Today's Message Index:
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0. 12:36 AM - Please Support The Lists... (Matt Dralle)
1. 12:08 AM - Fw: earth shield earthing (JOHN TIPTON)
2. 12:15 AM - Fw: earth shield earthing (JOHN TIPTON)
3. 12:53 AM - Re: Re: antenna connections (rayj)
4. 01:03 AM - switch destruction (rayj)
5. 01:28 AM - Re: PTT shield connections (Jason Beaver)
6. 06:03 AM - Re: Garmin 430 to 430W Differences (Jeff Page)
7. 07:27 AM - Re: antenna connections (messydeer)
8. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 02:23 PM - Re: PTT shield connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 02:26 PM - Re: switch destruction (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 02:32 PM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 03:12 PM - Re: Fw: earth shield earthing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 03:38 PM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Redux) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 04:48 PM - Re: B & C ?? (tomcostanza)
15. 06:32 PM - Re: antenna connections (messydeer)
16. 08:30 PM - Main panel power supply fuse (Victor Menkal)
Message 0
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Subject: | Please Support The Lists... |
Dear Listers,
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Message 1
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Subject: | Fw: earth shield earthing |
Hi Guys (Bob)
How do you attach the shield of the co-axle cable, of say the wire going
out to your wing tip strobe tubes that require the shield to be
connected (only) to ground at the strobe power unit - do you simply
unravel some of the braid twist it and push it into a AMP ring connector
and crimp up ?
Best regards
John
Message 2
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Subject: | Fw: earth shield earthing |
Hi Guys (Bob)
How do you attach the shield of the co-axle cable, of say the wire going
out to your wing tip strobe tubes that require the shield to be
connected (only) to ground at the strobe power unit - do you simply
unravel some of the braid twist it and push it into a AMP ring connector
and crimp up ?
Best regards
John
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
SNIP
>
> Heating a material to a ductile state does not change
> it's alloy. If it was 'stainless' to begin with, it's
> still stainless.
>
SNIP
Greetings Bob,
While you are correct that heating a stainless alloy doesn't change the
alloy, there are other issues associated with stainless that are worth
considering when it has been heated. The 2 that come to mind are
passivating and changes in the structure at the ends of the heated
section (in welding it is referred to as the heat affected zone).
Without knowing the the alloy or the manufacturing process it is hard to
predict, but if something unexpected occurs, it may be attributable to
the bending process.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
Message 4
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Subject: | switch destruction |
Greetings,
Just a quick note to help folks avoid the error I made. I was mounting
a toggle switch through a hole and needed the full length of the threads
to accommodate the thickness and a weather proof cover. End of the
story, I overtightened the nut and about the 3rd time I flipped the
switch the entire threaded portion of the switch pulled up out of the
hole and into my hand leaving the body hanging by the wires. Seems
obvious in hind site, but I didn't give it a thought as I tightened the nut.
do not archive
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: PTT shield connections |
Does it particularly matter if the pair isn't twisted?
jason
On Nov 16, 2011, at 6:40 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> At 11:42 PM 11/15/2011, you wrote:
>>
>> Bob:
>>
>> I'm putting a PTT switch in my stick. I understand that the two ptt wires are
connected to the tip and sleeve leads of the mic jack. I thought some folks
shielded these wires, so I figured I'd use two conductor shielded wire for this.
>>
>> If it's not a bad idea to shield these wires, where and to what is the shield
connected?
>
> No shield necessary or even useful. Open twisted pair is fine.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 430 to 430W Differences |
Robert,
Page 3-9 of the Garmin 400W Series Installation Manual 190-00356-02
discusses the minimum and maximum cable loss permissible, and how
connectors and cable length influence cable loss. I found no mention
of requirements to maintain a specific cable length.
With your GPS antenna on the glareshield, a direct connection would
definitely have been too short.
Jeff
> Time: 06:22:29 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 430 to 430W Differences
> From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Several years ago I had a 530 and a 430 upgraded to WAAS capability
> (530W & 430W).
> With the new capability came a pair of new antennas, new antenna cables and
> the admonition NOT to cut the cable length. The whole system was very finely
> tuned and to ensure the accuracy in positioning required for instrument work
> the new hardware must be used as provided. My Garmin units were in
> the instrument
> panel and the antenna installed on top of the panel so I had to carefully
> roll up the 15' of RG-400 cable for each unit so it would fit inside
> the instrument
> panel.
>
> So, yes, he has to change the antenna and cable and ensure it all
> meets Garmin
> specs if he is to do it "by the book."
>
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
Just for kicks, I started looking for some silver solder. RS has some for $7 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62717 It has 2% Ag, no P. Most of the other ones I found were in the 2-4% range. Rosin core seems like it would be easier. Will this solder work?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358260#358260
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
At 09:22 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote:
>
>Just for kicks, I started looking for some silver solder. RS has
>some for $7 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId
>62717 It has 2% Ag, no P. Most of the other ones I found were in the
>2-4% range. Rosin core seems like it would be easier. Will this solder work?
I should have been a bit more specific. "Solder" comes
in a LOT of flavors and not all sliver bearing solders
are intended to be structural.
The solders used for electronics are not intended to
make up highly stressed joints. Silver is included in
these solders to make them more friendly to the task.
We know, for example, that solder makes a joint by
DISSOLVING some portion of the metals to be joined
into the melt.
WAAAAAyyyy back when, some premium electronics device
like Tektronix scopes used terminal strips that were
ceramic moldings with a sliver alloy bonded into
the notches like this:
Emacs!
These were popular with other high-end product of the
vacuum tube era. One was well advised to use a silver
bearing solder to make up joints on these terminals
to avoid "washing" the sliver off the ceramic and
breaking the bond. Many a 'scope I've opened from
that era had a small quantity of suitable solder
stashed somewhere inside by the factory.
This sort of solder would be useful in making up
joints on any silver-plated terminal.
But when you're sticking things together that
are highly stressed, it's a different kind of
sliver solder that has more like 40% or more silver
and melts at temperatures far above that produced
by your soldering iron. Avoid "refrigeration" solder
with phosphorous in it (sil-fos) as it is specific
to joining of high pressure copper plumbing.
The durn stuff is not cheap and you only need
a gram or so. It might be that you'd want to
drop by a weld shop and get it brassed (or
silver soldered if they have it in stock).
Here's an example of a 'hard' solder
http://tinyurl.com/7t7ypah
If it's a process you want to be able to do
in the future, then investing in a small chunk
of solder will give you a joining process that
can be accomplished with hardware store torches.
You'll also need flux. A borax based paste that
melts and looks water clear as the joint flows
and cools to look like a layer of glass. Chips
away easily.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: PTT shield connections |
At 03:24 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote:
>
>Does it particularly matter if the pair isn't twisted?
No. just easier to keep them togther in a bundle.
I use a drill motor to "spin" up to 4 strands of
wire into a twisted assembly when needed. But for
PTT lines it's not useful electrically.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: switch destruction |
At 03:00 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote:
Greetings,
Just a quick note to help folks avoid the error I made. I was
mounting a toggle switch through a hole and needed the full length of
the threads to accommodate the thickness and a weather proof
cover. End of the story, I overtightened the nut and about the 3rd
time I flipped the switch the entire threaded portion of the switch
pulled up out of the hole and into my hand leaving the body hanging
by the wires. Seems obvious in hind site, but I didn't give it a
thought as I tightened the nut.
OOPS! Thanks for sharing and reminding me. I don't think
I've mentioned it in any of my writings about toggle switches.
But you've gathered a lesson that will stay with you the
rest of your life. I got that lesson many moons ago myself!
Yes, toggle switches (and other devices with long
threaded bushings) should be mounted with TWO
nuts so that make up forces are not transferred to
the switch body. I'll get that admonition added to the
next update to the 'Connection. Thanks again!
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
While you are correct that heating a stainless alloy doesn't change
the alloy, there are other issues associated with stainless that are
worth considering when it has been heated. The 2 that come to mind
are passivating and changes in the structure at the ends of the
heated section (in welding it is referred to as the heat affected
zone). Without knowing the the alloy or the manufacturing process it
is hard to predict, but if something unexpected occurs, it may be
attributable to the bending process.
Absolutely. Heating and bending any structural piece gives
rise to potential changes in the metal's performance.
I've heard of brazed pieces failing outside the joint
because the nature of the material changed due
to heating for joining.
In this case, we were discussing the appearance of
a lightly stressed part . . . buffing off the corrosion
products from heating and the risks are low. But your
point is well taken! Thanks!
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Fw: earth shield earthing |
At 02:09 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote:
>Hi Guys (Bob)
>
>How do you attach the shield of the co-axle cable, of say the wire
>going out to your wing tip strobe tubes that require the shield to
>be connected (only) to ground at the strobe power unit - do you
>simply unravel some of the braid twist it and push it into a AMP
>ring connector and crimp up ?
Here's a couple of techniques.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shield_Grounds/
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
What kind of wire was supplied with your strobes? If
it's foil shield, then there will be a bare 'drain
wire' included in the makeup over the shield. You
ground the shield by putting a terminal on this wire.
Emacs!
Bob . . .
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: antenna connections (Redux) |
Here's some more information on STRUCTURAL silver soldering
techniques and materials.
http://tinyurl.com/bsjgblm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=lxXrw1hENb8
just for grins, check this one out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=cHKl14JQM3Y
that's all I need is another 'project' but when a tool
hoarder lives in the hinterland . . . well . . .
Bob . . .
Message 14
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OK now. Thanks all. It must have been down momentarily when I tried to access
it.
do not archive
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358324#358324
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: antenna connections |
Thanks for the silver solder info, Bob.
What would be wrong with using a 3/16 or 1/4" rod of aluminum instead of SS and
cut threads on the end? It's much easier to bend and a 2' piece of it from ACS
is cheaper than a cup of coffee. It wouldn't fit into the 3/8-24 mount, but
an adapter from a short piece of 3/4" rod aluminum could be made. Drill and tap
one end for 3/8-24 and the other to fit the rod. You could even taper the adapter
into a cone shape.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358328#358328
Message 16
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Subject: | Main panel power supply fuse |
Hi folks. Appreciate advice on following.
I am finishing up wiring a CH750 with a Rotax 912ULS and a composite design power
panel. None of the "typical" wiring diagrams I have show a fuse on the main
power supply from the battery (master solenoid) to the panel. I am using
a 10 gauge tefzel feed cable which is about 5' long.
Is it not good practice to install a "mega fuse" as close to the master solenoid
as possible to prevent fires and to protect this circuit in the event of a short?
Ive calculated that a 60 amp fuse will be more than sufficient for all
foreseeable loads.
Thanx Vic
Victor Menkal
CH750 Rotax 912ULS-2
Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada
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