Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:13 AM - Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications (Ralph E. Capen)
2. 07:31 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 06/07/12 (Franz Fux)
3. 07:47 AM - Re: Avionics-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications (Ralph E. Capen)
4. 09:52 AM - Re: 9lb battery/jumpstart kits, all orders shipped except three orders I received over the last few days. (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
5. 01:17 PM - 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 01:56 PM - Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (rayj)
7. 05:54 PM - Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (rparigoris)
8. 06:31 PM - Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:53 PM - Re: Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (rayj)
10. 08:45 PM - Re: Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (rayj)
11. 08:58 PM - Re: Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
12. 09:10 PM - Lead Crystal Batteries, does anybody have any experience? (rparigoris)
13. 09:21 PM - Re: Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
14. 10:09 PM - Re: Lead Crystal Batteries, does anybody have any experience? (John Loram)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications |
In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can perform
the tests.
Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make the logbook
entry.
Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have already
built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verified the altitude
goung to the transponder is correct.
Thoughts please,
Ralph
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 06/07/12 |
only intermittent access to e-mail until June 19th, in an urgent matter contact
info@lastfrontierheli.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static |
certifications
Thanks - I figured there would be some weasel-wording in there.
Since I have already done most of the tests, I have a high confidence level in
taking it to a 'certified' shop.
Good scoop!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>Sent: Jun 8, 2012 10:22 AM
>To: avionics-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Avionics-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>--> Avionics-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>
>A common misconception. Yes you built your aircraft. That does not make
>you a "manufacturer" in the terms of these regulations.
>You need the transponder certified by someone with a repair station
>license. There is no certification of the pitot system, only the static
>system. The only reason the pitot is connected to the test is to protect
>your airspeed indicator from an excessive pressure difference with the
>static port.
>You can leak test your static system if you ever need to open it between
>the required certifications, and that is legal, but the certification
>must be done by an appropriately rated repair station.
>Kelly McMullen
>A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
>
>On 6/8/2012 6:46 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>> --> Avionics-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>>
>> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can perform
the tests.
>>
>> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make the
logbook entry.
>>
>> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have already
built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verified the
altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>>
>> Thoughts please,
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | 9lb battery/jumpstart kits, all orders shipped |
except three orders I received over the last few days.
All orders have been shipped except for three I received over the last
few
days. Those will ship within the next week.
Your order has a scheduled delivery 06-06-2012. I will be sending out a
second round of particulars within the hour.
Ron Parigoris
Received my 2 batteries. They arrived in good condition, and as
specified.
I ran a capacity check on one of the batteries, after a top off with my
Schumacher SC600A charger/maintainer,
and found that connecting a 65 W headlamp gave me an average current
slightly under 5 Amps. At this load
the battery reached 10V, and dropping fast, at about 1hr 45min. A quick
calculation gave me about 8AH of
capacity. I don't have the spec sheet for this battery but a random
17AH
battery spec sheet shows in the
vicinity of 11 to 12AH at this current level. I have not run a capacity
check with a current drain of less than
1amp, as they normally do to calculate the published capacity, but
assume
that it will increase considerably.
Don't misinterpret my results as saying I am disappointed. To the
contrary,
these $10 batteries are more than
ample for my extensive ground testing that I will be doing over the next
several months.
As far as I am concerned, It was an excellent deal, and THANK YOU RON
for
making this available to us at no
profit to yourself, just a lot of work.
Roger
Message 5
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| Subject: | 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
I ran a capacity check on one of the batteries, after a top off with
my Schumacher SC600A charger/maintainer, and found that connecting a
65 W headlamp gave me an average current slightly under 5 Amps. At
this load the battery reached 10V, and dropping fast, at about 1hr
45min. A quick calculation gave me about 8AH of capacity. I don't
have the spec sheet for this battery but a random 17AH battery spec
sheet shows in the vicinity of 11 to 12AH at this current level. I
have not run a capacity check with a current drain of less than 1
amp, as they normally do to calculate the published capacity, but
assume that it will increase considerably.
Don't misinterpret my results as saying I am disappointed. To the
contrary, these $10 batteries are more than ample for my extensive
ground testing that I will be doing over the next several months.
As far as I am concerned, It was an excellent deal, and THANK YOU RON
for making this available to us at no profit to yourself, just a lot of work.
I think we had some discussions about these batteries
when Ron firs wrote about them on the List. Given their
light weight in comparison to the garden variety 17 a.h.
devices, it was surmised that these batteries were either
labeled in either in error or as a product of wishful
thinking. Older lead acid technologies ran about .8 a.h.
per pound with modern SVLA versions running in the 1.1
a.h. per pound of finished weight. So your experimental
results are consistent with the weight.
I have two on order . . . are probably at the post office
waiting for me. When the grandson wakes up from his nap, well
go get 'em. I get out the WMR cap meter and plot some curves
on them.
Agreed, Ron's dedication to keeping perfectly good batteries
out of the recycle stream and into the hands of potential
users is commendable!
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
Greetings,
One of the batteries I ordered was smashed on one corner when It
arrived. A little feeling around revealed a space about 1" deep on the
bottom of the battery. That might account for the weight. :)
Glad to get them and the other misc parts. If someone comes up with a
cartoon on how to hook the parts up it would save a lot of work for
people like me.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
On 06/08/2012 03:16 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> I ran a capacity check on one of the batteries, after a top off with my
> Schumacher SC600A charger/maintainer, and found that connecting a 65 W
> headlamp gave me an average current slightly under 5 Amps. At this load
> the battery reached 10V, and dropping fast, at about 1hr 45min. A quick
> calculation gave me about 8AH of capacity. I don't have the spec sheet
> for this battery but a random 17AH battery spec sheet shows in the
> vicinity of 11 to 12AH at this current level. I have not run a capacity
> check with a current drain of less than 1 amp, as they normally do to
> calculate the published capacity, but assume that it will increase
> considerably.
>
> Don't misinterpret my results as saying I am disappointed. To the
> contrary, these $10 batteries are more than ample for my extensive
> ground testing that I will be doing over the next several months.
>
> As far as I am concerned, It was an excellent deal, and THANK YOU RON
> for making this available to us at no profit to yourself, just a lot of
> work.
>
>
> I think we had some discussions about these batteries
> when Ron firs wrote about them on the List. Given their
> light weight in comparison to the garden variety 17 a.h.
> devices, it was surmised that these batteries were either
> labeled in either in error or as a product of wishful
> thinking. Older lead acid technologies ran about .8 a.h.
> per pound with modern SVLA versions running in the 1.1
> a.h. per pound of finished weight. So your experimental
> results are consistent with the weight.
>
> I have two on order . . . are probably at the post office
> waiting for me. When the grandson wakes up from his nap, well
> go get 'em. I get out the WMR cap meter and plot some curves
> on them.
>
> Agreed, Ron's dedication to keeping perfectly good batteries
> out of the recycle stream and into the hands of potential
> users is commendable!
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
Hi Raymond
Hmm, I sent this through my ISP an hour and a half ago but it never posted? Here
it goes again through Matronics:
"how to hook the parts"
Here is some insight to the 9 pound batteries:
**At a 1/10C discharge, capacity is not far off from a 9aH battery. They weigh
about 9 pounds. A 17 or 18aH battery with approximately the same dimensions but
really has 17 or 18aH capacity is 13 or more pounds. The best deal we found
for the purchase of 500 batteries was 30$ each and we had to pay for shipping.
There is nothing wrong with the 9aH batteries except they are 9aHs.
**The 9aH batteries are very happy being charged with the supplied charger which
is a constant current charger and turns off at ~14.5 volts. They are pretty
happy being charged at a 1,000mA rate, so if you parallel two of the supplied
chargers, that works fine or I my Yuasa (battery tender rip off) charger 1,000
mA charger. We have a 3,000mA three stage charger and it kinda works, it sometimes
will not give as good a charge as the 500 mA or 1,000mA charger. I find
that after charging and waiting a day, if you have `13 volts ar so the battery
is fully charged. Sometimes the 3,000mA charger does not get the battery to that
level.
**If you allow the battery to fall below 50% charge state and sit there for a while
(12.4 volts) it can get hurt. I found that the very best way to bring a battery
that got hurt back to life is to use the 500mA charger and charge control
board and let it peak (red LED turns off meaning that it reached at least ~
14.5 volts). Then connect the battery directly to the 500mA transformer and chase
the voltage till it gets to 15.5 volts and turn it off. We have saved batteries
in the field by doing this countless times. We are talking it may take
a few days in a bad case battery to get to 15.5 volts.
As far as hooking up the chargers, it is very simple.
Connect a source (2 wires) and connect output (2 wires) to the battery.
INPUT:
There are two ways to hook up the input, from the back of the board or the front.
To hook up from the back, hook up the transformer positive (black wire with
white stripe) to the tail of a wire (black wire with white stripe) and do the
same with the negative wires. Some transformers are already connected, some were
cut off.Or you can connect the input through the front side of the control
board. i supplied a wire with athe proper connector attached to it to fit the
female recepticle on the front of the board. Connect positive to black wire (with
white stripe) and negative to the black wire. You can use the supplied transformer,
or you can use a 12 volt source. Note you will not get a full charge
from a static 12 volt battery, but can get close from a running vehicle. There
was a male cigarette plug that came connected to this wire.
OK now for the output, this is the side that connects to your battery..
Connect red to the positive of the battery and black to the negative of the battery.
Solder or use a clip to connect to the positive bus on the board: R3, R2,D4,R6,R7
and connect to the positive of the battery.
Solder or clip to the negative bus. It is the three holes to the right of the R5
resistor and connect to the negative of the battery.
When the LED D3 is on and the battery is connected, you are charging, when the
Red LED D3 goes off the battery is charged (it means it peaked at ~ 14.5 volts).
Now you can disconnect your battery.
NOTE, if you put another discharged battery on the charger it will not begin a
charge cycle until you disconnect the input power for at least a few seconds to
unlatch a latched holding relay. Give it a try for yourself, put a battery on
charge and get the Red LED to come on. Now disconnect an output lead and you
will hear a click and the Red LED will go off. If you reconnect the output lead
the Red LED will remain off. Now leaving the output connected to the control
board, disconnect the input power for a few seconds. You will hear a click and
see the LED flash shortly. Now reconnect the input power and you will again
see the RED is on.
Good Luck!
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375058#375058
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
At 03:55 PM 6/8/2012, you wrote:
>
>Greetings,
>
>One of the batteries I ordered was smashed on one corner when It
>arrived. A little feeling around revealed a space about 1" deep on
>the bottom of the battery. That might account for the weight. :)
Interesting. I would have guessed that these batteries are
something like a 12 a.h. battery running around in 17 a.h.
clothing! I've got #1 battery on 1A discharge test now. #2
battery is back on the charger after having dumped 180A @
9V for 15 seconds in a cranking test.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
That's what I needed, thanks Ron.
Will treating larger 12V lead acid batteries with the 15.5v voltage do
the same thing as far as restoring some life to them? I assume it will
but I figured I'd ask.
Later,
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 06/08/2012 07:51 PM, rparigoris wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rparigoris"<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Hi Raymond
>
> Hmm, I sent this through my ISP an hour and a half ago but it never posted? Here
it goes again through Matronics:
>
> "how to hook the parts"
>
> Here is some insight to the 9 pound batteries:
>
> **At a 1/10C discharge, capacity is not far off from a 9aH battery. They weigh
about 9 pounds. A 17 or 18aH battery with approximately the same dimensions
but really has 17 or 18aH capacity is 13 or more pounds. The best deal we found
for the purchase of 500 batteries was 30$ each and we had to pay for shipping.
There is nothing wrong with the 9aH batteries except they are 9aHs.
>
> **The 9aH batteries are very happy being charged with the supplied charger which
is a constant current charger and turns off at ~14.5 volts. They are pretty
happy being charged at a 1,000mA rate, so if you parallel two of the supplied
chargers, that works fine or I my Yuasa (battery tender rip off) charger 1,000
mA charger. We have a 3,000mA three stage charger and it kinda works, it sometimes
will not give as good a charge as the 500 mA or 1,000mA charger. I find
that after charging and waiting a day, if you have `13 volts ar so the battery
is fully charged. Sometimes the 3,000mA charger does not get the battery to
that level.
>
> **If you allow the battery to fall below 50% charge state and sit there for a
while (12.4 volts) it can get hurt. I found that the very best way to bring a
battery that got hurt back to life is to use the 500mA charger and charge control
board and let it peak (red LED turns off meaning that it reached at least
~ 14.5 volts). Then connect the battery directly to the 500mA transformer and
chase the voltage till it gets to 15.5 volts and turn it off. We have saved batteries
in the field by doing this countless times. We are talking it may take
a few days in a bad case battery to get to 15.5 volts.
>
> As far as hooking up the chargers, it is very simple.
>
> Connect a source (2 wires) and connect output (2 wires) to the battery.
>
> INPUT:
>
> There are two ways to hook up the input, from the back of the board or the front.
To hook up from the back, hook up the transformer positive (black wire with
white stripe) to the tail of a wire (black wire with white stripe) and do the
same with the negative wires. Some transformers are already connected, some
were cut off.Or you can connect the input through the front side of the control
board. i supplied a wire with athe proper connector attached to it to fit the
female recepticle on the front of the board. Connect positive to black wire
(with white stripe) and negative to the black wire. You can use the supplied
transformer, or you can use a 12 volt source. Note you will not get a full charge
from a static 12 volt battery, but can get close from a running vehicle. There
was a male cigarette plug that came connected to this wire.
>
> OK now for the output, this is the side that connects to your battery..
>
> Connect red to the positive of the battery and black to the negative of the battery.
>
> Solder or use a clip to connect to the positive bus on the board: R3, R2,D4,R6,R7
and connect to the positive of the battery.
>
> Solder or clip to the negative bus. It is the three holes to the right of the
R5 resistor and connect to the negative of the battery.
>
> When the LED D3 is on and the battery is connected, you are charging, when the
Red LED D3 goes off the battery is charged (it means it peaked at ~ 14.5 volts).
Now you can disconnect your battery.
>
> NOTE, if you put another discharged battery on the charger it will not begin
a charge cycle until you disconnect the input power for at least a few seconds
to unlatch a latched holding relay. Give it a try for yourself, put a battery
on charge and get the Red LED to come on. Now disconnect an output lead and you
will hear a click and the Red LED will go off. If you reconnect the output
lead the Red LED will remain off. Now leaving the output connected to the control
board, disconnect the input power for a few seconds. You will hear a click
and see the LED flash shortly. Now reconnect the input power and you will again
see the RED is on.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375058#375058
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
Ron, any recommendations on using the 15 amp breaker?
I was just looking over the charger boards and noticed one of the
resistor leads got clipped when the wires were being cut. It's the end
of R3 by where the red wire was cut. It would be easy to over look.
Just an FYI in case someone has a problem.
Later,
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 06/08/2012 09:51 PM, rayj wrote:
>
> That's what I needed, thanks Ron.
>
> Will treating larger 12V lead acid batteries with the 15.5v voltage do
> the same thing as far as restoring some life to them? I assume it will
> but I figured I'd ask.
>
> Later,
> Raymond Julian
> Kettle River, MN.
>
> "And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
> and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
>
> On 06/08/2012 07:51 PM, rparigoris wrote:
>> "rparigoris"<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>>
>> Hi Raymond
>>
>> Hmm, I sent this through my ISP an hour and a half ago but it never
>> posted? Here it goes again through Matronics:
>>
>> "how to hook the parts"
>>
>> Here is some insight to the 9 pound batteries:
>>
>> **At a 1/10C discharge, capacity is not far off from a 9aH battery.
>> They weigh about 9 pounds. A 17 or 18aH battery with approximately the
>> same dimensions but really has 17 or 18aH capacity is 13 or more
>> pounds. The best deal we found for the purchase of 500 batteries was
>> 30$ each and we had to pay for shipping. There is nothing wrong with
>> the 9aH batteries except they are 9aHs.
>>
>> **The 9aH batteries are very happy being charged with the supplied
>> charger which is a constant current charger and turns off at ~14.5
>> volts. They are pretty happy being charged at a 1,000mA rate, so if
>> you parallel two of the supplied chargers, that works fine or I my
>> Yuasa (battery tender rip off) charger 1,000 mA charger. We have a
>> 3,000mA three stage charger and it kinda works, it sometimes will not
>> give as good a charge as the 500 mA or 1,000mA charger. I find that
>> after charging and waiting a day, if you have `13 volts ar so the
>> battery is fully charged. Sometimes the 3,000mA charger does not get
>> the battery to that level.
>>
>> **If you allow the battery to fall below 50% charge state and sit
>> there for a while (12.4 volts) it can get hurt. I found that the very
>> best way to bring a battery that got hurt back to life is to use the
>> 500mA charger and charge control board and let it peak (red LED turns
>> off meaning that it reached at least ~ 14.5 volts). Then connect the
>> battery directly to the 500mA transformer and chase the voltage till
>> it gets to 15.5 volts and turn it off. We have saved batteries in the
>> field by doing this countless times. We are talking it may take a few
>> days in a bad case battery to get to 15.5 volts.
>>
>> As far as hooking up the chargers, it is very simple.
>>
>> Connect a source (2 wires) and connect output (2 wires) to the battery.
>>
>> INPUT:
>>
>> There are two ways to hook up the input, from the back of the board or
>> the front. To hook up from the back, hook up the transformer positive
>> (black wire with white stripe) to the tail of a wire (black wire with
>> white stripe) and do the same with the negative wires. Some
>> transformers are already connected, some were cut off.Or you can
>> connect the input through the front side of the control board. i
>> supplied a wire with athe proper connector attached to it to fit the
>> female recepticle on the front of the board. Connect positive to black
>> wire (with white stripe) and negative to the black wire. You can use
>> the supplied transformer, or you can use a 12 volt source. Note you
>> will not get a full charge from a static 12 volt battery, but can get
>> close from a running vehicle. There was a male cigarette plug that
>> came connected to this wire.
>>
>> OK now for the output, this is the side that connects to your battery..
>>
>> Connect red to the positive of the battery and black to the negative
>> of the battery.
>>
>> Solder or use a clip to connect to the positive bus on the board: R3,
>> R2,D4,R6,R7 and connect to the positive of the battery.
>>
>> Solder or clip to the negative bus. It is the three holes to the right
>> of the R5 resistor and connect to the negative of the battery.
>>
>> When the LED D3 is on and the battery is connected, you are charging,
>> when the Red LED D3 goes off the battery is charged (it means it
>> peaked at ~ 14.5 volts). Now you can disconnect your battery.
>>
>> NOTE, if you put another discharged battery on the charger it will not
>> begin a charge cycle until you disconnect the input power for at least
>> a few seconds to unlatch a latched holding relay. Give it a try for
>> yourself, put a battery on charge and get the Red LED to come on. Now
>> disconnect an output lead and you will hear a click and the Red LED
>> will go off. If you reconnect the output lead the Red LED will remain
>> off. Now leaving the output connected to the control board, disconnect
>> the input power for a few seconds. You will hear a click and see the
>> LED flash shortly. Now reconnect the input power and you will again
>> see the RED is on.
>>
>> Good Luck!
>>
>> Ron Parigoris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375058#375058
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
Hi Raymond
"> Will treating larger 12V lead acid batteries with the 15.5v
voltage do
> the same thing as far as restoring some life to them? I assume it
will
> but I figured I'd ask."
Off the cuff I would say it could perhaps help, but all lead batteries
are not created equal.
I tried putting two 500mA transformers on the 9 pound batteries (no
charge controller) because it took so long to reach 15.5 with one, but
didn't like the noises that started to come out from the battery.
Perhaps Ok but if quiet I could hear a bubbling.
I know that some chargers have a pulse or de-sulfated boost cycle, but
all batteries probably do not react the same.
Bob N., what secrets have you found for helping to bring back a battery
that has either been left below 50% for a while?
Ron Parigoris
BTW, when I was a young kid (9-12) making electric 2, 3 and 4 wheeled
vehicles, the batteries we used for the most part were used batteries
from my parents cars that were no longer very reliable. Dad and I would
empty out the acid, hand cut them apart with a large wood saw, scoop out
the white goop that collected in the bottom and hit the plates with a
brush and garden hose cleaning off white goop. Reassemble with some black
tar type sealant and refill with acid. If we were lucky we would have
fresh acid mix, but more often than not we would charge the batteries
first, and we would use only the acid from cells that would take a charge
according to the hydrometer. We would drill holes in the batteries so we
could screw hardware in the bus so we could charge the good cells
together. There were only some 12 volt batteries we could do this with.
More 6 volt cells were happier to be dissected. The best success I ever
had was putting together a 7 cell battery made from 6 volt batteries
(dissected and de-sulfated) on a three wheeled vehicle that fit under our
workbench using a 12 volt Ford starter motor. The secret was the motor
cooling, I used a 1 gallon milk jug with a few small holes that leaked
water on the motor to keep it cool enough to get some time on it. 8 cells
would burn things up even with cooling after a short time, but because it
drew more amps, distance was quite a bit shorter than 7 cells with not
much extra speed. 7 cells was pretty exciting. 5 cells and regearing
would give greatest distance, but at grandma speed. In order to easily
charge these odd number of cells with either a 6 or 12 volt charger, I
would always have some spare cells hanging around. These were abtteries
that I would only leave 1 cell left but leave the rest of the battery
case that was terrific to put all model aeroplane flying gear in. A
mutilated solenoid from a copier was wound to make the perfect resistor
so i didn't burn up the 1.5 volt glow plugs. I had various loads
where i woulod discharge all cells close to each other so I could charge
in series with reasonable success.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Lead Crystal Batteries, does anybody have any experience? |
Does anyone have any experience with Lead Crystal batteries that they claim you
can cycle to 100% discharge?:
http://www.bettabatteries.com/
Supposedly we have a potential customer for Solar Charging Stations that purchased
200 amp, 100 amp and 18 amp 12 volt samples so we can compare side by side
to what we are using.
This company is located in South Africa. The batteries are close to ready for shipment
to us, but are coming from China.
I am very skeptical about outrageous claims, especially when they come from a Battery
Mfg. in China.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375077#375077
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
Hi Raymond
"> Ron, any recommendations on using the 15 amp breaker?"
"> I was just looking over the charger boards and noticed one of
the
> resistor leads got clipped when the wires were being cut. It's
the end
> of R3 by where the red wire was cut. It would be easy to over
look.
> Just an FYI in case someone has a problem."
Hi Raymond.
Thx. for the heads up on cut resistor. I have not seen one of them cut.
There were four guys who disassembled the 500 plus packs. Out of probably
a hundred charge boards i have set up, one left the red LED on all the
time, and one smoked a 3 legged component. Other than that they all
worked.
The 15 amp resettable breaker was in series with a 12 volt female
cigarette style receptacle, so that would be a good choice.
The most useful thing I have used these batteries for is turning a
cordless Dewalt drill into a corded drill. You need to use pretty thick
wires so as to not get too much of a voltage drop.:
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=550FC20DBDDB521D!694&authkey=!APwe6830ArzXncc
I just used 2 conductors and ground in parallel on the cord we had
hanging around.
Ron Parigoris
Message 14
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| Subject: | Lead Crystal Batteries, does anybody have any experience? |
Googled "Lead Crystal Batteries". Lots of interesting information...
-john-
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of rparigoris
> Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 9:10 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Lead Crystal Batteries, does
> anybody have any experience?
>
> --> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Does anyone have any experience with Lead Crystal batteries
> that they claim you can cycle to 100% discharge?:
> http://www.bettabatteries.com/
>
> Supposedly we have a potential customer for Solar Charging
> Stations that purchased 200 amp, 100 amp and 18 amp 12 volt
> samples so we can compare side by side to what we are using.
>
> This company is located in South Africa. The batteries are
> close to ready for shipment to us, but are coming from China.
>
> I am very skeptical about outrageous claims, especially when
> they come from a Battery Mfg. in China.
>
> Ron Parigoris
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