Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:02 AM - Re: Wiring advice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 09:45 AM - SD-8 S704-1 relay with or without Diode when using OVM-14? (plevyakh)
3. 03:35 PM - Re: Good news . . . and bad news (David Lloyd)
4. 03:50 PM - Re: Need Help Troubleshooting (Steve Thomas)
5. 05:11 PM - Resurrecting a battery (rayj)
6. 06:52 PM - Re: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas (Chris)
7. 06:59 PM - Angular Hall Effect Sensor (user9253)
8. 07:05 PM - Re: Resurrecting a battery (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
9. 07:44 PM - Re: Resurrecting a battery (rayj)
10. 11:24 PM - Re: Resurrecting a battery (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring advice |
>If I use the panel radio I will be mounting headset jacks on the
>panel as well and that might require me to use a ground isolation,
>even though it would be easier and probably more convenient to just
>ground straight to the firewall without isolation.
I do not understand this statement.
>
>I was planning on grounding on the engine side with a bolt through
>the firewall (need isolators?) where the negative battery, engine
>ground strap, and alternator ground will attach. On the inside I
>wanted to use a forest of tabs, but I think I would rather bring a
>negative buss closer to the panel and locate it there. I also plan
>on running a positive buss close to the panel as well.
What are you calling a 'positive bus'? Are you using
breakers or fuses? The bus that distributes power to either of
those devices is a component of their fabrication
and installation.
> I have reviewed the appendix from the book and none are really
> close to what I am looking for. I am trying to figure out the best
> method to do this and also avoid radio noise later as well. The
> fewer wires through the firewall the better. Aside from the main
> power and ground wire penetrating the firewall I will also have the
> CD Solenoid power wire, the starter solenoid wire
>
>Please offer any info/help you can.
Please review the grounding philosophies illustrated
in Figure Z-15, View A
http://tinyurl.com/6m3bk8k
and Chapter 5 of the 'Connection. Then let us know in
what manner the techniques suggested present an
extra-ordinary problem for the assembly of your
airplane -or- do not meet new design goals.
If you have a design goals issue, we need to understand
what it is before well considered advice can be offered.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | SD-8 S704-1 relay with or without Diode when using |
OVM-14?
Guys,
I'm trying to finish up wiring of the backup SD-8amp alternator. In Z-10/8 the
S704-1 relay shows a jumper wire from COM to the + relay coil. The CROWBAR
OVM is then wired also across the coil (+) & (-) tabs.
B&C has a drawing that shows the S704-1 relay being wired with a Diode across the
coil.
Reference: http://www.bandc.biz/pdfs/S704-1_Installation.pdf
Am I correct in leaving the Diode OUT? The reason being that I'm using the OVM-14
across the coil and adding the Diode would defeat the OVM's function.
Thanks for your guidance.
Howard
--------
Howard Plevyak
GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio
hplevyak@mac.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384086#384086
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/s704_1_relay_bandc_625.gif
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z10_sd8_arch_snipit_197.gif
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Good news . . . and bad news |
Bob,
The graph did not show V and A legends on the pic that you included.
The 1562 that I recently purchased and put on a standard open cell 12v auto
battery had the following.
I monitored the batt. voltage with a DVM. The max chg. voltage went to just
under 14.1 v.
The stabilized float voltage was just under 13.1 v.
Does this seem about what you viewed on your tests...??
Dave
____________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 10:08 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Good news . . . and bad news
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> I picked up the latest version of Schumacher's SEC1562
> charger at Wallyworld last week. Got it on a site-to-store
> free of shipping charges for about $21.
>
> The first plot for a charge cycle demonstrated the highly
> recommended bulk charge ramp capped off with an absorption
> charge plateau.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/9s7kpww
>
> I did a series of charge discharge cycles alternating between
> the 1562 and my 10+ year old Battery Tender. Wasn't paying
> much attention to details of the data. Each test cycle
> took 14+ hours.
>
> When I merged the data on to a common plot, it became obvious
> that the test battery, while relatively young, was incapable
> of delivering closely matched pairs of charge/discharge cycle.
>
> Normally, one expects a new SVLA battery to be good for
> several dozen deep discharges before demonstrated capacity
> begins to fall. Not so with the test article I've been
> using.
>
> Test results:
>
> I'm unable to resolve the difference between recharge
> performance of the 1562 versus the BT. Both chargers
> seem to put about as much snort into the battery but
> any real differences are buried in the uncertainties
> generated by the degrading battery.
>
> I can confidently assert that the SEM51562 is still
> an exceptional value. It now features 6/12 auto-switching,
> it charges at a rate about 2x that of the Battery
> Tender. I see that the BT Jr sells on Ebay for about $25
> with free shipping, so cost differential has dropped markedly
> over the past few years.
>
> Conclusion:
>
> I cannot claim that one device is superior to the other
> based on measurements. The recharge voltage profiles
> for the BT are markedly shy of the idealized profiles
> cited by industry. Just how much difference it makes
> remains unmeasured.
>
> Using a chemical conversation system as a 'transfer
> standard' for evaluation of charger performance is
> fraught with risk . . . which rose up and bit me.
>
> Anywho, I've got a shiny new 1562 that's going out
> to the wood shop to maintain some batteries I have
> stored out there. Next time I get my hands on a fresh,
> mid-sized SLVA battery, I'll try again. Don't throw
> out your Battery Tenders! I'm keeping all three of
> mine.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
I ran the tests and it looks like I have a bad regulator. Test #4, where you check
the voltage of pin #4, failed. It was showing only 2.8 volts. I'll contact
B & C and figure out where to go. Thanks for the help, Bob.
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
On Sep 25, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Steve Thomas <lists@stevet.net> wrote:
>
> Not yet. Will do ASAP and reply.
>
>
> Steve Thomas
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2012, at 12:50 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
>> Have you run the traps on
>> the LR3 regulator per B&C documents?
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Resurrecting a battery |
Greetings list,
I have a couple of dead batteries. Not discharged but killed. They show
only approx 10.5-11 volts when taken off the charger. Ron was
discussing his experience with putting 15V at .5 amps on some batteries
and resurrecting them to some degree. I have a bench supply that I
could set at 15 V and .5 amps. My question is whether it will likely
damage the bench supply to hook it to a battery. My limited knowledge
says that it shouldn't make any difference to the power supply what is
hooked to it as long as it doesn't feed electrons to the supply.
I've got nothing to loose as far as the batteries are concerned, but I'd
hate to cook my bench supply. It's an old Heathkit IP-28 and says 30V
and 1amp so it shouldn't tax the supply too hard.
Just checking with the experts so I don't kill my power supply.
Thanks
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
Message 6
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| Subject: | AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
Correction noted.
thanks
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas
--> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
CORRECTION
>Those alternators are NOT designed to run in parallel on a single bus.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Angular Hall Effect Sensor |
Bob N,
The N305 Hall effect sensor is no longer available. It was specified in this article:
"Angle of Attack Indicator" by Dave Barker.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Angle_of_Attack/2008_12_21.pdf
The author has substituted part number SS49. His updated article is available here: http://www.barkeraircraft.com/files/AOA_rDisplay.pdf
Now for my question:
Can the SS49 HALL sensor be used to sense the angular position of a control surface,
specifically the horizontal stabilizer position on a Kitfox? The total
angular movement is only about 10 degrees. Ray Allen sells a linear POT for $35
that could be used. But I thought that a Hall Effect sensor would be a more
elegant solution with no moving parts, except for a magnet attached to the control
surface. The Specs for the SS49 are available here:
http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=3108&la_id=1&pr_id=36530
My friend who is building the Kitfox intends to install a Dynon SkyView EFIS.
It has 5VDC available to power the SS49. The SkyView also has a dedicated input
pin for elevator trim. Can the SS49 Hall sensor output be connected directly
to the SkyView 0 to 5vdc input without any buffering or amplifying circuitry?
The SkyView utilizes onscreen wizards for calibrating sensors.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384114#384114
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
Hi Ray
How many aH battery are they?
If close to 12 to 18aH aqnd AGM, the good bet would be to try and use the
500mA transformers and circuit board I sent along with the batteries I
offered. They limit current to ~ 500mA and the control board will turn
off once they reach ~ 15.4 volts. I would try a few cycles where you
bring down the batteries to ~ 12.4 volts. It may take several days to get
the control board to turn off, especially the first time.
If you have an adjustable power supply, set it to constant current ~ 350
to 500mAs and monitor the voltage. This is not going to be a very fast
process, it may take days to get to 15 volts. Once you get to 15.4 volts,
let it dwell there for 2 hours at least.
I Please report back if you were able to revive.
I did this with AGM batteries, if you have a flooded cell battery,
you don't have much to lose, but listen carefully and decrease
current if things get too bubbly. I tried putting two of the 500mA
chargers in parallel on the 12ah batteries and didn't like the noises
too much when the voltage got to the upper 14s on some of the batteries.
Using only one 5600mA charger kept things happy.
I have a sneaky suspicion that when I took two of the bad batteries I
had, after they reached the 15.4 volts and the controller turned off and
put them in parallel on just one 500mA charger and let them reach 15.4
volts (which took a long time) it may have helped a little, the first
time anyway. I didn't run a capacity test, but the voltage seemed to
hold up better after I let the batteries sit for several days.
Ron Parigoris
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
Ron, these are flooded cell auto batteries. One I think is a
deep-cycle. I put one of your transformers across the terminals and "It
don't work no more". That is what leads me to worry about the power supply.
I don't think that the power supplies I have are constant current. I
think the current setting is a max allowable setting, but I'm not sure.
By the way. I'm getting good use out of those batteries. Thanks again
for offering them here, even though it was more headache for you.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/27/2012 09:01 PM, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
>
> Hi Ray
>
> How many aH battery are they?
>
> If close to 12 to 18aH aqnd AGM, the good bet would be to try and use
> the 500mA transformers and circuit board I sent along with the
> batteries I offered. They limit current to ~ 500mA and the control
> board will turn off once they reach ~ 15.4 volts. I would try a few
> cycles where you bring down the batteries to ~ 12.4 volts. It may take
> several days to get the control board to turn off, especially the
> first time.
>
> If you have an adjustable power supply, set it to constant current ~
> 350 to 500mAs and monitor the voltage. This is not going to be a very
> fast process, it may take days to get to 15 volts. Once you get to
> 15.4 volts, let it dwell there for 2 hours at least.
>
> I Please report back if you were able to revive.
>
> I did this with AGM batteries, if you have a flooded cell battery,
> you don't have much to lose, but listen carefully and decrease current
> if things get too bubbly. I tried putting two of the 500mA chargers in
> parallel on the 12ah batteries and didn't like the noises too much
> when the voltage got to the upper 14s on some of the batteries. Using
> only one 5600mA charger kept things happy.
>
> I have a sneaky suspicion that when I took two of the bad batteries I
> had, after they reached the 15.4 volts and the controller turned off
> and put them in parallel on just one 500mA charger and let them reach
> 15.4 volts (which took a long time) it may have helped a little, the
> first time anyway. I didn't run a capacity test, but the voltage
> seemed to hold up better after I let the batteries sit for several days.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
Hi Ray
You mention that the transformer no longer works after you put it across
the battery. Was that with the circuit board connected to the
transformer? All you need to do is connect the board in reverse to the
battery for a split second and it fries the board. If that's the
case, I would say there is a good chance the transformer is still good.
You can connect the transformer directly to the battery without the
board. Just to make sure, connect a volt meter to the transformer to see
it's working and you get the polarity correct, if you have a meter
that can measure current, make sure you are pumping in 500m As or there
about. You will need to monitor the voltage, once you get to ~15.4, let
it go for another two hours.
How many amp hours are the batteries? If they are 35aHs, put two of the
500mA transformers on them in parallel.
Ron Parigoris
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