AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 02/05/13


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:23 AM - SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure modes (Ralph E. Capen)
     2. 07:45 AM - Re: SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure modes (RV7ASask)
     3. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure modes (Ralph E. Capen)
     4. 10:09 AM - Re: OT: SMT solder bridge (Henry Hallam)
     5. 11:05 AM - Re: OT: SMT solder bridge (Charlie England)
     6. 12:05 PM - audio amp (dj45)
     7. 12:42 PM - Re: audio amp (Eric Page)
     8. 04:52 PM - Re: audio amp (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:23:24 AM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure modes
    Looking to see if anyone has ever experienced a failure of either of these two types of units. This is a backup unit be design so a failure might not get noticed - until you need it. My start-up checklist has me powering on the backup unit first, checking for amps generated and the warning light on...then power up the primary unit - I get more amps and the secondary light goes out... Not looking to bad-mouth anyone.....my back-up alternator did not come on-line during my start-up checklist. No biggie - I was going on a local VFR fun flight close enough to get back to home-plate if necessary. Anyone experienced anything with theirs - how did it present? what was the cause? How did you determine / diagnose? What did you do to repair? My line of troubleshooting thinking has me first checking to make sure the unit turns when the engine turns - then looking at the two ckt breakers and finally testing for current at the field wire on the back of the alternator. Thanks, Ralph Capen


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:45:10 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure modes
    From: "RV7ASask" <rv7alamb@sasktel.net>
    Ralph, I have an SD-20/SB1B-14 as a back-up unit with a Z12 architecture. I had an anomaly early on where, on my after start check, I would have both alternators selected ON. With everything stable at a low load and the main alternator pulling around 8 amps, I would select the main alternator OFF. The Aux would come on line and the amps would increase up to 16 amps. After much sleuthing by this great team on the Aeroelectric List I changed the Aux alternator shunt and replaced the original supplied 40 amp shunt with a 60 amp shunt and now all is well. I still do the same check in the 'After Start' but the amp reading remains the same on both alternators. Regards David Lamb Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393671#393671


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:05:48 AM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure
    modes Interesting... I engage my secondary first to make sure it takes the load and lights the panel lights - then engage the primary - to watch it take the load and extinguish the panel lights. I notice the amps and volts drop on the sacondary - maybe my load is too high when I am testing, or it has been broke since day one. I may add another step to my test process to make sure the secondary re-takes the load after the primary is shut-off. Thanks -----Original Message----- >From: RV7ASask <rv7alamb@sasktel.net> >Sent: Feb 5, 2013 10:43 AM >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: SD-20 Alternator / SB1B-14 regulator failure modes > > >Ralph, > >I have an SD-20/SB1B-14 as a back-up unit with a Z12 architecture. I had an anomaly early on where, on my after start check, I would have both alternators selected ON. With everything stable at a low load and the main alternator pulling around 8 amps, I would select the main alternator OFF. The Aux would come on line and the amps would increase up to 16 amps. > >After much sleuthing by this great team on the Aeroelectric List I changed the Aux alternator shunt and replaced the original supplied 40 amp shunt with a 60 amp shunt and now all is well. > >I still do the same check in the 'After Start' but the amp reading remains the same on both alternators. > >Regards >David Lamb > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393671#393671 > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:09:45 AM PST US
    From: Henry Hallam <henry@pericynthion.org>
    Subject: Re: OT: SMT solder bridge
    The wick usually comes with some flux impregnated in it (at least the better wicks do) but an extra dab doesn't hurt. I usually put the wick on the solder bridge and then heat the whole thing. Sometimes adding a small amount of solder helps wet out the iron and the wick for better heat transfer. Don't be scared of SMT soldering and rework, it takes a little practice to get good but it's much easier than you think. On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 6:05 PM, rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net> wrote: > Do you heat and then drag the wick, or put the wick on the solder and then > heat the whole thing? Put a little flux on the wick? > > Thanks for the help. > > do not archive > > Raymond Julian > Kettle River, MN. > > "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, > and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine > > On 02/04/2013 07:39 PM, Henry Hallam wrote: > > Regular soldering iron and good quality solder braid/wick. Optionally flux. > In a pinch you can do it with just the iron - melt a ball of solder on the > end of the iron and drag it across the pins at the right speed, the surface > tension will pull out the bridge. Flux helps. > > Henry > > On Feb 4, 2013 1:58 PM, "rayj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> wrote: >> >> Greetings, >> >> I was inspecting a new electronic device that wasn't working and found a >> solder bridge between 2 of the pins on an SMT chip. >> >> I'm looking for an easy way to remove it. My plan is to use a hot needle >> to touch it and maybe I can sweep or blow it away. I'm open to suggestions, >> keeping in mind I have no equipment for working on SMT components. >> >> do not archive >> >> Thanks in advance for any suggestions. >> >> -- >> Raymond Julian >> Kettle River, MN. >> >> "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, >> and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine >> >> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:05:26 AM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: OT: SMT solder bridge
    The wick probably isn't necessary. Unless there's *way* too much solder on the two pads, just dragging the (fine point) hot iron between them will usually clear the bridge. It's certainly worth a shot before risking de-soldering both pins with the wick & being forced to re-solder. On 02/05/2013 12:07 PM, Henry Hallam wrote: > > The wick usually comes with some flux impregnated in it (at least the > better wicks do) but an extra dab doesn't hurt. I usually put the > wick on the solder bridge and then heat the whole thing. Sometimes > adding a small amount of solder helps wet out the iron and the wick > for better heat transfer. > > Don't be scared of SMT soldering and rework, it takes a little > practice to get good but it's much easier than you think. > > On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 6:05 PM, rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net> wrote: >> Do you heat and then drag the wick, or put the wick on the solder and then >> heat the whole thing? Put a little flux on the wick? >> >> Thanks for the help. >> >> do not archive >> >> Raymond Julian >> Kettle River, MN. >> >> "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, >> and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine >> >> On 02/04/2013 07:39 PM, Henry Hallam wrote: >> >> Regular soldering iron and good quality solder braid/wick. Optionally flux. >> In a pinch you can do it with just the iron - melt a ball of solder on the >> end of the iron and drag it across the pins at the right speed, the surface >> tension will pull out the bridge. Flux helps. >> >> Henry >> >> On Feb 4, 2013 1:58 PM, "rayj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> wrote: >>> Greetings, >>> >>> I was inspecting a new electronic device that wasn't working and found a >>> solder bridge between 2 of the pins on an SMT chip. >>> >>> I'm looking for an easy way to remove it. My plan is to use a hot needle >>> to touch it and maybe I can sweep or blow it away. I'm open to suggestions, >>> keeping in mind I have no equipment for working on SMT components. >>> >>> do not archive >>> >>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions. >>> >>> -- >>> Raymond Julian >>> Kettle River, MN. >>> >>> "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, >>> and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine >>> >>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> >>


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:05:32 PM PST US
    Subject: audio amp
    From: "dj45" <daniel-stanton1@comcast.net>
    Can someone point me to a simple audio amp that I can use with an MP3 player and plug it into my Microair 760 radio? Thanks -------- Do not archive Dan Stanton N801S CH 801 N226BS CH701 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393683#393683


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:42:17 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: audio amp
    From: Eric Page <edpav8r@yahoo.com>
    I would be surprised if an additional amp were necessary. Do you know if the aux audio input to the Microair is line level or accepts amplified signals? Does the aux input take a 1/8" TRS plug (standard earbud plug) or do you have to add pins to the radio's harness? Have you tried it without an amp between the two? Could you simply plug the MP3 player into an unused microphone jack? Eric do not archive On Feb 5, 2013, at 1:04 PM, "dj45" <daniel-stanton1@comcast.net> wrote: > > Can someone point me to a simple audio amp that I can use with an MP3 player and plug it into my Microair 760 radio? > > Thanks > > -------- > Do not archive > > Dan Stanton > N801S CH 801 > N226BS CH701 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393683#393683 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 04:52:14 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: audio amp
    At 02:04 PM 2/5/2013, you wrote: > >Can someone point me to a simple audio amp that I can use with an >MP3 player and plug it into my Microair 760 radio? The MA760 doesn't have auxiliary audio inputs. You need an audio isolation (mixer) amplifier to combine MP3 player outputs with audio from the MZ760. Here's one option which you can build using instructions found here http://tinyurl.com/crzw4yd using a board that we can provide. If you're looking for an assembled unit, here's one option. http://tinyurl.com/bv5pf6e Bob . . .




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