Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:38 AM - Choosing the switches for an RV-10 (Carlos Trigo)
2. 07:05 AM - Re: Trouble transmitting... (Tom Chapman)
3. 08:02 AM - Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:47 AM - Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 (Roger & Jean)
5. 09:02 AM - Jabiru alternator noise-what really causes it? (Chris)
6. 09:36 AM - Re: Jabiru alternator noise-what really causes it? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 10:42 AM - Re: Jabiru alternator noise-what really causes it? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:57 PM - Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 (Richard Girard)
9. 08:09 PM - Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Choosing the switches for an RV-10 |
Guys
It's time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder which
ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or just
2 separate toggle switches?
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed
switch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary
starter switch?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the
choice: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions, both in the technical and the functional aspects
Carlos
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trouble transmitting... |
Thanks Bob and Dave!
I have a starting point now and will get going on it tomorrow...
Tom
>
> ...reception is perfect
> ...transmit light on A200 illuminating
> ...my radio is being heard by ATC intermittently
>
> Where should I start troubleshooting?
>
> Given the long history of un-eventful and
> satisfactory performance, the first rocks
> to peek under are things most likely to
> have CHANGED.
>
> The first thing I would do is get an SWR/PWR
> meter and check both transmitter power output
> -AND- antenna SWR. Two things that might have
> changed is condition of the transmitter's power
> output stages or condition of the antenna
> and its feed line.
>
> Here's a good example of a tool for this task.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/k4t2pn9
>
> We reviewed this product here on the List a
> couple of years ago. It's a great performer
> at a very reasonable price. Every EAA chapter
> ought to have one to lend to members. Problems
> like these yield only to quantifiable measurement.
>
> If you acquire one of these, you will want to
> acquire N-male to F-BNC adapters.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ksmdxch
>
> and a short piece of good coax (about 2' long)
> with a BNC-Male on each end.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/cgr42l5 (scroll down to RB-142 Cable Assemblies)
>
> Lord Kelvin expressed it thusly:
> =9CWhen you can measure what you are speaking about,
> and express it in numbers, you know something about it,
> when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
> is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind; it may be the
> beginning of knowledge, but you have scarcely, in
> your thoughts advanced to the stage of science.=9D
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 |
At 04:37 AM 7/7/2013, you wrote:
Guys
It's time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder
which ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker
or just 2 separate toggle switches?
The split rocker switch functionality can be
duplicated by a progressive transfer switch
of any other style. There's nothing 'magic'
or extraordinary convenience for having purchase
the split rocker switch.
http://tinyurl.com/kdqwahq
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined
keyed switch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button
momentary starter switch?
Similarly, there is nothing 'magic' about
functionality of the legacy key-switch . . .
which is expensive and takes up a lot of room
http://tinyurl.com/ch3yly
Your choice as to 'better'. What are your design
goals for appearance, functionality, and cost
of ownership? Is ease of fabrication, installation
and wiring important to you?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the
choice: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions, both in the technical and the functional aspects
Over the years, we've had many discussions about switch selection
on the List. If one surveys the constellation of completed
airplanes in possession of List members it is a certainty
that you will find a broad range of styles.
If it were my airplane, I would go 100% toggle switches
for the following reasons:
Easy to mount in ROUND hole made with spotfacer, stepdrill
or punch. Contrast this with the $time$ and effort to
craft rectangular holes for rocker switches.
http://tinyurl.com/m45n4f7
Functionally interchangeable switches are made by a host
of manufacturers. Rocker switches are manufacturer specific.
Replacing a switch calls for acquiring the same switch
from the same manufacturer.
Here's an exemplar set of switch arrangements
tailored to system complexity.
http://tinyurl.com/ljkw3ju
I suggest the toggle switch fitted with fast-on
terminals represents the lowest cost, greatest
ease of installation and maintenance.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 |
I suggest the toggle switch fitted with fast-on
terminals represents the lowest cost, greatest
ease of installation and maintenance.
Another thing you might want to keep in mind in your design is that
some states / localities require that 2 key accesses be used to enter
and start the aircraft. One of the keys can be to access the door /
canopy entry and as a second key you might use a simple key switch, in a
round hole, and with fast-on terminals, used in series with the start
button. A failure of this switch, wired in this configuration would
prevent you from starting the aircraft, but would not affect engine
operation once it is running.
Roger
Message 5
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| Subject: | Jabiru alternator noise-what really causes it? |
Hi All
A friend of mine has purchased a Zodiac 601 with a Jabiru engine. The
problem was originally lots of noise in the headsets. We rewired the
grounding , installed a forest of tabs on the firewall proper ground
strap to the engine. This cleared up all the noise and the receive side
of the radio is clear. The problem now is when transmitting there is a
loud side tone type noise along with the verbal transmission, this noise
gets worse with higher rpm.. The transmission of voice is clear and
fairly loud, but the hum that accompanies it is very annoying to
controllers. We disconnected the alternator (dynamo) and the noise
disappears. The alternator puts out about 15 amps and is a bit on the
small side for his application. Jabiru suggests twisting the two
alternator wires together which we did and we also shielded them with no
change. My question is what actually causes this, and is there a way
to get rid of it? It is a Microaire radio, using the built in intercom.
I did try a capacitor on the main bus to ground with little or no
effect.
Thanks Chris
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru alternator noise-what really causes it? |
At 11:02 AM 7/7/2013, you wrote:
Hi All
A friend of mine has purchased a Zodiac 601 with a Jabiru engine.
The problem was originally lots of noise in the headsets. We rewired
the grounding , installed a forest of tabs on the firewall proper
ground strap to the engine. This cleared up all the noise and the
receive side of the radio is clear. The problem now is when
transmitting there is a loud side tone type noise along with the
verbal transmission, this noise gets worse with higher rpm.. The
transmission of voice is clear and fairly loud, but the hum that
accompanies it is very annoying to controllers. We disconnected the
alternator (dynamo) and the noise disappears. The alternator puts out
about 15 amps and is a bit on the small side for his application.
Jabiru suggests twisting the two alternator wires together which we
did and we also shielded them with no change. My question is what
actually causes this, and is there a way to get rid of it? It is a
Microaire radio, using the built in intercom. I did try a capacitor
on the main bus to ground with little or no effect.
Is the microphone jack electrically isolated
from the airframe? Further, does it's ground wire
route in parallel with mic audio and ptt lines
back to the radio?
Does this airplane have an intercom? Does transmit
audio route through the intercom? Are intercom
communications 'clean' or equally plagued with
alternator noise?
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru alternator noise-what really causes |
it?
At 11:02 AM 7/7/2013, you wrote:
Hi All
A friend of mine has purchased a Zodiac 601 with a Jabiru engine.
The problem was originally lots of noise in the headsets. We rewired
the grounding , installed a forest of tabs on the firewall proper
ground strap to the engine. This cleared up all the noise and the
receive side of the radio is clear. The problem now is when
transmitting there is a loud side tone type noise along with the
verbal transmission, this noise gets worse with higher rpm.. The
transmission of voice is clear and fairly loud, but the hum that
accompanies it is very annoying to controllers. We disconnected the
alternator (dynamo) and the noise disappears. The alternator puts out
about 15 amps and is a bit on the small side for his application.
Jabiru suggests twisting the two alternator wires together which we
did and we also shielded them with no change. My question is what
actually causes this, and is there a way to get rid of it? It is a
Microaire radio, using the built in intercom. I did try a capacitor
on the main bus to ground with little or no effect.
Is the microphone jack electrically isolated
from the airframe? Further, does it's ground wire
route in parallel with mic audio and ptt lines
back to the radio?
Does this airplane have an intercom? Does transmit
audio route through the intercom? Are intercom
communications 'clean' or equally plagued with
alternator noise?
P.S. Where are the alternator and battery
grounded? To the Forest=of=Tabs?
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 |
Carlos, I always use two toggles for the mags, and SPST key switch for the
starter contactor and a pushbutton starter switch. It's cheaper if any of
them fail and by having the mags separate from the starter switch I can
turn the engine over for maintenance or diagnostics without worry that the
engine will accidentally start.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 10:46 AM, Roger & Jean
<mrspudandcompany@verizon.net>wrote:
> **
> * I suggest the toggle switch fitted with fast-on
> terminals represents the lowest cost, greatest
> ease of installation and maintenance.
> *
> **
>
> Another thing you might want to keep in mind in your design is that some
> states / localities require that 2 key accesses be used to enter and start
> the aircraft. One of the keys can be to access the door / canopy entry and
> as a second key you might use a simple key switch, in a round hole, and
> with fast-on terminals, used in series with the start button. A failure of
> this switch, wired in this configuration would prevent you from starting
> the aircraft, but would not affect engine operation once it is running.
>
> Roger
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches for an RV-10 |
At 09:52 PM 7/7/2013, you wrote:
>Carlos, I always use two toggles for the mags, and SPST key switch
>for the starter contactor and a pushbutton starter switch. It's
>cheaper if any of them fail and by having the mags separate from the
>starter switch I can turn the engine over for maintenance or
>diagnostics without worry that the engine will accidentally start.
Good point. I think you've mentioned this before.
I'll try to remember to add it to my list of
PRO-toggle arguments.
Bob . . .
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