Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:52 AM - Re: Ebus Diode (Eric M. Jones)
     2. 06:15 AM - Re: LED heatsink material? (Eric M. Jones)
     3. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Ebus Diode (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 11:32 AM - Re: Re: Ebus Diode (Roger & Jean)
     5. 12:29 PM - Re: LED strip lighting for panels (Ed Holyoke)
     6. 01:15 PM - Re: LED strip lighting for panels (wynaire@citlink.net)
     7. 02:28 PM - Re: LED strip lighting for panels (Holger Selover-Stephan)
     8. 02:28 PM - Re: LED strip lighting for panels (Andy Crabtree)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I've been selling these for a decade. My newest version can be used as two parallel,
      a Y-configuration or just a big diode. Heatsink included. See attached.
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397835#397835
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/power_deuce_schottky_manual_200.pdf
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: LED heatsink material? | 
      
      
      
      > Seems like quite a lot of aluminium, and plenty of surface area, but it would
      nice to find a way of evaluating its effectiveness... other than waiting for
      the smell of burning semiconductor... 
      
      
      Tape this into your toolbox. These are for surfaces touched with a non-calloused
      finger, not ambients.
      
      Cool: 100 degC
      
      You can estimate between these numbers quite well.
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397842#397842
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: RE: Ebus Diode | 
      
      
      At 08:25 PM 4/3/2013, you wrote:
      ><dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
      >
      >If you want true redundancy then just use two rectifiers in parallel.
      
         Actually, if you want redundancy for a failed
         diode, you would want to wire them in series.
      
         Diodes generally fail shorted. So having a good
         diode in parallel would a bad one would not
         mitigate the failure. But of course, diodes in
         series doubles the voltage drop and that's not
         high on our list of design goals.
      
         As long as they're adequately heat-sinked,
         the diode will outlast the airplane. If
         not heat adequately sinked, life expectancy
         is short.
      
         The first 'crowbar' ov protection system to
         go into a TC aircraft can be found on the AA-1
         Yankee. Alternator field was supplied through
         a 3 or 5 amp glass cartridge fuse. I don't
         recall which right now. Downstream of the fuse
         they wired a 15 volt, 1-watt, glass zener to
         ground.
      
         In an ov condition, the zener was driven into
         destructive conduction, it's junction melted
         and shorted the field supply downstream of the
         fuse.  Crude but it did work . . . with limitations.
      
         I ran some tests on this configuration
         at Electro-Mech after an OEM engineer asked me
         about it . . . I think it was a guy at Mooney.
      
         Sure 'nuf. Fault the regulator, bus votlage jumps,
         zener discolors and turns black, fuse pops, event
         over. MUCH slower than legacy OV protection systems
         that operate in tens of milliseconds . . . but
         certainly better than no OV protection.
      
         I heard of variations on the theme that proved
         unsatisfactory . . . like replacing the fast-fuse
         with a slow-blow. Or replacing the zener with
         its plastic cousin. Plastic zeners and diodes
         like to blow apart when fused.
      
         There was an alternator supplier at OSH one year
         who advertised "built in OV protection".
         Some guy came by the B&C booth to tell me about
         it . . . he was skeptical. I walked over to see
         what was being offered. Without introducing myself
         I asked the vendor to tell me all about it. It
         pointed to a plastic, 1-w zener wired across the
         alternator's B-terminal to ground. I took some
         literature and thanked him for the info.
      
         Some time later, somebody on the Compuserve
         AVSIG forum was asking about this same product.
         He said his alternator went bad and his OV
         protection 'disappeared' without having done
         it's job. Upon further inquiry, he said the
         little wires were still there . . . just the
         black plastic part was gone.
      
         This was an internally regulated alternator
         and could not be easily fitted with OV protection.
         Certainly the little glob of plastic was not
         up to the task.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      > I've been selling these for a decade. My newest version can be used as two 
      > parallel, a Y-configuration or just a big diode. Heatsink included. See 
      > attached.
      >
      > --------
      > Eric M. Jones
      
      
      Eric,
      
      In looking at your attached diagram, it is my assumption that you are using 
      the diodes to supply power to critical for flight devices.  My thought is 
      that you would be much better off using 2 fuel pumps and 2 ECU's each 
      running through their own switches to separate batteries and eliminate the 
      diodes.  This is a little more costly but my thinking is that it will 
      increase your safety factor by an order of magnitude.  Am I wrong on this 
      approach?
      
      Roger 
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: LED strip lighting for panels | 
      
      Bob,
      
      Is the DIM5-14 the same item as in your drawing and can be modified for 
      dimming the led strip lights by replacing resistors as you suggest?
      
      Ed Holyoke
      
      On 4/2/2013 12:12 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      > If your airplane has a glare shield, you can
      > consider the used of LED strip lights similar
      > to these.
      >
      > http://tinyurl.com/c3wozbj
      >
      > These strips are assembled from an array
      > of LED trios in series fitted with the appropriate
      > series resistor to provide max illumination with
      > 12vdc applied. Each trio occupies about 2" of
      > length.
      >
      > Three white lights in series do not begin to
      > output until applied voltage rises to 7.5 volts
      > or so.  At 12 volts, each group of 3 lamps
      > (about 2" in length) draws about 25 milliamps.
      >
      > Assume you need 36" of strip to stretch
      > across the glare shield (18 trios). You'll
      > need a dimmer control capable of carrying
      > 18 x .025 or 0.45 amps. This relatively
      > low current draw makes the noise-free, linear
      > regulators more attractive. Referring to this
      > drawing
      >
      > http://tinyurl.com/ccrpzfa
      >
      > You see the architecture for a dimmer set up for
      > incandescent lamps. I.e. 4.5 volts minimum. For service
      > with these strips, the minimum needs to be raised to
      > 7.5 volts. Further, we want to fix the adjustment
      > range at 7.5 - 12v or a delta-V of 3.5 volts.
      >
      > Since our stock "pot" is 2.5K, then to get 3.5
      > volts dropped across the pot at max resistance,
      > we need a divider current of 3.5/2500 or 1.4 milliamps.
      >
      > The voltage across the upper resistor is fixed at
      > 1.25 volts by internal characteristics of the
      > 317 regulator. 1.25V/0.0014A = 892 (910 ohms
      > is close enough and a standard 5% value).
      >
      > Okay, with the pot at min resistance, we need
      > 7.5 volts total output. (7.5 - 1.25)/0.0014
      > equals 4464 ohms (4700 is also a standard
      > value and sufficiently close).
      >
      > So, if you'd care to build your own dimmer the
      > 390 ohm resistor is replaced with a 910 ohm
      > resistor; the 910 ohm resistor is replaced with
      > a 4700 ohm resistor. The TO220 plastic package
      > version of the LM317 on a modicum of heatsink
      > would be 'fat' enough and entirely free of noise.
      >
      > That 15-foot chunk of strip lighting for $20 is
      > delivered toyour door at that price and is probably
      > enough lighting to do 5 airplanes. I've copied B&C
      > on this posting to see if they'd be interested in
      > offering an LED strip light version of their DIM5-14
      > product.
      >
      > http://tinyurl.com/dylkufj
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      > *
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: LED strip lighting for panels | 
      
      FWIW: There are Ebay sites {China} now offering inexpensive LED dimmers, fo
      r stirp lighting.-One is one it's way here. If it smokes, I-will post t
      he peticulars. As always, thanks for your advice.-=0AMike W.=0APS: Now lo
      oking for an "inexpensive" CS prop governor for a Lyc IO-360 AV. Anyone bui
      lding one in his -shop? ;))=0A***********=0A=0AFrom: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop
      @pacbell.net>=0A>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Thursday, Ap
      ril 4, 2013 1:29 PM=0A>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LED strip lighting f
      or panels=0A>=0A>=0A>Bob,=0A>=0A>Is the DIM5-14 the same item as in your dr
      awing and can be modified for dimming the led strip lights by replacing res
      istors as you suggest?=0A>=0A>Ed Holyoke=0A>=0A>On 4/2/2013 12:12 PM, Rober
      t L. Nuckolls, III wrote: =0A>If your airplane has a glare shield, you can
      =0A>>consider the used of LED strip lights similar=0A>>to these.=0A>>=0A>>h
      ttp://tinyurl.com/c3wozbj=0A>>=0A>>These strips are assembled from an array
      =0A>>of LED trios in series fitted with the appropriate=0A>>series resistor
       to provide max illumination with=0A>>12vdc applied. Each trio occupies abo
      ut 2" of=0A>>length.=0A>>=0A>>Three white lights in series do not begin to
      =0A>>output until applied voltage rises to 7.5 volts=0A>>or so.- At 12 vo
      lts, each group of 3 lamps=0A>>(about 2" in length) draws about 25 milliamp
      s.=0A>>=0A>>Assume you need 36" of strip to stretch=0A>>across the glare sh
      ield (18 trios). You'll=0A>>need a dimmer control capable of carrying=0A>>1
      8 x .025 or 0.45 amps. This relatively=0A>>low current draw makes the noise
      -free, linear=0A>>regulators more attractive. Referring to this=0A>>drawing
      =0A>>=0A>>http://tinyurl.com/ccrpzfa=0A>>=0A>>You see the architecture for 
      a dimmer set up for=0A>>incandescent lamps. I.e. 4.5 volts minimum. For ser
      vice=0A>>with these strips, the minimum needs to be raised to=0A>>7.5 volts
      . Further, we want to fix the adjustment=0A>>range at 7.5 - 12v or a delta-
      V of 3.5 volts.=0A>>=0A>>Since our stock "pot" is 2.5K, then to get 3.5=0A>
      >volts dropped across the pot at max resistance,=0A>>we need a divider curr
      ent of 3.5/2500 or 1.4 milliamps.=0A>>=0A>>The voltage across the upper res
      istor is fixed at=0A>>1.25 volts by internal characteristics of the=0A>>317
       regulator. 1.25V/0.0014A = 892 (910 ohms=0A>>is close enough and a stand
      ard 5% value).=0A>>=0A>>Okay, with the pot at min resistance, we need=0A>>7
      .5 volts total output. (7.5 - 1.25)/0.0014=0A>>equals 4464 ohms (4700 is al
      so a standard=0A>>value and sufficiently close).=0A>>=0A>>So, if you'd care
       to build your own dimmer the=0A>>390 ohm resistor is replaced with a 910 o
      hm=0A>>resistor; the 910 ohm resistor is replaced with=0A>>a 4700 ohm resis
      tor. The TO220 plastic package=0A>>version of the LM317 on a modicum of hea
      tsink=0A>>would be 'fat' enough and entirely free of noise.=0A>>=0A>>That 1
      5-foot chunk of strip lighting for $20 is=0A>>delivered toyour door at that
       price and is probably=0A>>enough lighting to do 5 airplanes. I've copied B
      &C=0A>>on this posting to see if they'd be interested in=0A>>offering an LE
      D strip light version of their DIM5-14=0A>>product.=0A>>=0A>>http://tinyurl
      ========= =0A>=0A>
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: LED strip lighting for panels | 
      
      I have two of those $6 dimmers on order also. Others have already 
      reported success using them in the RV forum. 
      
      Holger
      
      On Apr 4, 2013, at 10:14 PM, wynaire@citlink.net wrote:
      
      > FWIW: There are Ebay sites {China} now offering inexpensive LED 
      dimmers, for stirp lighting. One is one it's way here. If it smokes, I 
      will post the peticulars. As always, thanks for your advice. 
      > Mike W.
      > PS: Now looking for an "inexpensive" CS prop governor for a Lyc IO-360 
      AV. Anyone building one in his  shop? ;))
      > ***********
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: LED strip lighting for panels | 
      
      This is what was recommended by other builders, Kick KR6 $15-$20 on ebay. I
       haven't "fired" it up yet....=0Ahttp://www.kicklighting.com/Kick-Lighting-
      KR6.pdf=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "wynaire@citlink.n
      et" <wynaire@citlink.net>=0ATo: "aeroelectric-list@matronics.com" <aeroelec
      tric-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 3:14 PM=0ASubject
      : Re: AeroElectric-List: LED strip lighting for panels=0A=0A=0AFWIW: There 
      are Ebay sites {China} now offering inexpensive LED dimmers, for stirp ligh
      ting.-One is one it's way here. If it smokes, I-will post the peticular
      s. As always, thanks for your advice.-=0AMike W.=0APS: Now looking for an
       "inexpensive" CS prop governor for a Lyc IO-360 AV. Anyone building one in
       his -shop? ;))=0A***********=0A=0A=0A=0A>_______________________________
      _=0A>From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>=0A>To: aeroelectric-list@matro
      nics.com =0A>Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 1:29 PM=0A>Subject: Re: AeroElec
      tric-List: LED strip lighting for panels=0A>=0A>=0A>Bob,=0A>=0A>Is the DIM5
      -14 the same item as in your drawing and can be modified for dimming the le
      d strip lights by replacing resistors as you suggest?=0A>=0A>Ed Holyoke=0A>
      =0A>On 4/2/2013 12:12 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: =0A>If your airpla
      ne has a glare shield, you can=0A>>consider the used of LED strip lights si
      milar=0A>>to these.=0A>>=0A>>http://tinyurl.com/c3wozbj=0A>>=0A>>These stri
      ps are assembled from an array=0A>>of LED trios in series fitted with the a
      ppropriate=0A>>series resistor to provide max illumination with=0A>>12vdc a
      pplied. Each trio occupies about 2" of=0A>>length.=0A>>=0A>>Three white lig
      hts in series do not begin to=0A>>output until applied voltage rises to 7.5
       volts=0A>>or so.- At 12 volts, each group of 3 lamps=0A>>(about 2" in le
      ngth) draws about 25 milliamps.=0A>>=0A>>Assume you need 36" of strip to st
      retch=0A>>across the glare shield (18 trios). You'll=0A>>need a dimmer cont
      rol capable of carrying=0A>>18 x .025 or 0.45 amps. This relatively=0A>>low
       current draw makes the noise-free, linear=0A>>regulators more attractive. 
      Referring to this=0A>>drawing=0A>>=0A>>http://tinyurl.com/ccrpzfa=0A>>=0A>>
      You see the architecture for a dimmer set up for=0A>>incandescent lamps. I.
      e. 4.5 volts minimum. For service=0A>>with these strips, the minimum needs 
      to be raised to=0A>>7.5 volts. Further, we want to fix the adjustment=0A>>r
      ange at 7.5 - 12v or a delta-V of 3.5 volts.=0A>>=0A>>Since our stock "pot"
       is 2.5K, then to get 3.5=0A>>volts dropped across the pot at max resistanc
      e,=0A>>we need a divider current of 3.5/2500 or 1.4 milliamps.=0A>>=0A>>The
       voltage across the upper resistor is fixed at=0A>>1.25 volts by internal c
      haracteristics of the=0A>>317 regulator. 1.25V/0.0014A = 892 (910 ohms=0A
      >>is close enough and a standard 5% value).=0A>>=0A>>Okay, with the pot at 
      min resistance, we need=0A>>7.5 volts total output. (7.5 - 1.25)/0.0014=0A>
      >equals 4464 ohms (4700 is also a standard=0A>>value and sufficiently close
      ).=0A>>=0A>>So, if you'd care to build your own dimmer the=0A>>390 ohm resi
      stor is replaced with a 910 ohm=0A>>resistor; the 910 ohm resistor is repla
      ced with=0A>>a 4700 ohm resistor. The TO220 plastic package=0A>>version of 
      the LM317 on a modicum of heatsink=0A>>would be 'fat' enough and entirely f
      ree of noise.=0A>>=0A>>That 15-foot chunk of strip lighting for $20 is=0A>>
      delivered toyour door at that price and is probably=0A>>enough lighting to 
      do 5 airplanes. I've copied B&C=0A>>on this posting to see if they'd be int
      erested in=0A>>offering an LED strip light version of their DIM5-14=0A>>pro
      duct.=0A>>=0A>>http://tinyurl.com/dylkufj=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>- Bob . . . =0A>
      ===================== 
      
 
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