AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Thu 11/17/11


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     0. 12:36 AM - Please Support The Lists...  (Matt Dralle)
     1. 12:08 AM - Fw: earth shield earthing (JOHN TIPTON)
     2. 12:15 AM - Fw: earth shield earthing (JOHN TIPTON)
     3. 12:53 AM - Re: Re: antenna connections (rayj)
     4. 01:03 AM - switch destruction (rayj)
     5. 01:28 AM - Re: PTT shield connections (Jason Beaver)
     6. 06:03 AM - Re: Garmin 430 to 430W Differences (Jeff Page)
     7. 07:27 AM - Re: antenna connections (messydeer)
     8. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 02:23 PM - Re: PTT shield connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 02:26 PM - Re: switch destruction (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 02:32 PM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 03:12 PM - Re: Fw: earth shield earthing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 03:38 PM - Re: Re: antenna connections (Redux) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    14. 04:48 PM - Re: B & C ?? (tomcostanza)
    15. 06:32 PM - Re: antenna connections (messydeer)
    16. 08:30 PM - Main panel power supply fuse (Victor Menkal)
 
 
 


Message 0


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    Time: 12:36:50 AM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Please Support The Lists...
    Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well! Your Contributions alone keep these services up and running. Please make your Contribution today at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator


    Message 1


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    Time: 12:08:50 AM PST US
    From: "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
    Subject: Fw: earth shield earthing
    Hi Guys (Bob) How do you attach the shield of the co-axle cable, of say the wire going out to your wing tip strobe tubes that require the shield to be connected (only) to ground at the strobe power unit - do you simply unravel some of the braid twist it and push it into a AMP ring connector and crimp up ? Best regards John


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:15:14 AM PST US
    From: "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
    Subject: Fw: earth shield earthing
    Hi Guys (Bob) How do you attach the shield of the co-axle cable, of say the wire going out to your wing tip strobe tubes that require the shield to be connected (only) to ground at the strobe power unit - do you simply unravel some of the braid twist it and push it into a AMP ring connector and crimp up ? Best regards John


    Message 3


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    Time: 12:53:49 AM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: antenna connections
    SNIP > > Heating a material to a ductile state does not change > it's alloy. If it was 'stainless' to begin with, it's > still stainless. > SNIP Greetings Bob, While you are correct that heating a stainless alloy doesn't change the alloy, there are other issues associated with stainless that are worth considering when it has been heated. The 2 that come to mind are passivating and changes in the structure at the ends of the heated section (in welding it is referred to as the heat affected zone). Without knowing the the alloy or the manufacturing process it is hard to predict, but if something unexpected occurs, it may be attributable to the bending process. Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:03:24 AM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: switch destruction
    Greetings, Just a quick note to help folks avoid the error I made. I was mounting a toggle switch through a hole and needed the full length of the threads to accommodate the thickness and a weather proof cover. End of the story, I overtightened the nut and about the 3rd time I flipped the switch the entire threaded portion of the switch pulled up out of the hole and into my hand leaving the body hanging by the wires. Seems obvious in hind site, but I didn't give it a thought as I tightened the nut. do not archive -- Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine


    Message 5


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    Time: 01:28:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: PTT shield connections
    From: Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>
    Does it particularly matter if the pair isn't twisted? jason On Nov 16, 2011, at 6:40 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > At 11:42 PM 11/15/2011, you wrote: >> >> Bob: >> >> I'm putting a PTT switch in my stick. I understand that the two ptt wires are connected to the tip and sleeve leads of the mic jack. I thought some folks shielded these wires, so I figured I'd use two conductor shielded wire for this. >> >> If it's not a bad idea to shield these wires, where and to what is the shield connected? > > No shield necessary or even useful. Open twisted pair is fine. > > > Bob . . . > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:03:23 AM PST US
    From: Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com>
    Subject: Re: Garmin 430 to 430W Differences
    Robert, Page 3-9 of the Garmin 400W Series Installation Manual 190-00356-02 discusses the minimum and maximum cable loss permissible, and how connectors and cable length influence cable loss. I found no mention of requirements to maintain a specific cable length. With your GPS antenna on the glareshield, a direct connection would definitely have been too short. Jeff > Time: 06:22:29 AM PST US > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 430 to 430W Differences > From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> > > > Jeff, > > Several years ago I had a 530 and a 430 upgraded to WAAS capability > (530W & 430W). > With the new capability came a pair of new antennas, new antenna cables and > the admonition NOT to cut the cable length. The whole system was very finely > tuned and to ensure the accuracy in positioning required for instrument work > the new hardware must be used as provided. My Garmin units were in > the instrument > panel and the antenna installed on top of the panel so I had to carefully > roll up the 15' of RG-400 cable for each unit so it would fit inside > the instrument > panel. > > So, yes, he has to change the antenna and cable and ensure it all > meets Garmin > specs if he is to do it "by the book." > > Bob Borger > Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop. > Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP > 3705 Lynchburg Dr. > Corinth, TX 76208-5331 > Cel: 817-992-1117 > rlborger@mac.com


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:27:00 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: antenna connections
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Just for kicks, I started looking for some silver solder. RS has some for $7 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62717 It has 2% Ag, no P. Most of the other ones I found were in the 2-4% range. Rosin core seems like it would be easier. Will this solder work? -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358260#358260


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:23:43 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: antenna connections
    At 09:22 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote: > >Just for kicks, I started looking for some silver solder. RS has >some for $7 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId >62717 It has 2% Ag, no P. Most of the other ones I found were in the >2-4% range. Rosin core seems like it would be easier. Will this solder work? I should have been a bit more specific. "Solder" comes in a LOT of flavors and not all sliver bearing solders are intended to be structural. The solders used for electronics are not intended to make up highly stressed joints. Silver is included in these solders to make them more friendly to the task. We know, for example, that solder makes a joint by DISSOLVING some portion of the metals to be joined into the melt. WAAAAAyyyy back when, some premium electronics device like Tektronix scopes used terminal strips that were ceramic moldings with a sliver alloy bonded into the notches like this: Emacs! These were popular with other high-end product of the vacuum tube era. One was well advised to use a silver bearing solder to make up joints on these terminals to avoid "washing" the sliver off the ceramic and breaking the bond. Many a 'scope I've opened from that era had a small quantity of suitable solder stashed somewhere inside by the factory. This sort of solder would be useful in making up joints on any silver-plated terminal. But when you're sticking things together that are highly stressed, it's a different kind of sliver solder that has more like 40% or more silver and melts at temperatures far above that produced by your soldering iron. Avoid "refrigeration" solder with phosphorous in it (sil-fos) as it is specific to joining of high pressure copper plumbing. The durn stuff is not cheap and you only need a gram or so. It might be that you'd want to drop by a weld shop and get it brassed (or silver soldered if they have it in stock). Here's an example of a 'hard' solder http://tinyurl.com/7t7ypah If it's a process you want to be able to do in the future, then investing in a small chunk of solder will give you a joining process that can be accomplished with hardware store torches. You'll also need flux. A borax based paste that melts and looks water clear as the joint flows and cools to look like a layer of glass. Chips away easily. Bob . . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:23:48 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: PTT shield connections
    At 03:24 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote: > >Does it particularly matter if the pair isn't twisted? No. just easier to keep them togther in a bundle. I use a drill motor to "spin" up to 4 strands of wire into a twisted assembly when needed. But for PTT lines it's not useful electrically. Bob . . .


    Message 10


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    Time: 02:26:04 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: switch destruction
    At 03:00 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote: Greetings, Just a quick note to help folks avoid the error I made. I was mounting a toggle switch through a hole and needed the full length of the threads to accommodate the thickness and a weather proof cover. End of the story, I overtightened the nut and about the 3rd time I flipped the switch the entire threaded portion of the switch pulled up out of the hole and into my hand leaving the body hanging by the wires. Seems obvious in hind site, but I didn't give it a thought as I tightened the nut. OOPS! Thanks for sharing and reminding me. I don't think I've mentioned it in any of my writings about toggle switches. But you've gathered a lesson that will stay with you the rest of your life. I got that lesson many moons ago myself! Yes, toggle switches (and other devices with long threaded bushings) should be mounted with TWO nuts so that make up forces are not transferred to the switch body. I'll get that admonition added to the next update to the 'Connection. Thanks again! Bob . . .


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:32:47 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: antenna connections
    While you are correct that heating a stainless alloy doesn't change the alloy, there are other issues associated with stainless that are worth considering when it has been heated. The 2 that come to mind are passivating and changes in the structure at the ends of the heated section (in welding it is referred to as the heat affected zone). Without knowing the the alloy or the manufacturing process it is hard to predict, but if something unexpected occurs, it may be attributable to the bending process. Absolutely. Heating and bending any structural piece gives rise to potential changes in the metal's performance. I've heard of brazed pieces failing outside the joint because the nature of the material changed due to heating for joining. In this case, we were discussing the appearance of a lightly stressed part . . . buffing off the corrosion products from heating and the risks are low. But your point is well taken! Thanks! Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 03:12:36 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Fw: earth shield earthing
    At 02:09 AM 11/17/2011, you wrote: >Hi Guys (Bob) > >How do you attach the shield of the co-axle cable, of say the wire >going out to your wing tip strobe tubes that require the shield to >be connected (only) to ground at the strobe power unit - do you >simply unravel some of the braid twist it and push it into a AMP >ring connector and crimp up ? Here's a couple of techniques. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shield_Grounds/ http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html What kind of wire was supplied with your strobes? If it's foil shield, then there will be a bare 'drain wire' included in the makeup over the shield. You ground the shield by putting a terminal on this wire. Emacs! Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 03:38:26 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: antenna connections (Redux)
    Here's some more information on STRUCTURAL silver soldering techniques and materials. http://tinyurl.com/bsjgblm http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=lxXrw1hENb8 just for grins, check this one out http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=cHKl14JQM3Y that's all I need is another 'project' but when a tool hoarder lives in the hinterland . . . well . . . Bob . . .


    Message 14


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    Time: 04:48:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: B & C ??
    From: "tomcostanza" <Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
    OK now. Thanks all. It must have been down momentarily when I tried to access it. do not archive -------- Clear Skies, Tom Costanza Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358324#358324


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:32:07 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: antenna connections
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Thanks for the silver solder info, Bob. What would be wrong with using a 3/16 or 1/4" rod of aluminum instead of SS and cut threads on the end? It's much easier to bend and a 2' piece of it from ACS is cheaper than a cup of coffee. It wouldn't fit into the 3/8-24 mount, but an adapter from a short piece of 3/4" rod aluminum could be made. Drill and tap one end for 3/8-24 and the other to fit the rod. You could even taper the adapter into a cone shape. -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358328#358328


    Message 16


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    Time: 08:30:57 PM PST US
    From: Victor Menkal <vmenkal@mac.com>
    Subject: Main panel power supply fuse
    Hi folks. Appreciate advice on following. I am finishing up wiring a CH750 with a Rotax 912ULS and a composite design power panel. None of the "typical" wiring diagrams I have show a fuse on the main power supply from the battery (master solenoid) to the panel. I am using a 10 gauge tefzel feed cable which is about 5' long. Is it not good practice to install a "mega fuse" as close to the master solenoid as possible to prevent fires and to protect this circuit in the event of a short? Ive calculated that a 60 amp fuse will be more than sufficient for all foreseeable loads. Thanx Vic Victor Menkal CH750 Rotax 912ULS-2 Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada




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