Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:38 AM - New LOMU member . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 12:58 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 11/05/12 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 02:50 PM - relay schematic (Dan Billingsley)
4. 03:12 PM - Re: New LOMU member . . . (Christopher Cee Stone)
5. 05:57 PM - EBUS Circuit Protection (Paul Zimmer)
6. 08:17 PM - A200 and Flightcom squeal.. *** UPDATE!! Bob Nuckolls? Help? (SIDESLIP)
7. 08:17 PM - Re: A200/Flightcom 403 radio not transmitting- plane grounded!! (SIDESLIP)
Message 1
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| Subject: | New LOMU member . . . |
At 08:47 PM 11/10/2012, you wrote:
Re. Metcal
You guys got my curiosity peeked... so I bid and won one on Ebay...
$28 bucks. It just arrived and I took it up to the shop to try it
out... Alas no tip. So I'll will see what I can find on ebay.
Which model did you buy? Are you sure of which
style of tip to acquire?
Question: Most of the soldering I do is wire splice and wire to
connectors...Tefzel 18-24 ga. single and shielded. Only occasional
PCB assembly and/or repair. Most being SMT now but some through
hole. What tips would you recommend?
Here's a catalog of tip styles offered in the STTC
series tips
http://tinyurl.com/d2p28z9
Note the part numbers have a 'x' in them.
Put a "1" in that space and you get a 700
degree tip, a "0" gets you a 600 degree
tip.
About any style tip will get you 'soldered
up for general wiring tasks. I.e., if you
need to solder something together, don't
have an iron, and run to the local RS or
hardware store to get one, what ever they
have in stock has 99% probability of getting
your task done. So the short answer is,
"don't pass up a bargain on any tip style".
Most of my bench work including SMD down to
1206 components is done with tips like 04,
25 or 37. The heaviest tasks like assembling
an enclosure out of copper clad or putting a
terminal on a fat wire calls for a 17 or 65.
Installing a .025 or .050 pitch SMD calls for
the smallest of tips like a 22.
I've acquired these or similar in both 600 and
700 degree sizes. I've not seen much difference
in outcome of the joint that I could attribute
to tip temp.
By the way, when installing new fine pitch
integrated circuits on a board, I find that
boards manufactured with the legacy tin/lead plating
can be simply fluxed, the part held in place,
and solder already in place simply pushed from
the far end of the pad toward the pin to be
soldered. No additional solder required, joints
come out looking like an oven reflow job.
I've only had to order specific tips and pay
close to full freight (12 to 18 dollars) a couple
times. Just ordered some 17's under that condition.
All other tips were acquired in a what-you-see-is-
what-you-get assortment of new/used tips. A little
fist full of used tips can be VERY reasonable.
Over the years, I think I've had perhaps one or two
tips in bundles of used tips be inop.
Good luck and welcome to LOMU (Loyal Order of
Metcal Users).
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 11/05/12 |
At 08:47 PM 11/10/2012, you wrote:
>Re. Metcal
>You guys got my curiosity peeked... so I bid and won one on Ebay...
>$28 bucks. It just arrived and I took it up to the shop to try it
>out... Alas no tip. So I'll will see what I can find on ebay.
>
>Question: Most of the soldering I do is wire splice and wire to
>connectors...Tefzel 18-24 ga. single and shielded. Only occasional
>PCB assembly and/or repair. Most being SMT now but some through
>hole. What tips would you recommend?
If your system accepts the STTC tips, drop
me your mailing address and I'll send you
a 'handy' tip. It takes awhile to march
through the process of buying off eBay
and we can get you going in the mean time.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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I'm sure this has been here before, yet I couldn't find exactly what I need in
the archives. I'm looking for what I believe would be a DPDT relay controlled
by two buttons on the stick. Specifically it is to control an In-flight adjust
Ivo Prop.
Thanks,
Dan
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: New LOMU member . . . |
The Metcal is the SP200. Also Eric chimed in that the holder is integral
as it may provide a control function when the handpiece is holstered.
Thanks for the tip on tips...
Re SMT; I have been using paste on the pads and re-flowing with my trusty
Weller. Works fine most of the time.
chris
Re. Metcal
> You guys got my curiosity peeked... so I bid and won one on Ebay... $28
> bucks. It just arrived and I took it up to the shop to try it out... Alas
> no tip. So I'll will see what I can find on ebay.
>
> Which model did you buy? Are you sure of which
> style of tip to acquire?
>
>
> Question: Most of the soldering I do is wire splice and wire to
> connectors...Tefzel 18-24 ga. single and shielded. Only occasional PCB
> assembly and/or repair. Most being SMT now but some through hole. What
> tips would you recommend?
>
> Here's a catalog of tip styles offered in the STTC
> series tips
>
> http://tinyurl.com/d2p28z9
>
> Note the part numbers have a 'x' in them.
> Put a "1" in that space and you get a 700
> degree tip, a "0" gets you a 600 degree
> tip.
>
> About any style tip will get you 'soldered
> up for general wiring tasks. I.e., if you
> need to solder something together, don't
> have an iron, and run to the local RS or
> hardware store to get one, what ever they
> have in stock has 99% probability of getting
> your task done. So the short answer is,
> "don't pass up a bargain on any tip style".
>
> Most of my bench work including SMD down to
> 1206 components is done with tips like 04,
> 25 or 37. The heaviest tasks like assembling
> an enclosure out of copper clad or putting a
> terminal on a fat wire calls for a 17 or 65.
> Installing a .025 or .050 pitch SMD calls for
> the smallest of tips like a 22.
>
> I've acquired these or similar in both 600 and
> 700 degree sizes. I've not seen much difference
> in outcome of the joint that I could attribute
> to tip temp.
>
> By the way, when installing new fine pitch
> integrated circuits on a board, I find that
> boards manufactured with the legacy tin/lead plating
> can be simply fluxed, the part held in place,
> and solder already in place simply pushed from
> the far end of the pad toward the pin to be
> soldered. No additional solder required, joints
> come out looking like an oven reflow job.
>
> I've only had to order specific tips and pay
> close to full freight (12 to 18 dollars) a couple
> times. Just ordered some 17's under that condition.
> All other tips were acquired in a what-you-see-is-
> what-you-get assortment of new/used tips. A little
> fist full of used tips can be VERY reasonable.
> Over the years, I think I've had perhaps one or two
> tips in bundles of used tips be inop.
>
> Good luck and welcome to LOMU (Loyal Order of
> Metcal Users).
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | EBUS Circuit Protection |
I didn't include circuit protection for my EBUS, that is powered through a
B&C Essential bus diode. The best explanation for not doing so is that it
seemed unnecessary at the time I was designing the electrical system, and
protection was not called for in the Z-12 drawing after which my electrical
system in based. I am second guessing myself now, especially given the
documentation that comes with the EBUS diode shows a breaker (not to exceed
25A).
As far as I can reason, the only purpose for circuit protection would be to
protect the diode itself. If the diode was not present and the bus bar
that is the EBUS was simply an extension of the Main bus, circuit
protection between the bus bars would not be called for.
Would you recommend adding circuit protection between EBUS and main bus?
Will the Essential Bus Diode open if its current rating is sufficiently
exceeded, or will it allow current to pass (albeit in both directions)? It
seems that circuit protection would be a good thing since you would have no
good way to tell if the diode had been compromised (unless of course it
opened after being sufficiently abused).
Thanks in advance for your help.
Paul
Message 6
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| Subject: | A200 and Flightcom squeal.. *** UPDATE!! Bob Nuckolls? |
Help?
So, fellas,
I figured I'd start a new thread about this, since I have narrowed the issue down.
So, the A200 was bench tested, and tested out fine. The only item that seemed out
of whack, was the side tone, which was set VERY high. I cleaned the terminals
on the back of the radio prior to install. I tightened the radio into its tray
firmly, and proceeded to test. The squeal seemed to be gone on 129.10, both
with engine running, and without. This problem I BELIEVE is definitely a squelch
problem. I transmitted the squeal, and while mid transmit, unplugged the
mic cord. The squeal stopped immediately. Then I tried messing with different
volume/squelch settings on the flightcom. To no avail, squeal still present....
Here is where it gets weird.... I pulled the mic away from my face, NO MORE SQUEAL!
Well, very very little, and when I tapped the mic, it tried to come back,
but then faded. So, I figured, let's try the tower. I turned my head looking
over my right shoulder, and ZERO squeal. When I am facing straight ahead, and
get it to squeal, while it is mid squeal, I cover the mic with my hand, and it
deadens it considerably!
IF this was wiring, here is how I disprove that theory....
The handheld transmits and receives PERFECTLY and gives 5/5 no matter what! Worked
seamless. Flip back to the A200, and squeal! Keep in mind, the handheld is
wired into the flightcom as well, and shares all of the same wiring as the A200!
So, the final question........ Could this be as simple as the mic gain on
the 200? With the engine running, there is zero interference from the engine.
On BOTH radios. I think that this proves that the grounds are good, wiring is
good and the flightcom is good. I still get the strobe POP when they fire, but
I get that SAME pop in the Cessna 172M I fly! So, that is an acceptable noise
for me. And since a certified very high dollar factory built airplane has strobe
noise, I'm not too concerned about this one. It really is quiet. So......
MIC GAIN, OR NOT TO MIC GAIN ADJUST? Or try changing antennas? Thoughts? After
changing the side tone, it is MUCH better. Still not acceptable, but it DID get
better. I've read a lot of people suggesting to adjust the mic gains, with
great results for them, yet others say it won't do a thing. It is DEFINITELY feedback
like you'd hear from an amplifier too close to an electric guitar.
I feel that I'm right on the edge of solving this problem.....I'm thinking, that
if I can change antennas and that resolves it, it may be as simple as a faulty
antenna, or maybe even not the right one?
It's would be great to hear some feedback from the pro Bob Nuckolls.
Thanks in advance!!!
Chad Scriver
--------
C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=387581#387581
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: A200/Flightcom 403 radio not transmitting- plane |
grounded!!
So, fellas,
I figured I'd start a new thread about this, since I have narrowed the issue down.
So, the A200 was bench tested, and tested out fine. The only item that seemed out
of whack, was the side tone, which was set VERY high. I cleaned the terminals
on the back of the radio prior to install. I tightened the radio into its tray
firmly, and proceeded to test. The squeal seemed to be gone on 129.10, both
with engine running, and without. This problem I BELIEVE is definitely a squelch
problem. I transmitted the squeal, and while mid transmit, unplugged the
mic cord. The squeal stopped immediately. Then I tried messing with different
volume/squelch settings on the flightcom. To no avail, squeal still present....
Here is where it gets weird.... I pulled the mic away from my face, NO MORE SQUEAL!
Well, very very little, and when I tapped the mic, it tried to come back,
but then faded. So, I figured, let's try the tower. I turned my head looking
over my right shoulder, and ZERO squeal. When I am facing straight ahead, and
get it to squeal, while it is mid squeal, I cover the mic with my hand, and it
deadens it considerably!
IF this was wiring, here is how I disprove that theory....
The handheld transmits and receives PERFECTLY and gives 5/5 no matter what! Worked
seamless. Flip back to the A200, and squeal! Keep in mind, the handheld is
wired into the flightcom as well, and shares all of the same wiring as the A200!
So, the final question........ Could this be as simple as the mic gain on
the 200? With the engine running, there is zero interference from the engine.
On BOTH radios. I think that this proves that the grounds are good, wiring is
good and the flightcom is good. I still get the strobe POP when they fire, but
I get that SAME pop in the Cessna 172M I fly! So, that is an acceptable noise
for me. And since a certified very high dollar factory built airplane has strobe
noise, I'm not too concerned about this one. It really is quiet. So......
MIC GAIN, OR NOT TO MIC GAIN ADJUST? Or try changing antennas? Thoughts? After
changing the side tone, it is MUCH better. Still not acceptable, but it DID get
better. I've read a lot of people suggesting to adjust the mic gains, with
great results for them, yet others say it won't do a thing. It is DEFINITELY feedback
like you'd hear from an amplifier too close to an electric guitar.
I feel that I'm right on the edge of solving this problem.....I'm thinking, that
if I can change antennas and that resolves it, it may be as simple as a faulty
antenna, or maybe even not the right one?
It's would be great to hear some feedback from the pro Bob Nuckolls.
Thanks in advance!!!
Chad Scriver
--------
C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=387582#387582
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