Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:43 AM - Re: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:01 AM - Re: transmitter power attenuator (Jeff Page)
3. 07:41 AM - Butt Splice for #4 wire (johngoodman)
4. 07:44 AM - Re: transmitter power attenuator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:55 AM - Re: Butt Splice for #4 wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:00 AM - Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Ralph Finch)
7. 09:59 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 10:26 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Charlie England)
9. 10:34 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:59 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Charlie England)
11. 11:15 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (rayj)
12. 01:28 PM - Re: transmitter power attenuator (Christopher Cee Stone)
13. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: transmitter power attenuator (Christopher Cee Stone)
14. 05:27 PM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Lynn Cole)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors |
At 11:16 PM 4/6/2013, you wrote:
>4/7/2013
>
>Hello Again Bob Nuckolls, I thank you for your response copied below
>and I accept your recommendation.
>
>As an alternate means of connecting individual small wires together
>I seem to recall a technique of using D sub pins and sockets crimped
>onto the ends of the two wires and heat shrink tubing used to help
>hold the wires together.
>
>Is there anything published on using that technique?
Not much to publish . . . I think there are some photos
of wires joined with d-bub crimp pins on the website.
You just put mating pins on the wires to be joined,
stick them together and cover with heatsrhink. You've
created one-pin connectors with soft housings.
I think this thread started with a stated
goal of dealing with the Ray Allen actuator
wires. I gave up trying to convince first father
and then sons of the value of 22 awg leads -AND-
replacing two white motor wires with separate
colors so that the builder had a 100% chance of
wiring it right the first time! Check out this
article
http://tinyurl.com/cmq7epd
Bob . . .
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: transmitter power attenuator |
> From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com>
> But I haven't found any procedure
> for testing the transponder and ADS-B UAT which are 1090 Mhz and 978 Mhz
> without using their respective antennas.
Zaon makes two portable collision avoidance systems, the MRX and XRX.
Likely a local pilot will have one of these you could borrow.
Both will display the transponder code and altitude of what it is
transmitted by the local transponder.
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Butt Splice for #4 wire |
I have a #4 wire I need to put a new ring terminal on. It will make a tight reach.
I think it will work, but I considered a #4 butt splice - they make 'em. If
my new ring terminal makes it too short, my choice is adding a few inches of
new #4 with a butt splice, or replacing the entire 5 foot length (which won't
be easy to do).
Opinions, please
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398043#398043
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: transmitter power attenuator |
At 09:07 PM 4/6/2013, you wrote:
>Good Evening Bob,
>
>I bought one a year or so ago. The main thing I use it for is to be
>sure what my transponder is sending to the FEDs.. I set it on top of
>my glareshield and I can see what my stuff is telling the FED!
>
>I like it, but would prefer that it be smaller.
If the original designer/manufacturer were still
in business, it might have become smaller by now.
I met Daryl and Pat Phillips in OSH about 1990.
Their mom-n-pop business in Salisaw OK was rather
young then. Daryl was the one and only designer and
software writer. He was using Motorola 6800 series
chips as I recall.
The thing uses a rather large battery.
They sold the business to one of their employees
some years ago. To be sure, more modern processors,
components and materials offer opportunity for
shrinking the size down . . . and even making it run
on three or four AA cells. But I don't think
that's going to happen now.
It IS a pretty slick gizmo.
Bob . . .
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Butt Splice for #4 wire |
At 09:40 AM 4/7/2013, you wrote:
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>I have a #4 wire I need to put a new ring terminal on. It will make
>a tight reach. I think it will work, but I considered a #4 butt
>splice - they make 'em. If my new ring terminal makes it too short,
>my choice is adding a few inches of new #4 with a butt splice, or
>replacing the entire 5 foot length (which won't be easy to do).
How much original wire is easily accessible?
It would be decidedly unhandy to have a splice
in close proximity to the terminal end. Can you
cut the original wire back before splicing on
the extension?
What kind of #4 wire?
Bob . . .
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
Bob, reading your on-line article (URL below) reminded me of a
long-standing question.
In your article you use a specialty adhesive for "potting" or encapsulating
the soldered pins on a 9-pin D-sub-miniature connector. Unable to locate
that particular connector, I have used clear RTV. However later I read that
because of the acid in the RTV compound, RTV can attack soldered joints
(e.g. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages).
What compound, readily available, would you recommend for sealing or
encapsulating connectors?
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:42 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> http://tinyurl.com/cmq7epd
>
>
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
At 09:59 AM 4/7/2013, you wrote:
>Bob, reading your on-line article (URL below) reminded me of a
>long-standing question.
>
>In your article you use a specialty adhesive for "potting"
>or encapsulating the soldered pins on a 9-pin D-sub-miniature
>connector. Unable to locate that particular connector . . .
Did you mean to say 'connector' or 'adhesive'?
The d-sub is ubiquitous and available about everywhere
not the least of which is Radio Shack as suggested in
the article.
> I have used clear RTV. However later I read that because of the
> acid in the RTV compound, RTV can attack soldered joints (e.g.
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages).
"RTV" has been around for many years. I think I
first encountered one variant for the first time
while working at Hughes Aircraft back about 1963.
It smelled decidedly vinegar (acetic acid). RTV,
Room Temperature Vulcanizing, is a generic term that
speaks to hundreds of similar products. If one needs
the high temperature chemical resistance of silicon
encapsulants, there are 'electronic grade' RTVs. They
do not include acetic acid in their chemistry. I'm
pretty sure there are other forms equally free of
acid. One could also consider some of the acrylic
caulking compounds used for bathtubs and window
frames. Give it a sniff and avoid anything that
smells like pickles.
Sometime during "The Great Transition" from generators
to alternators at Cessna (about 1965) the regulator
of choice was a two-relay electro-mechanical
regulator from Ford.
http://tinyurl.com/d7ln4mt
Things moved along right smartly for a time
until field reports concerning alternator
runaway events. Failure analysis of the regulators
revealed that the plastic bobbin on which the
voltage regulation wires were wound was loose
on the pole core. The bobbin 'bounced' about
on the core causing failure of the small lead
wires. Deprived of any sense of voltage, the
regulator went balls-to-the-wall.
Somebody suggested that we pull all regulators
from stock, remove covers and spot-tack the
bobbins in place with RTV. Yeah, cool idea.
I don't recall if we did a field service bulletin
for doing the same thing on delivered aircraft
or perhaps the drill called for exchanging
regulators.
Again, things smoothed out until a short time
later, brand new 'modified' regulators from
stock failed to come alive in flight test.
Seems that fumes from curing RTV put enough
corrosion on the regulator contacts to disable
it. If the modification process had only
left the covers off for a few days to allow
all the fumes to dissipate, all would have been
right with the universe.
Needless to say, this triggered the Second Great
Thrashing to remove covers and buff contacts.
Ford eventually fixed this fundamental design flaw.
>What compound, readily available, would you recommend for sealing or
>encapsulating connectors?
The E6000 adhesive I've cited is everywhere.
Check the Walmart crafts and housewares adhesive
displays. ShoGoo sold in shoe stores is the
same stuff. Hardware and automotive parts stores
sell it under various sizes and trade names.
The common thread is water clear and smells like
dry cleaners.
Bob . . .
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
On 04/07/2013 11:57 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 09:59 AM 4/7/2013, you wrote:
>> Bob, reading your on-line article (URL below) reminded me of a
>> long-standing question.
>>
>> In your article you use a specialty adhesive for "potting"
>> or encapsulating the soldered pins on a 9-pin D-sub-miniature
>> connector. Unable to locate that particular connector . . .
>
> Did you mean to say 'connector' or 'adhesive'?
>
> The d-sub is ubiquitous and available about everywhere
> not the least of which is Radio Shack as suggested in
> the article.
>
>> I have used clear RTV. However later I read that because of the acid
>> in the RTV compound, RTV can attack soldered joints (e.g.
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages>).
>
> "RTV" has been around for many years. I think I
> first encountered one variant for the first time
> while working at Hughes Aircraft back about 1963.
> It smelled decidedly vinegar (acetic acid). RTV,
> Room Temperature Vulcanizing, is a generic term that
> speaks to hundreds of similar products. If one needs
> the high temperature chemical resistance of silicon
> encapsulants, there are 'electronic grade' RTVs. They
> do not include acetic acid in their chemistry. I'm
> pretty sure there are other forms equally free of
> acid. One could also consider some of the acrylic
> caulking compounds used for bathtubs and window
> frames. Give it a sniff and avoid anything that
> smells like pickles.
>
> Sometime during "The Great Transition" from generators
> to alternators at Cessna (about 1965) the regulator
> of choice was a two-relay electro-mechanical
> regulator from Ford.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/d7ln4mt <http://tinyurl.com/d7ln4mt>
>
> Things moved along right smartly for a time
> until field reports concerning alternator
> runaway events. Failure analysis of the regulators
> revealed that the plastic bobbin on which the
> voltage regulation wires were wound was loose
> on the pole core. The bobbin 'bounced' about
> on the core causing failure of the small lead
> wires. Deprived of any sense of voltage, the
> regulator went balls-to-the-wall.
>
> Somebody suggested that we pull all regulators
> from stock, remove covers and spot-tack the
> bobbins in place with RTV. Yeah, cool idea.
> I don't recall if we did a field service bulletin
> for doing the same thing on delivered aircraft
> or perhaps the drill called for exchanging
> regulators.
>
> Again, things smoothed out until a short time
> later, brand new 'modified' regulators from
> stock failed to come alive in flight test.
> Seems that fumes from curing RTV put enough
> corrosion on the regulator contacts to disable
> it. If the modification process had only
> left the covers off for a few days to allow
> all the fumes to dissipate, all would have been
> right with the universe.
>
> Needless to say, this triggered the Second Great
> Thrashing to remove covers and buff contacts.
> Ford eventually fixed this fundamental design flaw.
>
>> What compound, readily available, would you recommend for sealing or
>> encapsulating connectors?
>
> The E6000 adhesive I've cited is everywhere.
> Check the Walmart crafts and housewares adhesive
> displays. ShoGoo sold in shoe stores is the
> same stuff. Hardware and automotive parts stores
> sell it under various sizes and trade names.
> The common thread is water clear and smells like
> dry cleaners.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on
the package of RTV.
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
>If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe'
>on the package of RTV.
I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite
of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure
been the source of some consternation. It's akin
to "test this product on some insignificant or
hidden surface before proceeding".
Thanks for the heads-up.
Bob . . .
Message 10
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
On 04/07/2013 12:33 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>> If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on
>> the package of RTV.
>
> I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite
> of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure
> been the source of some consternation. It's akin
> to "test this product on some insignificant or
> hidden surface before proceeding".
>
> Thanks for the heads-up.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
*
*
Googling 'RTV sensor safe' will yield a lot of hits. Here's one:
http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-blue-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail
The text on the Permatex web site says 'now with low odor formula'.
That's usually another tell that the acetic acid isn't in that
particular product.
Even the old-school looking Permatex clear RTV now claims to be good for
sealing electrical wire, but I'm not sure I'd rely on that.
Charlie
Message 11
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
Another product to consider is "aquarium safe" RTV. I don't know if it
is safe for electrical components, but it is labeled as non toxic.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 04/07/2013 12:33 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>> If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on
>> the package of RTV.
>
> I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite
> of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure
> been the source of some consternation. It's akin
> to "test this product on some insignificant or
> hidden surface before proceeding".
>
> Thanks for the heads-up.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: transmitter power attenuator |
Bob, Bob et al,
Thanks for the info... My primary concern at this time was to insure I
wouldn't damage the xponder upon power up if I inadvertently hit the ident
button. As far as test equipment goes the shop should be able
to verify operation when I get my pitot/static check. The ADS-B checkout
is another matter. The Navworx box does have a self test that validates it
is receiving the serial data from the alt. encoder and displays the
output on the EFIS screen. Still need to learn the procedure for
validating communication with the ground station. The technology is still
in it's infancy as the FEDs are in process of adding ground stations to
re-transmit traffic and weather data. I'm still learning... but that's the
idea isn't it!
Chris
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:49 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:07 PM 4/6/2013, you wrote:
>
> Good Evening Bob,
>
> I bought one a year or so ago. The main thing I use it for is to be sure
> what my transponder is sending to the FEDs.. I set it on top of my
> glareshield and I can see what my stuff is telling the FED!
>
> I like it, but would prefer that it be smaller.
>
>
> If the original designer/manufacturer were still
> in business, it might have become smaller by now.
> I met Daryl and Pat Phillips in OSH about 1990.
> Their mom-n-pop business in Salisaw OK was rather
> young then. Daryl was the one and only designer and
> software writer. He was using Motorola 6800 series
> chips as I recall.
>
> The thing uses a rather large battery.
>
> They sold the business to one of their employees
> some years ago. To be sure, more modern processors,
> components and materials offer opportunity for
> shrinking the size down . . . and even making it run
> on three or four AA cells. But I don't think
> that's going to happen now.
>
> It IS a pretty slick gizmo.
>
>
> **
>
> ** Bob . . .
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 13
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: transmitter power attenuator |
Jeff,
Thanks... Great tip! I think my local FBO has them in a couple of
rentals.
chris
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 7:00 AM, Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com> wrote:
>
> From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com>
>> But I haven't found any procedure
>> for testing the transponder and ADS-B UAT which are 1090 Mhz and 978 Mhz
>> without using their respective antennas.
>>
>
> Zaon makes two portable collision avoidance systems, the MRX and XRX.
> Likely a local pilot will have one of these you could borrow.
>
> Both will display the transponder code and altitude of what it is
> transmitted by the local transponder.
>
> Jeff Page
> Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
>
>
Message 14
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) |
Most RTV contains arsenic to prevent mold from forming. You can't use
arsenic on an aquarium because it will kill the fish. Also, don't use
regular RTV on things like a dishwasher because you could get arsenic
poisoning.
-----
Lynn Cole
LynnCole@foxvalley.net
On Apr 7, 2013, at 1:15 PM, rayj wrote:
> Another product to consider is "aquarium safe" RTV. I don't know if
it is safe for electrical components, but it is labeled as non toxic.
> Raymond Julian
> Kettle River, MN.
>
> "And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
> and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
> On 04/07/2013 12:33 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>> If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe'
on the package of RTV.
>>
>> I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite
>> of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure
>> been the source of some consternation. It's akin
>> to "test this product on some insignificant or
>> hidden surface before proceeding".
>>
>> Thanks for the heads-up.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|