Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:51 AM - Re: Starter contactor location (Stuart Hutchison)
2. 02:03 AM - Re: Starter contactor location (Bob Verwey)
3. 02:39 AM - Re: Starter contactor location (Stuart Hutchison)
4. 02:39 AM - Re: Starter contactor location (maca2790)
5. 02:46 AM - Re: Starter contactor location (user9253)
6. 04:00 AM - wig wag again (bob noffs)
7. 07:02 AM - Push to Test (Eric M. Jones)
8. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: OS Wig-Wag Project (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:09 AM - Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 07:52 AM - Re: wig wag again (gregmchugh)
11. 10:05 AM - Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector (Jared Yates)
12. 10:21 AM - Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector ()
13. 02:09 PM - Re: Push to Test (Vern Little)
14. 02:15 PM - Re: Starter contactor location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 02:36 PM - Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector (Peter Pengilly)
16. 03:22 PM - Re: Re: Antenna mounting-doubler (dougshep@netzero.com)
17. 04:06 PM - Open Source software license options (gregmchugh)
18. 04:36 PM - Re: Open Source software license options (Dennis Golden)
19. 05:14 PM - Re: Open Source software license options (Ralph Finch)
20. 05:49 PM - Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector (David Lloyd)
21. 05:54 PM - Re: Open Source software license options (Dwight Frye)
22. 06:09 PM - Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector (Charlie England)
23. 06:20 PM - Re: Open Source software license options (Dennis Golden)
24. 06:49 PM - Re: Open Source software license options (Dwight Frye)
25. 07:13 PM - Re: Open Source software license options (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
26. 07:19 PM - Re: Re: Antenna mounting-doubler (Rick Lark)
27. 10:10 PM - Re: Re: Antenna mounting-doubler (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
28. 10:34 PM - Anyone interested in a 9lb battery/jumpstart kit? (rparigoris)
Message 1
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Subject: | Starter contactor location |
G'day Mickey,
The aim is to pick off master power from the "big lead" as it enters the
starter solenoid up front. Seems to be more cumbersome to run a big lead
forward to carry start currents (energised or not) and another lead forward
to carry main bus power.
Kind regards, Stu
F1 Rocket VH-FLY <http://www.mykitlog.com/RockFLY>
http://www.mykitlog.com/RockFLY <about:www.teamrocketaircraft.com>
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey
Coggins
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 3:29 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter contactor location
I have a rear-mounted battery on my RV8 and I'm trying to figure out why I
wouldn't want to install the starter solenoid in the back near the battery
instead of on the firewall - anyone see an issue with putting it back there?
Advantages I see:
1) the long run of the fat cable will not be energized when not starting the
engine
2) less stuff on the firewall
3) a bit more weight in the back
Thanks for any tips.
--
Mickey Coggins
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Starter contactor location |
I have had the same thought as Mickey.....from a safety point of view, I
think this is a huge plus. Twisted metal and big conductors equals
sparks.....
Best..
Bob Verwey
Safari ZU-AJF in rebuild
On 23 April 2012 10:51, Stuart Hutchison <stuart@stuarthutchison.com.au>wrote:
> **
> G'day Mickey,
>
> The aim is to pick off master power from the "big lead" as it enters the
> starter solenoid up front. Seems to be more cumbersome to run a big lead
> forward to carry start currents (energised or not) and another lead forward
> to carry main bus power.
>
>
> Kind regards, Stu******
>
> ** **
>
> F1 Rocket VH-FLY http://www.mykitlog.com/RockFLY
> www.teamrocketaircraft.com****
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Mickey
> Coggins
> *Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2012 3:29 PM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Starter contactor location
>
> I have a rear-mounted battery on my RV8 and I'm trying to figure out
> why I wouldn't want to install the starter solenoid in the back near the
> battery instead of on the firewall - anyone see an issue with putting it
> back there?
>
> Advantages I see:
>
> 1) the long run of the fat cable will not be energized when not starting
> the engine
> 2) less stuff on the firewall
> 3) a bit more weight in the back
>
> Thanks for any tips.
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Starter contactor location |
Sure, but even medium wires + twisted metal = enough sparks to ignite fires
... hence the reason for turning the master off (once the flaps are
out/comms complete) before any crash landing :) Some builders also slot the
forward wing tank attach point to help avoid the tank being ripped open in a
crash ... any fire is bad of course, but I would be more concerned about
igniting fuel fumes than a slower starting fire electrical fire ... and
practically any gauge power wire can spark off fuel fumes.
Kind regards, Stu
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Verwey
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Starter contactor location
I have had the same thought as Mickey.....from a safety point of view, I
think this is a huge plus. Twisted metal and big conductors equals
sparks.....
Best..
Bob Verwey
Safari ZU-AJF in rebuild
On 23 April 2012 10:51, Stuart Hutchison <stuart@stuarthutchison.com.au>
wrote:
G'day Mickey,
The aim is to pick off master power from the "big lead" as it enters the
starter solenoid up front. Seems to be more cumbersome to run a big lead
forward to carry start currents (energised or not) and another lead forward
to carry main bus power.
Kind regards, Stu
F1 Rocket VH-FLY <http://www.mykitlog.com/RockFLY>
http://www.mykitlog.com/RockFLY www.teamrocketaircraft.com
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey
Coggins
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 3:29 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter contactor location
I have a rear-mounted battery on my RV8 and I'm trying to figure out why I
wouldn't want to install the starter solenoid in the back near the battery
instead of on the firewall - anyone see an issue with putting it back there?
Advantages I see:
1) the long run of the fat cable will not be energized when not starting the
engine
2) less stuff on the firewall
3) a bit more weight in the back
Thanks for any tips.
--
Mickey Coggins
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Starter contactor location |
Electrically Speaking (Impedance) there is no difference between the Solenoid being
at the front or the rear.
Mechanically you will need to run another Heavy cable (8ga) to the front if
you have the Solenoid at the Battery.
So in the end you will save weight and dollars by running the 2 ga cable to the
firewall and then an 8 ga cable to the distribution bus.
cheers
John MacCallum
RV10
VH-DUU
#41016
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371566#371566
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Subject: | Re: Starter contactor location |
Mickey,
A rear mounted starter contactor will work just fine. The disadvantage is that
a longer wire will be required to connect the battery to the main bus at the
panel. Weight can be saved by wiring the plane the conventional way using shorter
wires for the main bus and starter contactor control.
If installed properly, the big fat cable is unlikely to short to ground. Just
remember to shut off the master switch if a forced landing is imminent.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371569#371569
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hi all,
as i had just recently put wig wags on my plane i didn't pay much
attention to all the posts about the led system. i am just now finding out
how poor my lights are. is there a site that sums up what was said and
offers schematic and parts list to build the led system?
bob noffs
Message 7
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> Can someone point me in the direction of a '2 pole push switch' or a 'standard'
2 pole switch ie: OFF-ON(mom) - this is to enable me to have a single push
to test switch, for both push to earth circuits, and push to
> live circuits in one switch John
Just a note: Using LEDs for indicators pretty much obviates the need for "push-to-test"
switches that test only the lamp function. LEDs should last longer than
the switch, the socket, the wiring or the airplane. So eliminate this function
unless you are actually testing the entire function (which is usually quite
impractical).
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371596#371596
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: OS Wig-Wag Project |
At 09:33 AM 4/22/2012, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Took a look at the P2 version and it looks good. Only noticed an issue
>on page 3 with the d-sub pins. Pin 11 is listed twice (one should be
>Pin 10) and Pin 2 is missing (2nd line to the power bus).
>
>I will use the P2 to continue with the software for the wig-wag. I should
>have something available later this week to use for testing with the
>hardware.
Very good. I'll order boards today when I get back
to the office. Been toting barges and lifting bales
this weekend (moving furniture).
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Removing contacts from a King radio connector |
At 05:35 PM 4/21/2012, you wrote:
>
>Peter
>
>The working blade is 10mm long, 1.5mm wide and 0.65mm thick on a "handle"
>5mm wide and 67mm long, same thickness
>
>Best Regards
>
>Peter
I've made similar tools from a pocket screwdriver
using a grinder. Adjust dimensions to your specifics.
See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Extraction_Tools/extraction_tool.jpg
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: wig wag again |
There seem to be many options for the LED landing/taxi lights. I
did not do an exhaustive analysis but based on a quick survey,
at the moment, my plan is to use two of the Teledyne Alphabeam
lights at the wing tips of my Xenos motor glider.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/teledynelandinglight.php
While I may at some point fly at night, my main goal was to get
wig-wag lights for improved recognition. The Teledyne's seemed
to be a little more rugged than most, they have a wide beam that
would allow them to have good visibility from off center, and the
price did not seem out of line compared to similar lights. They also fit
into in a standard landing light mount (e.g, Duckworks). You can
definitely find lots of options that are less expensive but they
appeared to me to be less rugged and have a less powerful beam.
Of course many use less power which could be a consideration
for many applications. I am about a year away from when I need
to purchase them so things could change based on what becomes
available...
Greg McHugh
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371606#371606
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector |
Street sweeper bristles are also good tool blanks. They are made from a soft steel
that is easy to grind, and in most municipalities they are available for free.
On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:08, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
> At 05:35 PM 4/21/2012, you wrote:
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> The working blade is 10mm long, 1.5mm wide and 0.65mm thick on a "handle"
>> 5mm wide and 67mm long, same thickness
>>
>> Best Regards
>>
>> Peter
>
> I've made similar tools from a pocket screwdriver
> using a grinder. Adjust dimensions to your specifics.
>
> See:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Extraction_Tools/extraction_tool.jpg
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector |
Here's a really simple, cheap and amazingly effective, homemade Molex KK
pin extractor:
http://www.berkut13.com/extractor.htm
Enjoy.
-James
Berkut/Race 13
www.berkut13.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jared Yates
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing contacts from a King radio
connector
<email@jaredyates.com>
Street sweeper bristles are also good tool blanks. They are made from a
soft steel that is easy to grind, and in most municipalities they are
available for free.
On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:08, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 05:35 PM 4/21/2012, you wrote:
<peter@mather.com>
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> The working blade is 10mm long, 1.5mm wide and 0.65mm thick on a
"handle"
>> 5mm wide and 67mm long, same thickness
>>
>> Best Regards
>>
>> Peter
>
> I've made similar tools from a pocket screwdriver
> using a grinder. Adjust dimensions to your specifics.
>
> See:
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Extraction_Tools/extraction_tool.j
pg
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Push to Test |
Interesting that a thread over on Van's airforce involves removing the LEDs
from unreliable annunciators and replacing them with after market LEDs.
LEDs can fail if mis-applied or if they are part of some of the cheap junk
lamps sold online.
Eric has tweaked some opinions that I have, that I can distill into "a fools
guide to idiot lights":
Rule 1) Any system that measures must be more reliable than the system it is
measuring.
Rule 2) If rule 1 is violated, it will guarantee that an actual failure in
the underlying system will be ignored.
For example, I had a VDO fuel pressure sender fail on my RV-9A after 400
hours. After in flight diagnosis, I determined that both the mechanical and
electrical boost pumps were functioning properly, so I replaced the sender.
Replacing the sender fixed the problem. The next time I have a fuel
pressure alarm I will suspect the sender has failed again... which may not
be a correct assumption.
I'm sure someone else has a more clever way of saying this than me.
As for Eric's comments, they are spot-on...
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric M. Jones
Just a note: Using LEDs for indicators pretty much obviates the need for
"push-to-test" switches that test only the lamp function. LEDs should last
longer than the switch, the socket, the wiring or the airplane. So eliminate
this function unless you are actually testing the entire function (which is
usually quite impractical).
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371596#371596
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Starter contactor location |
At 12:29 AM 4/23/2012, you wrote:
>I have a rear-mounted battery on my RV8 and I'm trying to figure out
>why I wouldn't want to install the starter solenoid in the back near
>the battery instead of on the firewall - anyone see an issue with
>putting it back there?
>
>Advantages I see:
>
>1) the long run of the fat cable will not be energized when not
>starting the engine
and it's also not available for taking alternator
output to the battery . . . or bringing current
forward for running your electro-whizzies.
>2) less stuff on the fire wall
The forward side of a fire wall is sort of the
preferred place to be a distribution depot for
things electrical and fluid. It's a flat surface
of significant area for organizing such tasks and
compared to all other spaces, much easier to get
at (cowl removal) than say stuffed in between
the panel and fire wall.
>3) a bit more weight in the back
If you have a w/b problem better to put in a larger
battery (useful weight in terms of watt-seconds per
pound of energy stored) or move the battery aft.
Legacy design goals for distribution of power from
the most dangerous source of energy on the airplane
calls for (1) crew controlled disconnect of all
major feeders AT the battery via either battery contactor,
keeping always-hot feeders small and protected by
fast devices (7A or less fuses) or 'mini-contactor'
for isolating less than minor feeders like the alternate
feed to the e-bus.
http://tinyurl.com/756ydec
By taking your fat wire from battery contactor to
a starter contactor on the fire wall, this single
fat-wire starts the engine, supplies power from battery
to electro-whizzies, charges the battery, and terminates
at a handy distribution point right up front where things
are happening.
It was once said that "all roads lead to Rome." In little
airplanes all wires lead to the battery side of the starter
contactor.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector |
Many thanks to all who replied, I modified an small screwdriver on the
belt sander which works admirably.
Peter
On 23/04/2012 18:16, berkut13@berkut13.com wrote:
> Here's a really simple, cheap and amazingly effective, homemade Molex
> KK pin extractor:
> http://www.berkut13.com/extractor.htm
> Enjoy.
> -James
> Berkut/Race 13
> www.berkut13.com <http://www.berkut13.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jared Yates
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 12:01 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing contacts from a King radio
> connector
> <email@jaredyates.com>
> Street sweeper bristles are also good tool blanks. They are made from
> a soft steel that is easy to grind, and in most municipalities they
> are available for free.
> On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:08, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> >
> > At 05:35 PM 4/21/2012, you wrote:
> <peter@mather.com>
> >>
> >> Peter
> >>
> >> The working blade is 10mm long, 1.5mm wide and 0.65mm thick on a
> "handle"
> >> 5mm wide and 67mm long, same thickness
> >>
> >> Best Regards
> >>
> >> Peter
> >
> > I've made similar tools from a pocket screwdriver
> > using a grinder. Adjust dimensions to your specifics.
> >
> > See:
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Extraction_Tools/extraction_tool.jpg
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> *
>
>
> *
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Antenna mounting-doubler |
I had the same question last year when I was using Alodine coated ALCAD for a
bus bar. I talked with the manufacturing tech. staff and got the following reply...I
also included another comment. I noticed when using it, not to let your
part submerge too long in the Alodine bath, else excess Alodine can coat your
aluminum surface:
AL 1201
From: Kristina.Tkacz@us.henkel.com
To:dougshep@netzero.com
Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2011 11:14 AM
Doug,
Per our discussion yesterday about the Alodine 1201, we unfortunately do not have any documentation or data regarding the resistivity capabilities. This product is approved on the QPL-81706 (see: http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/files/Henkel%20Alodine%20Conversion%20Coatings/Mil-DTL-81706B.pdf) for Class 1A. However, we do believe that because of its similarities in chemistries to the Alodine 1200S it should pass the electrical resistance testing. Again, we do not have any data to confirm this. As for the thickness of the coating, an average application would be around 100 nm. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards / mit freundlichen Gr��en,
Kristina Tkacz
Kristina Tkacz
Technical Service Representative Surface Treatment Application Specialist
Aerospace, Global
Henkel Corporation
( Office: +248.577.2115 � Mobile: +248.376.9294
* Email:Kristina.Tkacz@henkel.com www.henkel.com
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
(another question/answer from someone else)
Electrical properties of Alodine 1200 (from; http://www.finishing.com/364/48.shtml )
I would like to know the electrical properties of ALODINE 1200. We are using it
as protection on our metallic housing of Door Control Unit. Is it necessary to
protect the ground stud from ALODINE 1200 ?
Emmanuel SEREZAT transport - FRANCE
Alodine 1200 is one of chromate chemical conversion coating that meets requirements
of MIL-C-5541 (you can find a lot of other processes). Mil-C-5541 [link is
to spec at TechStreet] Class 3 requires maximum 5000 Ohm per sq. inch electrical
resistance. Actually, electrical resistance for properly performed Class
3 is usually 1000-2000 Ohm per sq. inch. MIL-C-5541 Class 1A does not require
electrical conductivity. Most chemical conversion coatings from QPL (including
Alodine 1200) can be performed as both Class 1A and Class 3. Therefore you should
check which class is processed on your parts.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Alodine 1200, 1201, & 1200S: (from: http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/home.php?cat=109)
Alodine 1200 is Henkels product family for hexavalent chromium conversion. Contained
in this family are two primary products; Alodine 1201 and Alodine 1200S.
Alodine 1201 is a ready-to-use liquid product which, when brushed-on or diluted
and immersion-applied, produces a gold-colored Chromate Conversion Coating
which contains hexavalent chromium. Consistent with Class 1A of the mil spec,
it is formulated to provide maximum corrosion prevention when left unpainted
as well as to improve adhesion of paint finish systems on aluminum and aluminum
alloys. Alodine 1200S is the powdered composition dissolved by professional
industrial facilities into their immersion baths.
Doug Shepard, RV-9A construction
Message 17
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Subject: | Open Source software license options |
Anyone have a suggestion on which of the various open source
license options would be appropriate for the Wig-Wag project
and the possible follow-on modules. I need to put something
in the header file for the software that I will be sending out
for testing on the hardware and I could use some guidance
on what language to include with the software code...
Greg McHugh
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371663#371663
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Subject: | Re: Open Source software license options |
On 04/23/2012 06:03 PM, gregmchugh wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "gregmchugh"<gregmchugh@aol.com>
>
> Anyone have a suggestion on which of the various open source
> license options would be appropriate for the Wig-Wag project
> and the possible follow-on modules. I need to put something
> in the header file for the software that I will be sending out
> for testing on the hardware and I could use some guidance
> on what language to include with the software code...
>
> Greg McHugh
I would suggest that you start by reading the GPL and derivative licenses.
Dennis
--
Dennis Golden
Golden Consulting Services, Inc.
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Subject: | Re: Open Source software license options |
I agree. The General Public License is widely used and understood.
http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
Another commonly used license is the Creative Commons license
http://creativecommons.org/
One of these should work fine.
RF
On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Dennis Golden <
dgolden@golden-consulting.com> wrote:
> dgolden@golden-consulting.com**>
>
>
> On 04/23/2012 06:03 PM, gregmchugh wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "gregmchugh"<gregmchugh@aol.**
>> com <gregmchugh@aol.com>>
>>
>> Anyone have a suggestion on which of the various open source
>> license options would be appropriate for the Wig-Wag project
>> and the possible follow-on modules. I need to put something
>> in the header file for the software that I will be sending out
>> for testing on the hardware and I could use some guidance
>> on what language to include with the software code...
>>
>> Greg McHugh
>>
>
> I would suggest that you start by reading the GPL and derivative licenses.
>
> Dennis
> --
> Dennis Golden
> Golden Consulting Services, Inc.
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector |
James,
..great tips. Thanks for the details.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: berkut13@berkut13.com
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing contacts from a King radio
connector
Here's a really simple, cheap and amazingly effective, homemade Molex
KK pin extractor:
http://www.berkut13.com/extractor.htm
Enjoy.
-James
Berkut/Race 13
www.berkut13.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jared Yates
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 12:01 PM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing contacts from a King radio
connector
<email@jaredyates.com>
Street sweeper bristles are also good tool blanks. They are made from
a soft steel that is easy to grind, and in most municipalities they are
available for free.
On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:08, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 05:35 PM 4/21/2012, you wrote:
<peter@mather.com>
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> The working blade is 10mm long, 1.5mm wide and 0.65mm thick on a
"handle"
>> 5mm wide and 67mm long, same thickness
>>
>> Best Regards
>>
>> Peter
>
> I've made similar tools from a pocket screwdriver
> using a grinder. Adjust dimensions to your specifics.
>
> See:
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Extraction_Tools/extraction_tool.j
pg
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Open Source software license options |
Let me respectfully submit that the answer is .... it depends. More to
the point, it depends upon your goals. I just finished three years as a
senior member of the Cisco open source support and license compliance
group and gained a real appreciation for how different licenses have
different impact and net results. GPL is unarguably popular, but so are
many others. Quite old tried-and-true licenses such as BSD and MIT are
still -heavily- used as well. Creative commons is also gaining in
popularity.
If you do go GPL which flavor might you want? GPLv2? Or v3? And do you
know what different effects the two different licenses bring to the
table? (Short answer ... v3 adds the anti-Tivo install-and-run
provisions targeted at consumer-type products and also has greatly
modified language regarding the impacts on patent portfolios). Do you
want the copyleft behavior that is the hallmark of the GPL licenses? If
so, do you also want the prohibition of combining your GPL licensed code
with other bodies of code which might -not- be GPL compatible? I'm not
arguing against GPL at all ... just suggesting that you make sure it
achieves what you want to achieve.
The one thing I would suggest ... no, beg ... you to do is resist the
temptation to craft your own "vanity license". I realize you have not
suggested doing that, but have seen some truly awful licenses written by
well-intentioned geeks (I'm speaking as a geek myself) which actually
prevented the very goals that the author had in mind when he wrote the
language when the license was strictly interpreted. Don't go building
your own license without -real- advice from a -real- intellectual
property lawyer! You can't believe how often code-slingers think they
can craft a legal document that makes sense, much less actually does
what they want.
I may have already crossed the point where people's eyes are glazing
over, so I'll stop. If you want more discussion of this topic off-list
I'd be happy to discuss at length the various licenses .. their pros and
cons .. and be of any assistance I can in helping you pick something
that achieves your goals.
-- Dwight
On 04/23/2012 08:10 PM, Ralph Finch wrote:
> I agree. The General Public License is widely used and understood.
>
> http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
>
> Another commonly used license is the Creative Commons license
> http://creativecommons.org/
>
> One of these should work fine.
>
> RF
>
> On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Dennis Golden
> <dgolden@golden-consulting.com <mailto:dgolden@golden-consulting.com>>
> wrote:
>
> <dgolden@golden-consulting.com
> <mailto:dgolden@golden-consulting.com>>
>
>
> On 04/23/2012 06:03 PM, gregmchugh wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
> "gregmchugh"<gregmchugh@aol.com <mailto:gregmchugh@aol.com>>
>
> Anyone have a suggestion on which of the various open source
> license options would be appropriate for the Wig-Wag project
> and the possible follow-on modules. I need to put something
> in the header file for the software that I will be sending out
> for testing on the hardware and I could use some guidance
> on what language to include with the software code...
>
> Greg McHugh
>
>
> I would suggest that you start by reading the GPL and derivative
> licenses.
>
> Dennis
> --
> Dennis Golden
> Golden Consulting Services, Inc.
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Removing contacts from a King radio connector |
Now all you have to do is find a way to make them stay in the shell when
you insert the radio....
:-)
On 04/23/2012 07:47 PM, David Lloyd wrote:
> James,
> ..great tips. Thanks for the details.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* berkut13@berkut13.com <mailto:berkut13@berkut13.com>
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2012 10:16 AM
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing contacts from a King
> radio connector
>
> Here's a really simple, cheap and amazingly effective, homemade
> Molex KK pin extractor:
> http://www.berkut13.com/extractor.htm
> Enjoy.
> -James
> Berkut/Race 13
> www.berkut13.com <http://www.berkut13.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jared Yates
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 12:01 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing contacts from a King
> radio connector
> <email@jaredyates.com>
> Street sweeper bristles are also good tool blanks. They are made
> from a soft steel that is easy to grind, and in most
> municipalities they are available for free.
> On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:08, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> >
> > At 05:35 PM 4/21/2012, you wrote:
> <peter@mather.com>
> >>
> >> Peter
> >>
> >> The working blade is 10mm long, 1.5mm wide and 0.65mm thick on
> a "handle"
> >> 5mm wide and 67mm long, same thickness
> >>
> >> Best Regards
> >>
> >> Peter
> >
> > I've made similar tools from a pocket screwdriver
> > using a grinder. Adjust dimensions to your specifics.
> >
> > See:
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Extraction_Tools/extraction_tool.jpg
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Open Source software license options |
On 04/23/2012 07:52 PM, Dwight Frye wrote:
> Let me respectfully submit that the answer is .... it depends. More to
> the point, it depends upon your goals. I just finished three years as a
> senior member of the Cisco open source support and license compliance
> group and gained a real appreciation for how different licenses have
> different impact and net results. GPL is unarguably popular, but so are
> many others. Quite old tried-and-true licenses such as BSD and MIT are
> still -heavily- used as well. Creative commons is also gaining in
> popularity.
>
> If you do go GPL which flavor might you want? GPLv2? Or v3? And do you
> know what different effects the two different licenses bring to the
> table? (Short answer ... v3 adds the anti-Tivo install-and-run
> provisions targeted at consumer-type products and also has greatly
> modified language regarding the impacts on patent portfolios). Do you
> want the copyleft behavior that is the hallmark of the GPL licenses? If
> so, do you also want the prohibition of combining your GPL licensed code
> with other bodies of code which might -not- be GPL compatible? I'm not
> arguing against GPL at all ... just suggesting that you make sure it
> achieves what you want to achieve.
>
> The one thing I would suggest ... no, beg ... you to do is resist the
> temptation to craft your own "vanity license". I realize you have not
> suggested doing that, but have seen some truly awful licenses written by
> well-intentioned geeks (I'm speaking as a geek myself) which actually
> prevented the very goals that the author had in mind when he wrote the
> language when the license was strictly interpreted. Don't go building
> your own license without -real- advice from a -real- intellectual
> property lawyer! You can't believe how often code-slingers think they
> can craft a legal document that makes sense, much less actually does
> what they want.
>
> I may have already crossed the point where people's eyes are glazing
> over, so I'll stop. If you want more discussion of this topic off-list
> I'd be happy to discuss at length the various licenses .. their pros and
> cons .. and be of any assistance I can in helping you pick something
> that achieves your goals.
>
> -- Dwight
>
> On 04/23/2012 08:10 PM, Ralph Finch wrote:
>> I agree. The General Public License is widely used and understood.
>>
>> http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
>>
>> Another commonly used license is the Creative Commons license
>> http://creativecommons.org/
>>
>> One of these should work fine.
>>
>> RF
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Dennis Golden
>> <dgolden@golden-consulting.com <mailto:dgolden@golden-consulting.com>>
>> wrote:
>>
>> <dgolden@golden-consulting.com
>> <mailto:dgolden@golden-consulting.com>>
>>
>>
>> On 04/23/2012 06:03 PM, gregmchugh wrote:
>>
>> "gregmchugh"<gregmchugh@aol.com <mailto:gregmchugh@aol.com>>
>>
>> Anyone have a suggestion on which of the various open source
>> license options would be appropriate for the Wig-Wag project
>> and the possible follow-on modules. I need to put something
>> in the header file for the software that I will be sending out
>> for testing on the hardware and I could use some guidance
>> on what language to include with the software code...
>>
>> Greg McHugh
>>
And it might be that you just want it in the public domain where no
license is needed/wanted. If you don't care, why bother with the
legalities of the various licenses.
Dennis
--
Dennis Golden
Golden Consulting Services, Inc.
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Subject: | Re: Open Source software license options |
On 04/23/2012 09:19 PM, Dennis Golden wrote:
> And it might be that you just want it in the public domain where no
> license is needed/wanted. If you don't care, why bother with the
> legalities of the various licenses.
Absolutely true! Public domain is a completely valid choice. But ..
again .. the question is whether that meets your goals or not. I will
say that if you do want it in the public domain please be explicit in
your language for the sake of clarity (i.e. say straight out "this is in
the public domain"). Anything else is subject to interpretation.
However, if you want to at least retain some sort of acknowledgement
that this thing was your creation then one of the liberal licenses (BSD,
MIT, etc.) can achieve that goal without encumbering the receiver much
at all. Mostly those licenses demand what some of us have come to call
"good open source hygiene" in that they request the receiver not remove
headers with copyrights and license language from the source files (plus
a few other similar obligations).
It once again comes back to ... what are your goals? If you want the
lowest bar to adoption, don't care if acknowledgment that you produced
the work is maintained, and are happy for folks to incorporate your work
into some commercial product, then public domain is perfect. If you want
something else, well then .. by golly .. pick what achieves -those- goals.
-- Dwight
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Subject: | Re: Open Source software license options |
>And it might be that you just want it in the public domain where no
>license is needed/wanted. If you don't care, why bother with the
>legalities of the various licenses.
I would suggest we keep it simple. Making such things
work well seems sufficiently challenging without adding
bragging rights. We could craft a AEC Public Domain
page explaining what's offered and why we did it. Any
improvements or expansions on the ideas are welcome and
will be added to the page . . . but if somebody feels
inclined to snatch and run . . . do we really care?
Bob . . .
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Subject: | Re: Antenna mounting-doubler |
Guys, I believe I started this thread about a week ago.
Today I came upon a "General Antenna Installation Guidlines", written by
Cobham which I think is the parent company to Comant. In those
instructions they state that electrical bonding is best accomplished
by "direct metal to metal" contact of the antenna base to the aircraft
skin. Also paint is to be removed and to protect the aluminum against
corrosion, the surface can be alodined. They then also mention using the
mounting screws to provide a good ground as an alternate method with a
couple of other stipulations. As well to test the bonding, a reading of
.003 ohms between the base and the ground should be achieved.
So since I'm mostly using Comant on my -10, I guess I will
continue alodining. I will check to see what kind of readings I get with
my VOM.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 6:18 PM, dougshep@netzero.com
<dougshep@netzero.com>wrote:
> dougshep@netzero.com>
>
> I had the same question last year when I was using Alodine coated ALCAD
> for a bus bar. I talked with the manufacturing tech. staff and got the
> following reply...I also included another comment. I noticed when using
> it, not to let your part submerge too long in the Alodine bath, else exce
ss
> Alodine can coat your aluminum surface:
>
> AL 1201
>
> From: Kristina.Tkacz@us.henkel.com
> To:dougshep@netzero.com
> Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2011 11:14 AM
>
> Doug,
>
> Per our discussion yesterday about the Alodine 1201, we unfortunately do
> not have any documentation or data regarding the resistivity capabilities
.
> This product is approved on the QPL-81706 (see:
> http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/files/Henkel%20Alodine%20Conversion%2
0Coatings/Mil-DTL-81706B.pdf)
> for Class 1A. However, we do believe that because of its similarities in
> chemistries to the Alodine 1200S it should pass the electrical resistance
> testing. Again, we do not have any data to confirm this. As for the
> thickness of the coating, an average application would be around 100 nm.
> Please let me know if you have any further questions.
>
> Kind Regards / mit freundlichen Gr��en,
> Kristina Tkacz
>
> Kristina Tkacz
> Technical Service Representative Surface Treatment Application Specialist
> Aerospace, Global
> Henkel Corporation
> ( Office: +248.577.2115 � Mobile: +248.376.9294
> * Email:Kristina.Tkacz@henkel.com www.henkel.com
>
> - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - -
> (another question/answer from someone else)
> Electrical properties of Alodine 1200 (from;
> http://www.finishing.com/364/48.shtml )
> I would like to know the electrical properties of ALODINE 1200. We are
> using it as protection on our metallic housing of Door Control Unit. Is i
t
> necessary to protect the ground stud from ALODINE 1200 ?
> Emmanuel SEREZAT transport - FRANCE
> Alodine 1200 is one of chromate chemical conversion coating that meets
> requirements of MIL-C-5541 (you can find a lot of other processes).
> Mil-C-5541 [link is to spec at TechStreet] Class 3 requires maximum 5000
> =B5Ohm per sq. inch electrical resistance. Actually, electrical resistanc
e
> for properly performed Class 3 is usually 1000-2000 =B5Ohm per sq. inch.
> MIL-C-5541 Class 1A does not require electrical conductivity. Most chemic
al
> conversion coatings from QPL (including Alodine 1200) can be performed as
> both Class 1A and Class 3. Therefore you should check which class is
> processed on your parts.
>
> - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - -
>
> Alodine 1200, 1201, & 1200S: (from:
> http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/home.php?cat=109)
> Alodine 1200 is Henkel=92s product family for hexavalent chromium
> conversion. Contained in this family are two primary products; Alodine
> 1201 and Alodine 1200S. Alodine 1201 is a ready-to-use liquid product
> which, when brushed-on or diluted and immersion-applied, produces a
> gold-colored Chromate Conversion Coating which contains hexavalent
> chromium. Consistent with Class 1A of the mil spec, it is formulated to
> provide maximum corrosion prevention when left unpainted as well as to
> improve adhesion of paint finish systems on aluminum and aluminum alloys.
> Alodine 1200S is the powdered composition dissolved by professional
> industrial facilities into their immersion baths.
>
> Doug Shepard, RV-9A construction
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Antenna mounting-doubler |
At 09:16 PM 4/23/2012, you wrote:
>Guys, I believe I started this thread about a week ago.
>
>Today I came upon a "General Antenna Installation Guidlines",
>written by Cobham which I think is the parent company to Comant. In
>those instructions they state that electrical bonding is best
>accomplished by "direct metal to metal" contact of the antenna base
>to the aircraft skin. Also paint is to be removed and to protect
>the aluminum against corrosion, the surface can be alodined. They
>then also mention using the mounting screws to provide a good ground
>as an alternate method with a couple of other stipulations. As well
>to test the bonding, a reading of .003 ohms between the base and the
>ground should be achieved.
>
>So since I'm mostly using Comant on my -10, I guess I will continue
>alodining. I will check to see what kind of readings I get with my VOM.
Your VOM is incapable of resolving resitance
measurements this low. A 4-wire, low ohms adapter
is called for. See:
http://tinyurl.com/4l3tuj6
If you're not inclined to roll your own,
this is another option . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9008/
Bob . . .
Message 28
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Subject: | Anyone interested in a 9lb battery/jumpstart kit? |
Hi Group
I have quite a few brand new sets of components from a Jump Start Battery:
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=550fc20dbddb521d&resid=550FC20DBDDB521D!413&parid=550FC20DBDDB521D!408&authkey=!ADA-L-1AURQ0PJU
We gutted the brand new jump start packs because we needed the case, volt meter,
flashlight and receptacles.
The set consists of one 9lb AGM sealed Lead Acid Battery, a 500mA constant current
charger with line cord (UL approved), 1 set of jumper cables a little shy
of 2 feet long, the charger control board that turns charging off at ~ 14.1 volts,
also a DC cord that you can charge from a 12 VDC source (Red LED turns off
when charging is complete) and a 15 amp resettable fuse that was attached to
a cigarette adapter.
I'm looking for $10 each plus shipping. They work great as a bench 12 volt source
or turning your 12 volt cordless drill into a corded version that you can use
the entire day. The local Battery Plus will give me 7$ each for just the battery
as scrap but it kills me to do that, all this stuff is brand new.
A little ingenuity will give you a nice jump start pack. Or buy a few hundred and
make packs and sell them.
I need to move them by the end of next month.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371691#371691
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