Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:53 AM - Light pigtail (rvg8tor)
2. 07:28 AM - Re: Light pigtail (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:37 AM - Re: Light pigtail (rvg8tor)
4. 11:45 AM - Re: Re: Light pigtail (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 12:31 PM - Re: Re: Light pigtail (Roger & Jean Curtis)
6. 04:03 PM - Seeking alternator troubleshooting advice (Reddogally@aol.com)
7. 07:37 PM - Re: Seeking alternator troubleshooting advice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:43 PM - Re: Seeking alternator troubleshooting advice (Reddogally@aol.com)
Message 1
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I think it is called a pigtail I originally wired my RV-8A to use Van's 75W halogen
landing and taxi light system. I ran 16 AWG wire from a 15A breaker to
the switch, the switch is set up as OFF-TAXI-LAND, so power only goes to either
the landing light set (2 bulbs on each wing) or landing light set.
I have decided to now go with a fancy LED landing taxi light. This light comes
with a pigtail out of a circuit unit and the wire is 18AWG except the ground
is 16AWG, only 1 ground for entire light sytem. I have wired this into the plane
and it works fine but then I am thinking I need to go down to a 10A breaker.
These lights pull under 3 amps each so not a lot of draw. Would I do okay
to leave things as they are, one 16 AWG wire to the switch that in turn feeds
either wires to the taxi light or wires to the landing light, all 16AWG. My
only issue is with the wires going into the light housing, the power wires are
18AWG and the ground is 16 AWG. Perhaps an inline fuse at the transition would
be in order to protect the short run of 18AWG wire? Now that I think about
it the pigtail is only about 4" so maybe I am okay, and they only have one 16AWG
wire as the return.
The manufacturer recommended set up is two 10A breakers to two switches and one
16AWG ground as the return path.
Sorry for the long post, this is late at night and I am half brainstorming my issue
with this post. I appreciate any light one can shed, pun intended.
Cheers
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Engine)
www.mykitlog.com/rvg8tor
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382312#382312
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Light pigtail |
The manufacturer recommended set up is two 10A breakers to two
switches and one 16AWG ground as the return path.
It would help to see the manufacturer's installation
instructions along with any wiring diagrams offered.
If these are LED fixtures, then 10A is WAAAaaayyy too
big.
Sorry for the long post, this is late at night and I am half
brainstorming my issue with this post. I appreciate any light one
can shed, pun intended.
Need DATA on the proposed lighting fixtures.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Light pigtail |
Attached are the instructions, I used for the install. They include a wire diagram.
I am currently not going to hook up the Wig Wag feature, this was not planned
when I wired the plane a couple years ago, I will add this feature after
I am flying this year with any luck!
Cheers
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Engine)
www.mykitlog.com/rvg8tor
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382329#382329
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Light pigtail |
At 10:36 AM 9/3/2012, you wrote:
Attached are the instructions, I used for the install. They include
a wire diagram.
Hmmmm . . . the wiring is, shall we say, unconventional.
Circuit protection is usually installed at the bus
UPSTREAM of control switches. Assuming the stated
current draw numbers are for EACH of TWO fixtures, then
system demands for Landing lights is 4.4A and Taxi lights
is 5.8A. Position lights would be something less than 1A
average.
The nominal wire sizing is a bit heavy, the whole system
could be wired with 20AWG and breakered at 7A, or
fused at 10A (Don't want to operate past the 1/4th derating
for fuses in the Taxi light slot. Position lights could
run from a 5A branch. While the control wires are probably
properly sized for loads, it's a good practice not to wire
airframe accessories with less that 22AWG just for general
robustness and workability issues.
I am currently not going to hook up the Wig Wag feature, this was
not planned when I wired the plane a couple years ago, I will add
this feature after I am flying this year with any luck!
If your wires are in place, then the notion of
downsizing breakers or fuses consistent with new
system requirements is a reasonable thing to do.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Light pigtail |
Attached are the instructions, I used for the install. They include
a wire diagram.
Hmmmm . . . the wiring is, shall we say, unconventional.
Circuit protection is usually installed at the bus
UPSTREAM of control switches. Assuming the stated
current draw numbers are for EACH of TWO fixtures, then
system demands for Landing lights is 4.4A and Taxi lights
is 5.8A. Position lights would be something less than 1A
average.
The nominal wire sizing is a bit heavy, the whole system
could be wired with 20AWG and breakered at 7A, or
fused at 10A (Don't want to operate past the 1/4th derating
for fuses in the Taxi light slot. Position lights could
run from a 5A branch. While the control wires are probably
properly sized for loads, it's a good practice not to wire
airframe accessories with less that 22AWG just for general
robustness and workability issues.
I am currently not going to hook up the Wig Wag feature, this was
not planned when I wired the plane a couple years ago, I will add
this feature after I am flying this year with any luck!
If your wires are in place, then the notion of
downsizing breakers or fuses consistent with new
system requirements is a reasonable thing to do.
Bob . . .
Question: If I understand correctly the plan is to use the
existing wiring, which was sized originally to the existing
breakers. I understand that the breakers are oversize for the new
lights, but why would it be suggested to lower the current
rating size of the breaker, since it is there only to protect the
wire?
Roger
Message 6
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| Subject: | Seeking alternator troubleshooting advice |
On the way home from OSH last month my RV6A started to indicate on the
voltage meter readings fluctuating from 14+ to 12.4 or so. During the last
two legs of the flight lasting a total of about 4 hours with all my avionics
and usual accessories activated the voltage never dropped below 12.2..
A week or so after I returned to my home airport I took the plane around
the pattern to check the voltages again. During taxi to the runway the
voltage would indicate 12.2-4. After I pushed the throttle in for takeoff the
voltage went to 14.2 and stayed there while flying at 75% power for 20
minutes or so. I thought the problem I had previously experienced had resolved
itself. However, as soon as a reduced the throttle to descend for landing
the voltage once again dropped to the 12's and fluctuated up and down.
I am not the builder (second owner) so I am not sure if the alternator is
internally or externally regulated. There are no manufacturer markings on
the alternator and I do not see anything that looks like an external voltage
regulator on the firewall. The back of the alternator has one large cable
and three small wires. Two of the wires are clipped to the back of the
alternator on thin posts at 90 degrees to each other and the third wire is
attached the case of the alternator in what looks like a ground wire.
The battery is less than a year old and indicates 12.4. The plane starts
in a couple of turns.
I have a spare alternator that came with the plane that is a Mitsubishi car
alternator.
I am wondering if I should just change out the alternator to try to solve
the problem or are there other ways to determine the cause of the problem.
Any suggestions are appreciated
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Seeking alternator troubleshooting advice |
At 06:01 PM 9/3/2012, you wrote:
On the way home from OSH last month my RV6A started to indicate on
the voltage meter readings fluctuating from 14+ to 12.4 or
so. During the last two legs of the flight lasting a total of about
4 hours with all my avionics and usual accessories activated the
voltage never dropped below 12.2..
The voltage cannot exceed about 12.8 without the
alternator functioning. The voltage cannot fall
lower than what the battery will deliver given
present loads and the battery's state of charge.
Had your airplane been fitted with a low votlage
warning light, it would have notified you of the
fact that the alternator was not producing power.
A week or so after I returned to my home airport I took the plane
around the pattern to check the voltages again. During taxi to the
runway the voltage would indicate 12.2-4.
Which meant that your alternator speed was too low
to produce regulated power at ground maneuvering
RPMs (unlikely in the typical Lycoming installation)
-OR- the alternator was not operating. Again, a
low voltage warning light would be agitating for
attention.
After I pushed the throttle in for takeoff the voltage went to 14.2
and stayed there while flying at 75% power for 20 minutes or so. I
thought the problem I had previously experienced had resolved
itself. However, as soon as a reduced the throttle to descend for
landing the voltage once again dropped to the 12's and fluctuated up and down.
The alternator is suffering intermittent difficulties
that prevents it from functioning as expected.
I am not the builder (second owner) so I am not sure if the
alternator is internally or externally regulated. There are no
manufacturer markings on the alternator and I do not see anything
that looks like an external voltage regulator on the firewall. The
back of the alternator has one large cable and three small
wires. Two of the wires are clipped to the back of the alternator on
thin posts at 90 degrees to each other and the third wire is attached
the case of the alternator in what looks like a ground wire.
Sounds like the typical automotive, internally regulated
alternator.
The battery is less than a year old and indicates 12.4. The plane
starts in a couple of turns.
Battery good, alternator or alternator
wiring bad.
I have a spare alternator that came with the plane that is a
Mitsubishi car alternator. I am wondering if I should just change out
the alternator to try to solve the problem or are there other ways to
determine the cause of the problem.
The assuming no intermittent commands to the alternator
causing it to be turned on and off under vibration,
then the alternator is probably needing attention.
You can do an experiment to install a jumper wire from
the alternator B-terminal to the IGN terminal and see
if the intermittent behavior goes away. Alternatively,
you can change out the alternator to see if that
fixes the problem. The earlier experiment is
the easiest.
Is your spare alternator identical to the one that's
installed?
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Seeking alternator troubleshooting advice |
The spare alternator looks to be identical to the faulty one except the
spare one has a Mitsubishi logo on the case that I do not see on the installed
one. The attachment mounts and wiring locations look to be the same and
in the same locations.
Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try tomorrow.
Doug
In a message dated 9/3/2012 7:37:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 06:01 PM 9/3/2012, you wrote:
On the way home from OSH last month my RV6A started to indicate on
the voltage meter readings fluctuating from 14+ to 12.4 or
so. During the last two legs of the flight lasting a total of about
4 hours with all my avionics and usual accessories activated the
voltage never dropped below 12.2..
The voltage cannot exceed about 12.8 without the
alternator functioning. The voltage cannot fall
lower than what the battery will deliver given
present loads and the battery's state of charge.
Had your airplane been fitted with a low votlage
warning light, it would have notified you of the
fact that the alternator was not producing power.
A week or so after I returned to my home airport I took the plane
around the pattern to check the voltages again. During taxi to the
runway the voltage would indicate 12.2-4.
Which meant that your alternator speed was too low
to produce regulated power at ground maneuvering
RPMs (unlikely in the typical Lycoming installation)
-OR- the alternator was not operating. Again, a
low voltage warning light would be agitating for
attention.
After I pushed the throttle in for takeoff the voltage went to 14.2
and stayed there while flying at 75% power for 20 minutes or so. I
thought the problem I had previously experienced had resolved
itself. However, as soon as a reduced the throttle to descend for
landing the voltage once again dropped to the 12's and fluctuated up and
down.
The alternator is suffering intermittent difficulties
that prevents it from functioning as expected.
I am not the builder (second owner) so I am not sure if the
alternator is internally or externally regulated. There are no
manufacturer markings on the alternator and I do not see anything
that looks like an external voltage regulator on the firewall. The
back of the alternator has one large cable and three small
wires. Two of the wires are clipped to the back of the alternator on
thin posts at 90 degrees to each other and the third wire is attached
the case of the alternator in what looks like a ground wire.
Sounds like the typical automotive, internally regulated
alternator.
The battery is less than a year old and indicates 12.4. The plane
starts in a couple of turns.
Battery good, alternator or alternator
wiring bad.
I have a spare alternator that came with the plane that is a
Mitsubishi car alternator. I am wondering if I should just change out
the alternator to try to solve the problem or are there other ways to
determine the cause of the problem.
The assuming no intermittent commands to the alternator
causing it to be turned on and off under vibration,
then the alternator is probably needing attention.
You can do an experiment to install a jumper wire from
the alternator B-terminal to the IGN terminal and see
if the intermittent behavior goes away. Alternatively,
you can change out the alternator to see if that
fixes the problem. The earlier experiment is
the easiest.
Is your spare alternator identical to the one that's
installed?
Bob . . .
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