AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 04/05/13


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:54 AM - Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors (Owen Baker)
     2. 05:09 AM - Re: Re: LED heatsink material? (James Kilford)
     3. 06:01 AM - Re: Re: LED heatsink material? (Henador Titzoff)
     4. 06:08 AM - Re: LED heatsink material? (Eric M. Jones)
     5. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: LED heatsink material? (James Kilford)
     6. 09:49 AM - Re: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors (Y! edpav8r)
     7. 01:42 PM - Diagnostic Help Please: Audio is Weak and Scratchy (Jared Yates)
     8. 05:47 PM - Re: Diagnostic Help Please: Audio is Weak and Scratchy (Charlie England)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:54:21 AM PST US
    From: "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors
    4/5/2013 Hello Again Bob Nuckolls, I am still hoping for some response from you to my posting copied below. Thanks, =98OC=99 Baker === 4/1/2013 Hello Bob Nuckolls, It has been suggested that I use these Dolphin DC-100- P or -S insulation piercing type electrical wire connectors for low amperage wire connection usage, such as a Ray Allen trim servo, in my experimental amateur built airplane: http://dolphincomponents.com/catalogs/Section%20A%20-%20Super%20B%20stand ard-3207.pdf What do you think? Thank you. Owen C. Baker PS: This is not intended as an April Fools Day joke.


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:09:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: LED heatsink material?
    From: James Kilford <james@etravel.org>
    Hi Eric, I'm missing something I think... Is there some more to be sent? Many thanks, James On 4 April 2013 14:15, Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> wrote: > > >> Seems like quite a lot of aluminium, and plenty of surface area, but it would nice to find a way of evaluating its effectiveness... other than waiting for the smell of burning semiconductor... > > > Tape this into your toolbox. These are for surfaces touched with a non-calloused finger, not ambients. > > Cool: 100 degC > > You can estimate between these numbers quite well. > > -------- > Eric M. Jones > www.PerihelionDesign.com > 113 Brentwood Drive > Southbridge, MA 01550 > (508) 764-2072 > emjones(at)charter.net > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397842#397842 > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:01:58 AM PST US
    From: Henador Titzoff <henador_titzoff@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: LED heatsink material?
    What Eric Jonez is saying, James, is to use your calibrated finger to deter mine if the heat sink is working. If you can touch the component without bu rning your finger, it's most likely okay. This must be done during a real t est where the Essential Bus is loaded to its max. Wait for the current to h eat the junction and stabilize the temp, meaning that it's reached a maximu m temperature because heat is flowing from it to ambient air through severa l interfaces such as junction to leads and case, case to heat sink, and hea t sink to air.=0A=0AYou could instrument the diode case to get a more accur ate reading, but a calibrated finger is almost good enough.- If it burns the hell out of you, then maybe you need a bigger heat sink.=0A=0A-=0AHen ador Titzoff=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: James Kilfor d <james@etravel.org>=0ATo: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Friday , April 5, 2013 8:09 AM=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED heatsink es@etravel.org>=0A=0AHi Eric,=0A=0AI'm missing something I think...- Is t here some more to be sent?=0A=0AMany thanks,=0A=0AJames=0A=0A=0AOn 4 April 2013 14:15, Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> wrote:=0A> --> AeroElectric -List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>=0A>=0A>=0A>> Seems like quite a lot of aluminium, and plenty of surface area, but it wo uld nice to find a way of evaluating its effectiveness... other than waitin g for the smell of burning semiconductor...=0A>=0A>=0A> Tape this into your toolbox. These are for surfaces touched with a non-calloused finger, not a mbients.=0A>=0A> Cool: 100 degC=0A>=0A> You can estimate between these numb ers quite well.=0A>=0A> --------=0A> Eric M. Jones=0A> www.PerihelionDesign .com=0A> 113 Brentwood Drive=0A> Southbridge, MA 01550=0A> (508) 764-2072 =0A> emjones(at)charter.net=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Read this topic online here :=0A>=0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397842#397842=0A> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List ======


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:08:15 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: LED heatsink material?
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    > Tape this into your toolbox. These are for surfaces touched with a non-calloused finger, not ambients. > > Cool: 100 degC > > You can estimate between these numbers quite well. There was some sort of error in this posting which involved the "more than" and "less than" symbols. I tried to delete it but it got through anyway. Here it is again (without the symbols): Tape this into your toolbox. These are for metal surfaces touched with a non-calloused finger, not ambients. Cool: 30 degC Warm: 40 degC Uncomfortably Hot: 50 degC As hot as you can touch: 60 degC Immediately painful: 70 degC Will blister skin: 100 degC You can estimate between these numbers quite well. Matt: If you can delete the previous post I'd appreciate it. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397893#397893


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:19:22 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: LED heatsink material?
    From: James Kilford <james@etravel.org>
    Wow! That's another amazing bit of information. Thanks Eric! I'm guessing that HTML formatting hid the middle bit of content with the less than and greater than signs. Did it originally say: "Cool less than 30C" and "Will blister skin greater than 100C"? Thanks again. James On 5 April 2013 14:07, Eric M. Jones <emjones@charter.net> wrote: > > >> Tape this into your toolbox. These are for surfaces touched with a non-calloused finger, not ambients. >> >> Cool: 100 degC >> >> You can estimate between these numbers quite well. > > > There was some sort of error in this posting which involved the "more than" and "less than" symbols. I tried to delete it but it got through anyway. Here it is again (without the symbols): > > Tape this into your toolbox. These are for metal surfaces touched with a non-calloused finger, not ambients. > > Cool: 30 degC > Warm: 40 degC > Uncomfortably Hot: 50 degC > As hot as you can touch: 60 degC > Immediately painful: 70 degC > Will blister skin: 100 degC > > You can estimate between these numbers quite well. > > Matt: If you can delete the previous post I'd appreciate it. > > -------- > Eric M. Jones > www.PerihelionDesign.com > 113 Brentwood Drive > Southbridge, MA 01550 > (508) 764-2072 > emjones(at)charter.net > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397893#397893 > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:49:58 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors
    From: Y! edpav8r <edpav8r@yahoo.com>
    Owen, As someone else stated, the Dolphin DC-100 connectors are intended for use i n telephone and alarm system wiring. They are suitable for use only with sm all diameter solid wire, and are totally unsuitable for aircraft wiring. Al so, they're smaller than they appear in the manufacturer's photos; I'd be su rprised if you could get two wires of more than 22-gauge into them. I used the exact connectors you're looking at when I installed the alarm sys tem in my home. I used about 80-90 of the things, and had to remove and rea pply about half a dozen because they didn't make a connection on the first t ry. Not the kind of reliability we need in aircraft wiring (and very annoyi ng when working in an attic, in Phoenix, in June!). I would stick with M22759/16 wire in a gauge appropriate for the load being s erved, stripped with a quality stripper like the Ideal Stripmaster, and with terminations made using PIDG crimp connectors and a quality full-cycle ratc heting crimper. That's what's been proven to work. Cheers, Eric On Apr 5, 2013, at 4:52 AM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > > Hello Again Bob Nuckolls, I am still hoping for some response from you to m y posting copied below. > > Thanks, > > =98OC=99 Baker > > ========================= === > > 4/1/2013 > > Hello Bob Nuckolls, It has been suggested that I use these Dolphin DC-100- P or -S insulation piercing type electrical wire connectors for low amperage wire connection usage, such as a Ray Allen trim servo, in my experimental a mateur built airplane: > > http://dolphincomponents.com/catalogs/Section%20A%20-%20Super%20B%20standa rd-3207.pdf > > What do you think? Thank you. > > Owen C. Baker > > PS: This is not intended as an April Fools Day joke.


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:42:12 PM PST US
    Subject: Diagnostic Help Please: Audio is Weak and Scratchy
    From: Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com>
    I've been testing my audio system and have encountered poor performance. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to check? Here is the problem: All audio through the headsets is too quiet, and pretty scratchy. This applies to radio reception, intercom audio, Dynon voice out, and music input. With the intercom volume, headset volume, and individual device volume all the way up, the total volume is about where I would want to have it with 25% volume selected instead. The issue seems to afflict each of the various inputs to a similar degree. Here is the setup: New construction, wired by me (a non-professional, so anything is possible) The airframe is a steel tube 4-place fuselage with the mic and audio headset jacks isolated from ground, as verified by voltmeter continuity checks. I used shielded cables to connect the intercom and the mic and stereo phone jacks, with the shields connected at intercom end to each other and not connected to anything at the jacks. I have a self-assembled AEC 9009 Audio Iso Amp handling VHF nav audio on one channel, dynon warnings on one channel, left music in on one channel, and right music in on one channel, with the 9009's output going into the intercom aux input The intercom is a Flightcom 403, with the pilot wires going to the left front seat, copilot wires to the right front seat, and passenger jacks to the back two seats. The GNS430 is the only radio, with com audio routed directly to the intercom per the intercom directions. I'm testing with two known-good David Clark headsets (one stereo, one mono) and one brand new Lightspeed headset, all with freshly buffed, shiny connectors. I'm using battery power only, since the engine is not installed presently. I've tried the battery by itself and the battery with the charger connected. The voltage range is about 13v to 14v for those two cases, but I can't see that changing from one to the other makes any difference in the audio system issues. Here is what I have tried so far with no improvements: First, I unplugged aec9009. I lost the channels that run through it, but the remaining intercom and VHF com audio were still the same. Then I swapped intercom for the bypass plug that I built per the intercom manual. this plug is designed to connect the pilot seat jacks directly to the radio, so that the airplane can still function as a single-place if the intercom is removed entirely. As with the 9009, I lose intercom function in this configuration (as I should), but the vhf com audio is still weak and scratchy. I tried changing the Headsets around in various combinations to various seats with no appreciable change. I changed out the volume resistors in the AEC9009 to increase the volume of those channels, and the volume did go up on the channel in question, but the quality really suffered. I'm not really sure what to try next. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to check?


    Message 8


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    Time: 05:47:24 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Diagnostic Help Please: Audio is Weak and Scratchy
    On 04/05/2013 03:40 PM, Jared Yates wrote: > > I've been testing my audio system and have encountered poor > performance. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to check? > Here is the problem: > > All audio through the headsets is too quiet, and pretty scratchy. This > applies to radio reception, intercom audio, Dynon voice out, and music > input. With the intercom volume, headset volume, and individual device > volume all the way up, the total volume is about where I would want to > have it with 25% volume selected instead. The issue seems to afflict > each of the various inputs to a similar degree. > > Here is the setup: > New construction, wired by me (a non-professional, so anything is possible) > The airframe is a steel tube 4-place fuselage with the mic and audio > headset jacks isolated from ground, as verified by voltmeter > continuity checks. > I used shielded cables to connect the intercom and the mic and stereo > phone jacks, with the shields connected at intercom end to each other > and not connected to anything at the jacks. > I have a self-assembled AEC 9009 Audio Iso Amp handling VHF nav audio > on one channel, dynon warnings on one channel, left music in on one > channel, and right music in on one channel, with the 9009's output > going into the intercom aux input > The intercom is a Flightcom 403, with the pilot wires going to the > left front seat, copilot wires to the right front seat, and passenger > jacks to the back two seats. > The GNS430 is the only radio, with com audio routed directly to the > intercom per the intercom directions. > I'm testing with two known-good David Clark headsets (one stereo, one > mono) and one brand new Lightspeed headset, all with freshly buffed, > shiny connectors. > I'm using battery power only, since the engine is not installed > presently. I've tried the battery by itself and the battery with the > charger connected. The voltage range is about 13v to 14v for those > two cases, but I can't see that changing from one to the other makes > any difference in the audio system issues. > > Here is what I have tried so far with no improvements: > First, I unplugged aec9009. I lost the channels that run through it, > but the remaining intercom and VHF com audio were still the same. > Then I swapped intercom for the bypass plug that I built per the > intercom manual. this plug is designed to connect the pilot seat > jacks directly to the radio, so that the airplane can still function > as a single-place if the intercom is removed entirely. As with the > 9009, I lose intercom function in this configuration (as I should), > but the vhf com audio is still weak and scratchy. > I tried changing the Headsets around in various combinations to > various seats with no appreciable change. > I changed out the volume resistors in the AEC9009 to increase the > volume of those channels, and the volume did go up on the channel in > question, but the quality really suffered. > I'm not really sure what to try next. Does anyone have any > suggestions for what to check? The fuzzy part sounds like some segment in the audio chain is being overdriven by a source, or is being asked to supply more than it's capable of giving. The low level could be too much of a load on the output (load impedance too low). A partial short to ground (from an audio 'hi' to an audio 'Lo', or to the chassis) is the 1st thing that comes to mind. Having both fuzzy & low volume from multiple sources *might* mean that you have two or more outputs trying to feed into each other, with no isolation resistors between them. (This will make all affected outputs 'think' that they are effectively shorted to ground because each is trying to drive a very low impedance load.) So to proceed, 'Divide & conquer.' It's extremely unlikely that you have the same problem with every source, so job one is eliminating the known-good items. I'd get a set of clip leads, and extra phone jack, & start testing each source by itself, without it connected to any other component. Isolate the output line (typically 'audio hi' on the hookup diagram) from the rest of the plane. Hook a clip lead from that wire to the tip terminal of your spare jack. Hook another clip lead from the ground ('audio Lo') to the shield (ground) terminal of the jack. Plug in a known-good headset & listen to that source. Sound ok? If not troubleshoot settings, ground paths, etc. If good, move to the next source & repeat. Annddd repeat, until you've checked all or until you find a bad component. If all is good, hook one (and only one) source to the iso amp & move your test jack to the iso amp's output (with it hooked to nothing else). If bad, there's your problem. All good? that means the iso amp is almost certainly good, too. Hook the iso amp to the intercom's input again (with nothing else hooked to the input). Move the test jack to the intercom's output (with nothing else hooked up to the output lead). Listen again. If bad, check intercom settings (especially if there is an internal gain setting or aux input volume control in the intercom). All good? Without hooking up the 430, add one component to the iso amp & check for level/quality at the intercom output. (We've actually skipped a few steps by doing this, but if one iso input is good, odds are high that all will be good.) All sources (except 430) good? Use your test jack to check the 430, with its output connected to nothing but the test jack. Bad? There's your problem. Good? Proceed. Now look at how the 430 ties to the intercom. In your message, you say that the iso amp is hooked direct to the intercom. Is this a separate input on the intercom? It probably is, but if it's tied to the same input with the iso amp, that might well be your problem. Different input? Move your test jack to the intercom output & listen to the 430 through the intercom. Bad? Re-check wiring & intercom settings, then check the intercom itself, if possible. Still good? Re-check your headphone wiring harness in the plane. Having said all that, I'll say this: I've worked on a couple of 430 installations for friends, & they can be real snakes to troubleshoot. The most common issue is ground pins on the d-Sub connectors. There are quite a few, & if you miss one, stuff isn't going to work (not every ground terminal is common to every other ground terminal in those d-Sub connectors). On one system, I spoke with directly to a Garmin factory tech while holding the installation manual in my hand, and read off the pins that were connected. Even the Garmin tech failed to mention a (ground) pin that needed to be connected. Charlie (pro audio tech, consumer electronics tech and industrial electronics tech in various former lives)




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