AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sat 09/22/12


Total Messages Posted: 16



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:31 AM - Re: Suggestion for Adjustable Regulated DC Power supply (hplevyak)
     2. 11:20 AM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 01:04 PM - ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator mount... (Michael Burbidge)
     4. 01:06 PM - What crimper to use for B&C alternator field terminals... (Michael Burbidge)
     5. 02:09 PM - Re: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail? (rayj)
     6. 02:20 PM - Re: elt batteries (Bill Watson)
     7. 02:53 PM - Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? (s)
     8. 03:52 PM - Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? (Bob McCallum)
     9. 04:49 PM - Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (Eric M. Jones)
    10. 04:58 PM - pitot tube (rayj)
    11. 05:13 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
    12. 05:33 PM - Re: pitot tube (rayj)
    13. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (rayj)
    14. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (Dj Merrill)
    15. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... (rayj)
    16. 09:20 PM - Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? (U)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:31:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Suggestion for Adjustable Regulated DC Power supply
    From: "hplevyak" <hplevyak@me.com>
    Thank-you Bob! -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar North Bend, OH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383765#383765


    Message 2


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    Time: 11:20:07 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
    . . the heater elements still perform per Aero Instruments test-for-certification specs on element amp draw and resistance. So, despite a little brightening of the copper and identical air-flow based on a non-plugged same model p-tube, all is well. Life is interesting. Those heater elements are pretty complex. They appear to be semi-rigid, linear, tube heaters not unlike those one might buy from Cal-Rod . . . In fact, there heater wire is wound around a core but with variable spacing such that x watts are dissipated in one segment, y watts in another, and z watts elsewhere. The probability for ice accretion and risk therefrom varies throughout the geometry of the assembly. The hammer-n-tongs approach is to simply put enough heater in to warm the whole thing up so that adequate calories are always delivered to the worst case location. This would probably double the current draw and make for a very hot tube. On the ground and zero air flow, a heated pitot will achieve cherry red emissions temperatures. In clear air, 300kts, 41K feet and -40C . . . the tube merely heats up to 100C or so. See: http://tinyurl.com/74yr5q8 At 41K, we can see the effect of increase velocity. At 200Kts, certain parts of this particular device rose to about 90 and 110C . . . but as IAS went up sharply in descent they quickly dropped before there was much. Ram Air Temp rise sharply during that maneuver too. Now, pile some super cooled water on or in the tube that becomes hard ice on impact and the tube temperature drops WAaayy down and quickly. At the same time, the heater-resistance goes down causing the tube to draw much more current. That 4 amp current on the bench goes to 10A under heavy icing conditions. Here's some data I gathered on about a half dozen, exemplar 28v tubes. http://tinyurl.com/cnndlub even thought the surface of the tube is firmly locked at 0C in stirred ice, the heater inside was still running about 140C . . . due to limits on how low the thermal resistance could be for an electrically insulating medium around the heater wires. Getting a pitot tube to perform well in the icing tunnel is an almost frenetic hat-dance around limits and goals. There is more to those devices than meets the eye. After being tasked with participating in one such a hat-dance, I took a hint from Weller soldering guns, HV supplies in CRT/vacuum tube TV, and modern microwave magnetron power supplies and proffered this idea: Emacs! Suppose you made a pitot tube out of concentric stainless steel tubes like this and excited the assembly with very low voltage, high current energy from a switchmode power supply built into the base of the tube. I hypothesized that one could distribute heating energy between inside and outside tubes by controlling wall thickness. The tube WAS also the heater. No temperature drop across heater/tube insulation. Plenty of heat thoughout such that tailored distribution issues might go away. No independent heater to fabricate, no heater-tube insulation issues . . . or LOSSES. I proposed that to my boss who was willing to take it up the ladder . . . but the immediate response was, "We get our pitot tubes from Aero Instruments. They build pitot tubes, we build airplanes." There was a time when I worked my first projects with Beech that somebody would have taken this ball down-court to at least see if it bounced. I hear the Russian space program is turning blue with loss of grey-mater. See: http://tinyurl.com/blzjvu3 Some connectors-of-dots in the world wide aerospace industry have noted that the glow is off the rose for working on 'rockets and airplanes'. Young bucks fresh out of school know they can make more money in information technologies and consumer materials . . . the lure that brought many of us to aviation years ago doesn't work the magic it did back then. Hot hangars, grease, JP, hydraulic oil and gouges all over your body have been replaced with brightly lit, air conditioned, keyboards and tech benches . . . and low risk of discomfort. Russia, like the US, is losing it's intellectual horsepower and as the grey-beards retire, the effects are showing. So, perhaps there's an opportunity for somebody out there with some metal working skills and a curious nature. I'd be willing to stroke the electronics if some one of you could acquire, bend and weld alloys of steel that might make good heaters cum pitot tube. It would be interesting to see if this ball would at least bounce. Could we learn to "build the better pitot tube" for MUCH less than $600? Bob . . . Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:04:56 PM PST US
    From: Michael Burbidge <mburbidg@gmail.com>
    Subject: ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator
    mount... When I took the old alternator mount off the engine, I noticed there was some corrosion on the engine block under the alternator mount. My new alternator (B&C) gets its ground through the mount. Can I use and anti-corrosion film such as ACF-50 on the block before bolting the mount to the engine? Or will that place resistance in the ground path for the alternator? Thanks, Michael-


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:06:53 PM PST US
    From: Michael Burbidge <mburbidg@gmail.com>
    Subject: What crimper to use for B&C alternator field terminals...
    Does anyone know what kind of crimper I use for the terminals used on the field wire for the B&C alternators? Does one of the crimpers from B&C work? Which one? Thanks, Michael-


    Message 5


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    Time: 02:09:30 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed
    and fail? Bill, Search "switches with faston tabs" in the AeroElectric archives. They discuss the discoloration of the faston insulation as the result of switch failure. Time frame of sept 08. Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN. "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine On 09/20/2012 03:52 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> > > My strobes suddenly stopped flashing. > > Stumbling through some basic problem determination, I checked that > power was getting to Avi-Pak 60W Strobe power supply. Per the Avi-Pak > documentation I unplugged all 3 of the strobe connectors and plugged > one in at a time to check for a defective strobe unit. > > Everything check out okay except that sometimes I was getting 12+ > volts to the power supply and other times I seemed to be getting about > 8 volts. Thinking that I may have had a loose connection somewhere, I > checked the circuit's voltage while wriggling various connection > points. The voltage sometimes change from 12+ to 8 volts but I > couldn't correlate the change with any of my wriggling. In addition, > I would occasionally get a flash or two from the strobes. But again, > no correlation with my wriggling. > > I replaced the Avi-Pak unit with a general purpose, almost plug > compatible unit from the manufacturer, Nova. It failed to work as > well. However, it has some diagnostic lights on it which indicated > that the unit was getting less than 10 volts. At times, the unit > would flash the strobes for a few seconds, then go back into > under-voltage mode. > > I finally found the culprit while examining my fuse panel. The AMP > slide on connector for the strobe circuit was singed or burned a bit. > I replaced it and now everything works fine. > > Here are some pics of the connector after I had slit the insulation: > https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%201.JPG > https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%202.JPG > https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%203.JPG > > Everything about the crimp appears fine to me. I used a band saw to > cut half way thru it but it looks solid. > > Any thoughts about what would cause the singeing and the variable > voltage? I'd like to understand what went wrong with this crimp. > > Thanks, > Bill "owner of 2 working strobe power supplies" Watson


    Message 6


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    Time: 02:20:35 PM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: elt batteries
    Funny. I just received by biennial letter from Emergency Beacon Corp reminding me that battery replacement is due on my EBC-502 ELT. It goes on to state that it must be replaced per FAR 91.52. Cost is 83.50 to ship a replacement pack to me. Fortunately, I no longer own an EBC-502. Interestingly, 91.52 no longer exists from the best I can tell. It seems that 91.209 is now the relevant reg and it states in part: (2) When 50 percent of their useful life (or, for rechargeable batteries, 50 percent of their useful life of charge) has expired, as established by the transmitter manufacturer under its approval. The new expiration date for replacing (or recharging) the battery must be legibly marked on the outside of the transmitter and entered in the aircraft maintenance record. Just another data point. Bill On 9/20/2012 4:25 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > <kellym@aviating.com> > > You are correct. The main ELT -04 battery is a five year lithium. It > is the remote batteries than can go 10 years. > On 9/20/2012 8:38 AM, Ken wrote: >> >> The manufacturer's manuals for the ELT's that concern me are on the web. >> >> Section 15 of the ACK E-04 manual (P/N E04M REV DATE 02/22/2012 >> Rev 1.6) specifies a 5 year battery life. If there is a 10 year >> battery the manual does not seem to mention it. >> Section 11 says the battery is not airworthy after the expiration >> date on the battery which in my case was just over 5 years. Yes don't >> forget the additional small battery in the both the buzzer and also >> in the remote control. >> >> My 121.5 ELT with 'D' cells required battery replacement at two years >> regardless of battery date to remain legal. Not sure if that was a >> manufacturer thing or an MOT regulation. However battery terminal >> corrosion became an issue if I waited two years so I changed them out >> every year. >> >> I do value the confirmation emails from the Rescue Center that I >> receive when I do the manufacturer specified 3 month test on my >> Canadian registered 406 ELT. Don't know if any other countries do >> that but it is nice to have confirmation that the satellites are >> receiving and processing the test signal. Of course I follow the >> written procedure to make sure I don't accidentally put out a real >> distress signal. >> >> Ken >> >> On 20/09/2012 12:00 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >>> <kellym@aviating.com> >>> >>> On the ACK E-04 it is 10 yrs on lithium main, remote and alarm >>> batteries. 5 yrs on remote alkaline if you go that route. >>> >>> On 9/19/2012 3:34 PM, Ed Holyoke wrote: >>>> Don't forget the battery in the remote. It has an expiration of 8yrs, >>>> lithium or 4yrs, alkaline if I remember correctly. If you don't have a >>>> record of what battery was installed in the remote and when, you >>>> should replace it and record the due date in your logbook. >>>> >>>> Pax, >>>> >>>> Ed Holyoke >>>> A&P >>>> >>>> On 9/19/2012 1:39 PM, bob noffs wrote: >>>>> thanks all, >>>>> i did change the duracell batteries in my elt today. the elt mfgr >>>>> specifies duracell. the new set of d batteries have an expiration >>>>> date of 2022!. don't think i will wait 10 yrs. >>>>> bob noffs >>>>> >>>>> On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 7:28 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com >>>>> <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> My old ELT (10 years old) required new batteries every 24 months. >>>>> >>>>> My new ACK 406Mh ELT specifies 5 years for the lithium batteries. >>>>> >>>>> Bill >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On 9/19/2012 7:47 AM, R. curtis wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> starting on my first annual. >>>>>> do i remember correctly........the d batteries in the elt >>>>>> must be changed every year? >>>>>> thanks bob noffs >>>>>> ** >>>>>> Normally the manufacturer specifies that you use date >>>>>> coded alkaline batteries, and they are to be changed before >>>>>> the end of the coded period. They do not have to be changed >>>>>> each year. >>>>>> Roger >>>>>> >> >> >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:53:33 PM PST US
    Subject: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators?
    From: s <uuccio@gmail.com>
    Hello listers, Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A breaker (or is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the same size as the fuse link. I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and telling him I was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or maybe Z17) in my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator going in over voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of anyone who's experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator? Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring is more complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16 way? Sacha Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there Sicily, Italy


    Message 8


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    Time: 03:52:05 PM PST US
    From: Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators?
    Actually the 22ga wire is perfectly adequate to trip the 5A breaker. The purpose of the fuse link is to protect the 18ga wire between the buss and the breaker should it inadvertently short to ground. So the drawing is correct as shown. The "normal" failure might be to "stop working" i.e. shut down, but what about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure where an OV occurs?? Not familiar with it happening, but it might, it is electronics after all ? Bob McC > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of s > Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:53 PM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? > > > Hello listers, > > Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A breaker (or > is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the same size as > the fuse link. > > I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and telling him I > was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or maybe Z17) in > my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator going in over > voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of anyone who's > experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator? > > Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring is more > complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16 way? > > Sacha > Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there > Sicily, Italy > > _- > ==================================================== > ====== > _- > ==================================================== > ====== > _- > ==================================================== > ====== > _- > ==================================================== > ====== > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:49:18 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    I flew one of those flights where you just KNEW we already had two strikes. And gosh I learned a lot. I took off from Furnace Creek into a rapidly approaching (astonishing!) black sandstorm. But the sandstorm quickly outran and engulfed us. Made a 180 out of the sandstorm to find I had no airspeed indicator. The winds were ferocious and making Santa Monica with fuel onboard was dicey, KWJF Fox Field (our normal fuel stop) was closed due to winds. So we stopped in Aqua Dulce...using the stall warning. We tried to clear the pitot tube with a coat-hangar wire but no dice. We had inadequate tools. Next day the mechanic cleared it. Analysis--Mud dauber wasp. Jeeeze....the thing you learn and shouldn't do again. But three points: Cover the pitot tube when parked--always. Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated flapper valves. A way of ram-rodding the tube would be a step forward in design. But the problem is usually only discovered after getting airborne. So glancing at the ASI during the takeoff run will be in my scan, even if Cessnas easily fly themselves off the ground. Some bug biologist-psychologist should invent a neat way to keep out dauber wasps. It would make a good science project. Mud daubers bring down heavy iron too. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383801#383801


    Message 10


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    Time: 04:58:58 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: pitot tube
    Bob, I'm interested, but I'm unwilling to take on any more projects at this time. Maybe a couple of years down the road. When I decide to take on another project I'll drop you a note. Just a couple of quick questions How many amps at what voltage would be available and what would you imagine the overall dimensions to be? I'll keep my eyes out for stainless steel electrical properties and drop you a note if I see anything that might be useful. > So, perhaps there's an opportunity for somebody > out there with some metal working skills and > a curious nature. I'd be willing to stroke > the electronics if some one of you could acquire, > bend and weld alloys of steel that might make > good heaters cum pitot tube. > > It would be interesting to see if this ball > would at least bounce. Could we learn to "build > the better pitot tube" for MUCH less than > $600? -- Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN. "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine


    Message 11


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    Time: 05:13:36 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
    From: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
    Hi Eric Thx. for sharing your experience. You mentioned "Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated flapper valves". I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 ragwing for 19 years. Twice I got mud dapper nest in the Pitot tube. The second time it happened, the wind was howling and I noticed right after take off, so landed and cleared it. When putting tools away and a little worried the plane may roll in a pretty big gust (even though I had wheel chocks in place), I just happened to notice that the airspeed actuated flapper Pitot cover was fully opened, hmm. Then a few seconds later I observed a dapper wasp somehow manage in this wicked gusty wind to land on and crawl inside! I replaced flapper with a cover and never had another problem. Ron Parigoris


    Message 12


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    Time: 05:33:34 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: pitot tube
    Sorry list, this was supposed to be to Bob. do not archive On 09/22/2012 06:58 PM, rayj wrote: > > Bob, > > I'm interested, but I'm unwilling to take on any more projects at > this time. Maybe a couple of years down the road. When I decide to > take on another project I'll drop you a note. > > Just a couple of quick questions How many amps at what voltage would > be available and what would you imagine the overall dimensions to be? > > I'll keep my eyes out for stainless steel electrical properties and > drop you a note if I see anything that might be useful.


    Message 13


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    Time: 05:43:19 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
    We have a bad problem with the mud daubers around here. If I leave an air tool outside for a day, they find it, and build in the inlet. Got me to thinking, Has anyone had problems with them building in static intake ports, fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators. Starting to think my preflight should include all the above. Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN. "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine On 09/22/2012 07:13 PM, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > Hi Eric > > Thx. for sharing your experience. > > You mentioned "Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated flapper > valves". > > I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 ragwing for 19 years. Twice I got mud dapper > nest in the Pitot tube. > > The second time it happened, the wind was howling and I noticed right > after take off, so landed and cleared it. When putting tools away and > a little worried the plane may roll in a pretty big gust (even though > I had wheel chocks in place), I just happened to notice that the > airspeed actuated flapper Pitot cover was fully opened, hmm. Then a > few seconds later I observed a dapper wasp somehow manage in this > wicked gusty wind to land on and crawl inside! > > I replaced flapper with a cover and never had another problem. > > Ron Parigoris >


    Message 14


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    Time: 05:55:17 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
    From: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
    On 9/22/2012 8:42 PM, rayj wrote: > Has anyone had problems with them building in static intake ports, > fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators. Yes, multiple times I've had bugs build a nest in my fuel drains and vents. My cheap solution: Go to Walmart and buy a 100 pack of bright orange "fuzzy sticks" for $0.99. Used to be commonly known as "pipe cleaners". You can find them in the fabric and crafts section. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kids-Craft-100pk-Fuzzy-Sticks-Neon/19525338 Cut off a 4 inch section. Fold in half, then on each leg halfway up fold outward. You end up with something shaped like this: _/\_ Stick the "V" end up in the hole in the fuel drain, gascolator, fuel vent, etc, with the legs sticking out to the side. Remove before flight, but in theory air would be able to pass if you accidentally left them in the fuel vent. Been doing this for a few years now and no more bug problem in the fuel drains. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:19:31 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
    Great idea!! I was starting to think about covers for everything and imagining a whole bag full. I'll definitely be doing this. THANKS!! do not archive -- Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN. "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine On 09/22/2012 07:55 PM, Dj Merrill wrote: > > On 9/22/2012 8:42 PM, rayj wrote: >> Has anyone had problems with them building in static intake ports, >> fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators. > > Yes, multiple times I've had bugs build a nest in my fuel drains > and vents. My cheap solution: > > Go to Walmart and buy a 100 pack of bright orange "fuzzy sticks" for > $0.99. Used to be commonly known as "pipe cleaners". You can find > them in the fabric and crafts section. > > http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kids-Craft-100pk-Fuzzy-Sticks-Neon/19525338 > > Cut off a 4 inch section. Fold in half, then on each leg halfway up > fold outward. > > You end up with something shaped like this: _/\_ > > Stick the "V" end up in the hole in the fuel drain, gascolator, fuel > vent, etc, with the legs sticking out to the side. > > Remove before flight, but in theory air would be able to pass if you > accidentally left them in the fuel vent. > > Been doing this for a few years now and no more bug problem in the > fuel drains. > > -Dj >


    Message 16


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    Time: 09:20:36 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators?
    From: U <uuccio@gmail.com>
    Thanks Bob, I almost didn't mention it as I thought it was "obviously wrongh but now I'm glad I did as I learnt something! (Is there a detailed discussion of how each Z figure works somewhere that beginners can read?). Still wondering about the diff between the Z16 and Z17 alternator disconnect wiring. On 23/set/2012, at 00:50, Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > Actually the 22ga wire is perfectly adequate to trip the 5A breaker. The > purpose of the fuse link is to protect the 18ga wire between the buss and > the breaker should it inadvertently short to ground. So the drawing is > correct as shown. > The "normal" failure might be to "stop working" i.e. shut down, but what > about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure where an OV > occurs?? Not familiar with it happening, but it might, it is electronics > after all ? > > Bob McC > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list- >> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of s >> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:53 PM >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax > generators? >> >> >> Hello listers, >> >> Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A > breaker (or >> is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the > same size as >> the fuse link. >> >> I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and > telling him I >> was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or > maybe Z17) in >> my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator > going in over >> voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of > anyone who's >> experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator? >> >> Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring > is more >> complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16 > way? >> >> Sacha >> Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there >> Sicily, Italy >> >> _- >> ==================================================== >> ====== >> _- >> ==================================================== >> ====== >> _- >> ==================================================== >> ====== >> _- >> ==================================================== >> ====== >> >> > > > > > >




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