Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:58 AM - $20 B-crimp tool find (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 10:22 AM - Right Angle Fast-on (Michael Wynn)
3. 11:05 AM - Re: Right Angle Fast-on (James Kilford)
4. 12:19 PM - Re: Right Angle Fast-on (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 12:28 PM - Re: Right Angle Fast-on (Jeff Luckey)
6. 06:21 PM - Re: OEM or home-made ELT antennas? (dlj04)
7. 06:46 PM - Re: Right Angle Fast-on (MLWynn@aol.com)
8. 09:33 PM - Re: Right Angle Fast-on (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 09:33 PM - Re: Right Angle Fast-on (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | $20 B-crimp tool find |
A few weeks ago I mentioned a find on eBay for
a b-crimp tool for $20 postage paid.
Emacs!
The picture looked good but you couldn't see die details
in the ad. I ordered one and produced the following pictures.
Emacs!
Emacs!
This isn't an AMP or Molex tool but the dies are the right
shape. The big disappointment was that I couldn't find a b-crimp
terminal anyplace in my goodies with which to try it out. I'll
be going to Wichita next weekend for some remodeling supplies,
I'll find some terminals and report further.
In the mean time, I wouldn't discourage any of you from acquiring
one of these. The price is right. I don't the smallest die will
close sufficiently to do d-sub b-crimp pins but it should handle
everything larger like the AMP strobe supply connectors and possibly
down to the .060" miniature pins in Molex connectors.
Watch this space . . .
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Right Angle Fast-on |
Hi all,
?
I am installing an electronic ignition in my RV 8 and have a place where a
coax wire is split to two fast-on's and then into a coil.? The turn is a ri
ght angle.? Someone posted on VAF that the right angle bend caused the wire
to fatigue at the fast-on and fail.? They suggested re-routing the wires s
o that the right angle is eliminated.? I have looked at my installation and
can do that, but it will require a lot of brou-ha.? The question is, does
anyone make a right angle adaptor for fast-ons?? Something like a female en
d, right angle, male end so you could plug one into the coil and then the c
oax into the adaptor.? I am not sure how you would crimp one that was just
a right angle.? The other option is to crimp it and then bend the fast-on 9
0 degrees.? I am afraid that would weaken the connector in an unacceptable
manner.
?
Thoughts?
?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Right Angle Fast-on |
Hi Michael,
I think I see what you're saying...
Could you introduce an extra loop of coax shortly before the two
connectors, so that the mechanical stress and vibration is taken out of
the bend -- like the loop you might put into a copper capillary line from
the engine to the panel?
Alternatively, is there some way of forcing the 90 bend in the coax into a
particular shape with some mechanical support? In bonsai you wrap thick
copper wire around young branches to guide them, and it strikes me that
something similar might be fashioned for your coax?
FWIW.
James
On 8 October 2012 18:20, Michael Wynn <mlwynn@aol.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am installing an electronic ignition in my RV 8 and have a place where a
> coax wire is split to two fast-on's and then into a coil. The turn is a
> right angle. Someone posted on VAF that the right angle bend caused the
> wire to fatigue at the fast-on and fail. They suggested re-routing the
> wires so that the right angle is eliminated. I have looked at my
> installation and can do that, but it will require a lot of brou-ha. The
> question is, does anyone make a right angle adaptor for fast-ons?
> Something like a female end, right angle, male end so you could plug one
> into the coil and then the coax into the adaptor. I am not sure how you
> would crimp one that was just a right angle. The other option is to crimp
> it and then bend the fast-on 90 degrees. I am afraid that would weaken the
> connector in an unacceptable manner.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV 8 Finishing
> San Ramon, CA
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Right Angle Fast-on |
At 01:04 PM 10/8/2012, you wrote:
Hi Michael,=C2
I think I see what you're saying...=C2
Could you introduce an extra loop of coax shortly
before the two connectors, so that the mechanical
stress and vibration =C2 is taken out of the bend
-- like the loop you might put into a copper
capillary line from the engine to the panel?=C2
Alternatively, is there some way of forcing the
90 bend in the coax into a particular shape with
some mechanical support? =C2 In bonsai you wrap
thick copper wire around young branches to guide
them, and it strikes me that something similar
might be fashioned for your coax?
FWIW.=C2
James
Good thought. I was going to ask if he could "drive past"
the termination points on the coils and then do a 270-degree
turn to bring the fast-ons back around to the coils with a more
generous bend relief. Say about 2" diameter circle?
I'm really sorry that this system got coax cable speced into
it. Klaus and I got into a little tiff some years back when
I suggested ordinary tefzel shielded wire . . . MUCH more
user friendly. Got into a 'discussion' about nano-second
rise time differences between coax and shielded wire.
IMHO insignificant to the design goal of lighting fires
in the cylinders. The measurable and demonstrable difference
between coax and shielded wire STILL left the system
about 100 times better than a magneto . . . which
runs the engine just fine but with fixed timing. Be
that as it may, your choices are restricted by
the selection of wire between power supply and the
coils.
There ARE right angle fast-on terminals
[]
Emacs!
But they are not PIDG and I'd be reluctant to use them
under the cowl.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Right Angle Fast-on |
Michael,
Would something like pictured here:
http://www.elliottelectric.com/Products/Detail.aspx?v=TAB
<http://www.elliottelectric.com/Products/Detail.aspx?v=TAB&c=RA18250A>
&c=RA18250A
Do what you want?
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wynn
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2012 10:21
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Right Angle Fast-on
Hi all,
I am installing an electronic ignition in my RV 8 and have a place where a
coax wire is split to two fast-on's and then into a coil. The turn is a
right angle. Someone posted on VAF that the right angle bend caused the
wire to fatigue at the fast-on and fail. They suggested re-routing the
wires so that the right angle is eliminated. I have looked at my
installation and can do that, but it will require a lot of brou-ha. The
question is, does anyone make a right angle adaptor for fast-ons? Something
like a female end, right angle, male end so you could plug one into the coil
and then the coax into the adaptor. I am not sure how you would crimp one
that was just a right angle. The other option is to crimp it and then bend
the fast-on 90 degrees. I am afraid that would weaken the connector in an
unacceptable manner.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: OEM or home-made ELT antennas? |
TSO requirements are not necessarily associated with the airframe
certification, but in order to operate in the national airspace system
certain "approved" items are needed, such as ELTs and transponders. The
requirement is in Part 91 (general operating and flight rules), not Part
23 or some other airworthiness requirement so it's the same for all
aircraft.
Many early ELTs had very primitive circuit designs in order to operate
at 121.5 and 243 MHz, which resulted in antennas that didn't look like
traditional quarter-wave whips at either frequency. The antenna is part
of the design.
Also, if you are to operate an aircraft with an ELT installed after
March 1998, in order to be "approved" it has to be certified to TSO
C91a, not the older C91. Many of the bargain ELTs in flymarkets work,
but are illegal to use once they have been removed from the aircraft in
which they were originally installed. If you have a C91 ELT there had
better be a logbook entry documenting its installation prior to 1998.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Right Angle Fast-on |
Thank you all for your insights. I have scratched my head about this a
bunch. I don't really have two inches from the baffle to coils. It is a
little late to try to put them in a different spot. Too much re-engineeri
ng.
Considering what Bob is saying about the discussion with Klaus, maybe I
should terminate the coax an inch or two away and crimp or solder on a sho
rt
piece of 18 gauge tefzel and us that to make the bend. Add a couple of
supports and I should be okay. Does that seem reasonable?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 10/8/2012 12:22:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
At 01:04 PM 10/8/2012, you wrote:
Hi Michael,=C2
I think I see what you're saying...=C2
Could you introduce an extra loop of coax shortly before the two
connectors, so that the mechanical stress and vibration =C2 is taken out o
f the bend
-- like the loop you might put into a copper capillary line from the engin
e
to the panel?=C2
Alternatively, is there some way of forcing the 90 bend in the coax into a
particular shape with some mechanical support? =C2 In bonsai you wrap thic
k
copper wire around young branches to guide them, and it strikes me that
something similar might be fashioned for your coax?
FWIW.=C2
James
Good thought. I was going to ask if he could "drive past"
the termination points on the coils and then do a 270-degree
turn to bring the fast-ons back around to the coils with a more
generous bend relief. Say about 2" diameter circle?
I'm really sorry that this system got coax cable speced into
it. Klaus and I got into a little tiff some years back when
I suggested ordinary tefzel shielded wire . . . MUCH more
user friendly. Got into a 'discussion' about nano-second
rise time differences between coax and shielded wire.
IMHO insignificant to the design goal of lighting fires
in the cylinders. The measurable and demonstrable difference
between coax and shielded wire STILL left the system
about 100 times better than a magneto . . . which
runs the engine just fine but with fixed timing. Be
that as it may, your choices are restricted by
the selection of wire between power supply and the
coils.
There ARE right angle fast-on terminals
But they are not PIDG and I'd be reluctant to use them
under the cowl.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Right Angle Fast-on |
At 08:45 PM 10/8/2012, you wrote:
>Thank you all for your insights. I have scratched my head about
>this a bunch. I don't really have two inches from the baffle to
>coils. It is a little late to try to put them in a different
>spot. Too much re-engineering. Considering what Bob is saying
>about the discussion with Klaus, maybe I should terminate the coax
>an inch or two away and crimp or solder on a short piece of 18 gauge
>tefzel and us that to make the bend. Add a couple of supports and I
>should be okay. Does that seem reasonable?
I wouldn't do that. All coax or all shielded. At the time
I published this Shop Note
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/RG58/RG58.html
several folks had already replaced RG-58 (suffering
from temperature effects under the cowl) with Tefzel
shielded wire and were satisfied with the results.
I can't speak to the value of sparks jumping 1.5"
gaps between coil towers but if that's a performance
benchmark, be aware that shielded wire substitution
may pollute that particular test result.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Right Angle Fast-on |
Hmmm. . . I overlooked the obvious question: How
much room DO you have between coil and baffle?
At 08:45 PM 10/8/2012, you wrote:
>Thank you all for your insights. I have scratched my head about
>this a bunch. I don't really have two inches from the baffle to
>coils. It is a little late to try to put them in a different
>spot. Too much re-engineering. Considering what Bob is saying
>about the discussion with Klaus, maybe I should terminate the coax
>an inch or two away and crimp or solder on a short piece of 18 gauge
>tefzel and us that to make the bend. Add a couple of supports and I
>should be okay. Does that seem reasonable?
I wouldn't do that. All coax or all shielded. At the time
I published this Shop Note
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/RG58/RG58.html
several folks had already replaced RG-58 (suffering
from temperature effects under the cowl) with Tefzel
shielded wire and were satisfied with the results.
I can't speak to the value of sparks jumping 1.5"
gaps between coil towers but if that's a performance
benchmark, be aware that shielded wire substitution
may pollute that particular test result.
Bob . . .
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