AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 04/07/13


Total Messages Posted: 14



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:43 AM - Re: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 07:01 AM - Re: transmitter power attenuator (Jeff Page)
     3. 07:41 AM - Butt Splice for #4 wire (johngoodman)
     4. 07:44 AM - Re: transmitter power attenuator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 07:55 AM - Re: Butt Splice for #4 wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 08:00 AM - Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Ralph Finch)
     7. 09:59 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 10:26 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Charlie England)
     9. 10:34 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 10:59 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Charlie England)
    11. 11:15 AM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (rayj)
    12. 01:28 PM - Re: transmitter power attenuator (Christopher Cee Stone)
    13. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: transmitter power attenuator (Christopher Cee Stone)
    14. 05:27 PM - Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob) (Lynn Cole)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:43:59 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Dolphin Electrical Wire Connectors
    At 11:16 PM 4/6/2013, you wrote: >4/7/2013 > >Hello Again Bob Nuckolls, I thank you for your response copied below >and I accept your recommendation. > >As an alternate means of connecting individual small wires together >I seem to recall a technique of using D sub pins and sockets crimped >onto the ends of the two wires and heat shrink tubing used to help >hold the wires together. > >Is there anything published on using that technique? Not much to publish . . . I think there are some photos of wires joined with d-bub crimp pins on the website. You just put mating pins on the wires to be joined, stick them together and cover with heatsrhink. You've created one-pin connectors with soft housings. I think this thread started with a stated goal of dealing with the Ray Allen actuator wires. I gave up trying to convince first father and then sons of the value of 22 awg leads -AND- replacing two white motor wires with separate colors so that the builder had a 100% chance of wiring it right the first time! Check out this article http://tinyurl.com/cmq7epd Bob . . .


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:01:10 AM PST US
    From: Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com>
    Subject: Re: transmitter power attenuator
    > From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com> > But I haven't found any procedure > for testing the transponder and ADS-B UAT which are 1090 Mhz and 978 Mhz > without using their respective antennas. Zaon makes two portable collision avoidance systems, the MRX and XRX. Likely a local pilot will have one of these you could borrow. Both will display the transponder code and altitude of what it is transmitted by the local transponder. Jeff Page Dream Aircraft Tundra #10


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:41:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Butt Splice for #4 wire
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    I have a #4 wire I need to put a new ring terminal on. It will make a tight reach. I think it will work, but I considered a #4 butt splice - they make 'em. If my new ring terminal makes it too short, my choice is adding a few inches of new #4 with a butt splice, or replacing the entire 5 foot length (which won't be easy to do). Opinions, please John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398043#398043


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:44:06 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: transmitter power attenuator
    At 09:07 PM 4/6/2013, you wrote: >Good Evening Bob, > >I bought one a year or so ago. The main thing I use it for is to be >sure what my transponder is sending to the FEDs.. I set it on top of >my glareshield and I can see what my stuff is telling the FED! > >I like it, but would prefer that it be smaller. If the original designer/manufacturer were still in business, it might have become smaller by now. I met Daryl and Pat Phillips in OSH about 1990. Their mom-n-pop business in Salisaw OK was rather young then. Daryl was the one and only designer and software writer. He was using Motorola 6800 series chips as I recall. The thing uses a rather large battery. They sold the business to one of their employees some years ago. To be sure, more modern processors, components and materials offer opportunity for shrinking the size down . . . and even making it run on three or four AA cells. But I don't think that's going to happen now. It IS a pretty slick gizmo. Bob . . .


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:55:45 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Butt Splice for #4 wire
    At 09:40 AM 4/7/2013, you wrote: ><johngoodman@earthlink.net> > >I have a #4 wire I need to put a new ring terminal on. It will make >a tight reach. I think it will work, but I considered a #4 butt >splice - they make 'em. If my new ring terminal makes it too short, >my choice is adding a few inches of new #4 with a butt splice, or >replacing the entire 5 foot length (which won't be easy to do). How much original wire is easily accessible? It would be decidedly unhandy to have a splice in close proximity to the terminal end. Can you cut the original wire back before splicing on the extension? What kind of #4 wire? Bob . . .


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:00:15 AM PST US
    From: Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch@gmail.com>
    Subject: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    Bob, reading your on-line article (URL below) reminded me of a long-standing question. In your article you use a specialty adhesive for "potting" or encapsulating the soldered pins on a 9-pin D-sub-miniature connector. Unable to locate that particular connector, I have used clear RTV. However later I read that because of the acid in the RTV compound, RTV can attack soldered joints (e.g. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages). What compound, readily available, would you recommend for sealing or encapsulating connectors? On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:42 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > http://tinyurl.com/cmq7epd > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:59:03 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    At 09:59 AM 4/7/2013, you wrote: >Bob, reading your on-line article (URL below) reminded me of a >long-standing question. > >In your article you use a specialty adhesive for "potting" >or encapsulating the soldered pins on a 9-pin D-sub-miniature >connector. Unable to locate that particular connector . . . Did you mean to say 'connector' or 'adhesive'? The d-sub is ubiquitous and available about everywhere not the least of which is Radio Shack as suggested in the article. > I have used clear RTV. However later I read that because of the > acid in the RTV compound, RTV can attack soldered joints (e.g. > <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages). "RTV" has been around for many years. I think I first encountered one variant for the first time while working at Hughes Aircraft back about 1963. It smelled decidedly vinegar (acetic acid). RTV, Room Temperature Vulcanizing, is a generic term that speaks to hundreds of similar products. If one needs the high temperature chemical resistance of silicon encapsulants, there are 'electronic grade' RTVs. They do not include acetic acid in their chemistry. I'm pretty sure there are other forms equally free of acid. One could also consider some of the acrylic caulking compounds used for bathtubs and window frames. Give it a sniff and avoid anything that smells like pickles. Sometime during "The Great Transition" from generators to alternators at Cessna (about 1965) the regulator of choice was a two-relay electro-mechanical regulator from Ford. http://tinyurl.com/d7ln4mt Things moved along right smartly for a time until field reports concerning alternator runaway events. Failure analysis of the regulators revealed that the plastic bobbin on which the voltage regulation wires were wound was loose on the pole core. The bobbin 'bounced' about on the core causing failure of the small lead wires. Deprived of any sense of voltage, the regulator went balls-to-the-wall. Somebody suggested that we pull all regulators from stock, remove covers and spot-tack the bobbins in place with RTV. Yeah, cool idea. I don't recall if we did a field service bulletin for doing the same thing on delivered aircraft or perhaps the drill called for exchanging regulators. Again, things smoothed out until a short time later, brand new 'modified' regulators from stock failed to come alive in flight test. Seems that fumes from curing RTV put enough corrosion on the regulator contacts to disable it. If the modification process had only left the covers off for a few days to allow all the fumes to dissipate, all would have been right with the universe. Needless to say, this triggered the Second Great Thrashing to remove covers and buff contacts. Ford eventually fixed this fundamental design flaw. >What compound, readily available, would you recommend for sealing or >encapsulating connectors? The E6000 adhesive I've cited is everywhere. Check the Walmart crafts and housewares adhesive displays. ShoGoo sold in shoe stores is the same stuff. Hardware and automotive parts stores sell it under various sizes and trade names. The common thread is water clear and smells like dry cleaners. Bob . . .


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:26:50 AM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    On 04/07/2013 11:57 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > At 09:59 AM 4/7/2013, you wrote: >> Bob, reading your on-line article (URL below) reminded me of a >> long-standing question. >> >> In your article you use a specialty adhesive for "potting" >> or encapsulating the soldered pins on a 9-pin D-sub-miniature >> connector. Unable to locate that particular connector . . . > > Did you mean to say 'connector' or 'adhesive'? > > The d-sub is ubiquitous and available about everywhere > not the least of which is Radio Shack as suggested in > the article. > >> I have used clear RTV. However later I read that because of the acid >> in the RTV compound, RTV can attack soldered joints (e.g. >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages >> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone#Disadvantages>). > > "RTV" has been around for many years. I think I > first encountered one variant for the first time > while working at Hughes Aircraft back about 1963. > It smelled decidedly vinegar (acetic acid). RTV, > Room Temperature Vulcanizing, is a generic term that > speaks to hundreds of similar products. If one needs > the high temperature chemical resistance of silicon > encapsulants, there are 'electronic grade' RTVs. They > do not include acetic acid in their chemistry. I'm > pretty sure there are other forms equally free of > acid. One could also consider some of the acrylic > caulking compounds used for bathtubs and window > frames. Give it a sniff and avoid anything that > smells like pickles. > > Sometime during "The Great Transition" from generators > to alternators at Cessna (about 1965) the regulator > of choice was a two-relay electro-mechanical > regulator from Ford. > > http://tinyurl.com/d7ln4mt <http://tinyurl.com/d7ln4mt> > > Things moved along right smartly for a time > until field reports concerning alternator > runaway events. Failure analysis of the regulators > revealed that the plastic bobbin on which the > voltage regulation wires were wound was loose > on the pole core. The bobbin 'bounced' about > on the core causing failure of the small lead > wires. Deprived of any sense of voltage, the > regulator went balls-to-the-wall. > > Somebody suggested that we pull all regulators > from stock, remove covers and spot-tack the > bobbins in place with RTV. Yeah, cool idea. > I don't recall if we did a field service bulletin > for doing the same thing on delivered aircraft > or perhaps the drill called for exchanging > regulators. > > Again, things smoothed out until a short time > later, brand new 'modified' regulators from > stock failed to come alive in flight test. > Seems that fumes from curing RTV put enough > corrosion on the regulator contacts to disable > it. If the modification process had only > left the covers off for a few days to allow > all the fumes to dissipate, all would have been > right with the universe. > > Needless to say, this triggered the Second Great > Thrashing to remove covers and buff contacts. > Ford eventually fixed this fundamental design flaw. > >> What compound, readily available, would you recommend for sealing or >> encapsulating connectors? > > The E6000 adhesive I've cited is everywhere. > Check the Walmart crafts and housewares adhesive > displays. ShoGoo sold in shoe stores is the > same stuff. Hardware and automotive parts stores > sell it under various sizes and trade names. > The common thread is water clear and smells like > dry cleaners. > > Bob . . . > > If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on the package of RTV.


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:34:29 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    >If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' >on the package of RTV. I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure been the source of some consternation. It's akin to "test this product on some insignificant or hidden surface before proceeding". Thanks for the heads-up. Bob . . .


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:59:23 AM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    On 04/07/2013 12:33 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on >> the package of RTV. > > I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite > of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure > been the source of some consternation. It's akin > to "test this product on some insignificant or > hidden surface before proceeding". > > Thanks for the heads-up. > > Bob . . . > > * * Googling 'RTV sensor safe' will yield a lot of hits. Here's one: http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-blue-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail The text on the Permatex web site says 'now with low odor formula'. That's usually another tell that the acetic acid isn't in that particular product. Even the old-school looking Permatex clear RTV now claims to be good for sealing electrical wire, but I'm not sure I'd rely on that. Charlie


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:15:56 AM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    Another product to consider is "aquarium safe" RTV. I don't know if it is safe for electrical components, but it is labeled as non toxic. Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN. "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine On 04/07/2013 12:33 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on >> the package of RTV. > > I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite > of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure > been the source of some consternation. It's akin > to "test this product on some insignificant or > hidden surface before proceeding". > > Thanks for the heads-up. > > Bob . . . > > * > > > *


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:28:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: transmitter power attenuator
    From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com>
    Bob, Bob et al, Thanks for the info... My primary concern at this time was to insure I wouldn't damage the xponder upon power up if I inadvertently hit the ident button. As far as test equipment goes the shop should be able to verify operation when I get my pitot/static check. The ADS-B checkout is another matter. The Navworx box does have a self test that validates it is receiving the serial data from the alt. encoder and displays the output on the EFIS screen. Still need to learn the procedure for validating communication with the ground station. The technology is still in it's infancy as the FEDs are in process of adding ground stations to re-transmit traffic and weather data. I'm still learning... but that's the idea isn't it! Chris On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:49 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 09:07 PM 4/6/2013, you wrote: > > Good Evening Bob, > > I bought one a year or so ago. The main thing I use it for is to be sure > what my transponder is sending to the FEDs.. I set it on top of my > glareshield and I can see what my stuff is telling the FED! > > I like it, but would prefer that it be smaller. > > > If the original designer/manufacturer were still > in business, it might have become smaller by now. > I met Daryl and Pat Phillips in OSH about 1990. > Their mom-n-pop business in Salisaw OK was rather > young then. Daryl was the one and only designer and > software writer. He was using Motorola 6800 series > chips as I recall. > > The thing uses a rather large battery. > > They sold the business to one of their employees > some years ago. To be sure, more modern processors, > components and materials offer opportunity for > shrinking the size down . . . and even making it run > on three or four AA cells. But I don't think > that's going to happen now. > > It IS a pretty slick gizmo. > > > ** > > ** Bob . . . > > * > > * > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:57:00 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: transmitter power attenuator
    From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com>
    Jeff, Thanks... Great tip! I think my local FBO has them in a couple of rentals. chris On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 7:00 AM, Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com> wrote: > > From: Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator@gmail.com> >> But I haven't found any procedure >> for testing the transponder and ADS-B UAT which are 1090 Mhz and 978 Mhz >> without using their respective antennas. >> > > Zaon makes two portable collision avoidance systems, the MRX and XRX. > Likely a local pilot will have one of these you could borrow. > > Both will display the transponder code and altitude of what it is > transmitted by the local transponder. > > Jeff Page > Dream Aircraft Tundra #10 > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 05:27:14 PM PST US
    From: Lynn Cole <LynnCole@foxvalley.net>
    Subject: Re: Encapsulating connectors (Quest. for Bob)
    Most RTV contains arsenic to prevent mold from forming. You can't use arsenic on an aquarium because it will kill the fish. Also, don't use regular RTV on things like a dishwasher because you could get arsenic poisoning. ----- Lynn Cole LynnCole@foxvalley.net On Apr 7, 2013, at 1:15 PM, rayj wrote: > Another product to consider is "aquarium safe" RTV. I don't know if it is safe for electrical components, but it is labeled as non toxic. > Raymond Julian > Kettle River, MN. > > "And you know that I could have me a million more friends, > and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine > On 04/07/2013 12:33 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >>> If an auto supply house is more convenient, look for 'sensor safe' on the package of RTV. >> >> I've not heard of that label. To be sure, in spite >> of the acetic RTV capabilities it has for sure >> been the source of some consternation. It's akin >> to "test this product on some insignificant or >> hidden surface before proceeding". >> >> Thanks for the heads-up. >> >> Bob . . . >> >> >> >> > > > >




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