Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:36 AM - Re: Source for new Aerostart connectors? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:02 AM - Re: finding buried ac line (Bill Schertz)
3. 07:34 AM - Slice of history (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 03:31 PM - Re: Re: Ignition Interference (Richard Girard)
5. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Ignition Interference (Harley)
6. 05:26 PM - Re: Re: Ignition Interference (John MacCallum)
7. 05:29 PM - Challanging and perplexing (fedico94@mchsi.com)
8. 06:36 PM - Re: Challenging and perplexing (Bob McCallum)
9. 07:40 PM - Re: Challenging and perplexing (fedico94@mchsi.com)
10. 07:56 PM - Re: Challenging and perplexing (Jared Yates)
11. 08:03 PM - Re: Challenging and perplexing (Bob McCallum)
12. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Ignition Interference (David Lloyd)
13. 10:08 PM - Re: Ignition Interference (messydeer)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Source for new Aerostart connectors? |
At 05:58 PM 5/15/2012, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Are these connectors close to or what you can use....
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/jumpercables.php
>
>http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/tools/battery-tools.html
>
>They seemed to be called "Piper" type.....
Unfortunately, no. But thanks for looking! The
"Piper" style ground power plug is a Cole-Hersee
product
Emacs!
. . . first popularized by Piper for aircraft and
adopted by quite a few others. In fact so many that
FBO ground power carts are often fitted with mating
plugs.
The Aerostart product didn't seem to catch on and
only made it onto a few production models. It's sort
of the 'beta-max' of ground power connectors. Perfectly
good and perhaps even superior to the truck connector
but alas . . . for lack of a blessing and support by
a major manufacturer . . . it's toe hold in the marketplace
was tenuous at best.
I think if I owned an airplane fitted with an Aerostart,
I'd convert it to something more popular.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: finding buried ac line |
After whatever service you use (JULIE) in my area, still be very
careful.
Local Power company was installing a new utility pole at the end of my
driveway, had the professional marking done, proceeded to start drilling
the pole hole, and then a loud =98clang=99 followed by a
loud hissing noise, because they broke the natural gas line. Happened at
8 am and it was 3 pm before they got the gas shut off.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Phase one testing Completed
From: ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 7:17 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: finding buried ac line
I didn't see any message that answered the question, did I miss it?
Yup, you missed it!! Short answer is, call your utility and ask about
the free buried utilities locater service. They may not be right,
occasionally, but most of the time they hit it. In most cases it is the
law that you must contact them before digging or be liable for damages
to buried lines. Roger Do not archive
Message 3
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Subject: | Slice of history |
I had an opportunity to modernize the landing gear control box
for a 1940's era Harlow. Stripped out the guts of the box to
make room for modern relays. The wire used in this assembly was
cloth over rubber that was in surprisingly good shape . . . although
the airplane had not flown in a long time.
Emacs!
This was the best we knew how to do in 1940 . . .
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Interference |
Borrow a different radio or use a handheld connected through your antenna
system.
Rick Girard
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:05 AM, messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I'm having a major problem with RFI in my Jabiru 3300 Sonex. Radio is MGL
> V6, just out a few months ago. Antenna is a belly mounted homemade one made
> from a CB antenna. It's 22" long with a single bend, mounted ~2' behind the
> firewall, ~2' below the com radio. Bob made the cable, RGxxx, double
> shielded. I get ignition noise, left mag much worse than the right.
>
> What I've done
>
> Replaced spark plugs with resistive type. No difference.
>
> Disconnected the shielded P leads. No difference.
>
> Disconnected antenna, which cutout all noise. So I figure the noise is
> radiated, not conducted. I think I had the squelch all the way down, but
> it's possible it was turned up a little.
>
> Connected a separate battery. No difference.
>
> Put beads on coil to distributor leads, antenna, power and ground leads.
> No difference.
>
> Left mag makes 90% of the noise. Turned off left mag and pulled right plug
> wires sequentially. The right mag has always made a much slower 'tick' than
> the left, but still couldn't isolate it this way.
>
> Removed jacks and a switch that could have caused ground loops on the
> panel. No difference.
>
> Disconnected comm antenna (on belly, 2' aft of firewall) and connected
> radio to ELT antenna on top tailcone ~8-10' further back. Cut down noise,
> but still noticeable.
>
> Replaced left mag spark plug wires with Accel 300+ ferro spiral plug
> wires. No difference
>
> Swapped distributor caps. I was in a hurry to get my pilot up in the air,
> so didn't listen. He said there was no difference in flight. His
> transmissions were very poor. The only time he was easily understood was
> when he throttled back on final. He later told me the left and right were
> both noisy. Changing the distributor caps didn't seem to do anything. They
> also looked fine on the inside.
>
> Things I may try
>
> With the new plug wires in, connect the radio to the ELT antenna 8'
> further back on the tailcone. Comm antenna is belly mounted, 2' back of the
> firewall. I'd done this before the plug wire upgrade and it made a
> significant improvement, but the noise was still very noticeable.
>
> Connect a handheld to the comm antenna. If the noise goes away, it's gotta
> be the radio, since we've already ruled out noise via system conduction.
>
> Check the SWR. If this is reasonable to do, I'd prolly buy a meter for
> $50. My comm antenna is 22" long that I made from a cut down CB antenna. If
> it shows >3, I'd fix it or buy a real one.
>
> I'll make sure athe alternator leads going to the voltage regulator are
> twisted.
>
> Replace the coil to distributor lead with noiseless wire. Some have had
> success with this, but most have tamed the noise with beads after using
> noiseless plug wires. I don't want to replace this stock coil lead, since
> I'm not sure I could make a secure connection and I'm doubtful it would do
> any good.
>
> Any sugestions?
>
> --------
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373137#373137
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 5
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|
Subject: | Re: Ignition Interference |
I came across this on the Microaire website today...it's a bit
specific for strobe noise, but does go into other possible
sources and their elimination. Specifically mentioning ground
problems and how they can affect the radios. Even if you can't
use it (or already have!) it may make a good check list for
others here.
www.microair.com.au/admin/uploads/StrobeTroubleShooting1.pdf
Harley
-----------------------------------------------------------------
On 5/16/2012 6:29 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> Borrow a different radio or use a handheld connected through
> your antenna system.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:05 AM, messydeer
> <messydeer@yahoo.com <mailto:messydeer@yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> <messydeer@yahoo.com <mailto:messydeer@yahoo.com>>
>
> I'm having a major problem with RFI in my Jabiru 3300
> Sonex. Radio is MGL V6, just out a few months ago. Antenna
> is a belly mounted homemade one made from a CB antenna.
> It's 22" long with a single bend, mounted ~2' behind the
> firewall, ~2' below the com radio. Bob made the cable,
> RGxxx, double shielded. I get ignition noise, left mag much
> worse than the right.
>
> What I've done
>
> Replaced spark plugs with resistive type. No difference.
>
> Disconnected the shielded P leads. No difference.
>
> Disconnected antenna, which cutout all noise. So I figure
> the noise is radiated, not conducted. I think I had the
> squelch all the way down, but it's possible it was turned
> up a little.
>
> Connected a separate battery. No difference.
>
> Put beads on coil to distributor leads, antenna, power and
> ground leads. No difference.
>
> Left mag makes 90% of the noise. Turned off left mag and
> pulled right plug wires sequentially. The right mag has
> always made a much slower 'tick' than the left, but still
> couldn't isolate it this way.
>
> Removed jacks and a switch that could have caused ground
> loops on the panel. No difference.
>
> Disconnected comm antenna (on belly, 2' aft of firewall)
> and connected radio to ELT antenna on top tailcone ~8-10'
> further back. Cut down noise, but still noticeable.
>
> Replaced left mag spark plug wires with Accel 300+ ferro
> spiral plug wires. No difference
>
> Swapped distributor caps. I was in a hurry to get my pilot
> up in the air, so didn't listen. He said there was no
> difference in flight. His transmissions were very poor. The
> only time he was easily understood was when he throttled
> back on final. He later told me the left and right were
> both noisy. Changing the distributor caps didn't seem to do
> anything. They also looked fine on the inside.
>
> Things I may try
>
> With the new plug wires in, connect the radio to the ELT
> antenna 8' further back on the tailcone. Comm antenna is
> belly mounted, 2' back of the firewall. I'd done this
> before the plug wire upgrade and it made a significant
> improvement, but the noise was still very noticeable.
>
> Connect a handheld to the comm antenna. If the noise goes
> away, it's gotta be the radio, since we've already ruled
> out noise via system conduction.
>
> Check the SWR. If this is reasonable to do, I'd prolly buy
> a meter for $50. My comm antenna is 22" long that I made
> from a cut down CB antenna. If it shows >3, I'd fix it or
> buy a real one.
>
> I'll make sure athe alternator leads going to the voltage
> regulator are twisted.
>
> Replace the coil to distributor lead with noiseless wire.
> Some have had success with this, but most have tamed the
> noise with beads after using noiseless plug wires. I don't
> want to replace this stock coil lead, since I'm not sure I
> could make a secure connection and I'm doubtful it would do
> any good.
>
> Any sugestions?
>
> --------
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373137#373137
>
>
> ==========
> -List"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to
> be unhappy.
> - Groucho Marx
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Date: 05/16/12
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Interference |
Yes the Noise may be being radiated. However it shouldn't affect
transmission. If there is a problem with both Transmit and receive then look
to the
Antenna and Feedline or the radio itself.
I think that Jabiru Engines use Honda Lawn Mover Magnetos and Points. Check
or change the Suppression Capacitors on the Points. As you have already
Replaced the Plug Leads that's about all you can do other than check the
Grounding of the Engine to the rest of the Airframe.
By the way doing a quick check of a Qtr Wavelength at 120 MHz I get .
300/120=2.5
2.5/4=.625m
625mm/25.4=24.6 Inches
24.6*0.97=23.87 Inches.
127.5 MHz = 22.46 Inches
Bending he Antenna towards the ground plane (fuselage) will affect the both
the Feed point Impedance and the Resonant frequency. So
Get an SWR meter and have look at the SWR over the entire range. 118 to 137
Mhz
Cheers
John MAcCallum
RV10 Builder #41016
VH-DUU
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harley
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Ignition Interference
I came across this on the Microaire website today...it's a bit specific for
strobe noise, but does go into other possible sources and their elimination.
Specifically mentioning ground problems and how they can affect the radios.
Even if you can't use it (or already have!) it may make a good check list
for others here.
www.microair.com.au/admin/uploads/StrobeTroubleShooting1.pdf
Harley
_____
On 5/16/2012 6:29 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
Borrow a different radio or use a handheld connected through your antenna
system.
Rick Girard
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:05 AM, messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com> wrote:
I'm having a major problem with RFI in my Jabiru 3300 Sonex. Radio is MGL
V6, just out a few months ago. Antenna is a belly mounted homemade one made
from a CB antenna. It's 22" long with a single bend, mounted ~2' behind the
firewall, ~2' below the com radio. Bob made the cable, RGxxx, double
shielded. I get ignition noise, left mag much worse than the right.
What I've done
Replaced spark plugs with resistive type. No difference.
Disconnected the shielded P leads. No difference.
Disconnected antenna, which cutout all noise. So I figure the noise is
radiated, not conducted. I think I had the squelch all the way down, but
it's possible it was turned up a little.
Connected a separate battery. No difference.
Put beads on coil to distributor leads, antenna, power and ground leads. No
difference.
Left mag makes 90% of the noise. Turned off left mag and pulled right plug
wires sequentially. The right mag has always made a much slower 'tick' than
the left, but still couldn't isolate it this way.
Removed jacks and a switch that could have caused ground loops on the panel.
No difference.
Disconnected comm antenna (on belly, 2' aft of firewall) and connected radio
to ELT antenna on top tailcone ~8-10' further back. Cut down noise, but
still noticeable.
Replaced left mag spark plug wires with Accel 300+ ferro spiral plug wires.
No difference
Swapped distributor caps. I was in a hurry to get my pilot up in the air, so
didn't listen. He said there was no difference in flight. His transmissions
were very poor. The only time he was easily understood was when he throttled
back on final. He later told me the left and right were both noisy. Changing
the distributor caps didn't seem to do anything. They also looked fine on
the inside.
Things I may try
With the new plug wires in, connect the radio to the ELT antenna 8' further
back on the tailcone. Comm antenna is belly mounted, 2' back of the
firewall. I'd done this before the plug wire upgrade and it made a
significant improvement, but the noise was still very noticeable.
Connect a handheld to the comm antenna. If the noise goes away, it's gotta
be the radio, since we've already ruled out noise via system conduction.
Check the SWR. If this is reasonable to do, I'd prolly buy a meter for $50.
My comm antenna is 22" long that I made from a cut down CB antenna. If it
shows >3, I'd fix it or buy a real one.
I'll make sure athe alternator leads going to the voltage regulator are
twisted.
Replace the coil to distributor lead with noiseless wire. Some have had
success with this, but most have tamed the noise with beads after using
noiseless plug wires. I don't want to replace this stock coil lead, since
I'm not sure I could make a secure connection and I'm doubtful it would do
any good.
Any sugestions?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373137#373137
==========
-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/16/12
Message 7
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Subject: | Challanging and perplexing |
I built my electrical system per Z-13/20. On 2 seperate occassions I found that
someone had moved the E-Bus Alt Mater Switch to engage the only the Battery.
The first time they turned on the strobes and ran the battery down and this
was quikly reversed with recharging the battery (PC680)from 5.6 volts. This occurred
a second time probably the radios left on. I had the battery recharged
and it shows 12V on the handheld meter. The E-bus Alt Master Switch will not
allow the battery solenoid to "click" on (purchased from B & C). I by passed
this with an 18ga wire so as to connect the battery positive terminal directly
to the main power bus distribution side of the battery contactor. I have 10
volts showing through the main power bus and E-bus. I engaged the avionics
fan from the e-bus by pushing in the CB and the fan motor did not engage. I tried
the same with the defroster fan at the switch and the motor did not turn
on. Both of these are low amperage and both showed 10 amps power with the handheld
voltmeter downstream of the CB and Switch. No electrical item (all that
I have radios etc will not come on.
I do not understand what the problem is ? The person who recharged my battery
said it recharged in 2 hours and only drew about 2 amps.
Message 8
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Subject: | Challenging and perplexing |
Sounds like your battery is dead. If the battery itself is only showing 12
volts it is not properly charged, it should be significantly higher than
that (somewhere in the 12.4 volt range) and if the buss is showing only 10
volts with minimal loads the battery is dead.
Try substituting a fully charged known good battery just as a test and
probably all will be well. (Assuming everything used to work properly.) A
battery which has been discharged as low as 5.6 volts may not recover.
Discharging a battery that far can sometimes be a death sentence for the
battery.
I just went to the garage and measured a battery which has been sitting
unused and uncharged for about 18 months and it still measures 12.18 volts
so if your freshly charged battery is only 12 volts it has serious issues.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94@mchsi.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 8:29 PM
> To: Nuckolls, Robert
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Challanging and perplexing
>
>
> I built my electrical system per Z-13/20. On 2 seperate occassions I
found that
> someone had moved the E-Bus Alt Mater Switch to engage the only the
Battery. The
> first time they turned on the strobes and ran the battery down and this
was quikly
> reversed with recharging the battery (PC680)from 5.6 volts. This occurred
a second
> time probably the radios left on. I had the battery recharged and it
shows 12V on the
> handheld meter. The E-bus Alt Master Switch will not allow the battery
solenoid to
> "click" on (purchased from B & C). I by passed this with an 18ga wire so
as to connect
> the battery positive terminal directly to the main power bus distribution
side of the
> battery contactor. I have 10 volts showing through the main power bus and
E-bus. I
> engaged the avionics fan from the e-bus by pushing in the CB and the fan
motor did
> not engage. I tried the same with the defroster fan at the switch and the
motor did
> not turn on. Both of these are low amperage and both showed !
> 10 amps power with the handheld voltmeter downstream of the CB and
Switch. No
> electrical item (all that I have radios etc will not come on.
>
> I do not understand what the problem is ? The person who recharged my
battery said
> it recharged in 2 hours and only drew about 2 amps.
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Challenging and perplexing |
That was my first thought, but I would think a samll motor drawing 0.5 amps would
still come on with some life. I thought I would inquire first before buying
a 25 dollar garden tractor battery. If that works then I will upgrade to the
90 dollar PC680. I did not see any problem with melted wires that supply ground
at forest of tabs. A grounding fault was another thought.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Wed, 16 May 2012 20:34:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Challenging and perplexing
Sounds like your battery is dead. If the battery itself is only showing 12
volts it is not properly charged, it should be significantly higher than
that (somewhere in the 12.4 volt range) and if the buss is showing only 10
volts with minimal loads the battery is dead.
Try substituting a fully charged known good battery just as a test and
probably all will be well. (Assuming everything used to work properly.) A
battery which has been discharged as low as 5.6 volts may not recover.
Discharging a battery that far can sometimes be a death sentence for the
battery.
I just went to the garage and measured a battery which has been sitting
unused and uncharged for about 18 months and it still measures 12.18 volts
so if your freshly charged battery is only 12 volts it has serious issues.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94@mchsi.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 8:29 PM
> To: Nuckolls, Robert
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Challanging and perplexing
>
>
> I built my electrical system per Z-13/20. On 2 seperate occassions I
found that
> someone had moved the E-Bus Alt Mater Switch to engage the only the
Battery. The
> first time they turned on the strobes and ran the battery down and this
was quikly
> reversed with recharging the battery (PC680)from 5.6 volts. This occurred
a second
> time probably the radios left on. I had the battery recharged and it
shows 12V on the
> handheld meter. The E-bus Alt Master Switch will not allow the battery
solenoid to
> "click" on (purchased from B & C). I by passed this with an 18ga wire so
as to connect
> the battery positive terminal directly to the main power bus distribution
side of the
> battery contactor. I have 10 volts showing through the main power bus and
E-bus. I
> engaged the avionics fan from the e-bus by pushing in the CB and the fan
motor did
> not engage. I tried the same with the defroster fan at the switch and the
motor did
> not turn on. Both of these are low amperage and both showed !
> 10 amps power with the handheld voltmeter downstream of the CB and
Switch. No
> electrical item (all that I have radios etc will not come on.
>
> I do not understand what the problem is ? The person who recharged my
battery said
> it recharged in 2 hours and only drew about 2 amps.
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Challenging and perplexing |
Unless you are in the market for a tractor battery, could you not just
run jumper cables from your car?
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 10:36 PM, <fedico94@mchsi.com> wrote:
>
> That was my first thought, but I would think a samll motor drawing 0.5 amps would
still come on with some life. I thought I would inquire first before buying
a 25 dollar garden tractor battery. If that works then I will upgrade to the
90 dollar PC680. I did not see any problem with melted wires that supply ground
at forest of tabs. A grounding fault was another thought.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, 16 May 2012 20:34:23 -0500 (CDT)
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Challenging and perplexing
>
>
> Sounds like your battery is dead. If the battery itself is only showing 12
> volts it is not properly charged, it should be significantly higher than
> that (somewhere in the 12.4 volt range) and if the buss is showing only 10
> volts with minimal loads the battery is dead.
>
> Try substituting a fully charged known good battery just as a test and
> probably all will be well. (Assuming everything used to work properly.) A
> battery which has been discharged as low as 5.6 volts may not recover.
> Discharging a battery that far can sometimes be a death sentence for the
> battery.
>
> I just went to the garage and measured a battery which has been sitting
> unused and uncharged for about 18 months and it still measures 12.18 volts
> so if your freshly charged battery is only 12 volts it has serious issues.
>
> Bob McC
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94@mchsi.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 8:29 PM
>> To: Nuckolls, Robert
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Challanging and perplexing
>>
>>
>> I built my electrical system per Z-13/20. On 2 seperate occassions I
> found that
>> someone had moved the E-Bus Alt Mater Switch to engage the only the
> Battery. The
>> first time they turned on the strobes and ran the battery down and this
> was quikly
>> reversed with recharging the battery (PC680)from 5.6 volts. This occurred
> a second
>> time probably the radios left on. I had the battery recharged and it
> shows 12V on the
>> handheld meter. The E-bus Alt Master Switch will not allow the battery
> solenoid to
>> "click" on (purchased from B & C). I by passed this with an 18ga wire so
> as to connect
>> the battery positive terminal directly to the main power bus distribution
> side of the
>> battery contactor. I have 10 volts showing through the main power bus and
> E-bus. I
>> engaged the avionics fan from the e-bus by pushing in the CB and the fan
> motor did
>> not engage. I tried the same with the defroster fan at the switch and the
> motor did
>> not turn on. Both of these are low amperage and both showed !
>> 10 amps power with the handheld voltmeter downstream of the CB and
> Switch. No
>> electrical item (all that I have radios etc will not come on.
>>
>> I do not understand what the problem is ? The person who recharged my
> battery said
>> it recharged in 2 hours and only drew about 2 amps.
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Challenging and perplexing |
Rather than buying a battery for just testing either borrow one or simply
use your car battery (with jumper cables if necessary) for a test.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94@mchsi.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:37 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Challenging and perplexing
>
>
> That was my first thought, but I would think a samll motor drawing 0.5
amps would
> still come on with some life. I thought I would inquire first before
buying a 25 dollar
> garden tractor battery. If that works then I will upgrade to the 90
dollar PC680. I did
> not see any problem with melted wires that supply ground at forest of
tabs. A
> grounding fault was another thought.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, 16 May 2012 20:34:23 -0500 (CDT)
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Challenging and perplexing
>
> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Sounds like your battery is dead. If the battery itself is only showing 12
> volts it is not properly charged, it should be significantly higher than
> that (somewhere in the 12.4 volt range) and if the buss is showing only 10
> volts with minimal loads the battery is dead.
>
> Try substituting a fully charged known good battery just as a test and
> probably all will be well. (Assuming everything used to work properly.) A
> battery which has been discharged as low as 5.6 volts may not recover.
> Discharging a battery that far can sometimes be a death sentence for the
> battery.
>
> I just went to the garage and measured a battery which has been sitting
> unused and uncharged for about 18 months and it still measures 12.18 volts
> so if your freshly charged battery is only 12 volts it has serious issues.
>
> Bob McC
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94@mchsi.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 8:29 PM
> > To: Nuckolls, Robert
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Challanging and perplexing
> >
> >
> > I built my electrical system per Z-13/20. On 2 seperate occassions I
> found that
> > someone had moved the E-Bus Alt Mater Switch to engage the only the
> Battery. The
> > first time they turned on the strobes and ran the battery down and this
> was quikly
> > reversed with recharging the battery (PC680)from 5.6 volts. This
occurred
> a second
> > time probably the radios left on. I had the battery recharged and it
> shows 12V on the
> > handheld meter. The E-bus Alt Master Switch will not allow the battery
> solenoid to
> > "click" on (purchased from B & C). I by passed this with an 18ga wire
so
> as to connect
> > the battery positive terminal directly to the main power bus
distribution
> side of the
> > battery contactor. I have 10 volts showing through the main power bus
and
> E-bus. I
> > engaged the avionics fan from the e-bus by pushing in the CB and the fan
> motor did
> > not engage. I tried the same with the defroster fan at the switch and
the
> motor did
> > not turn on. Both of these are low amperage and both showed !
> > 10 amps power with the handheld voltmeter downstream of the CB and
> Switch. No
> > electrical item (all that I have radios etc will not come on.
> >
> > I do not understand what the problem is ? The person who recharged my
> battery said
> > it recharged in 2 hours and only drew about 2 amps.
> >
> >
> > _-
> >
> ====================================================
> > ======
> > _-
> >
> ====================================================
> > ======
> > _-
> >
> ====================================================
> > ======
> > _-
> >
> ====================================================
> > ======
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Ignition Interference |
..joining this thread late...
I assume that you have a large, well connected ground cable from the
engine case to the aircraft frame...??
D
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: Harley
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Ignition Interference
I came across this on the Microaire website today...it's a bit
specific for strobe noise, but does go into other possible sources and
their elimination. Specifically mentioning ground problems and how they
can affect the radios. Even if you can't use it (or already have!) it
may make a good check list for others here.
www.microair.com.au/admin/uploads/StrobeTroubleShooting1.pdf
Harley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
On 5/16/2012 6:29 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
Borrow a different radio or use a handheld connected through your
antenna system.
Rick Girard
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:05 AM, messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com>
wrote:
<messydeer@yahoo.com>
I'm having a major problem with RFI in my Jabiru 3300 Sonex. Radio
is MGL V6, just out a few months ago. Antenna is a belly mounted
homemade one made from a CB antenna. It's 22" long with a single bend,
mounted ~2' behind the firewall, ~2' below the com radio. Bob made the
cable, RGxxx, double shielded. I get ignition noise, left mag much worse
than the right.
What I've done
Replaced spark plugs with resistive type. No difference.
Disconnected the shielded P leads. No difference.
Disconnected antenna, which cutout all noise. So I figure the
noise is radiated, not conducted. I think I had the squelch all the way
down, but it's possible it was turned up a little.
Connected a separate battery. No difference.
Put beads on coil to distributor leads, antenna, power and ground
leads. No difference.
Left mag makes 90% of the noise. Turned off left mag and pulled
right plug wires sequentially. The right mag has always made a much
slower 'tick' than the left, but still couldn't isolate it this way.
Removed jacks and a switch that could have caused ground loops on
the panel. No difference.
Disconnected comm antenna (on belly, 2' aft of firewall) and
connected radio to ELT antenna on top tailcone ~8-10' further back. Cut
down noise, but still noticeable.
Replaced left mag spark plug wires with Accel 300+ ferro spiral
plug wires. No difference
Swapped distributor caps. I was in a hurry to get my pilot up in
the air, so didn't listen. He said there was no difference in flight.
His transmissions were very poor. The only time he was easily understood
was when he throttled back on final. He later told me the left and right
were both noisy. Changing the distributor caps didn't seem to do
anything. They also looked fine on the inside.
Things I may try
With the new plug wires in, connect the radio to the ELT antenna
8' further back on the tailcone. Comm antenna is belly mounted, 2' back
of the firewall. I'd done this before the plug wire upgrade and it made
a significant improvement, but the noise was still very noticeable.
Connect a handheld to the comm antenna. If the noise goes away,
it's gotta be the radio, since we've already ruled out noise via system
conduction.
Check the SWR. If this is reasonable to do, I'd prolly buy a meter
for $50. My comm antenna is 22" long that I made from a cut down CB
antenna. If it shows >3, I'd fix it or buy a real one.
I'll make sure athe alternator leads going to the voltage
regulator are twisted.
Replace the coil to distributor lead with noiseless wire. Some
have had success with this, but most have tamed the noise with beads
after using noiseless plug wires. I don't want to replace this stock
coil lead, since I'm not sure I could make a secure connection and I'm
doubtful it would do any good.
Any sugestions?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373137#373137
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--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be
unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/16/12
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Interference |
> you have a large, well connected ground cable
Yes
> . If there is a problem with both Transmit and receive then look to the
> Antenna and Feedline or the radio itself.
Seems reasonable. A hangar neighbor dropped off his SWR meter. I'll get an adapter
and check things tomorrow.
Thanks!
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373209#373209
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