Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:57 AM - Re: Wiring Harness (Bob Leffler)
2. 03:29 AM - Re: Wiring Harness (Peter Pengilly)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... ()
4. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: First Engine Start Problem (Dan Billingsley)
5. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... (Tim Andres)
6. 07:21 AM - Re: Wiring Harness (Dan Sherburn)
7. 10:50 AM - KX155/165 Crimp Contacts (David Jensen)
8. 01:26 PM - charging a battery assistance (Michael Welch)
9. 03:41 PM - Re: KX155/165 Crimp Contacts ()
10. 05:29 PM - Re: charging a battery assistance (Neal George)
Message 1
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1. Seems like more work than necessary. Getting all the physical
position relationships seem tough. Remember not all the wires have the same
end point locations.
2. This is what I did and worked quite well. Just remember to add a
little extra for service loops and to give you some flexibility when you go
back to start tying up your bundles and installing adel clamps to hold them
in place. I used nylon tie wraps with large open loops so that it would
hold the bundles in their relative position and it was easy to insert
additional wire. When I was done, I came back with lacing and tied the
bundles and cut the tie wraps. Then I installed a few adel clamps to keep
the bundles secured.
bob
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sherburn
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 7:17 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Harness
What are thoughts on creating the electrical wiring harness? I've attached
the embrionic schematic (lot's of final design, editing and cleanup to do)
just to convey the simplicity of my Zenith CH750 electrical system.
Specifically, should I:
1. mock-up (chalk) an outline of the plane, run the requisite wires,
label and bundle them (using expandable sleeving or spiral wrap)? ie.
complete an entire harness....
2. or, just run wires one at a time and tie wrap and sheath with an
expandable sleeve or spiral wrap them once all of the circuits are wired and
tested?
3. what's best to use in as far as a spiral wrap or expandable sleeve?
I've heard the term "snakeskin" used....
Much of the drawing/design/symbols in the attached was gleaned from the
AeroElectric Connection....
Regards,
Dan Sherburn
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
Hi Dan,
I find drawing different views helps. You already have a schematic, a
location drawing could be useful to allow you to site the components and
figure out where the wires will run. You will likely place the starter
and master solenoids close together, so it will also give you a feel for
how long each wire will be. Draw what the bus bars will look like (will
you use a fuse block?), to give yourself an idea of the lay out.
I start by mounting the fuse blocks/buses/breakers and start running
wires. It always takes more wire than you think once it is tied down, so
do that as you go - very frustrating to cut a wire too short! I have
used expandable sleeve, but don't really like spiral wrap unless anti
chafe protection is needed. If using expandable sleeve you may have to
start feeding wires from the beginning as it may not be possible to feed
it over any spurs. If you don't use a sleeve you could use spring clips
to hold things in place until everything is run and then tie up with
lacing cord.
Hope this helps, Peter
BTW, I'm not sure your alternator output will be very useful wired in as
shown - perhaps it should go to the main bus or battery contactor?
On 31/12/2011 00:16, Dan Sherburn wrote:
> What are thoughts on creating the electrical wiring harness? I've
> attached the embrionic schematic (lot's of final design, editing and
> cleanup to do) just to convey the simplicity of my Zenith CH750
> electrical system.
> Specifically, should I:
>
> 1. mock-up (chalk) an outline of the plane, run the requisite wires,
> label and bundle them (using expandable sleeving or spiral wrap)?
> ie. complete an entire harness....
> 2. or, just run wires one at a time and tie wrap and sheath with an
> expandable sleeve or spiral wrap them once all of the circuits are
> wired and tested?
> 3. what's best to use in as far as a spiral wrap or expandable
> sleeve? I've heard the term "snakeskin" used....
>
> Much of the drawing/design/symbols in the attached was gleaned from
> the AeroElectric Connection....
> Regards,
> Dan Sherburn
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... |
12/31/2011
Hello Matt, Attached are pictures of the two static ports on the foward
fuselage sides of my KIS TR-1:
0599 is the plain static port on the right side of the fuselage.
0602 is the same basic static port on the left side of the fuselage, but
with a self made aluminum wedge installed on it.
Since the wedge is installed aft of the opening in the static port it has
the effect of slightly increasing the static pressure that this port is
sensing and sending to the rest of the static portion of the pitot static
system. This slight increase in static pressure, in the airspeed indicator,
balances out or reduces the effective force being applied to the indicator
by the air pressure coming in from the pitot tube. The result is that the
airspeed indicator indicates a slightly lower airspeed than it would without
the wedge.
A wedge applied before the static port opening would have the opposite
effect.
Plan on doing a lot of test flying to get your wedge(s) fine tuned to
accomplish what you want in the way of airspeed reading without
significantly adversely affecting your altimeter readings.
My thinking is that it is more important to have the airspeed reading what
it should be in the approach speed arena rather than the cruise speed arena.
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: First Engine Start Problem |
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A>________________________________=0A> From: "Robert L. Nucko
lls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>=0A>To: aeroelectric-list@matronic
s.com =0A>Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 8:14 PM=0A>Subject: Re: AeroElect
ric-List: Re: First Engine Start Problem=0A> =0A>--> AeroElectric-List mess
age posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>=0A
>-This is exactly what YOUR fusible link did. Had it not been=0A>- inst
alled, you would have probably overheated if not smoked=0A>- the protecte
d wire . . . possibly damaging other wires in=0A>- the bundle.-=0A>Whic
h is something that concerns me due to my knee jerk reaction of sticking an
18 Ga wire in and starting my engine 3 times that day. The total time I ra
n the engine between the three starts was about 10 min. -My thinking that
the running of the engine may not have been so bad but the starts- put s
train on the circuit with that diode reversed. I will certainly inspect tha
t complete circuit looking for any sign of where the wire got too hot. I al
so have a concern for the wires up stream of the main bus going to the swit
ch. The 5A circuit breaker did not fail, but I will check that fuse link as
well. Is there anything else I might be missing that needs a look?=0A>Than
ks again,=0A>Dan=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>==
=============0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... |
I just did all this on my plane, the GRT equipment has a calibration utility built
in that makes it a snap. Just fly the heading displayed and push a button
for a given airspeed. Very simple &easy.
I would imagine the Dynon has something similar.
Tim
Sent from my iPad
On Dec 31, 2011, at 5:00 AM, <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
> 12/31/2011
>
> Hello Matt, Attached are pictures of the two static ports on the foward fuselage
sides of my KIS TR-1:
>
> 0599 is the plain static port on the right side of the fuselage.
>
> 0602 is the same basic static port on the left side of the fuselage, but with
a self made aluminum wedge installed on it.
>
> Since the wedge is installed aft of the opening in the static port it has the
effect of slightly increasing the static pressure that this port is sensing and
sending to the rest of the static portion of the pitot static system. This
slight increase in static pressure, in the airspeed indicator, balances out or
reduces the effective force being applied to the indicator by the air pressure
coming in from the pitot tube. The result is that the airspeed indicator indicates
a slightly lower airspeed than it would without the wedge.
>
> A wedge applied before the static port opening would have the opposite effect.
>
> Plan on doing a lot of test flying to get your wedge(s) fine tuned to accomplish
what you want in the way of airspeed reading without significantly adversely
affecting your altimeter readings.
>
> My thinking is that it is more important to have the airspeed reading what it
should be in the approach speed arena rather than the cruise speed arena.
>
> 'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to gather
and understand knowledge."
> <100_0599.jpg>
> <100_0602.jpg>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
Peter,
Oops....you are correct on the alternator wire. The drawing should have
had the output wire of the alternator going to the other side of the
starter contactor. Thanks for the catch!
In as far as wiring, I'm thinking you are correct, in as far as the
bundle. I'm using a fuse block as the buss and will start running
device wires individually from there and then bundle.
As Bob suggests in his book, I'm creating a "wire-book" that has
component location drawings, as well as detailed connection drawings I
get from manufacturers (like the strobe/
position lights). Thanks again for the note.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Pengilly
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Harness
Hi Dan,
I find drawing different views helps. You already have a schematic, a
location drawing could be useful to allow you to site the components and
figure out where the wires will run. You will likely place the starter
and master solenoids close together, so it will also give you a feel for
how long each wire will be. Draw what the bus bars will look like (will
you use a fuse block?), to give yourself an idea of the lay out.
I start by mounting the fuse blocks/buses/breakers and start running
wires. It always takes more wire than you think once it is tied down, so
do that as you go - very frustrating to cut a wire too short! I have
used expandable sleeve, but don't really like spiral wrap unless anti
chafe protection is needed. If using expandable sleeve you may have to
start feeding wires from the beginning as it may not be possible to feed
it over any spurs. If you don't use a sleeve you could use spring clips
to hold things in place until everything is run and then tie up with
lacing cord.
Hope this helps, Peter
BTW, I'm not sure your alternator output will be very useful wired in
as shown - perhaps it should go to the main bus or battery contactor?
On 31/12/2011 00:16, Dan Sherburn wrote:
What are thoughts on creating the electrical wiring harness? I've
attached the embrionic schematic (lot's of final design, editing and
cleanup to do) just to convey the simplicity of my Zenith CH750
electrical system.
Specifically, should I:
1.. mock-up (chalk) an outline of the plane, run the requisite
wires, label and bundle them (using expandable sleeving or spiral wrap)?
ie. complete an entire harness....
2.. or, just run wires one at a time and tie wrap and sheath with
an expandable sleeve or spiral wrap them once all of the circuits are
wired and tested?
3.. what's best to use in as far as a spiral wrap or expandable
sleeve? I've heard the term "snakeskin" used....
Much of the drawing/design/symbols in the attached was gleaned from
the AeroElectric Connection....
Regards,
Dan Sherburn
Message 7
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| Subject: | KX155/165 Crimp Contacts |
Hello!
Does anyone know the actual part number of the contacts used for the KX155
connectors? I know they're AMP or Molex, but not the manufacturer part
number....want to avoid paying the exorbitant prices when buying them thru
avionics channels.
Appreciate any info! Want to stock up.
Thanks David
--
Thanks!
David Jensen
djensen@ieee.org
Message 8
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| Subject: | charging a battery assistance |
List members,
I'm restoring a Honda CL125 Scrambler, and I have a dilemma. It has a brand
new 6 volt
battery, but it's very low, and I need to recharge it. I have a regular 12V car
battery charger,
and a 12V Float Charger, neither of which is appropriate to charge a little 6V
dinky M/C battery.
Is there a way I can charge this little 6V battery with a home-made modification
to that
Float Charger, or could I use one of those "Wall Chargers"? I've got tons of them
from
ALL kinds of electric goodies over the years (I bet I have about 30 of them in
all kinds of outputs).
The Float Charger says "INPUT 120VAC 14W---OUTPUT 15VAC 600mA, and it has
some sort of little rectangular box inline in the battery cable to the leads.
I realize this isn't directly airplane related, but maybe the electric pointers
and theory will be
helpful to many list members, like me.
Thanks for your help!!
Mike Welch
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: KX155/165 Crimp Contacts |
Sure...and the extractor too:
http://www.berkut13.com/extractor.htm
From: David Jensen
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 12:41 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: KX155/165 Crimp Contacts
Hello!
Does anyone know the actual part number of the contacts used for the
KX155 connectors? I know they're AMP or Molex, but not the manufacturer
part number....want to avoid paying the exorbitant prices when buying
them thru avionics channels.
Appreciate any info! Want to stock up.
Thanks David
--
Thanks!
David Jensen
djensen@ieee.org
Message 10
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| Subject: | charging a battery assistance |
Mike -
Schumacher's 1562A will fit your need.
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SEM-1562A-Speed-Charge-Maintainer/dp/B0009I
BJAS
Neal
-----Original Message-----
<mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
List members,
I'm restoring a Honda CL125 Scrambler, and I have a dilemma. It has a
brand new 6 volt
battery, but it's very low, and I need to recharge it. I have a regular 12V
car battery charger,
and a 12V Float Charger, neither of which is appropriate to charge a little
6V dinky M/C battery.
Is there a way I can charge this little 6V battery with a home-made
modification to that
Float Charger, or could I use one of those "Wall Chargers"? I've got tons
of them from
ALL kinds of electric goodies over the years (I bet I have about 30 of them
in all kinds of outputs).
The Float Charger says "INPUT 120VAC 14W---OUTPUT 15VAC 600mA, and it has
some sort of little rectangular box inline in the battery cable to the
leads.
I realize this isn't directly airplane related, but maybe the electric
pointers and theory will be
helpful to many list members, like me.
Thanks for your help!!
Mike Welch
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