Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:28 AM - Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg wire... (James Kilford)
2. 07:46 AM - Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg wire... (Glen Matejcek)
3. 10:57 AM - Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg (D L Josephson)
4. 11:27 AM - Which 55-60 amp alternator (B Tomm)
5. 12:03 PM - Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg (Jared Yates)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg |
wire...
> Consider soldering un-insulated terminals and dressing out with heat
shrink.
I did my large wires with this method, and it worked very well. The
blowtorch makes a bit of a mess of the insulation near the terminals, but
that gets covered up neatly by heatshrink.
James
On 11 August 2012 13:24, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com**>
>
> At 09:30 PM 8/10/2012, you wrote:
>
>> mburbidg@gmail.com>
>>
>>
>> I'm using the "uninsulated ring terminals" for 4 awg wire from the
>> contractors to my bus and alternator. Are the terminals sold by B&C meant
>> to be crimped or soldered? If crimped where can I get a crimper big enough
>> to handle 4 awg. B&C only sells ones that handle up to 10 awg wire.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Michael-
>>
>
> Crimp tools for the larger terminals are
> pretty pricey. Further, most airplanes will
> need only a handful of large terminals. Consider
> soldering un-insulated terminals and dressing
> out with heat shrink. See:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/9pbvky8
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg |
wire...
You betcha. Instead of all those other steps that invariably eat up $time$, just
insert, whack whack, and solder away. It might not sound like much of a deal,
but with my dual battery, all-electric airplane, there are 12 such terminals
IIRC.
As far as making a gas tight joint without solder goes, it seems to be a no-brainer
with the tool I have. It takes a couple moderately heavy blows with a 2 1/2
pound sledge to compress it to the gauge depth. Considering the gauge of the
materials in the wire and terminal as well as the design of the die, it's hard
to imagine how a reasaonable man could over do it and do damage. I tried just
to see what would happen, and it seems about all you can do is some sort of
gross alignment error that would be quite obvious.
Of course, this is also an industrial tool that the welding shop uses to fabricate
the cables they sell to professional welders. I suspect that given the duty
cycle and environment involved in that application, I will be hard pressed to
have a problem with my installation. I did solder my connections as a means
of sealing the end of the wire, just because. Heat shrink covers the barrel
and bridges to the insulation.
One tip: If your cable will need to bend close to the terminal, put that bend
in when you attach the terminal. I works wonders-
Also, life is easier if you remember to slip the heat shrink over the cable prior
to affixing the terminal... you may wonder how I know that!
FWIW, YMMV...
>Greetings,
>
>I wasn't describing stacking processes.
>
>I was suggesting that the process of "wedging" might be replaced by
>compressing the components together with a "whack-n-bash" tool. It would
>avoid the - find the wire - find the sharpening tool - strip - sharpen -
>drive - nip - process of wedging.
>
>Seems quicker and at least as repeatable as "wedging", if it doesn't
>introduce additional issues I'm not considering.
>
>Just wondering out loud.
>
>Thanks,
>Raymond Julian
>Kettle River, MN.
Glen Matejcek
Glen Matejcek
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 |
awg
Perhaps I'm just being dense, but why not just get the appropriate sized
uninsulated ring terminal for the wire you want to use rather than
stuffing with more copper? If you want to solder a #4 wire, a #6 or
maybe #8 crimp terminal would probably be the right size for a snug fit.
You can also make your own, using soft copper refrigeration tubing --
whatever best fits the wire, squeezed flat (in a press if necessary) and
drilled at the end.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Which 55-60 amp alternator |
Bob,
Assuming that in order to end up with an externally regulated 55-60 amp
alternator, I will probably have to modify an IR model, which alternator
should I buy to start with.
I want the fans to turn the correct direction (CCW when viewed at the
pulley) for use on a lycoming.
I don't want to pay the big bucks for a B&C unit and don't mind doing the
work to convert it.
Bevan
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching "uninsulated ring terminals" to 4 awg |
I used a Dremel to cut a slot in the barrel, then pinched the slot
closed and soldered. I found that I was able to solder successfully
without getting the wire anywhere near hot enough to melt the
insulation, so if that's a problem I'd suggest trying less heat. Here
are some pictures, down about half way:
http://jaredyates.com/bearhawk/?p=988
On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:51 PM, D L Josephson <dlj04@josephson.com> wrote:
>
> Perhaps I'm just being dense, but why not just get the appropriate sized
> uninsulated ring terminal for the wire you want to use rather than stuffing
> with more copper? If you want to solder a #4 wire, a #6 or maybe #8 crimp
> terminal would probably be the right size for a snug fit. You can also make
> your own, using soft copper refrigeration tubing -- whatever best fits the
> wire, squeezed flat (in a press if necessary) and drilled at the end.
>
>
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