---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 04/05/12: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:58 AM - Re: Next generation wig-wag controller for LED lamps (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 2. 10:08 AM - Re: Next generation wig-wag controller for LED lamps (user9253) 3. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: Converting to externally reg alternator (Paul Millner) 4. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: Converting to externally reg alternator (Paul Millner) 5. 08:56 PM - Re: OT: low voltage bulb base *NOT LAMP HOLDER* (rayj) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:58:39 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Next generation wig-wag controller for LED lamps At 11:03 PM 4/4/2012, you wrote: > >Bob, thank you for the schematic. I guess this is the part where >the "education" part comes in with my project. The "U" devices >already have my curiosity... Good question. Reference designators starting with "U" are generally integrated circuits. In this instance, U109 is a CD4093, quad 2-input, NAND gate with schmidt-trigger inputs. http://tinyurl.com/ckr5ls9 The schematic for this device gets discorporated into 4 sections A thru D. But if you check the pin numbers assigned to the collection of gates you will find that they all add up to 14 . . . the number of pins on the single device. >BTW, how does a person see the picture where the Emacs! occurs? > >Mike You can go to the Matronics server where the messages are archived. http://tinyurl.com/864kunv Select AeroElectric-List and scroll down to the thread of interest . . in this case: http://tinyurl.com/7mg3mwk This would be an excellent project for someone who wants to stick their toe into the puddle of electronics technologies. This circuit would assemble nicely on a piece of Radio Shack perfboard http://tinyurl.com/732bwo3 The whole bill of materials is less than $10. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 10:08:12 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Next generation wig-wag controller for LED lamps From: "user9253" > BTW, how does a person see the picture where the Emacs! occurs? Go here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=89537&sid=ede9bd402953309c61e2cb5a7b20db17 Or go here for future Emacs! pictures: http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3 Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370102#370102 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:36:10 PM PST US From: Paul Millner Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Converting to externally reg alternator Ah! Since anecdotal evidence is apparently compelling, my Ford had a runaway alternator, which resulted in a battery explosion, which peppered the underside of the hood with acid burns. Bummer. Paul On 4/2/2012 7:10 AM, Ed Anderson wrote: > > > I have been flying over 12 years on a Bosch (rebuilt) alternator with > internal regulator - with no problems. The only downside I can see is > that once it has bootstrapped itself, removing voltage to the field > coil does not stop the output. So if I had a runaway alternator it > could theoretically fry my electronics - on the other hand, in all my > life of driving automobiles and the one or two alternator failures > (failed diodes), I've never had a runaway alternator failure mode. > > FWIW > > Ed > > Edward L. Anderson > Anderson Electronic Enterprises LLC > 305 Reefton Road > Weddington, NC 28104 > http://www.andersonee.com > http://www.eicommander.com > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Eric M. Jones" > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2012 9:43 AM > To: > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Converting to externally reg alternator > >> >> >> Eric is easily amused... >> >> try: >> >> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Converting+to+externally+regulated+alternator >> >> But here is where I will annoy Bob N.: Consider the fact that if >> automobile regulators had a lower failure rate if they were >> externally regulated, auto makers would use them. The fact is that >> BRAND NEW (not rebuilt) Nippon Denso alternators seem to have a >> nearly-zero failure rate. >> >> Then make your decision. I have had several builders send me their >> external regulators for examination. This cemented my opinion >> permanently. >> >> -------- >> Eric M. Jones >> www.PerihelionDesign.com >> 113 Brentwood Drive >> Southbridge, MA 01550 >> (508) 764-2072 >> emjones(at)charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369828#369828 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > -- Please note my new email address! millner@me.com ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:36:10 PM PST US From: Paul Millner Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Converting to externally reg alternator Another anecdotal observation... my Buick Park Avenue had a 135 amp, internally regulated alternator. It would fail, like clockwork, every 45,000 miles (I drove the car to 222,000 miles). I had one examined, and discovered the internal regulator had overheated, apparently, and failed. On the GM transversely mounted six, the alternator is on top... so no crawling underneath required. I got very good at the R&R process. Paul On 4/2/2012 11:32 AM, longg@pjm.com wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: > > Beven, > > According to Mr. Google, this should take about 30 minutes. http://www.wallaceracing.com/alt-conversion.html > > It looks like it's more popular to covert externals to internals (at least in the automotive world where the externals always failed). > > Funny, I don't see too many folks lying under their cars on the turnpike pulling out their internally regulated jobs. I've run many a car well past 100k and never had the alternator go. That's why I've got an IR in my bird. I took have an SD-8. Wouldn't leave home without it. > > Occasionally I talk to pilots who piss and moan about how they had to fly their so and so to the alternator shop so they could have Mr. Alternator specialist provide a special part for their regulator. No Thanks > > Cut those wires and go fly. It's summer time. > > Glenn, N57 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of B Tomm > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2012 1:39 PM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Converting to externally reg alternator > > Wow, I didn't think my question would hit such a sensitive nerve. In the same league as a primer war. > > My question was about the "how" but many of you are interested in discussing the "why". Here's where I'm coming from. > > For better or worse, the decision was made a long time ago to configure my electrical system for external regulation ala Bob M. Now I'm getting close to needing an alternator and looking at the options. I will have an SD-8 backup alternator and therefore don't consider the main alternator as being required to be of the absolute best quality. It just needs to have a failure mode that does not affect other more expensive electronics. As far as I know, there are no "100% guaranteed to work for ever" alternators anyway. So my theory is to have a spare in the hangar ready to go or to be brought to me when/if a failure occurs. I'm thinking I would rather have two $100 alternators that I have converted to external regulation and tested than one $595 alternator and no spare. > > When, converting two to external regulation I will learn something and decide whether I can do this when away from my regular tool box. I may be too far from my spare and have to buy an internally regulated one and convert it out in the field. I seem to recall that it's not too difficult of a process. More like a removal of unnecessary parts. Something I am usually pretty good at. I plan on keeping some maintenance papers in the plane's tool bag anyway, one of which could be the alternator process. > > My thoughts only. You may have another opinion and that's fine with me. > > Bevan > > "I like to build and fix things" > > >> _____________________________________________ >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> ROGER& JEAN CURTIS >> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2012 9:12 AM >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Converting to externally reg >> alternator >> >> >> Does the crowbar module not offer enough protection? With a VFR day >> only, electronic ignition setup, minimal elctrogizmos, does not the >> reserve battery power give a safe reserve? >> >> Bob Verwey >> >> >> The Conventional crowbar module is used with the external regulator. >> The internal regulator does not work with the external crowbar circuit. >> >> Roger > > -- Please note my new email address! millner@me.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:56:14 PM PST US From: rayj Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: OT: low voltage bulb base *NOT LAMP HOLDER* Greetings, I finally got around to further attempts to salvage lamp bases. I tried every solvent I had on the shelf. From water to acetone to MEK. The bulbs were soaked for about a week in each. No luck with any of them. I was able to heat the base enough with a propane torch to knock the bulb and base apart. Here's how: Warning: Life is dangerous, even more so if you're dumb. Advice: Don't be dumb. 1. Break the bulb. I heated a complete bulb and the glass actually melted and popped a hole. 2. Grip the stalk that sticks up in to the bulb to hold the filament with pliers. This method will not require that the pliers be exposed to heat. The other method, if the stalk is missing, is to grip the base at the bottom so it is not crushed when the bulb comes out. Use pliers that you are willing to have heated and the temper removed from them. Heat the base, being sure to melt the solder in the the contact(s) on the bottom and the spot of solder on the side of the base where the glass meets the base. 3. When smoke comes from around the bulb, tap the pliers on a hard object with the base pointed down. The base should pop right off. If not repeat the heating/tapping cycle until the base pops off. If you are holding the base, point the base up and do the heating/tapping cycle. This method can be used if the base is not coming off easily because the remaining part of the bulb weighs more and exerts more force when the tapping is done. The base will have some charred glue in it. I have chosen not to worry about it and just pot the new LED bulb base with E-6000. I found some bases at the link below, which seem like the way to go if the bases they offer are the ones you need. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?action=DispProds&product=CAR&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=BAY15D-EB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CNSE6pTIn6oCFdBrKgod91Em5w#BAY15D-EB Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine On 03/03/2011 06:43 PM, rayj wrote: > > Bob McC, > > I hadn't tried dissolving the glue. I assumed that it wouldn't be easily > dissolved. I'll definitely try soaking not only in water but some more > aggressive solvents, might also try heat. Thanks very much for the > suggestion. I'll report back when I get some time to try it. > > Raymond Julian > Kettle River, MN > > On 03/03/2011 09:39 AM, Bob McCallum wrote: >> Raymond; >> >> You should be able to source complete bulbs for pennies a piece and >> although you said removing the glass bulb is a pain, if you soak them in >> water, the glue usually degrades enough that removal is fairly easy. >> After that just clip off the leads and you have the bare base which you >> want. No need to break the glass in most cases. >> >> Not what you asked for but maybe a solution to your problem. >> >> Bob McC >> >> >> >> > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2011 22:59:18 -0600 >> > From: raymondj@frontiernet.net >> > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: low voltage bulb base *NOT LAMP HOLDER* >> > >> >> > >> > do not archive >> > >> > Does anyone know of a source for the part of a bulb that is the base. >> > The piece that the glass is mounted into and has the electric contacts >> > on it. >> > >> > I'm thinking about fabricating LED replacements for some low volt/DC >> > incandescent. I know they are for sale but expensive and the process of >> > removing the glass and the filament to reuse old bases is a pain. >> > >> > Thanks for any help. >> > >> > -- >> > Raymond Julian >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> * >> >> >> * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.