Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:31 AM - Re: Suggestion for Adjustable Regulated DC Power supply (hplevyak)
2. 11:20 AM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 01:04 PM - ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator mount... (Michael Burbidge)
4. 01:06 PM - What crimper to use for B&C alternator field terminals... (Michael Burbidge)
5. 02:09 PM - Re: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail? (rayj)
6. 02:20 PM - Re: elt batteries (Bill Watson)
7. 02:53 PM - Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? (s)
8. 03:52 PM - Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? (Bob McCallum)
9. 04:49 PM - Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (Eric M. Jones)
10. 04:58 PM - pitot tube (rayj)
11. 05:13 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
12. 05:33 PM - Re: pitot tube (rayj)
13. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (rayj)
14. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (Dj Merrill)
15. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (rayj)
16. 09:20 PM - Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? (U)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Suggestion for Adjustable Regulated DC Power supply |
Thank-you Bob!
--------
Howard Plevyak
GlaStar
North Bend, OH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383765#383765
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
. . the heater elements still perform per Aero Instruments
test-for-certification specs on element amp draw and resistance. So,
despite a little brightening of the copper and identical air-flow
based on a non-plugged same model p-tube, all is well. Life is interesting.
Those heater elements are pretty complex. They appear to be
semi-rigid, linear, tube heaters not unlike those one might buy
from Cal-Rod . . .
In fact, there heater wire is wound around a core but with
variable spacing such that x watts are dissipated in one
segment, y watts in another, and z watts elsewhere. The
probability for ice accretion and risk therefrom varies
throughout the geometry of the assembly. The hammer-n-tongs
approach is to simply put enough heater in to warm the whole
thing up so that adequate calories are always delivered to
the worst case location. This would probably double the
current draw and make for a very hot tube.
On the ground and zero air flow, a heated pitot will achieve
cherry red emissions temperatures. In clear air, 300kts,
41K feet and -40C . . . the tube merely heats up to
100C or so. See:
http://tinyurl.com/74yr5q8
At 41K, we can see the effect of increase velocity.
At 200Kts, certain parts of this particular device
rose to about 90 and 110C . . . but as IAS went up
sharply in descent they quickly dropped before there
was much. Ram Air Temp rise sharply during that maneuver
too.
Now, pile some super cooled water on or in the tube
that becomes hard ice on impact and the tube temperature
drops WAaayy down and quickly. At the same time, the
heater-resistance goes down causing the tube to draw
much more current. That 4 amp current on the bench goes
to 10A under heavy icing conditions. Here's some data
I gathered on about a half dozen, exemplar 28v tubes.
http://tinyurl.com/cnndlub
even thought the surface of the tube is firmly
locked at 0C in stirred ice, the heater inside
was still running about 140C . . . due to limits
on how low the thermal resistance could be for
an electrically insulating medium around the
heater wires.
Getting a pitot tube to perform well in the icing
tunnel is an almost frenetic hat-dance around limits
and goals. There is more to those devices than meets
the eye.
After being tasked with participating in one
such a hat-dance, I took a hint from Weller
soldering guns, HV supplies in CRT/vacuum
tube TV, and modern microwave magnetron
power supplies and proffered this idea:
Emacs!
Suppose you made a pitot tube out of concentric
stainless steel tubes like this and excited
the assembly with very low voltage, high
current energy from a switchmode power supply
built into the base of the tube. I hypothesized
that one could distribute heating energy between
inside and outside tubes by controlling wall
thickness.
The tube WAS also the heater. No temperature drop
across heater/tube insulation. Plenty of heat
thoughout such that tailored distribution
issues might go away. No independent heater to
fabricate, no heater-tube insulation issues . . .
or LOSSES.
I proposed that to my boss who was willing
to take it up the ladder . . . but the immediate
response was, "We get our pitot tubes from Aero
Instruments. They build pitot tubes, we build
airplanes."
There was a time when I worked my first projects
with Beech that somebody would have taken this
ball down-court to at least see if it bounced.
I hear the Russian space program is turning blue
with loss of grey-mater. See:
http://tinyurl.com/blzjvu3
Some connectors-of-dots in the world wide
aerospace industry have noted that the glow
is off the rose for working on 'rockets and
airplanes'. Young bucks fresh out of school
know they can make more money in information
technologies and consumer materials . . . the
lure that brought many of us to aviation years
ago doesn't work the magic it did back then.
Hot hangars, grease, JP, hydraulic oil and
gouges all over your body have been replaced
with brightly lit, air conditioned, keyboards
and tech benches . . . and low risk of
discomfort.
Russia, like the US, is losing it's intellectual
horsepower and as the grey-beards retire, the
effects are showing.
So, perhaps there's an opportunity for somebody
out there with some metal working skills and
a curious nature. I'd be willing to stroke
the electronics if some one of you could acquire,
bend and weld alloys of steel that might make
good heaters cum pitot tube.
It would be interesting to see if this ball
would at least bounce. Could we learn to "build
the better pitot tube" for MUCH less than
$600?
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator |
mount...
When I took the old alternator mount off the engine, I noticed there was some corrosion
on the engine block under the alternator mount. My new alternator (B&C)
gets its ground through the mount. Can I use and anti-corrosion film such as
ACF-50 on the block before bolting the mount to the engine? Or will that place
resistance in the ground path for the alternator?
Thanks,
Michael-
Message 4
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Subject: | What crimper to use for B&C alternator field terminals... |
Does anyone know what kind of crimper I use for the terminals used on the field
wire for the B&C alternators? Does one of the crimpers from B&C work? Which one?
Thanks,
Michael-
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed |
and fail?
Bill,
Search "switches with faston tabs" in the AeroElectric archives. They
discuss the discoloration of the faston insulation as the result of
switch failure. Time frame of sept 08.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/20/2012 03:52 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> My strobes suddenly stopped flashing.
>
> Stumbling through some basic problem determination, I checked that
> power was getting to Avi-Pak 60W Strobe power supply. Per the Avi-Pak
> documentation I unplugged all 3 of the strobe connectors and plugged
> one in at a time to check for a defective strobe unit.
>
> Everything check out okay except that sometimes I was getting 12+
> volts to the power supply and other times I seemed to be getting about
> 8 volts. Thinking that I may have had a loose connection somewhere, I
> checked the circuit's voltage while wriggling various connection
> points. The voltage sometimes change from 12+ to 8 volts but I
> couldn't correlate the change with any of my wriggling. In addition,
> I would occasionally get a flash or two from the strobes. But again,
> no correlation with my wriggling.
>
> I replaced the Avi-Pak unit with a general purpose, almost plug
> compatible unit from the manufacturer, Nova. It failed to work as
> well. However, it has some diagnostic lights on it which indicated
> that the unit was getting less than 10 volts. At times, the unit
> would flash the strobes for a few seconds, then go back into
> under-voltage mode.
>
> I finally found the culprit while examining my fuse panel. The AMP
> slide on connector for the strobe circuit was singed or burned a bit.
> I replaced it and now everything works fine.
>
> Here are some pics of the connector after I had slit the insulation:
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%201.JPG
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%202.JPG
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%203.JPG
>
> Everything about the crimp appears fine to me. I used a band saw to
> cut half way thru it but it looks solid.
>
> Any thoughts about what would cause the singeing and the variable
> voltage? I'd like to understand what went wrong with this crimp.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill "owner of 2 working strobe power supplies" Watson
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: elt batteries |
Funny. I just received by biennial letter from Emergency Beacon Corp
reminding me that battery replacement is due on my EBC-502 ELT. It goes
on to state that it must be replaced per FAR 91.52. Cost is 83.50 to
ship a replacement pack to me. Fortunately, I no longer own an EBC-502.
Interestingly, 91.52 no longer exists from the best I can tell.
It seems that 91.209 is now the relevant reg and it states in part:
(2) When 50 percent of their useful
life (or, for rechargeable batteries, 50
percent of their useful life of charge)
has expired, as established by the
transmitter manufacturer under its approval.
The new expiration date for replacing
(or recharging) the battery must be
legibly marked on the outside of the
transmitter and entered in the aircraft
maintenance record.
Just another data point.
Bill
On 9/20/2012 4:25 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> You are correct. The main ELT -04 battery is a five year lithium. It
> is the remote batteries than can go 10 years.
> On 9/20/2012 8:38 AM, Ken wrote:
>>
>> The manufacturer's manuals for the ELT's that concern me are on the web.
>>
>> Section 15 of the ACK E-04 manual (P/N E04M REV DATE 02/22/2012
>> Rev 1.6) specifies a 5 year battery life. If there is a 10 year
>> battery the manual does not seem to mention it.
>> Section 11 says the battery is not airworthy after the expiration
>> date on the battery which in my case was just over 5 years. Yes don't
>> forget the additional small battery in the both the buzzer and also
>> in the remote control.
>>
>> My 121.5 ELT with 'D' cells required battery replacement at two years
>> regardless of battery date to remain legal. Not sure if that was a
>> manufacturer thing or an MOT regulation. However battery terminal
>> corrosion became an issue if I waited two years so I changed them out
>> every year.
>>
>> I do value the confirmation emails from the Rescue Center that I
>> receive when I do the manufacturer specified 3 month test on my
>> Canadian registered 406 ELT. Don't know if any other countries do
>> that but it is nice to have confirmation that the satellites are
>> receiving and processing the test signal. Of course I follow the
>> written procedure to make sure I don't accidentally put out a real
>> distress signal.
>>
>> Ken
>>
>> On 20/09/2012 12:00 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>> <kellym@aviating.com>
>>>
>>> On the ACK E-04 it is 10 yrs on lithium main, remote and alarm
>>> batteries. 5 yrs on remote alkaline if you go that route.
>>>
>>> On 9/19/2012 3:34 PM, Ed Holyoke wrote:
>>>> Don't forget the battery in the remote. It has an expiration of 8yrs,
>>>> lithium or 4yrs, alkaline if I remember correctly. If you don't have a
>>>> record of what battery was installed in the remote and when, you
>>>> should replace it and record the due date in your logbook.
>>>>
>>>> Pax,
>>>>
>>>> Ed Holyoke
>>>> A&P
>>>>
>>>> On 9/19/2012 1:39 PM, bob noffs wrote:
>>>>> thanks all,
>>>>> i did change the duracell batteries in my elt today. the elt mfgr
>>>>> specifies duracell. the new set of d batteries have an expiration
>>>>> date of 2022!. don't think i will wait 10 yrs.
>>>>> bob noffs
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 7:28 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
>>>>> <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> My old ELT (10 years old) required new batteries every 24 months.
>>>>>
>>>>> My new ACK 406Mh ELT specifies 5 years for the lithium batteries.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 9/19/2012 7:47 AM, R. curtis wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> starting on my first annual.
>>>>>> do i remember correctly........the d batteries in the elt
>>>>>> must be changed every year?
>>>>>> thanks bob noffs
>>>>>> **
>>>>>> Normally the manufacturer specifies that you use date
>>>>>> coded alkaline batteries, and they are to be changed before
>>>>>> the end of the coded period. They do not have to be changed
>>>>>> each year.
>>>>>> Roger
>>>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Hello listers,
Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A breaker
(or is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the
same size as the fuse link.
I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and telling him
I was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or maybe
Z17) in my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator
going in over voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone
know of anyone who's experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring is more
complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16 way?
Sacha
Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there
Sicily, Italy
Message 8
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Subject: | Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Actually the 22ga wire is perfectly adequate to trip the 5A breaker. The
purpose of the fuse link is to protect the 18ga wire between the buss and
the breaker should it inadvertently short to ground. So the drawing is
correct as shown.
The "normal" failure might be to "stop working" i.e. shut down, but what
about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure where an OV
occurs?? Not familiar with it happening, but it might, it is electronics
after all ?
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of s
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:53 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax
generators?
>
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A
breaker (or
> is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the
same size as
> the fuse link.
>
> I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and
telling him I
> was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or
maybe Z17) in
> my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator
going in over
> voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of
anyone who's
> experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
>
> Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring
is more
> complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16
way?
>
> Sacha
> Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there
> Sicily, Italy
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
I flew one of those flights where you just KNEW we already had two strikes. And
gosh I learned a lot.
I took off from Furnace Creek into a rapidly approaching (astonishing!) black sandstorm.
But the sandstorm quickly outran and engulfed us. Made a 180 out of
the sandstorm to find I had no airspeed indicator. The winds were ferocious and
making Santa Monica with fuel onboard was dicey, KWJF Fox Field (our normal
fuel stop) was closed due to winds. So we stopped in Aqua Dulce...using the stall
warning.
We tried to clear the pitot tube with a coat-hangar wire but no dice. We had inadequate
tools. Next day the mechanic cleared it. Analysis--Mud dauber wasp.
Jeeeze....the thing you learn and shouldn't do again.
But three points: Cover the pitot tube when parked--always. Unless you have one
of those airspeed-operated flapper valves.
A way of ram-rodding the tube would be a step forward in design. But the problem
is usually only discovered after getting airborne. So glancing at the ASI during
the takeoff run will be in my scan, even if Cessnas easily fly themselves
off the ground.
Some bug biologist-psychologist should invent a neat way to keep out dauber wasps.
It would make a good science project. Mud daubers bring down heavy iron too.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383801#383801
Message 10
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Bob,
I'm interested, but I'm unwilling to take on any more projects at
this time. Maybe a couple of years down the road. When I decide to
take on another project I'll drop you a note.
Just a couple of quick questions How many amps at what voltage would be
available and what would you imagine the overall dimensions to be?
I'll keep my eyes out for stainless steel electrical properties and drop
you a note if I see anything that might be useful.
> So, perhaps there's an opportunity for somebody
> out there with some metal working skills and
> a curious nature. I'd be willing to stroke
> the electronics if some one of you could acquire,
> bend and weld alloys of steel that might make
> good heaters cum pitot tube.
>
> It would be interesting to see if this ball
> would at least bounce. Could we learn to "build
> the better pitot tube" for MUCH less than
> $600?
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
Hi Eric
Thx. for sharing your experience.
You mentioned "Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated
flapper valves".
I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 ragwing for 19 years. Twice I got mud dapper
nest in the Pitot tube.
The second time it happened, the wind was howling and I noticed right
after take off, so landed and cleared it. When putting tools away and a
little worried the plane may roll in a pretty big gust (even though I had
wheel chocks in place), I just happened to notice that the airspeed
actuated flapper Pitot cover was fully opened, hmm. Then a few seconds
later I observed a dapper wasp somehow manage in this wicked gusty wind
to land on and crawl inside!
I replaced flapper with a cover and never had another problem.
Ron Parigoris
Message 12
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Sorry list, this was supposed to be to Bob.
do not archive
On 09/22/2012 06:58 PM, rayj wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> I'm interested, but I'm unwilling to take on any more projects at
> this time. Maybe a couple of years down the road. When I decide to
> take on another project I'll drop you a note.
>
> Just a couple of quick questions How many amps at what voltage would
> be available and what would you imagine the overall dimensions to be?
>
> I'll keep my eyes out for stainless steel electrical properties and
> drop you a note if I see anything that might be useful.
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
We have a bad problem with the mud daubers around here. If I leave an
air tool outside for a day, they find it, and build in the inlet. Got
me to thinking, Has anyone had problems with them building in static
intake ports, fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators.
Starting to think my preflight should include all the above.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/22/2012 07:13 PM, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
>
> Hi Eric
>
> Thx. for sharing your experience.
>
> You mentioned "Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated flapper
> valves".
>
> I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 ragwing for 19 years. Twice I got mud dapper
> nest in the Pitot tube.
>
> The second time it happened, the wind was howling and I noticed right
> after take off, so landed and cleared it. When putting tools away and
> a little worried the plane may roll in a pretty big gust (even though
> I had wheel chocks in place), I just happened to notice that the
> airspeed actuated flapper Pitot cover was fully opened, hmm. Then a
> few seconds later I observed a dapper wasp somehow manage in this
> wicked gusty wind to land on and crawl inside!
>
> I replaced flapper with a cover and never had another problem.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
On 9/22/2012 8:42 PM, rayj wrote:
> Has anyone had problems with them building in static intake ports,
> fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators.
Yes, multiple times I've had bugs build a nest in my fuel drains
and vents. My cheap solution:
Go to Walmart and buy a 100 pack of bright orange "fuzzy sticks" for
$0.99. Used to be commonly known as "pipe cleaners". You can find them
in the fabric and crafts section.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kids-Craft-100pk-Fuzzy-Sticks-Neon/19525338
Cut off a 4 inch section. Fold in half, then on each leg halfway up
fold outward.
You end up with something shaped like this: _/\_
Stick the "V" end up in the hole in the fuel drain, gascolator, fuel
vent, etc, with the legs sticking out to the side.
Remove before flight, but in theory air would be able to pass if you
accidentally left them in the fuel vent.
Been doing this for a few years now and no more bug problem in the fuel
drains.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
Great idea!! I was starting to think about covers for everything and
imagining a whole bag full.
I'll definitely be doing this.
THANKS!!
do not archive
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/22/2012 07:55 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 9/22/2012 8:42 PM, rayj wrote:
>> Has anyone had problems with them building in static intake ports,
>> fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators.
>
> Yes, multiple times I've had bugs build a nest in my fuel drains
> and vents. My cheap solution:
>
> Go to Walmart and buy a 100 pack of bright orange "fuzzy sticks" for
> $0.99. Used to be commonly known as "pipe cleaners". You can find
> them in the fabric and crafts section.
>
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kids-Craft-100pk-Fuzzy-Sticks-Neon/19525338
>
> Cut off a 4 inch section. Fold in half, then on each leg halfway up
> fold outward.
>
> You end up with something shaped like this: _/\_
>
> Stick the "V" end up in the hole in the fuel drain, gascolator, fuel
> vent, etc, with the legs sticking out to the side.
>
> Remove before flight, but in theory air would be able to pass if you
> accidentally left them in the fuel vent.
>
> Been doing this for a few years now and no more bug problem in the
> fuel drains.
>
> -Dj
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Thanks Bob,
I almost didn't mention it as I thought it was "obviously wrongh but now I'm glad
I did as I learnt something! (Is there a detailed discussion of how each Z
figure works somewhere that beginners can read?). Still wondering about the diff
between the Z16 and Z17 alternator disconnect wiring.
On 23/set/2012, at 00:50, Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> Actually the 22ga wire is perfectly adequate to trip the 5A breaker. The
> purpose of the fuse link is to protect the 18ga wire between the buss and
> the breaker should it inadvertently short to ground. So the drawing is
> correct as shown.
> The "normal" failure might be to "stop working" i.e. shut down, but what
> about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure where an OV
> occurs?? Not familiar with it happening, but it might, it is electronics
> after all ?
>
> Bob McC
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of s
>> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:53 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax
> generators?
>>
>>
>> Hello listers,
>>
>> Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A
> breaker (or
>> is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the
> same size as
>> the fuse link.
>>
>> I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and
> telling him I
>> was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or
> maybe Z17) in
>> my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator
> going in over
>> voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of
> anyone who's
>> experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
>>
>> Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring
> is more
>> complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16
> way?
>>
>> Sacha
>> Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there
>> Sicily, Italy
>>
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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