially reduced prices and contain
> better and more reliable components.
>
> The very first 64 code transponders were over 14 thousand bucks. And that
> was back when you could buy a Bonanza for about the same price.
>
> After the airlines and corporate airplanes bought those, Wilcox came out
> with one for only 7 grand. By the time we little guys were forced to
> install them if we wanted to fly IFR in busy airspace, they were up to over
> one thousand codes and priced under a thousand bucks. Plus, they were
> smaller, lighter, and used less power.
>
> I think it pays to wait.
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Question about ADS-B In/Out and Transponders |
Sounds good to Me!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 11/15/2011 12:39:34 P.M. Central Standard Time,
ralphmariafinch@gmail.com writes:
Very true Old Bob! I too will wait until the latest possible moment to buy
and install the goodies. But, I am installing antennas now, while the
fuselage is easy to get at, and am anticipating what antennas might be needed.
I've decided to put in both a 1090 MHz transponder antenna and a 978 MHz
UAT antenna; if I'm wrong, little time and money lost. Thanks for your
input.
RF
On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 9:52 AM, <_BobsV35B@aol.com_
(mailto:BobsV35B@aol.com) > wrote:
Good Afternoon RF,
That one is beyond my sphere of knowledge, though I THINK you are correct.
I have not studied the requirements for the UAT or ADS-B in or out.
As an aside, I know I will install nothing in my airplane that is not
required to be installed by current regulations. If I could get by with it, I
would NOT install an ELT of either type nor a transponder of any sort.
My experience has been that by the time mandatory devices are required to
be installed, they generally have substantially reduced prices and contain
better and more reliable components.
The very first 64 code transponders were over 14 thousand bucks. And that
was back when you could buy a Bonanza for about the same price.
After the airlines and corporate airplanes bought those, Wilcox came out
with one for only 7 grand. By the time we little guys were forced to install
them if we wanted to fly IFR in busy airspace, they were up to over one
thousand codes and priced under a thousand bucks. Plus, they were smaller,
lighter, and used less power.
I think it pays to wait.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 13
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| Subject: | Alternator & starter |
Gents,
I'm getting close to sorting out a 40A alternator and starter for my
O-235-engined Jodel D150 project. My instinct would be to go with B&C
versions of both, but any observations or alternative suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in anticipation,
James
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator & starter |
On 11/15/2011 1:22 PM, James Kilford wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Kilford<james@etravel.org>
>
> Gents,
>
> I'm getting close to sorting out a 40A alternator and starter for my
> O-235-engined Jodel D150 project. My instinct would be to go with B&C
> versions of both, but any observations or alternative suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Many thanks in anticipation,
>
> James
Great products, but a Buick (or even a Chevy) will get you there just as
reliably as a Cadillac...
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator & starter |
James,
I have used B&C components on several projects including the Little Toot I'm presently
building. Nothing but sterling service from the folks at B&C. I will
continue to use their products and services on any future project.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Nov 15, 2011, at 1:22 PM, James Kilford wrote:
>
> Gents,
>
> I'm getting close to sorting out a 40A alternator and starter for my
> O-235-engined Jodel D150 project. My instinct would be to go with B&C
> versions of both, but any observations or alternative suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Many thanks in anticipation,
>
> James
Message 16
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| Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Over Voltage |
Need some help. First please understand that electricity is NOT my bag! I have
read Bob Knuckolls book, I just wish I understood it!
I have a Sonex with a Jabiru 3300 engine. I see voltages ranging from 12.3 at
idle to over 16 volts at climb power! I talked with Jabiru and they suggested
I change the yellow wire from the voltage regulator (control voltage) to the
main bus from the + side of the capacitor (see attached schematic) to read "cleaner"
voltage. I did this and I now get voltages of 16 volts at cruise power!
I have installed Bob Knuckolls "crowbar over voltage" circuit from B&C. I
have never tripped the over voltage circuit (5A C/B) BUT, I have blown the 10A
fuse (twice) in the master switch circuit. I reads the voltage in 3 places,
the MGL Enigma EFIS, the MGL V10 Comm radio and the MicroAir Transponder....they
all read the same. I do NOT have an ammeter. BTW, I can control the voltage
by turning on the landing lights. Then I get about 12.6v at climb power.
I read the Jabiru manual and it tells me the voltage regulator should output 14
+ or - .8 volts at cruise power. Is my schematic correct or do I have an error???
I think I have a bad voltage regulator. I have 18.3 hours of time in the
phase 1 testing.
Thanks in advance.
--------
Dale A. Gray
Sonex N506DG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358062#358062
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dales_schematic_204.jpg
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator & starter |
Hi James,
I use both B & C products on my 320 with no regrets.
I replaced a less expensive 'Ford' alternator and a 'Toyota' starter.
B & C are good folks!
Earl
Gents,
I'm getting close to sorting out a 40A alternator and starter for my
O-235-engined Jodel D150 project. My instinct would be to go with B&C
versions of both, but any observations or alternative suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in anticipation,
James
==================================
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Over Voltage |
At 05:13 PM 11/15/2011, you wrote:
I have a Sonex with a Jabiru 3300 engine. I see voltages ranging
from 12.3 at idle to over 16 volts at climb power!
These small alternators produce no useable power
at idle. Hence your 12.3 reading is what the BATTERY
is supplying.
If you EVER have 16 volts, the regualtor is not doing
it's job either because it is bad . . . or wired wrong.
I talked with Jabiru and they suggested I change the yellow wire
from the voltage regulator (control voltage) to the main bus from the
+ side of the capacitor (see attached schematic) to read "cleaner"
voltage. I did this and I now get voltages of 16 volts at cruise power!
Okay, my best guess is that the rectifier/regulator is
bad.
I have installed Bob Knuckolls "crowbar over voltage" circuit from
B&C. I have never tripped the over voltage circuit (5A C/B) BUT, I
have blown the 10A fuse (twice) in the master switch circuit.
You need to look at the diagram in the 'Connection
again. That's NOT a 10A fuse upstream of the 5A breaker
but a fusible link. A 10A fuse will open faster than
a 5A breaker when the crowbar module trips. So, if
you've popped some fuses, the OVM is on confirming what
your voltmeter has already told you. The factory
adjusted trip point for the 14V OVM is 16.4 volts.
I reads the voltage in 3 places, the MGL Enigma EFIS, the MGL V10
Comm radio and the MicroAir Transponder....they all read the same.
They must be working.
I do NOT have an ammeter.
Don't need one.
BTW, I can control the voltage by turning on the landing
lights. Then I get about 12.6v at climb power.
That's probably because you've depressed the system
voltage by overloading the alternator.
I read the Jabiru manual and it tells me the voltage regulator should
output 14 + or - .8 volts at cruise power. Is my schematic correct
or do I have an error??? I think I have a bad voltage regulator.
I think so too. You perhaps understand more than
you think!
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | PTT shield connections |
Bob:
I'm putting a PTT switch in my stick. I understand that the two ptt wires are connected
to the tip and sleeve leads of the mic jack. I thought some folks shielded
these wires, so I figured I'd use two conductor shielded wire for this.
If it's not a bad idea to shield these wires, where and to what is the shield connected?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358085#358085
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Over Voltage |
First, suspect the voltmeter. Get a (calibrated) second meter and check
it out. Easy to do that.
Ammeters are cheap. Please install one, at least temporarily until this
problem is solved.
It does sound as if the voltage regulator is not cooperating fully.
simple, but that is all I know is simple stuff.
David M.
zqqmin wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "zqqmin"<zqqmin@hotmail.com>
>
> Need some help. First please understand that electricity is NOT my bag! I have
read Bob Knuckolls book, I just wish I understood it!
>
> I have a Sonex with a Jabiru 3300 engine. I see voltages ranging from 12.3 at
idle to over 16 volts at climb power! I talked with Jabiru and they suggested
I change the yellow wire from the voltage regulator (control voltage) to the
main bus from the + side of the capacitor (see attached schematic) to read "cleaner"
voltage. I did this and I now get voltages of 16 volts at cruise power!
I have installed Bob Knuckolls "crowbar over voltage" circuit from B&C.
I have never tripped the over voltage circuit (5A C/B) BUT, I have blown the 10A
fuse (twice) in the master switch circuit. I reads the voltage in 3 places,
the MGL Enigma EFIS, the MGL V10 Comm radio and the MicroAir Transponder....they
all read the same. I do NOT have an ammeter. BTW, I can control the voltage
by turning on the landing lights. Then I get about 12.6v at climb power.
>
> I read the Jabiru manual and it tells me the voltage regulator should output
14 + or - .8 volts at cruise power. Is my schematic correct or do I have an error???
I think I have a bad voltage regulator. I have 18.3 hours of time in
the phase 1 testing.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Dale A. Gray
> Sonex N506DG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358062#358062
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dales_schematic_204.jpg
>
>
>
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