Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:04 AM - Re: Re: Charger needed to revive 18 aH Lead Acid Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 09:12 AM - Re: Charger needed to revive 18 aH Lead Acid Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 04:36 PM - Westinghouse #329 Mazda Aircraft "Headlights". (Eric M. Jones)
4. 07:39 PM - B&C Boss mounted altenator... (Michael Burbidge)
5. 08:19 PM - Re: B&C Boss mounted altenator... (H. Marvin Haught)
6. 08:28 PM - Re: B&C Boss mounted altenator... (Tim Andres)
7. 08:56 PM - Re: B&C Boss mounted altenator... (Michael Burbidge)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Charger needed to revive 18 aH Lead Acid |
Batteries
On 8/30/12 I wrote:
Another data point. After one hour at 14.6 volts, current going into
the battery is still about 90mA.
I put this battery on the WMR CBAII at 1.2A load
and the battery delivered 12.2 a.h. This value
is consistent with other evaluations of what appears
to be a mis-labeled battery.
I've put it back on the Battery Tender as the sole
source of charge. Initial rate was 0.85A. After 2
hours, the terminal voltage has come up from 11.8 to
12.2 and the rate is 0.75A. I'll let the Battery
Tender do it's thing for 24 hours and then repeat
the cap check cited above.
I think we're going to find that the 'Tender' is
putting as much snort back into the battery as it
will accept . . . but we shall see.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Charger needed to revive 18 aH Lead Acid Batteries |
At 06:22 PM 8/29/2012, you wrote:
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Hi Group
>
>I have a task to try and revive some 18 aH 12 volt sealed AGM
>batteries that weigh in at ~ 14.5 pounds.
>
>The charger that was being used on them begins at a 3.5aH charger,
>then slows down a bit and peaks ~ 14.2/3 then goes to 13.7 float.
Pursuing another train of thought: It is
possible that the batteries have suffered
so degradation of performance due to combinations
of age, conditions of storage, or even manufacturing
quality.
Skip Koss has related Concorde's techniques for
recovering what appears to be a totally trashed
battery. The process includes things like application
of 24v on a 12v battery until recharge currents
rise above some established value followed by
a couple deep charge/discharge cycles. He
said this process may well flog the horse back
to some demonstration of life . . . but you
never get back to 100% even if the battery
is young.
There's a mil-spec requirement for being able
to recover a badly discharged battery . . .
like a dead-short on it for a week before
the recovery process is applied. Capacity
tests measure proportion of chemistry still
active . . . and there are some failures that
cannot be recovered with outside stimulus.
Bob . . .
>After a while, I don't know if from letting discharge too much or
>for too long, or the 3.5 aH is a bit too fast, but what happens is
>the batteries although they peak and go to float, they really don't
>take too much of a charge and have a very low capacity.
>
>I have a 900mA Yuasa motorcycle charger, that does a little better.
>
>Now what I did find works really well, is using the fool cheapest of
>cheap battery chargers I gave away with the 9aH batteries I sold on
>AeroElestric.
>
>That charger is nothing more than a 500mA transformer that supplies
>a constant 500mA current, then the circuit just looks for 15.4/5 and
>turns off. Now mind you it can take not hours, but days to reach
>that magic 15.4/5 number, and some batteries can not be revived, but
>most can. Then I found that if I take two of these batteries and
>parallel them and let the poor 500mA charger reach 15.4/5, it gets
>about as good as it gets so far.
>
>I think that the longer elevated voltage is perhaps desulfating??
>
>I have a constant current 2 aH charger, and if I let it go much over
>14.4 the batteries make a minor bubbling noise that I don't like too
>much and figure if I let it go it will begin venting? I let it go 2
>hours but the 500mA charge brought back more capacity.
>
>Sorry for the long winded explain, what I need:
>
>I need a consistent source for a fairly inexpensive charger that can
>help revive these batteries.
>
>I looked at Walmart, they have a 1.5 amp charger that peaks too low.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanking you in advance
>Ron Parigoris
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382105#382105
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Westinghouse #329 Mazda Aircraft "Headlights". |
The rest of the story.
Do Not Archive.
I posted this earlier on this list and some few people might wonder how it all
turned out.
Background: I found a big box (19 pcs--9pc of the 12V and 10pc of the 24V) of NOS
Westinghouse Mazda #239 landing "Headlights" at a flea market and grabbed them
to put on Ebay. A long, long, time passed and I began to wonder who on God's
Green Earth might need these uber-hyper-rare late 1920's landing lamps? There
certainly weren't ANY available as far as the internet (and even rare lamp
dealers) could tell me. NONE. Zip. Zero. Nada. I knew only that they fit the Rearwin
Cloudster, but probably virtually all of the landing headlights must have
been converted, because there weren't any lamps to put in them...except the
ones I had. And the Rearwin Cloudsters hardly darkened the skies anymore. I grew
less hopeful. I suspected I had the only Mazda #239's on the planet.
So they sat there month after month. But one day I checked my email and someone
in Oregon had bought them all at the buy-it-now-price! He flys a restored WACO
UKC with the original factory landing lights. He was overjoyed to find these.
Sold, shipped, done.
But a couple days later I got an urgent email from a guy in Gloucestershire, UK
who apparently panicked when he saw them gone from Ebay. I asked the buyer and
he kindly agreed to email the UK guy and maybe make a deal.
Now everybody is happy.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382240#382240
Message 4
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Subject: | B&C Boss mounted altenator... |
Folks,
I just got my "pre-owned" engine mounted to my RV-9A this week. The
engine is an O320-D3G and it came out of a certified aircraft. It had a
large certified alternator on it, made by Chrysler, interestingly
enough. I purchased a B&C 40 Amp alternator to replace it. I thought it
would be a direct replacement for the certified alternator. The
certified alternator is boss mounted.
When I took the old alternator off and tried to put the B&C alternator
on, I immediately noticed that the mounting brackets were very
different. The old brackets consisted of three separate brackets.
There's a long bracket in the rear, then one that the alternator hangs
directly under and finally a strap that ties the starter to alternator
bracket. All three brackets are much shorter than the single bracket
that came with the B&C alternator. I've enclosed a few pictures.
Do I have to try and fabricate the rear bracket and the
starter-altenator strap to match the B&C alternator? I don't really have
the equipment or know how to fabricate steel brackets. The material is
at least 1/4 inch thick.
Any help or suggestions?
Thanks,
Michael-
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: B&C Boss mounted altenator... |
#1 - See if you can drill new mounting holes in the "U" bracket mounted to the
case to reposition the bracket so that it will mount up with the attachment bracket
on the alternator.
#2 If that won't work, see if you can find a steel spacer that will take up the
space between the U bracket and the attachment bracket on the alternator. 1/8"
inch pipe might work, cut to size with a hack saw, washers on each end. Then
use a bolt of proper length to tie everything together.
The latter solution is not elegant, but should cause no problems.
M. Haught
On Aug 31, 2012, at 9:37 PM, Michael Burbidge wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I just got my "pre-owned" engine mounted to my RV-9A this week. The engine is
an O320-D3G and it came out of a certified aircraft. It had a large certified
alternator on it, made by Chrysler, interestingly enough. I purchased a B&C 40
Amp alternator to replace it. I thought it would be a direct replacement for
the certified alternator. The certified alternator is boss mounted.
>
> When I took the old alternator off and tried to put the B&C alternator on, I
immediately noticed that the mounting brackets were very different. The old brackets
consisted of three separate brackets. There's a long bracket in the rear,
then one that the alternator hangs directly under and finally a strap that
ties the starter to alternator bracket. All three brackets are much shorter than
the single bracket that came with the B&C alternator. I've enclosed a few pictures.
>
> Do I have to try and fabricate the rear bracket and the starter-altenator strap
to match the B&C alternator? I don't really have the equipment or know how
to fabricate steel brackets. The material is at least 1/4 inch thick.
>
> Any help or suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael-
>
> <IMG_0805.jpg>
> <IMG_0806.jpg><IMG_0807.jpg>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: B&C Boss mounted altenator... |
You just need to call B&C and have them send you the right one. They have two different
mounts. Case & Boss. Don't recall which is which, but they will fix you
up.
Tim
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 31, 2012, at 7:37 PM, Michael Burbidge <mburbidg@gmail.com> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I just got my "pre-owned" engine mounted to my RV-9A this week. The engine is
an O320-D3G and it came out of a certified aircraft. It had a large certified
alternator on it, made by Chrysler, interestingly enough. I purchased a B&C 40
Amp alternator to replace it. I thought it would be a direct replacement for
the certified alternator. The certified alternator is boss mounted.
>
> When I took the old alternator off and tried to put the B&C alternator on, I
immediately noticed that the mounting brackets were very different. The old brackets
consisted of three separate brackets. There's a long bracket in the rear,
then one that the alternator hangs directly under and finally a strap that
ties the starter to alternator bracket. All three brackets are much shorter than
the single bracket that came with the B&C alternator. I've enclosed a few pictures.
>
> Do I have to try and fabricate the rear bracket and the starter-altenator strap
to match the B&C alternator? I don't really have the equipment or know how
to fabricate steel brackets. The material is at least 1/4 inch thick.
>
> Any help or suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael-
>
> <IMG_0805.jpg>
> <IMG_0806.jpg><IMG_0807.jpg>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: B&C Boss mounted altenator... |
I will call them, but it is not a problem of boss vs. case. My engine has a boss
mount and the alternator from B&C is a boss mount. The problem is that they
only supplied 1 of 3 pieces to the boss mount. Now it may be that the alternator
is light enough that it doesn't need the other two pieces. I don't know if
the tie to the starter is to support the starter or the alternator. And maybe
the rear bracket isn't required for the B&C alternator. It that's the case it
would be good for the instructions to mention this.
Thanks,
Michael-
On Aug 31, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Tim Andres wrote:
>
> You just need to call B&C and have them send you the right one. They have two
different mounts. Case & Boss. Don't recall which is which, but they will fix
you up.
> Tim
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 31, 2012, at 7:37 PM, Michael Burbidge <mburbidg@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I just got my "pre-owned" engine mounted to my RV-9A this week. The engine is
an O320-D3G and it came out of a certified aircraft. It had a large certified
alternator on it, made by Chrysler, interestingly enough. I purchased a B&C
40 Amp alternator to replace it. I thought it would be a direct replacement for
the certified alternator. The certified alternator is boss mounted.
>>
>> When I took the old alternator off and tried to put the B&C alternator on, I
immediately noticed that the mounting brackets were very different. The old brackets
consisted of three separate brackets. There's a long bracket in the rear,
then one that the alternator hangs directly under and finally a strap that
ties the starter to alternator bracket. All three brackets are much shorter than
the single bracket that came with the B&C alternator. I've enclosed a few
pictures.
>>
>> Do I have to try and fabricate the rear bracket and the starter-altenator strap
to match the B&C alternator? I don't really have the equipment or know how
to fabricate steel brackets. The material is at least 1/4 inch thick.
>>
>> Any help or suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Michael-
>>
>> <IMG_0805.jpg>
>> <IMG_0806.jpg><IMG_0807.jpg>
>
>
>
>
>
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