Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:53 AM - Re: Re: Capacitive Fuel Level Sensor - How do they work? (Richard Girard)
2. 06:36 AM - Re: Composite aircraft grounding systems. (Steve Stearns)
3. 06:36 AM - Re: Wiring Harness (Glen Matejcek)
4. 07:45 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Harness (Ron Raby)
5. 08:43 AM - Re: Composite aircraft grounding systems. (Eric M. Jones)
6. 09:36 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Harness (RGent1224@aol.com)
7. 12:05 PM - Re: Wiring Harness (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
8. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Wiring Harness (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:32 PM - Diodes on soleniods (mark donahue)
10. 10:19 PM - Re: Headset microphone level reducer (Etienne Phillips)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Capacitive Fuel Level Sensor - How do they |
work?
I've been using a Westach cap sender in a plastic fuel tank for the last 6
years.
http://www.westach.com/
It has low and high pots on the top of the sender and, once set, seems to
work consistently from fill to fill. I changed out tanks during an extended
annual three years ago (old ones were yellowed and had bottom taps that I
didn't trust) and I had to shorten the probe a tad, but well within
Westach's specs. Adjusted the pots for the new length and flew on.
Because of the height of the body of the sender unit they aren't easily
utilized in a wing tank, but for a fuselage or header tank where you have
~1" of space above the tank top they would be fine. Sorry I have no info on
how well they would deal with another vendor's gauge, but a sample of their
instruction sheet is here.
http://www.westach.com/instructions/395-240OHM-P1.jpg
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jan 2, 2012 at 5:14 PM, Bob McCallum
<robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>wrote:
> ** ** **
>
> *The Centroid Products site works perfectly for me by following the link
> provided by John.*
>
> * *
>
> *Here is the link he provided again in case this works better for someone
> than the original.*
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.centroidproducts.com/tableofc.htm*
>
> * *
>
> *and** here is their home page if this helps.*
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.centroidproducts.com*
>
> * *
>
> *Good luck*
>
> *Bob McC*
>
> * *
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *
> RGent1224@aol.com
> *Sent:* Monday, January 02, 2012 2:14 PM
> *To:* **aeroelectric-list@matronics.com**
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Capacitive Fuel Level Sensor - How
> do they work?****
>
> ** **
>
> You're not along****
>
> Dick****
>
> ****
>
> In a message dated 1/2/2012 12:53:43 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> ainut@knology.net writes:****
>
>
> Wow. That site refuses to allow me a connection, even to their home page.
>
> David M.
>
>
> jonlaury wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jonlaury"<
> jonlaury@impulse.net>
> >
> > The electronics have been explained by Joe and Sarg, and Sarg elaborated
> on his experience with **Princeton** probes.
> >
> > But the reason for installing cap probes has gone unanswered.
> > Cap probes allow for fuel measurement of irregularly shaped tanks. My
> fuel bays in the wing change in taper, both in depth and width, in addition
> to the whole tank sitting at an angle (dihedral), making any kind of
> accurate measurement impossible over the tank range when using a linear
> type (float) sensor.
> > I have installed 8' Centroid probes. Haven't fueled them yet.
> > They come with two small potentiometers built in to adjust the empty and
> full points. Available in 0-5v output and various resistance output so you
> can use them with your existing gauge.
> >
> > http://www.centroidproducts.com/tableofc.htm
> >
> > Not a recommendation, just a resource, as I have no real world
> experience with this product, . YMMV.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362237#362237
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Tell the truth. Be honest. Be responsible to and for yourself.
>
> I liked ****America**** when it was free and it's people were responsible
> and had morals.
>
> Every gram of cocaine you buy from elsewhere contributes to an innocent
> being murdered in Central and **South America**. Grow your own or Stop
> taking = Use ilities ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site p;
>
> **
> ******
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List*
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> * - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -*
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> * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.*
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>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Composite aircraft grounding systems. |
Mike and the group:
Regarding the the placement of the starter solenoid there is, as usual,
more than one way to skin this cat. There are some trade-offs. Bob's
recommendation to put the solenoid back by the starter and use the one
big feed line for both the starter supply and Alternator B lead, which I
think is a good one for many people, eliminates an otherwise needed
additional wire (#8 in my case) for the alternator B lead running from
the alternator back to the bus and thus saves it's weight.
My LongEz was flying when purchased but I immediately grounded it and
spent ~4 years reworking it before putting it back in the air again.
It's been flying it since August '11. When I totally replaced the
electrical system in the my LongEz, I read the book, considered all the
options, posted lots of question on the forum and I ended up with the
planned location for the starter solenoid up front. Here's why:
My goal, in recognition that I was new to experimentals in general and
LongEzs in particular, was to stick pretty close to the plans and owners
manual authored by Burt unless they had been superseded by CPs, or a
perceived (and well reasoned) consensus on the yahoo group
canardaviators. With that in mind, I wanted all my initial flight
testing without a starter (even though it had one when I bought it) to
keep the CG as far forward as I could and keep it as light as possible.
I haven't yet installed the heavy feed or return cables back to the
firewall that will be required if I later reinstall the starter.
I did, keeping a future installation in mind, reserve space up front for
the starter solenoid and I kept the #8 firewall return (i.e. ground)
wire separate from the laced bundle going back to the firewall so that
it would be easy to replace it with welding wire (or CCA) later if required.
The two biggest reasons I went this route is that, when I am running
without the starter as I am now, I'm not carrying around the heavier
wire and it allowed me to protect the #8 B-wire with an ANL up near the
master relay and battery so that I didn't have an unprotected
high-current feed running from the master relay (or buss) all the way
back to the firewall. As I understand it (and Bob is the authority
here, not me) there is nothing wrong with having the unprotected feed
from the buss going all the way back to the firewall but I was more
comfortable not doing so. Another benefit was that I could keep all
this stuff together up in the nose (which is also where I moved the
regulator) rather than back on the firewall (which is already crowded
enough on a LongEz, esp. if you have electronic ignition as I do).
If and when I do re-install the starter, the downside for going the
route that I did is that I'll be carrying around a single extra #8 wire
running from back to front. That wasn't a problem for me given that
I'll also be adding two long lines of welding wire and a starter at that
time as well... A purest might reconfigure at that time to the
configuration Bob recommended to save the weight of the #8 wire. I won't.
btw: I recommend both the canardaviators forum and Central States
Association. There is a lot of good information out there on LongEzs
beyond the plans and CPs but it takes some digging to get to it.
In completing your LongEz be sure to be more concerned about "completion
drag" than "aerodynamic drag". Anything you do that hasn't already been
done before, and been well documented in the process, will cost you more
time (i.e. be a drag on getting your bird flying) than you imagine...
Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07) and flying again (8/11!): N45FC O235 Longeze
Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
Radio Shack sels (or usedc to, anyway...) temporary velcro wire bundle tie straps.
Very, very convenient and reuseable.
Glen Matejcek
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
How about building the harness on a template. That way it can be built
outside the aircraft tested and inspected before instalation.
Regards
Ron Raby
Lancair ES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 9:33 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wiring Harness
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Radio Shack sels (or usedc to, anyway...) temporary velcro wire bundle tie
> straps. Very, very convenient and reuseable.
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Composite aircraft grounding systems. |
I sell lots of Copper-Clad Aluminum cable to 300 mph fuel dragster and racecar
builders, weird groups doing strange things where the weight is important. I even
sell the stuff to the companies building remote-controlled drones. Predator
drones and the more advance secret stuff...
Airbus and Boeing use similar CCA configurations.
I sell Super-2-CCA, Super-4-CCA, AWG-6-CCA (same dimensions as AWG-6 but CCA with
Tefzel insulation), and Super-CCA RG+142
See my website. CCA is 60% the weight of copper for the same conductivity.
If you have the battery on the firewall, you are okay. Otherwise, use CCA.
Also see Bob's most excellent article, http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/economics_of_weight_reduction.html
and on my website: http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires_files/Coppercables.pdf
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362332#362332
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
Home Depot and Lowes have them
Dick
In a message dated 1/3/2012 8:37:11 A.M. Central Standard Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
temporary velcro wire bundle tie straps
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
In a message dated 1/3/2012 8:37:11 A.M. Central Standard
Time, aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
temporary velcro wire bundle tie straps
I have found that the hook and loop straps used by
many supermarkets to wrap leaf lettuce and other produce are great for
temporary bundle ties, and they are cheap. =98=BA
Roger
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness |
At 09:37 AM 1/3/2012, you wrote:
>
>How about building the harness on a template. That way it can be
>built outside the aircraft tested and inspected before instalation.
That IS how the 'big' guys do it. But they often build the proof
of concept harness in the airplane, take it out and build
a form-board to match it. Even with full 3-D CAD systems, it's
difficult to build a first-article that really fits the airplane
the way the craftsmen would like it.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Diodes on soleniods |
I am building an RV 9, and wiring per Van's wiring diagram. The diagram
does not show diodes on the starter or master relay, but the accessories
catalog lists "protection" Diodes to be installed to protect the master and
starter switches for surge protection. Sounds like this is a good thing to
install. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mark Donahue
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Headset microphone level reducer |
Thanks Bob!
That's exactly the kind of circuit I was looking for. I'll get back to you on it's
effectiveness.
The new child headset is supposedly an aviation one, and the destination is an
aviation MGL radio, so one would have hoped that there wouldn't be such a large
discrepancy in levels!
Thanks again
Etienne
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