Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:11 AM - Re: Crimping Question (Kent Ogden)
2. 08:06 AM - Re: Re: Crimping Question (JOHN TIPTON)
3. 08:21 AM - Corrosion prevention, WAS: Crimping Question (BobsV35B@aol.com)
4. 09:28 AM - Re: vhf transponder interference (jappie)
5. 09:56 AM - Re: Re: vhf transponder interference (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:58 AM - Re: Corrosion prevention, WAS: Crimping Question (JOHN TIPTON)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Crimping Question |
Thanks for all the responses on the dielectric grease question. I guess I
will ponder it a bit more, but I probably won't use it on connectors that
will be hard to get to in the future or are in a protected area. I was
initially thinking about the stall warning switch in the wing leading edge
(I did install it, I believe not everyone does). If you were in the
clouds or light rain, I'm sure moisture will enter the notch in the
leading edge and probably soak the switch/connectors. There's an access
plate though, so if there's a problem it's easy to get to. I will have
AOA as well so this shouldn't be a critical component to lose.
For really nasty environments like on my trailer, I also coat any butt
splices with this stuff: http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=
1076
This stuff is great at sealing a connection, also says it's fire resistant
so maybe safe to use in a plane. It's kind of like a thin RTV when you
put it on without the RTV smell. Dries pretty hard but still a little
flexible. My trailer lights used to give me fits because the mounting
studs were also the ground connection to the frame, and when they rusted
it was lights out. After installing new lights and coating the studs with
this stuff the problems were all cured.
Kent Ogden
RV-10 #40710
>>> "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> 1/17/2013 9:21 AM >>>
et>
I'd go with using grease used sparingly and selectively.
Grease keeps out all sort of environmental contaminants. What seems wrong
about this is that grease certainly is an insulator, but so is any space
that it fills, and filling up any empty spaces with grease prevents water,
air and nervous sweat from getting in there.
In electronics, thermally conductive grease serves the same purpose but
adds high thermal conductivity to the joint. The caveat "thin layer"
always appears in the instructions, since a thick layer reduces both the
thermal and electrical properties.
I heard a story of one particularly brilliant electronic engineer who
finished each prototype with a dollop of grease in the corner of the box.
He said if a loose piece of solder or cut wire showed up, that's where it
would wind up.
But yeah, grease attracts dirt too, so use sparingly.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392491#392491
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Crimping Question |
Hi Kent
What I think you need is ACF-50 anti corrosion spray - fantastic stuff,
I've seen a TV coated with this, and placed in a fish tank - TV still
worked
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Ogden
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 2:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Question
Thanks for all the responses on the dielectric grease question. I
guess I will ponder it a bit more, but I probably won't use it on
connectors that will be hard to get to in the future or are in a
protected area. I was initially thinking about the stall warning switch
in the wing leading edge (I did install it, I believe not everyone
does). If you were in the clouds or light rain, I'm sure moisture will
enter the notch in the leading edge and probably soak the
switch/connectors. There's an access plate though, so if there's a
problem it's easy to get to. I will have AOA as well so this shouldn't
be a critical component to lose.
For really nasty environments like on my trailer, I also coat any butt
splices with this stuff:
http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1076
This stuff is great at sealing a connection, also says it's fire
resistant so maybe safe to use in a plane. It's kind of like a thin RTV
when you put it on without the RTV smell. Dries pretty hard but still a
little flexible. My trailer lights used to give me fits because the
mounting studs were also the ground connection to the frame, and when
they rusted it was lights out. After installing new lights and coating
the studs with this stuff the problems were all cured.
Kent Ogden
RV-10 #40710
>>> "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> 1/17/2013 9:21 AM >>>
<emjones@charter.net>
I'd go with using grease used sparingly and selectively.
Grease keeps out all sort of environmental contaminants. What seems
wrong about this is that grease certainly is an insulator, but so is any
space that it fills, and filling up any empty spaces with grease
prevents water, air and nervous sweat from getting in there.
In electronics, thermally conductive grease serves the same purpose
but adds high thermal conductivity to the joint. The caveat "thin layer"
always appears in the instructions, since a thick layer reduces both the
thermal and electrical properties.
I heard a story of one particularly brilliant electronic engineer who
finished each prototype with a dollop of grease in the corner of the
box. He said if a loose piece of solder or cut wire showed up, that's
where it would wind up.
But yeah, grease attracts dirt too, so use sparingly.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronicscom/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?AeroEle &nbp;
.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 3
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| Subject: | Corrosion prevention, WAS: Crimping Question |
Good Morning John,
Just as a small point of possible interest, the gentleman who developed the
ACF-50 material has branched out on his own and developed what he calls
Corrosion X. He claims it will do everything ACF-50 will do and do it better.
I have seen the TV set playing in ACF-50 and talked to the developer about
both products. I have been using Corrosion X as he suggests for many
years. Works great!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
In a message dated 1/18/2013 10:07:59 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jmtipton@btopenworld.com writes:
Hi Kent
What I think you need is ACF-50 anti corrosion spray - fantastic stuff,
I've seen a TV coated with this, and placed in a fish tank - TV still worked
John
----- Original Message -----
From: _Kent Ogden_ (mailto:ogdenk@upstate.edu)
(mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com)
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 2:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Question
Thanks for all the responses on the dielectric grease question. I guess I
will ponder it a bit more, but I probably won't use it on connectors that
will be hard to get to in the future or are in a protected area. I was
initially thinking about the stall warning switch in the wing leading edge (I
did install it, I believe not everyone does). If you were in the clouds or
light rain, I'm sure moisture will enter the notch in the leading edge and
probably soak the switch/connectors. There's an access plate though, so
if there's a problem it's easy to get to. I will have AOA as well so this
shouldn't be a critical component to lose.
For really nasty environments like on my trailer, I also coat any butt
splices with this stuff: _http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1076_
(http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1076)
This stuff is great at sealing a connection, also says it's fire resistant
so maybe safe to use in a plane. It's kind of like a thin RTV when you
put it on without the RTV smell. Dries pretty hard but still a little
flexible. My trailer lights used to give me fits because the mounting studs were
also the ground connection to the frame, and when they rusted it was
lights out. After installing new lights and coating the studs with this stuff
the problems were all cured.
Kent Ogden
RV-10 #40710
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: vhf transponder interference |
ha !
I've just learned that Twist Type BNC connectors should be use with solid center
conductor only....
JP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392588#392588
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: vhf transponder interference |
At 11:26 AM 1/18/2013, you wrote:
>
>ha !
>
>I've just learned that Twist Type BNC connectors should be use with
>solid center conductor only....
I would argue further that twist on connectors should
not be used for any connector. Well, with one exception.
Those 'wire nuts' favored by electrical contractors for
the wiring of buildings are very interesting examples
for the achievement of high-pressure, gas-tight contact
with wires using low force, solderless techniques.
Emacs!
This type of twist-on connector brings a number of circular
cross-sections into contact with each other. Two circles
contact each other with zero-area . . . i.e. relatively
small forces can produce very high pressures that will
offer good electrical connection as long as there are no
extra-ordinary environmental effects. This is why
wire-nuts are not recommended for any vehicular application.
Twist-on connectors for coax attempt to develop long
lasting, high pressure connection to copper strands being
backed up by PLASTIC. Further, environmental
stresses on the made up joint are much more severe
than the protected confines of your house's breaker
and switch boxes.
Contrary to the inventor's fondest wishes, the twist-on
coax connector was designed to fail.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Corrosion prevention, WAS: Crimping Question |
Hi (Old) Bob
I'll check the 'Corrosion X' out - cheers
John (RV9a - England)
----- Original Message -----
From: BobsV35B@aol.com
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 4:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Corrosion prevention, WAS: Crimping
Question
Good Morning John,
Just as a small point of possible interest, the gentleman who
developed the ACF-50 material has branched out on his own and developed
what he calls Corrosion X. He claims it will do everything ACF-50 will
do and do it better. I have seen the TV set playing in ACF-50 and talked
to the developer about both products. I have been using Corrosion X as
he suggests for many years. Works great!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
In a message dated 1/18/2013 10:07:59 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jmtipton@btopenworld.com writes:
Hi Kent
What I think you need is ACF-50 anti corrosion spray - fantastic
stuff, I've seen a TV coated with this, and placed in a fish tank - TV
still worked
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Ogden
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 2:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Question
Thanks for all the responses on the dielectric grease question. I
guess I will ponder it a bit more, but I probably won't use it on
connectors that will be hard to get to in the future or are in a
protected area. I was initially thinking about the stall warning switch
in the wing leading edge (I did install it, I believe not everyone
does). If you were in the clouds or light rain, I'm sure moisture will
enter the notch in the leading edge and probably soak the
switch/connectors. There's an access plate though, so if there's a
problem it's easy to get to. I will have AOA as well so this shouldn't
be a critical component to lose.
For really nasty environments like on my trailer, I also coat any
butt splices with this stuff:
http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1076
This stuff is great at sealing a connection, also says it's fire
resistant so maybe safe to use in a plane. It's kind of like a thin RTV
when you put it on without the RTV smell. Dries pretty hard but still a
little flexible. My trailer lights used to give me fits because the
mounting studs were also the ground connection to the frame, and when
they rusted it was lights out. After installing new lights and coating
the studs with this stuff the problems were all cured.
Kent Ogden
RV-10 #40710
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