Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:34 AM - Re: Re: Advisability of using anti-corrosion lubricant on contacts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 08:11 AM - Idiot light circuits (Bob Verwey)
3. 09:01 AM - Re: Idiot light circuits (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: Indicator Help (Richard Tasker)
5. 03:33 PM - Re: Aeroled wiring (Mike Fontenot)
6. 04:56 PM - Re: Aeroled wiring ()
7. 06:16 PM - Re: Aeroled wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Advisability of using anti-corrosion lubricant |
on contacts
At 10:58 PM 1/2/2013, you wrote:
What kind of connectors and what finish
on the pins?
Power through Mil-C-26482 circular connectors with M39029 crimped
contacts. Signals through M24308 DSub connectors with M39029 crimped contacts.
The M39029 contacts are typically gold plated copper alloy. However
the female contact for the circular connector seems to have a
stainless steel socket.
I have Corrosion X and LPS 1, 2, and 3 in stock.
I note that the spec on Corrosion X says it can be applied to
"electrical and avionics components such as micro switches, Cannon
plugs, antenna bases, circuit breakers, and bus bars.
The warning on Corrosion X in aircraft pertains to a research paper
into the the affects that the lubricity of Corrosion X could have on
friction mated structural components in shear. Nothing to do with use
on electrical components.
I also have the normal run of behind-the-firewall connectors in the
form of spades and ring terminals (forest of spade tabs for ground,
bus bar ring terminals etc). These might benefit from some corrosion
protection as well.
What do you think. Is a little corrosion X in order.
Qualification for the connector materials you've
cited is rigorous. Their suitability to task has
be demonstrated by decades of service history
in a full range of applications. I cannot recall
having encountered a connector failure due to
environmental stresses within limits for which
the connector was designed. Connectors fail mostly
due to installation error or gross abuse that would
affect not only the connector but much of the system
hardware around it.
Other than addition of moisture displacing 'stuff'
in the faying services of bolt-up joints, I see no
value in application of 'more protection' for a
condition that has no demonstrable risk. I
ndiscriminate
use of such products seems more likely to raise
risks for unintended consequences (like just plain
messy) than to mitigate real risks.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Idiot light circuits |
I am hoping someone can help with a robust water temp and oil pressure
idiot light circuit/s.
The aim is to get a flashing warning with a reset button, that times out to
an adjustable period, of say 30 seconds, before re-ignition.
I plan to use dedicated probes for these circuits.
My temperature probe is 175 ohms at 20 deg C and 20 ohms at 110 deg C.
The oil pressure probe shows 9 ohms at 0 pressure and 60 ohms at 80 psi.
Best...
Bob Verwey
IO470 Bonanza A35 ZU-DLW
V6 Chevy Safari ZU-AJF
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Idiot light circuits |
At 10:10 AM 1/3/2013, you wrote:
>I am hoping someone can help with a robust water temp and oil
>pressure idiot light circuit/s.
>The aim is to get a flashing warning with a reset button, that times
>out to an adjustable period, of say 30 seconds, before re-ignition.
>
>I plan to use dedicated probes for these circuits.
>My temperature probe is 175 ohms at 20 deg C and 20 ohms at 110 deg C.
>The oil pressure probe shows 9 ohms at 0 pressure and 60 ohms at 80 psi.
>
>Best...
>
>Bob Verwey
>IO470 Bonanza A35 ZU-DLW
>V6 Chevy Safari ZU-AJF
>
I'm aware of no off-the-shelf solutions to your
design goal. The functionality you describe
can be implemented with discrete components
consisting of two comparators (one for each
temperature sensor) and some logic gates
configured to do some timing for flashing
and hold-off intervals.
The ECB used to craft our 9012 wigwag flasher
is one of a family of 'do-lots' boards on
which I will build a constellation of
products. The 9012 board has two inputs
to analog-digital converters, two outputs
that drive lamps and a digital input for
a 'cancel' push button.
Perhaps one of our software gurus would
like to step up to this application. If so,
the hardware and packaging is done.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Indicator Help |
You are correct in your analysis except you neglected to note that the 5K pot is
in series with a 1K resistor. With the
5K pot the voltage going into the op amp will vary from 0.21V to 1.26V. With a
10K pot it will vary from 0.11V to
1.26V. This will cause a small dead band in the indication at the bottom end of
the travel of the actuator while the
actuator moves enough to cause the output to move from 0.11V to 0.21V - almost
10% of its travel. If you parallel a 10K
resistor with the pot the op amp will once again see 0.21V to 1.26V and the indicator
will properly indicate the
actuator position.
Of course, depending on how much the actuator actually moves this may be irrelevant.
Dick Tasker.
hooverra wrote:
>
> [quote="retasker(at)optonline.net"]Here is the schematic for the Ray Allen indicator.
As shipped it uses a 5k pot. Since the wiper of the pot drives a high
impedance op amp node you could just add a 10K resistor in parallel with the
> 10K pot in your actuator (between white and yellow) and the LEDs should work
properly.
>
>
> Dick Tasker
>
>
> Dick,
> I believe adding a 10k parallel fixed resistor wil not add anything to the issue.
True the total load on the power supply would be equal but the voltage divider
provided by the potentiometer would be unaffected. At the center of travel
the source impedience of the potentiometer should look like 2.5k with a 5k
linear pot and 5k with a 10 k pot. The input of the indicator should not care
if it is a high impedience >100k. If less than that it will become more noticeably
nonlinear.
>
> Ralph
>
> --------
> Ralph & Laura Hoover
> RV7A N527LR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=391511#391511
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Aeroled wiring |
I have the AeroLeds (two of the combined nav light/white strobe units)
installed on my trike (Z19 RB). I wired up as per their instructions but
they exhibit a small 'three click' noise in my headsets every time they
flash. Not very loud but frustrating since all the other electrics work
just fine.
I've not had time to do further debugging since early last year/2012 but I
tried their suggestions of ferrite wraps. This did not help.
On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 07:43 PM 1/2/2013, you wrote:
>
> Bob, I believe the "victim"(s) are coax antenna and associated radios.
> The "antagonist", I'm not sure. I did speak to Dean at Aeroled, and I
> remember him talking about these lights not having a capacitor discharge,
> therfore the noise characteristics were different than "Whelan" type
> strobes. How the shielding breaks the propagation of noise, I have no idea.
>
> It's going to be months before I will have the strobes and radios powered
> up, but I'll let you know how I make out. Wiring has been installed, but no
> connections made. I'm planning to go to Sun & Fun so hopefully the
> Aeroled people are there and I will have a talk with them again.
> **
>
>
> Yes, the noise is very different. While
> h.v. strobe systems are replete with fast-rise
> current/voltage waveforms at the flash rate
> of the strobes, the LED supply noise is
> an artifact of the switchmode, constant
> current power supply typically used to
> drive leds.
>
> If the AEROLED product generates noises at
> unacceptable levels, it's likely to be
> CONDUCTED noise that will propagate right
> down the power lines, shielded or not.
>
> Have Dean give me a call any time. My mobile
> phone is 316-209-7528. I'd like to explore
> his perceptions of noise issues for his product.
> I think we can be of service and perhaps save
> future customers from jumping unnecessary
> hoops.
>
> I'm 99% sure that shielding these wires is
> of no value. If there are noise problems to
> be addressed, then filters located at the
> source are called for.
>
>
> **
>
> ** Bob . . .
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Mike
>
> ===============================
> Mike Fontenot
> Apex Consulting & Services LLC
> Lakewood, Colorado
> 303 / 731-6645
> mikef AT apexconsultingservices DOT com
> ===============================
> *
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Aeroled wiring |
Did you use the latest wiring diagram off their website? The one that
comes with the units is out of date.
-James
Berkut/Race 13
www.berkut13.com
From: Mike Fontenot
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Aeroled wiring
I have the AeroLeds (two of the combined nav light/white strobe units)
installed on my trike (Z19 RB). I wired up as per their instructions
but they exhibit a small 'three click' noise in my headsets every time
they flash. Not very loud but frustrating since all the other electrics
work just fine.
I've not had time to do further debugging since early last year/2012 but
I tried their suggestions of ferrite wraps. This did not help.
On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
At 07:43 PM 1/2/2013, you wrote:
Bob, I believe the "victim"(s) are coax antenna and associated
radios. The "antagonist", I'm not sure. I did speak to Dean at
Aeroled, and I remember him talking about these lights not having a
capacitor discharge, therfore the noise characteristics were different
than "Whelan" type strobes. How the shielding breaks the propagation of
noise, I have no idea.
It's going to be months before I will have the strobes and radios
powered up, but I'll let you know how I make out. Wiring has been
installed, but no connections made. I'm planning to go to Sun & Fun so
hopefully the Aeroled people are there and I will have a talk with them
again.
Yes, the noise is very different. While
h.v. strobe systems are replete with fast-rise
current/voltage waveforms at the flash rate
of the strobes, the LED supply noise is
an artifact of the switchmode, constant
current power supply typically used to
drive leds.
If the AEROLED product generates noises at
unacceptable levels, it's likely to be
CONDUCTED noise that will propagate right
down the power lines, shielded or not.
Have Dean give me a call any time. My mobile
phone is 316-209-7528. I'd like to explore
his perceptions of noise issues for his product.
I think we can be of service and perhaps save
future customers from jumping unnecessary
hoops.
I'm 99% sure that shielding these wires is
of no value. If there are noise problems to
be addressed, then filters located at the
source are called for.
Bob . . .
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
===========-- Mike=======Mike
FontenotApex Consulting & Services LLCLakewood, Colorado303 / 731-6645
mikef AT apexconsultingservices DOT
com========================
=======
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Aeroled wiring |
At 05:32 PM 1/3/2013, you wrote:
>I have the AeroLeds (two of the combined nav light/white strobe
>units) installed on my trike (Z19 RB). I wired up as per their
>instructions but they exhibit a small 'three click' noise in my
>headsets every time they flash. Not very loud but frustrating since
>all the other electrics work just fine.
>
> I've not had time to do further debugging since early last
> year/2012 but I tried their suggestions of ferrite wraps. This did not help.
. . . and I wouldn't expect them to help.
What 'black boxes' are driving the headsets?
Do you have an intercom? Does a radio also
speak to the headsets?
Bob . . .
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