Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:56 AM - Re: LED light experiment (Andrewjames)
2. 01:57 AM - Re: LEDs (Andrewjames)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: LED light experiment (Eric M. Jones)
4. 07:26 AM - Re: Load Calculations and bus layout for comment (user9253)
5. 09:54 AM - Re: Re: LED light experiment (SWAN MGT LLC/M WYNN)
6. 02:18 PM - Re: Grounding a Super Cub (Peter Pengilly)
7. 02:59 PM - Re: Grounding a Super Cub (Tundra10)
8. 04:37 PM - Re: Grounding a Super Cub (Charlie England)
9. 08:36 PM - Re: Grounding a Super Cub (Tundra10)
10. 09:18 PM - Re: Grounding a Super Cub (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 10:10 PM - Re: Grounding a Super Cub (Tundra10)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: LED light experiment |
[quote="wynaire(at)citlink.net"]Hello Eric,
Many thanks for the "hand-holding exercise." I envy your expertise. What [project]
seemed simple becomes a bit complicated, though doable, I hope.
This morning my experimenting led to placing a white [6000k] 10 watt LED being
a FAA nav green (blue) glass lens. The resultant visible color was not even
close to green. Thanks for the tip on the FAA wanting a specific color in wavelengths.
At least I know where to start, once back in the lab (basement shop).
At least so far, I have the white strobe light (color) nailed down. That's a
start!
Do you [or anyone reading this] have a suggestion as to how to best measure lumens?
Would an older type of photo light-meter work in this case, held a set
distance for each test?
As well, does any one know why the LED manufacturers use a "flexible clear colloid"
to cover the active LED material? Is this an inexpensive way to seal
the active material, or something else? I want to mount the end of a polished
acrylic rod as close as possible to a LED, for light transmission. This colloid
material is fragil. Several LED OEM's have not responded to this question.
My best regards,
Mike
Moab, UT
***********
> ---
Hello. I am not wellknown to led lights and you seems to be experienced person.
I want to install led lights in my home. What is your suggestion?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393219#393219
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
wynaire(at)citlink.net wrote:
> Thanks Eric M J,
> You (and others) have provided here a wealth of info that obviously will go
> a long way to shortening the [my] trial and error period. Kudos to your
> reply, your web page design and the info therein. Bach at you after I
> "smoke" a few more LED's. ;)
> Mike
> Moab, UT
> *****************
>
>
> ---
hello I need to buy led lights in bulk for my house. Any reliable source which
can provide me best possible price
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393220#393220
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: LED light experiment |
> Hello. I am not well known to led lights and you seems to be experienced person.
I want to install led lights in my home. What is your suggestion?
> AndrewJames
For DIYers and LED flashlights I refer people to Deal Extreme (DX.com)
For household lighting, the big-box stores are selling now. The price is high but
the selection is good and getting better. By year's end it will be a whole
new world for lighting.
FYI, Cree is now marketing led chips of >200 lumens/watt.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393222#393222
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Load Calculations and bus layout for comment |
A half amp can be saved by reducing the holding current of the master relay after
starting. This subject has been discussed here in the past. Or the master
can be shut off after starting and an automotive relay turned on in parallel
(with engine starting disabled).
The "Charge LED" current seems excessive by a factor of 10. It is not needed anyway
because the SkyView has built-in low voltage warning.
The O.V. relay coil current is too high. Relays are available with less than 0.1
amp coil current.
The landing light does not need to be counted as part of the continuous load.
After landing, the battery should be put on a charger - maintainer.
The second SkyView can be turned off most of the time and used only when needed.
Or consider a D-180 or other EFIS that uses less current. (And less weight,
less cost)
I would definitely have an autopilot. To me, that is more important than a second
EFIS.
The flight control indicators are all built into the SkyView. Separate indicators
are not needed.
The Rotax voltage regulator / rectifier is the weak link in the charging system.
It should be kept cool! And not operated at maximum.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393223#393223
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: LED light experiment |
Hi. My advice is to go to EBay.com and search for "LED lights." There are
many to chose from. Often the seller offers basic instructions for use. Good
luck,
Mike
***********
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrewjames" <adambrooksabs@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 2:54 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED light experiment
> <adambrooksabs@gmail.com>
>
> [quote="wynaire(at)citlink.net"]Hello Eric,
> Many thanks for the "hand-holding exercise." I envy your expertise. What
> [project] seemed simple becomes a bit complicated, though doable, I hope.
> This morning my experimenting led to placing a white [6000k] 10 watt LED
> being a FAA nav green (blue) glass lens. The resultant visible color was
> not even close to green. Thanks for the tip on the FAA wanting a specific
> color in wavelengths. At least I know where to start, once back in the
> lab (basement shop).
>
> At least so far, I have the white strobe light (color) nailed down.
> That's a start!
>
> Do you [or anyone reading this] have a suggestion as to how to best
> measure lumens? Would an older type of photo light-meter work in this
> case, held a set distance for each test?
>
> As well, does any one know why the LED manufacturers use a "flexible
> clear colloid" to cover the active LED material? Is this an inexpensive
> way to seal the active material, or something else? I want to mount the
> end of a polished acrylic rod as close as possible to a LED, for light
> transmission. This colloid material is fragil. Several LED OEM's have
> not responded to this question.
> My best regards,
> Mike
> Moab, UT
> ***********
>
>
>> ---
>
>
> Hello. I am not wellknown to led lights and you seems to be experienced
> person. I want to install led lights in my home. What is your suggestion?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393219#393219
>
>
>
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Grounding a Super Cub |
Jeff,
I have tube & fabric aircraft with an IO-360 and the battery in the
back. I have a tab welded on on the engine mount and a tab welded on the
frame near to the battery both used for earth strap connection. What is
the down side of putting very short duration starter current through the
engine mount, and equally through the fuselage frame? Why would the
(very thin) firewall be any better? Can you provide some more details
where you obtained your understanding from? I think you are
mis-informed. Most people I know have saved the weight of a 2nd heavy
gauge wire by using the fuselage frame as the ground return.
Peter
On 29/01/2013 06:25, Jeff Page wrote:
>
> A friend of mine is building a tube and fabric aircraft with an O360.
> The tubes are thin wall 4130. The battery is in the rear.
> My understanding is that it is normally preferable to ground strap the
> engine directly to the firewall, rather than to the engine mount,
> since this avoids putting starter currents through the engine mount.
> If that is correct, then I wonder whether putting starter currents
> through the frame is also a bad idea, and running a heavy wire from
> the battery to the firewall is desirable ?
>
> Jeff Page
> Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
>
>
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Grounding a Super Cub |
Peter,
I looked back into Bob's book trying to find it, but although he says connect the
ground strap from engine to firewall (better than using the P-leads!), it doesn't
say there that that using the engine mount is bad.
Searching this list, I found the "rules" by which Bob Nuckolls would wire his own
airplane:
Rule 9 includes this bit:
Any ground straps provided around the rubber biscuits
of an engine mount will be removed. Engine mounts are
for holding engines on airplanes and not used for any
part of the electrical system.
I have extrapolated that to assume that starter current through the engine mount
is undesirable. My imagination sees a similarity between a 200A arc welder
and 200A of starter current and wonders what happens to the welds as the current
passes through ?
The firewall is just the convenient place for a single point ground.
If there is no problem with using the frame, we would wire it as battery to local
tab on frame at the rear, plus firewall to local tab on frame at firewall,
plus firewall to engine.
If there is a problem, then it would be 2WG from battery to firewall, firewall
to local tab on frame and firewall to engine. This is heavier by the 2AWG cable
from the battery to the firewall, but one less connection.
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393247#393247
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Grounding a Super Cub |
1. Steel has a much higher resistance than copper.
2. One way to make a magnet is to pass a DC current through a ferrous
metal (steel).
FWIW.....
Charlie
On 01/29/2013 04:17 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote:
> <peter@sportingaero.com>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I have tube & fabric aircraft with an IO-360 and the battery in the
> back. I have a tab welded on on the engine mount and a tab welded on
> the frame near to the battery both used for earth strap connection.
> What is the down side of putting very short duration starter current
> through the engine mount, and equally through the fuselage frame? Why
> would the (very thin) firewall be any better? Can you provide some
> more details where you obtained your understanding from? I think you
> are mis-informed. Most people I know have saved the weight of a 2nd
> heavy gauge wire by using the fuselage frame as the ground return.
>
> Peter
>
> On 29/01/2013 06:25, Jeff Page wrote:
>>
>> A friend of mine is building a tube and fabric aircraft with an
>> O360. The tubes are thin wall 4130. The battery is in the rear.
>> My understanding is that it is normally preferable to ground strap
>> the engine directly to the firewall, rather than to the engine mount,
>> since this avoids putting starter currents through the engine mount.
>> If that is correct, then I wonder whether putting starter currents
>> through the frame is also a bad idea, and running a heavy wire from
>> the battery to the firewall is desirable ?
>>
>> Jeff Page
>> Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
>>
>>
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Grounding a Super Cub |
Yes, a magnetized frame would make compass swings pretty difficult.
When Bob discussed using the airframe as ground in the Book, he seemed to be referring
to all metal aircraft, which would be aluminum.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393257#393257
Message 10
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Grounding a Super Cub |
>I have tube & fabric aircraft with an IO-360 and the battery in the
>back. I have a tab welded on on the engine mount and a tab welded on
>the frame near to the battery both used for earth strap connection.
>What is the down side of putting very short duration starter current
>through the engine mount, and equally through the fuselage frame?
They're magnetic materials . . . steel . . .
with higher resistance than copper. While
carrying high currents, the steel conductors generate
strong local magnetic fields which do not go
completely away after the current goes to zero.
Remote battery grounding on aluminum airplanes is
less problematic . . . but many builders still run
starter currents through the engine mount and/or
fire wall sheet . . . for the most part they don't
perceive any problems. Performance degradation is
most likely to present during cold weather cranking.
So MANY things pile on top of each other in cold
weather that one is unlikely to see much difference
fore wired vs. airframe battery ground. But a combination of
design and preventative maintenance efforts can
add up to a significant difference. Those would
include selection of starter, keeping the battery
well maintained, minimizing joints in the cranking
path, and in extreme conditions, warming the engine
and battery, etc.
> Why would the (very thin) firewall be any better?
It's not. I try NEVER to depend on fire wall sheet for anything
other than grounding of light draw accessories like case-ground
regulators, facet fuel pumps, starter contactors, etc.
> Most people I know have saved the weight of a 2nd heavy gauge wire
> by using the fuselage frame as the ground return.
Which is what's been done on thousands of airplanes
for 100+ years . . . but I'm aware of no study
that quantifies performance or maintenance issues
for having done so.
My personal design goals call for a minimum number
of made up joints between battery (-) and crankcase
and avoid using airframe ground for all but the few
outlying appliances depicted in Figure Z-15. The ideal
battery ground is an engine-cranking-sized-wire from
battery(-) to fire wall single-point ground . . . and
a second conductor from single-point ground stud
to the crankcase.
But if one wishes to embrace another philosophy,
it will probably function.
Bob . . .
Message 11
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Grounding a Super Cub |
Bob,
I am going to suggest he go with your recommendations. He is keenly interested
in being able to start in remote locations. What you say makes sense. Thanks
(again) for your very helpful advice.
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393261#393261
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|