Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:43 AM - Re: Vacuum vise (rayj)
2. 05:54 AM - Re: Vacuum vise (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: vhf transponder interference (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 10:41 AM - Re: Vacuum vise (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
5. 02:39 PM - Re: Vacuum vise (Lynn Cole)
6. 04:55 PM - TED 9-30-10 Tray connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
If I'm going to plunk a V-8 or a tranny on it, I prefer a 12-16 ga.
steel top. The oil and grease keep it from rusting. :>).
I'm sitting at a desk made of a door on a couple of filing cabinets as I
type. "Damaged" doors can be gotten at the local big box hardware stores
for cheap. I have a stack out back I throw on saw horses when I need
extra bench space. Good for garage sales, too.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 03/20/2013 09:56 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 12:07 PM 3/20/2013, you wrote:
>> Bob,
>>
>> Great idea! Very nice to be able to have a vise front and center when
>> you need it and get it out of the way when you don't.
>>
>> Re workbenches. I've made a couple of benches using a plain-front
>> solid core interior door as the top.\
>
> Hmmm . . . I've used doors for drafting tables.
> That was back in the days when the Bruning broken-arm
> drafting machine was king. Bought one used at
> Cessna and built a drafting table from a door.
>
> Used it a lot of years until the first time I
> loaded AutoCAD 1.17 onto a PC-XT with a monster
> 20 Meg hard drive. The Bruning, table and all
> those tools went into the next garage sale! That
> was 30 years ago!
>
>> Unfortunately, the nicely finished surface doesn't hold up very well
>> to garage bench use. I'll try your idea and screw down a sheet of
>> Masonite next time my bench needs a refinish. Thanks for the tip.
>
> Yeah, beat-n-bash benches need some mass. The
> last one I built was when we were operating the
> Benton Airport (1K1). I used a two-layer
> 3/4" MDF top covered with Masonite. You can
> plunk a V8 block down on it . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
At 02:42 AM 3/21/2013, you wrote:
>
>If I'm going to plunk a V-8 or a tranny on it, I prefer a 12-16 ga.
>steel top. The oil and grease keep it from rusting. :>).
Sure . . . I was alluding to the strength not the
utility.
>I'm sitting at a desk made of a door on a couple of filing cabinets
>as I type. "Damaged" doors can be gotten at the local big box
>hardware stores for cheap. I have a stack out back I throw on saw
>horses when I need extra bench space. Good for garage sales, too.
Good idea . . . I could use one of those
myself. I'll check on availability next trip
to Wichita.
Bob . . .
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: vhf transponder interference |
At 10:34 AM 3/20/2013, you wrote:
>
>what is the importance of the Impedance bushing inside this
>connector TED 9-30-10 ?
>
>I've been told to use use it only with a certain type of cable ...
>
>My old one had none, maybe one of the many reasons I have interference...
>
>JP
I wrote to TED Mfg to ask for their published instructions
on assembly of this connector. An excerpt from their reply
is shown below:
Emacs!
I'll publish the entire document in the Manufacturer's data
folder of aeroelectric.com later today.
The bushing you asked about is used for smaller coaxes.
The .2" diameter coaxes like 58, 400, 142, etc do not
require it.
Bob . . .
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi Group
Speaking about using doors for tables, I have a big piece of maple,
39" x 72" that I have attached to the back wall of my garage by
3 hinges. When in the down position it is supported by two cables that
makes for a fine workbench. Plenty strong and rigid. Then when not needed
it closes upward and I have a chain pull side gate style shoot bolt
(spring loaded) that hits the striker that is mounted on the bottom of a
permanent shelf (at the correct height). Using a door covered with any
choice of covering you wish could easily be made into a folding
table.
Off topic a bit, but on the main level of my home near my computer I have
a copier that gets a pretty good workout. On complicated jobs there never
seems to be enough table area. Right above the copier hangs a picture,
actually pivots a picture. I have two small hinges on the bottom and it
is held in the up position with Velcro. Pull it down and two thin cables
hold it for a nice sized table right where you can easily get to it.
Trick is to tie a rubber band between the cables so when you close some
of the cable is not sticking out.
One more thought, my friend made a rather long and plenty rugged work
table for his shop. He made it out of 2x4s. What he did was stood them so
they were 4" tall and drilled holes for 1/2" threaded rods. He
glued them together and used the threaded rods to pull things together.
He also used the threaded rods to mount to the wall. He used a floor
sander to sand things flat and finished. Pretty nice and very inexpensive
(compared to Maple). He said he was going to put Oak on top if the
surface proved to get too beat up. It lasted a long time, I think he
refinished it once he never put the Oak on top.
Ron Parigoris
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
About 30 years ago I made a workbench similar to the one Ron Parigoris
described in his third paragraph. I laid 2x4s on edge and used glue and
1/2-inch threaded rod as he did. The workbench is 3 ft by 7 ft. I used
a hand plane to make the surface flat. On one end I put a wood-worker's
vise. On the other end I put a drill press with an x-y table so I can
do light milling. In the center I made an opening in which I can put a
Skill saw, a reciprocating saw, or a router. Each tool has its own
board that fits into the opening.
Soon after building it, it was obvious that the workbench was warping,
so I used some 2x4s placed crosswise to the bench top 2x4s to keep the
top flat. Even so there was more warpage that opened up the cracks
between the top 2x4s. Those cracks were filled with a mixture of epoxy
and sawdust. All in all, the workbench has proved to be a very useful
tool over the years.
-----
Lynn Cole
LynnCole@foxvalley.net
On Mar 21, 2013, at 12:39 PM, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
> Hi Group
>
> Speaking about using doors for tables, I have a big piece of maple,
39" x 72" that I have attached to the back wall of my garage by 3
hinges. When in the down position it is supported by two cables that
makes for a fine workbench. Plenty strong and rigid. Then when not
needed it closes upward and I have a chain pull side gate style shoot
bolt (spring loaded) that hits the striker that is mounted on the bottom
of a permanent shelf (at the correct height). Using a door covered with
any choice of covering you wish could easily be made into a folding
table.
>
> Off topic a bit, but on the main level of my home near my computer I
have a copier that gets a pretty good workout. On complicated jobs there
never seems to be enough table area. Right above the copier hangs a
picture, actually pivots a picture. I have two small hinges on the
bottom and it is held in the up position with Velcro. Pull it down and
two thin cables hold it for a nice sized table right where you can
easily get to it. Trick is to tie a rubber band between the cables so
when you close some of the cable is not sticking out.
>
> One more thought, my friend made a rather long and plenty rugged work
table for his shop. He made it out of 2x4s. What he did was stood them
so they were 4" tall and drilled holes for 1/2" threaded rods. He glued
them together and used the threaded rods to pull things together. He
also used the threaded rods to mount to the wall. He used a floor sander
to sand things flat and finished. Pretty nice and very inexpensive
(compared to Maple). He said he was going to put Oak on top if the
surface proved to get too beat up. It lasted a long time, I think he
refinished it once he never put the Oak on top.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | TED 9-30-10 Tray connector |
The full up installation instructions have
been posted at:
http://tinyurl.com/cc4mpsx
Bob . . .
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|