Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: Master Switch/Contactor and Starter Questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 10:52 AM - Boeing switches (woxofswa)
3. 12:36 PM - Re: Boeing switches (Peter Pengilly)
4. 01:22 PM - Re: Good deal on handy bench supply ()
5. 05:56 PM - Re: Good deal on handy bench supply (nuckollsr)
6. 07:12 PM - Re: Boeing switches (Eric Page)
7. 08:11 PM - Re: Boeing switches (Eric Page)
8. 08:47 PM - Wire strippers (Jeff Page)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Master Switch/Contactor and Starter Questions |
At 04:30 PM 7/1/2013, you wrote:
><dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
>
>Based on everyone's inputs and logic, I will use a normal aircraft
>style contactor for the battery. The aircraft is a Pietenpol with a
>Corvair engine and my arms are not long enough to reach the battery
>in the engine compartment from the rear cockpit. I would be
>interested in a low current one if it could handle the starter
>current when closed.
It's easy to craft a contactor-coil-current-manager.
See:
http://tinyurl.com/bolkoyc
Contactors like the EV series from Tyco will
do something similar . . . although probably
in a micro-cotroller.
>The aircraft will have LED lights/strobes, Microair radio and
>transponder, individual electric instruments, and conventional
>ignition. No landing light or heated pitot. I'm figuring a maximum
>of 10 amps so the dynamo has enough output to "hold" a contactor in
>addition to the normal load.
Okay, you're not 'hurting' for energy under
normal conditions. A e-bus alternate feed path
that bypasses the contactor could be crafted for
your panel bus.
> The 680 battery was chosen for no better reason than it works in
> motorcycles and ATVs. Would love to use something lighter if it
> will turn over the engine reliably.
The 680 will crank an IO720 . . . there are many
batteries will crank the Corvair engine.
> I am not primarily concerned with a long endurance
> capability. Any kind of electrical issue, or mechanical for that
> matter, is a land at the nearest suitable field signal and I fly on
> the east coast where 30 minutes of battery power will generally get
> you on the ground, even at Pietenpol airspeeds.
Do you plan to carry a hand-held?
>The Corvair uses a Subaru starter which has an almost zero weld
>closed failure rate so I'm still thinking of running a large wire
>from the battery contactor to the big lug on the starter and using
>the starter solenoid as an independent way to turn the engine
>over. Two less junctions in the high current path.
Your cranking path stresses are no worse and probably
much less than those for tens of thousands of single
engine airplanes. Modifications to the legacy
battery/battery-contactor/starter-contactor/starter
configuration has no calculable return on investement.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Greetings. I am trying to infuse a couple of little touches of my day job into
my RV-10 project. To that end, I have purchased the yoke of a B737 and cut off
the uprights to use as the stick grips of my -10.
I would obviously like to the Boeing pitch trim, PTT, and A/P disconnect switches
if possible.
The latter two should be easy, but the Pitch trim might be a problem. Boeing uses
a two part switch mechanism and there are four leads that come from the module.
(http://s125.photobucket.com/user/myronnelson/media/photo_zpsfd9c6ca8.jpg.html)
What I am trying to do is interface these four leads into a Safety Trim three lead
connection. Keeping the split switch capability would be okay, but not necessary.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403817#403817
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing switches |
Myron,
Without the logic backing up how this is connected its difficult to
suggest how to use both switches. I would connect common ground (pin 7 I
think) to WHT/Vxx (connected to A1 & A3) and the trim up/down inputs to
B3 (WHT/GRN I think) and to B1 (WHT/BLU/ORN?), leaving the WHT/RED not
connected. You would be using the top switch only, but I don't think
that's a problem in service.
Regards, Peter
On 02/07/2013 18:50, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Greetings. I am trying to infuse a couple of little touches of my day job into
my RV-10 project. To that end, I have purchased the yoke of a B737 and cut
off the uprights to use as the stick grips of my -10.
>
> I would obviously like to the Boeing pitch trim, PTT, and A/P disconnect switches
if possible.
>
> The latter two should be easy, but the Pitch trim might be a problem. Boeing
uses a two part switch mechanism and there are four leads that come from the
module.
>
> (http://s125.photobucket.com/user/myronnelson/media/photo_zpsfd9c6ca8.jpg.html)
>
> What I am trying to do is interface these four leads into a Safety Trim three
lead connection. Keeping the split switch capability would be okay, but not
necessary.
>
> Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit
and FWF kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403817#403817
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Good deal on handy bench supply |
Hi Bob, Listers,
I just got the used Mastertech HY5003 bench power supply from ebay.
I have no experience with CC CV powers supplies and this one came without a manual
or any paperwork.
How should I test it to make sure it is working properly?
Thanks
Rumen
do not archive
---- nuckollsr <bob.nuckolls@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
============
I've owned several variants on this product. Still have one. It services about
95% of my power supply needs.
http://tinyurl.com/pp9o5k4
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Good deal on handy bench supply |
Given the generally upstanding nature of eBay merchants and buyers, it's unlikely
that the power supply you bought is faulty. Here's Mastech's page on that model
http://tinyurl.com/lqh7hea
At the bottom you'll find an e-mail link. Drop them a line, tell them what model
of power supply you have and that you want a copy of the user's manual. I think
they'll tell you were to download it . . . or attach it directly to their
reply.
Bob . . .
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403837#403837
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing switches |
Myron,
What is the pinout of the Safety Trim 3-lead connection (i.e. what inputs does
it require from the switch)? I presume there's a common ground and one pin each
for trim nose up and trim nose down. Can you confirm?
Can we get a clearer photo of the switch module legend?
It may be possible to accomplish what you want with relays, or some 4000-series
logic ICs, or a simple micro-controller.
I presume your preferred outcome is to retain the "both switches must be closed"
logic for the trim switches, as in the Boeing.
Eric
On Jul 2, 2013, at 12:50 PM, "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com> wrote:
> Greetings. I am trying to infuse a couple of little touches of my day job into
my RV-10 project. To that end, I have purchased the yoke of a B737 and cut
off the uprights to use as the stick grips of my -10.
>
> I would obviously like to the Boeing pitch trim, PTT, and A/P disconnect switches
if possible.
>
> The latter two should be easy, but the Pitch trim might be a problem. Boeing
uses a two part switch mechanism and there are four leads that come from the
module.
>
> (http://s125.photobucket.com/user/myronnelson/media/photo_zpsfd9c6ca8.jpg.html)
>
> What I am trying to do is interface these four leads into a Safety Trim three
lead connection. Keeping the split switch capability would be okay, but not
necessary.
>
> Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit
and FWF kit in progress.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing switches |
Myron,
After looking at this a little more, I have to agree with Peter. I was definitely
over-thinking it!
The "both switches must be closed" logic is internal to the module. They simply
have the two thumb switches wired in series.
Peter's advice below should work.
Eric
On Jul 2, 2013, at 2:35 PM, Peter Pengilly <peter@sportingaero.com> wrote:
>
> Myron,
>
> Without the logic backing up how this is connected its difficult to suggest how
to use both switches. I would connect common ground (pin 7 I think) to WHT/Vxx
(connected to A1 & A3) and the trim up/down inputs to B3 (WHT/GRN I think)
and to B1 (WHT/BLU/ORN?), leaving the WHT/RED not connected. You would be using
the top switch only, but I don't think that's a problem in service.
>
> Regards, Peter
Message 8
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I bought a pair of cheap wire strippers to see how good/bad they were.
They appear to be a far east clone of the Ideal Stripmaster, and the
mounting is such that the Ideal blades would fit.
They turned out to be as cheap as they could be made, but still work.
I had to take them apart to bend a spring to make them open in the
correct sequence so the wire doesn't get caught after stripping.
I would not recommend them for someone doing a lot of wiring - say an
airplane ;-) but they are better than the kind that has a single flat
blade that just rips the insulation.
The die handles 8, 10, 12, 14, 18 gauge wire, so it is missing sizes
commonly used for aircraft.
I bought them from Princess Auto (Canadian equivalent of Harbor
Freight) for $4.99. They are not a regularly stocked item, so when
they are gone, they are gone. My local store had 17 pairs in stock
after being advertised starting on June 25th. The product number is
8276172.
http://www.princessauto.com
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
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