Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:30 AM - Crimping Question (Kent Ogden)
2. 06:53 AM - Re: Crimping Question (Stein Bruch)
3. 07:04 AM - Re: Crimping Question (Bill Watson)
4. 07:31 AM - Re: Crimping Question (Tim Olson)
5. 04:36 PM - Re: Lithium batteries redux (Robert Borger)
6. 05:57 PM - Re: vhf transponder interference (jappie)
Message 1
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Subject: | Crimping Question |
Hi All,
I am building an RV-10 and getting to the point where I need to think
about electrical components and systems. I have a question about crimped
connections: Is it a good (or bad) idea to put some electrical grease on
the wire and/or connector before making the crimp? I have found that this
helps the trailer light connections in my vehicle to survive the road salt
over the winter, but that is a completely different environment. Any
thoughts/comments appreciated.
More questions to follow as I move forward . . .
Kent Ogden
RV-10 #40710
Message 2
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Subject: | Crimping Question |
Hi Kent,
On airplanes there is no need to do that extra step (in fact it could create
some un-wanted gremlins later on). Just do a good job crimping and you'll
be fine. A solid crimp will be excellent and will be as good as any other
type of connection.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent
Ogden
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 8:29 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crimping Question
Hi All,
I am building an RV-10 and getting to the point where I need to think about
electrical components and systems. I have a question about crimped
connections: Is it a good (or bad) idea to put some electrical grease on
the wire and/or connector before making the crimp? I have found that this
helps the trailer light connections in my vehicle to survive the road salt
over the winter, but that is a completely different environment. Any
thoughts/comments appreciated.
More questions to follow as I move forward . . .
Kent Ogden
RV-10 #40710
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Question |
I'm not an authority here but I'd like to compare my answer to others so
here goes; it's unnecessary and therefore may just complicate your
work. The crimping specs and procedures don't require dielectric grease
to perform as designed so don't bother.
Doing the electrical and panel work on mine was probably the most
satisfying part of my build. Partly because it required some design and
integration work that wasn't "CNC'd and pre-drilled". Partly because it
was fun to learn the right ways to do things like crimping and wire
bundling after having hacked away at various trailer harnesses, auto
wiring and even some certified glider wiring (whoops!).
You have all the resources you need between Vans plans and these
lists... Enjoy!
Bill "missing the build but enjoying the '10" Watson
On 1/16/2013 9:29 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am building an RV-10 and getting to the point where I need to think
> about electrical components and systems. I have a question about
> crimped connections: Is it a good (or bad) idea to put some
> electrical grease on the wire and/or connector before making the
> crimp? I have found that this helps the trailer light connections in
> my vehicle to survive the road salt over the winter, but that is a
> completely different environment. Any thoughts/comments appreciated.
>
> More questions to follow as I move forward . . .
>
> Kent Ogden
>
> RV-10 #40710
>
> *
> *
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Question |
One big difference between trailers and planes is the quality of the wire. I
f you use airplane wiring on your trailer, you probably wouldn't have much p
roblems with your trailer either. Not to mention the goldplated contacts on m
any aircraft parts.
Tim
On Jan 16, 2013, at 9:04 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> I'm not an authority here but I'd like to compare my answer to others so h
ere goes; it's unnecessary and therefore may just complicate your work. The
crimping specs and procedures don't require dielectric grease to perform as
designed so don't bother.
>
> Doing the electrical and panel work on mine was probably the most satisfyi
ng part of my build. Partly because it required some design and integration
work that wasn't "CNC'd and pre-drilled". Partly because it was fun to lea
rn the right ways to do things like crimping and wire bundling after having h
acked away at various trailer harnesses, auto wiring and even some certified
glider wiring (whoops!).
>
> You have all the resources you need between Vans plans and these lists... E
njoy!
>
> Bill "missing the build but enjoying the '10" Watson
>
> On 1/16/2013 9:29 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I am building an RV-10 and getting to the point where I need to think abo
ut electrical components and systems. I have a question about crimped conne
ctions: Is it a good (or bad) idea to put some electrical grease on the wir
e and/or connector before making the crimp? I have found that this helps th
e trailer light connections in my vehicle to survive the road salt over the w
inter, but that is a completely different environment. Any thoughts/comment
s appreciated.
>>
>> More questions to follow as I move forward . . .
>>
>> Kent Ogden
>>
>> RV-10 #40710
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Lithium batteries redux |
Gents,
With the Boeing 787 Dreamliner being grounded till their Li batteries can be checked,
I figure it's a good time to report on my new AeroVoltz LiFePo battery.
I said that I'd report on any testing I did on the AeroVoltz battery. Today I
turned on the master which powered up the, Turbo Control Unit (Rotax 914), the
GRT EIS4000 Engine Information System and the Airmaster AC200 prop controller.
I then turned on the MicroAir 760 Comm radio and MicroAir T2000 transponder.
With the comm radio tuned between ASOS, Ground Control & Tower (I swapped between
them) and the transponder set on ALT DISPLAY (so the encoder was fired
up as well), the voltage started at 12.4 Volts. It took almost exactly 20 minutes
for the voltage to sag down to 11 Volts. When the voltage went to 10.9 Volts,
I terminated the test and put the battery on cell balance charge.
So there you have it. 20 minutes on what I would consider the minimum load. If
for any reason I needed to be in the air longer than that to make it to the
closest airport and that airport had a tower, I would probably shut down the radio
and, maybe, the transponder till they were needed. Maybe even pull the breaker
on the prop controller till needed. That would leave the only load as
the EIS and TCU which should extend the battery life further.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Jan 8, 2013, at 4:20 PM, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
Bob,
You may very well be correct, but I've gone out on a limb that I trust will support
me and the aircraft.
I have purchased and installed an Aerovoltz 12 Cell EV02 LiFePo battery in my Europa.
The LiFePo battery is not supposed to be the fire hazard that the LiFe
battery is. It is amazingly small and light. About 12 lbs lighter than the
Odyssey it replaces.
I would not have done this had my Rotax 914 still been electric dependent with
two electric fuel pumps. about 2 years ago I replaced one of the electric pumps
with an engine driven, mechanical pump so the engine will continue to operate
should the electrics go totally dead.
So far, in 2 hours of testing on the ground and 1 hour in the air, all seems well.
It spins the Rotax on startup just like the Odyessy. I purchased the special
charger that will do fast, 5A, charge; slow. 2A, charge; maintenance, .1A,
charge/float and cell balancing. I have not done any time/power testing. I
need to see how long it will run the radio, transponder and GRT EIS 4000 and
then test with only the radio and EIS. When this is done, I will report the results.
The seller of the battery did warn not to discharge below 9v as that would probably
permanently damage the battery. And if discharged to below 11 volts, it
must be recharged in the cell balance mode.
Isn't this one reason why we call it Experimental?
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: vhf transponder interference |
hello
Went to my hangar last week, started to remove radio equipment. Took the coax cable
and brought it to work to show to the "experts", Electronic Dept.
One BNC connector is a twist (screw-in) type, I find that cheap to use on aircraft
(personal opinion). Anyway, we started un-twisting the connector and wow,
no crimp with the middle pin, is that normal ? and shield was almost gone !!
see picture.
Coax is (was) RG58C/U and will be replaced by RG142.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392472#392472
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/coax_455.jpg
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