AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Mon 07/30/12


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:22 AM - Re: Modifying 12V LED Strip Lighting to work in 24/28V Aircraf (Eric M. Jones)
     2. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Unapproved ELT antenna? (Ken)
     3. 08:37 AM - Using LEDs in Series (Eric M. Jones)
     4. 09:35 AM - Re: Using LEDs in Series (Christopher Cee Stone)
     5. 11:08 AM - Re: Using LEDs in Series (Eric M. Jones)
     6. 11:46 AM - HUD for GA aircraft (Jerome Sipple)
     7. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: Using LEDs in Series (Henador Titzoff)
     8. 01:25 PM - book (Gordon Parker)
     9. 01:43 PM - Re: Using LEDs in Series (Eric M. Jones)
    10. 02:10 PM - Re: HUD for GA aircraft (Peter Pengilly)
    11. 04:10 PM - Re: book (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 07:08 PM - Re: Latching Relay Redux (user9253)
    13. 07:58 PM - Re: Re: Using LEDs in Series (Henador Titzoff)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:22:57 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Modifying 12V LED Strip Lighting to work in 24/28V
    Aircraf
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Wrong polarity...Rookie mistake see attached correction.... -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379571#379571 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/modify_led_strip_lighting_for_24_28_volts_reva_199.pdf


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:29:04 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Unapproved ELT antenna?
    Exactly but there still seems to be misunderstanding... When I follow the manufacturer's instructions and do the 3 month self test, I was surprised to learn that my ACK E-04 unit immediately transmits a short live 406 test burst. I know this because I then get an email from the Canadian Search and Rescue center confirming receipt of my "test signal". Unlike other pilots I've spoken to, I will continue to follow the manufacturer instructions. It would seem that RCC has no problem recognizing these as "test bursts" and there is no need for any coordination with any authority when doing the self test. They obviously know whose ELT it is. The GPS position does not go out on the test burst of this unit because the self test is supposed to be done WITHOUT aircraft power or GPS info being fed to the unit. On my unit the self test means pressing the black "test/reset" button NOT the red Emergency button. But the labelling is applied by the installer and can be reversed. In fact the rev 1.6 installation manual actually has the photo on Page 1 reversed. However the text says "Caution: The ON position marking on the placard must be aligned with the red switch, the TEST/RESET marking must be over the black switch (Fig. 5)". Perhaps some are installed backwards and that has caused some problems leading to folks now avoiding the self tests?? BTW ACK no longer recommends using the Ameriking RCPI (panel indicator) with the ACK E-04. There is a wiring reversal required if you do attempt to do that but mine did not function even with the reversed wiring connector. Ken On 25/07/2012 10:15 AM, Richard Girard wrote: > Stu, The following are excerpts from AIM section 6-2-5, Emergency > Locator Transmitter (ELT), dealing with testing, false alarms, and > reporting. > Testing > > 1. ELTs should be tested in accordance with the manufacturer's > instructions. This should be done, preferably, in a shielded or screened > room or specially designed test container to prevent the broadcast of > signals, which could trigger a false alert. > > 2. When this cannot be done, aircraft operational testing is authorized > as follows: > > (a) _Analog 121.5/243 MHz ELTs should only be tested during the first > five minutes_ after any hour. If operational tests must be made outside > of this period, they should be coordinated with the nearest FAA Control > Tower or Flight Ser-vice Station. Tests should be no longer than three > audible weeps. If the antenna is removable, a dummy load should be > substituted during test procedures. > > (b) _Digital 406 MHz ELTs should only be tested in accordance with the > unit's manufacturer's instructions._ > > (c) Airborne tests are not authorized. > > Rick > > > On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 4:39 AM, Stuart Hutchison > <stuart@stuarthutchison.com.au <mailto:stuart@stuarthutchison.com.au>> > wrote: > > __ > Hi Rick, > I appreciate that 121.5 radiation is a measure of success, but not > sure if you guys are talking about a 406 beacon. > You're best not to transmit live without approval ... otherwise, in > no time at all (one 406 data burst) you will have triggered a > DISTRESS phase at the RCC. > > Kind regards, Stu______ > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > <mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > <mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of > *Richard Girard > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 25, 2012 7:21 AM > *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> > *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Unapproved ELT antenna? > > David, The antenna has definitely been hacked off. I have an > identical Ameri-King ELT on my personal airplane and it is about 7 > to 8 inches longer and has a ball end, no saw marks of ragged shrink > tubing. > I called the Wichita FSDO and got the answer. I can replace the > antenna for the owner with an unaltered correct one, or I can get a > ferry permit to fly it home to him and he can deal with it. > On the sufficient signal strength, the rule is basically there to > require a check to see that the antenna is indeed radiating, i.e. > connected properly to the radio. Get your hand held, tune to 121.5, > activate the ELT, see that you get a signal on the hand held, and > your done. > The inspector was kind enough to suggest a local shop that might > have an antenna, Bevan Rabell, and the good folks there are trying > to help. > > Thanks Guys, > Rick Girard > do not archive > > On Tue, Jul 24, 2012 at 11:33 AM, Kelly McMullen > <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>> wrote: > > <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>> > > The requirements are in the TSO. The FARs require compliance > with the TSO. TSO approval is on the transmitter with antenna, > which prevents substitution with anything but identical antenna > or one the manufacturer has determined to perform identically. > > > On 7/24/2012 8:14 AM, D L Josephson wrote: > > Sorry, there should have been more detail. The point is that > the FAR's don't specify how to measure radiated output. > Maybe it's in the manufacturer's instructions, maybe not, in > which case you're on your own... different shops use > different methods like using a portable radio with no > antenna or a remote receiver to see whether there is > "sufficient signal radiated from its antenna." > But check with Ameri-King, the shortened antenna may be > factory length. > > David > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:37:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Using LEDs in Series
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    > This raises a good question: is it okay to light a strip of LEDs by just wiring them in series in a quantity such that each LED sees the appropriate voltage drop? This would seem to eliminate the (admittedly small) energy loss from heating up resistors. On the other hand, failure of one LED would darken the whole string. Thoughts?Dan Great questionand one that needs a proper answer. LEDs have a characteristic called Forward Voltage (or Vf). This means that the LED will not light until the voltage across it exceeds the Vf. This voltage is usually small , perhaps 2Vf and depends on the diodes materials of construction. The diode itself follows Ohms Law V=IR (or E=IR) when the voltage is above the Vf. Lets see how this works: Put a common LED across a 12V source, and the current will be extremely large, since 12V/~0 Ohms=Huge current. Now we have to understand that the battery or source of power and the wires, etc. have some small resistance, so the current is not quite infinite, but some very large value. (Ka-blam.) But the LED lowers the voltage by its forward voltage (here 2 Vf). Even so 12V-2 Vf =10V and 10V/~0 Ohms is still huge. So we have the bright idea that we can simply use 6 x 2 Vf LEDs, we can get: 12V-2Vf -2Vf -2 Vf -2Vf -2 Vf -2Vf = 0 volts/~0=hmmmmm. The LEDs in this case are each at the voltage where they can almost light. But this is no good for anybody. If we use 5 x 2V LEDs, then 12V-2V-2V-2V-2V-2V= 2V/~0=Current (probably excessive) that is dependent only upon the residual resistance and true source voltage of the circuit. Furthermore it depends on the LEDs Vf being exact and independent of all outside influenceswhich it is most certainly not. Additionally if you build a circuit where the LEDs are on the hairy edge of lighting, dimming them is problematic. What to do, what to do? Add a resistor to the string of LEDs If we use 5 x 2Vf, and want a current of 30 mA, then 12V-2Vf -2Vf -2Vf -2Vf-2Vf =2V/.030A=67 Ohms. This 67 Ohm resistor swamps any likely source resistance (which is usually just a few Ohms), and doesnt allow for much slump in the voltage source (10V and these LEDs are off) The resistor needs to be a wattage of at least I^2 X R=0.030A X 0.030A X 67 Ohms=0.06 Wattsvery small in this case but the wattage calculation of LED current-limiting resistors is important and frequently neglected. Additional note: The voltage source can be as large as one likeseven kilovoltsbut the resistor must be suitable for the voltage. Additional note: Vf is not a parallel-is-lower type of characteristic. Vf values sum in series, but do not sum in parallel, exactly like batteries! This makes putting banks of LEDs in series and parallel together a practical approach. Conclusion: When using LEDs in a string, the current limiting resistor must have a high enough value to make ignoring the source resistance reasonable, and allow for dimming capability headroom as desired. Eric M. Jones, Perihelion Design, 07/30/12 -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379593#379593


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:35:56 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Using LEDs in Series
    From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com>
    > > LEDs in series is not as potentially problematic as incandescents in > series. Incandescent bulbs are relatively delicate and short lived as they > are a heater that emits light. The life of an LED that is driven at it's > rated current (not over driven) and properly heat sinked (in the case of > high brightness LEDs >1W) is tens of thousands of hours. In the developing > industry of SSL (solid state lighting) it is common practice to series > connect LEDs. In most cases this is preferred as the current is held > constant and the voltage is varied depending on the number of LEDs in the > string (as Eric has described). If you are driving high output devices >1W > you will need to use a constant current driver. You will find that as you > limit current on these higher output devices a limiting resistor will > dissipate considerable power, much more than the LED. > Chris Stone RV-8 Newberg, OR > > > This raises a good question: is it okay to light a strip of LEDs by just > wiring them in series in a quantity such that each LED sees the appropriate > voltage drop? This would seem to eliminate the (admittedly small) energy > loss from heating up resistors. On the other hand, failure of one LED would > darken the whole string. Thoughts?Dan > > <snip> >


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:08:06 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Using LEDs in Series
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    One last thing: In many cases a simple current-regulated power supply is all you need to drive series/parallel LEDs. This also has the advantage of being essentially noise free. I sell an LED tail light where I used a tiny switching power supply but never could stop the noise (Bob N. has a solution to this...but it is a little complicated) The problem was particularly bad because the LED is in the tail...and frequently so are the antennas. So I changed to a simple current-regulated supply that is a little inefficient, but stone-silent. I have no doubt that there are switching supplies that are very quiet, too. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379610#379610


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:46:27 AM PST US
    From: Jerome Sipple <jds@taxesplusllc.com>
    Subject: HUD for GA aircraft
    Just a fyi about an interesting blurb I saw in a gizmag email today about a new heads up display for GA aircraft. I have no connection with them, just passing along the info. PAT Avionics shows G-HULP heads-up-display system for recreational aircraft http://www.gizmag.com/pat-avionics-hud-recreational-aircraft/23477/?utm_source=Gizmag+Subscribers&utm_campaign=a4a140692e-UA-2235360-4&utm_medium=email Jerry Sipple Cozy MkIV project


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:01:43 PM PST US
    From: Henador Titzoff <henador_titzoff@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Using LEDs in Series
    Eric, a "simple current regulated power supply is nothing more than an acti ve circuit providing variable resistance to keep the current constant while the applied voltage fluctuates. -This means that power is dissipated in its "variable resistance circuit, usually a transistor in its active state. A switched current regulator, on the other hand, keeps the switching transi stors in their on-off states with power dissipated mostly during the switch ing time when they're in the active state. -This has the disadvantage of generating transients and harmonics which may bleed into the wrong places. Do you have a magical circuit that somehow doesn't generate RF interference and also doesn't dissipate very much power? Thanks. Henador Titzoff --- On Mon, 7/30/12, Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> wrote: From: Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Using LEDs in Series et> One last thing: In many cases a simple current-regulated power supply is all you need to dr ive series/parallel LEDs. This also has the advantage of being essentially noise free. I sell an LED tail light where I used a tiny switching power su pply but never could stop the noise (Bob N. has a solution to this...but it is a little complicated) The problem was particularly bad because the LED is in the tail...and frequently so are the antennas. So I changed to a simp le current-regulated supply that is a little inefficient, but stone-silent. I have no doubt that there are switching supplies that are very quiet, too. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379610#379610 le, List Admin.


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:25:43 PM PST US
    Subject: book
    From: Gordon Parker <gptailwind@gmail.com>
    Bob: Thanks for all the good info that comes thru. I would like to purchase your book but cannot locate how to do it. Could you help thanks. Gordon


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:43:40 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Using LEDs in Series
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    > Do you have a magical circuit that somehow doesn't generate RF interference and also doesn't dissipate very much power? Thanks. Henador Titzoff If I did, I wouldn't be posting here. I'd have my jet parked on my private Caribbean Island. But I'd invite everybody over for a Margarita. Seriously, there are two kinds of power supplies...Digital and Analog. ALL the digital stuff makes noise, ALL the analog stuff dissipates power. Is there some magical in-between*? Probably not, but the digital stuff can be made arbitrarily close to noise-free with really good design. This usually involves knowing what frequency spectrum you can use for switching...something that won't interfere. (*Filters are almost all analog...but here I mean the active regulation element) -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379626#379626


    Message 10


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    Time: 02:10:15 PM PST US
    From: Peter Pengilly <peter@sportingaero.com>
    Subject: Re: HUD for GA aircraft
    The big deal about HUDs is that they are focused at infinity with some fancy (heavy) optics. That way you look out the window and everything is in focus, data/target/bad guys laid on top of the scenery. This looks like a see through LCD (or similar), focussed on the plate. I'm not sure that would of huge benefit as you would be continually be re-focussing between the plate and the scenery. So $5000 for something that is only of real use when attacking those pesky ground targets, and then requiring a lot of focus shifting. It would be interesting to know what kind of lag there is between the world moving and the depiction on the glass responding - if it is more that 100ms (that is 0.1 seconds) then it is too slow to be of much use and will only be a hindrance. Thanks for posting. Peter On 30/07/2012 19:45, Jerome Sipple wrote: > Just a fyi about an interesting blurb I saw in a gizmag email today > about a new heads up display for GA aircraft. I have no connection > with them, just passing along the info. > > PAT Avionics shows G-HULP heads-up-display system for recreational > aircraft > > http://www.gizmag.com/pat-avionics-hud-recreational-aircraft/23477/?utm_source=Gizmag+Subscribers&utm_campaign=a4a140692e-UA-2235360-4&utm_medium=email > > Jerry Sipple > Cozy MkIV project > > > * > > > *


    Message 11


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    Time: 04:10:43 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: book
    At 03:24 PM 7/30/2012, you wrote: >Bob: Thanks for all the good info that comes thru. I would like to >purchase your book but cannot locate how to do it. Could you >help thanks. Gordon My website at http://tinyurl.com/89kaepk . . . has an expanded information set that augments the book. There's also an catalog/ order page at: http://tinyurl.com/36e7ddd where you can enter an order for the book. Thanks for asking. Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:08:17 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Latching Relay Redux
    From: "user9253" <fran4sew@banyanol.com>
    I received this email today from Chuck (quoted below) in reference to my circuit "Contactor PWM.pdf " to reduce contactor holding current. http://forums.matronics.com/download.php?id=32370 > Hello Joe > I built the circuit with one change. I replaced R1 with an adjustable 0-25k ohm pot. Works great, just dial in the PWM for the right duty cycle with R1 for the particular contactor being used. > Thanks Chuck -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379655#379655


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:58:57 PM PST US
    From: Henador Titzoff <henador_titzoff@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Using LEDs in Series
    Therein lies another problem, Eric. For a switching regulator (digital) tha t is "noise free with really good design," you say that it involves knowing what frequency spectrum you can use for switching ... something that won't interfere. -As diverse as our airplanes are, with several systems and wi th ubiquitous installation techniques and paths, how does one design a nois e free switching regulator? -The only way I can think of is to design it with passive filtering and packaging methods such that radiated and conduct ed EMI is reduced to something extremely low. This would also involve exten sive testing to verify the low EMI. That kind of design and testing would c ost a pretty peso. Seems to me the safest way to go is an active linear regulator with a suffi cient back plate to dissipate the heat. Henador Titzoff --- On Mon, 7/30/12, Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> wrote: From: Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Using LEDs in Series et> > Do you have a magical circuit that somehow doesn't generate RF interferen ce and also doesn't dissipate very much power? Thanks. Henador Titzoff If I did, I wouldn't be posting here. I'd have my jet parked on my private Caribbean Island. But I'd invite everybody over for a Margarita. Seriously, there are two kinds of power supplies...Digital and Analog. ALL the digital stuff makes noise, ALL the analog stuff dissipates power. Is th ere some magical in-between*? Probably not, but the digital stuff can be ma de arbitrarily close to noise-free with really good design. This usually in volves knowing what frequency spectrum you can use for switching...somethin g that won't interfere. (*Filters are almost all analog...but here I mean the active regulation ele ment) -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379626#379626 le, List Admin.




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