Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:00 AM - Imagination + Craftsmanship: A most powerful tool (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 02:40 PM - Re: Ground block (faston vs. ring) (eschlanser)
3. 06:28 PM - Re: Ground block (faston vs. ring) (donjohnston)
4. 10:22 PM - Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out (Paul Kuntz)
5. 11:53 PM - Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out (Paul Kuntz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Imagination + Craftsmanship: A most powerful tool |
The planet is blessed with exceptional craftsmen who
choose to exercise their skills in a variety of ways.
<http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ccb_1375442777>http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ccb_1375442777
Examples to emulate as we hammer aluminum, steel and wire
into manifestations of our own skills and imaginations.
The combination of thinking + doing that produces the best
of good and useful things.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block (faston vs. ring) |
Don, Try this:
http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/CustomGroundBlock/GroundBlock.htm
After seeing it, I decided to craft my own using a K&S brass plate 12"x1"x0.064, from my hardware store, some 1258-ND tabs from Digikey, and a 5/16" x 1.5" bolt. The large brass bolt was the hardest to find (although I could have asked B&C to sell me one of theirs). I found brass washers and a bolt in short sizes from www.boltdepot.com. I saw they had a bronze bolt and decided to go with that for the extra strength to clamp down on the brass plate.
Actually, two brass plates, one on each side of the firewall, with 6 tabs on the
front and more on the aft side.
Now I need to figure out how many tabs I will need. I'm not forced to use 24 or
48. And how to solder the tabs on.
Eric - building GRT HXr/430W/327 panel on a W-10/Lyc O320 with Z-13/8
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406420#406420
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block (faston vs. ring) |
eschlanser wrote:
> Don, Try this:
>
> http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/CustomGroundBlock/GroundBlock.htm
>
Nice. Looks like he used aluminum as the block. Since it's such a large piece,
I guess it may be an acceptable substitute for brass or copper.
> After seeing it, I decided to craft my own using a K&S brass plate 12"x1"x0.064, from my hardware store, some 1258-ND tabs from Digikey, and a 5/16" x 1.5" bolt. The large brass bolt was the hardest to find (although I could have asked B&C to sell me one of theirs). I found brass washers and a bolt in short sizes from www.boltdepot.com. I saw they had a bronze bolt and decided to go with that for the extra strength to clamp down on the brass plate.
> Actually, two brass plates, one on each side of the firewall, with 6 tabs on
the front and more on the aft side.
> Now I need to figure out how many tabs I will need. I'm not forced to use 24
or 48. And how to solder the tabs on.
>
> Eric - building GRT HXr/430W/327 panel on a W-10/Lyc O320 with Z-13/8
Sounds like what I'm looking to do.
Thanks!
Don
Velocity XL-RG, Vertical Power VPx-Pro, GRT HXr, remote avionics, Cont IO-550N.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406422#406422
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
Thanks for the tips, everyone. I concur with Bob that my Ducati regulator
is done for and should be replaced. I will take a look at the
Schicke unit that Peter mentioned.
Cheers,
Paul Kuntz
On Friday, August 9, 2013, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 12:55 PM 8/9/2013, you wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the tip. I'll check this cooling shroud idea. I'm also
>> wondering if my regulator has already been compromised. Any opinions on
>> what my repeated fail/recover situation indicates? I would guess that it
>> cycled between failed and recovered 8 or 10 times before we established a
>> state where it stayed on line, limited to a total current draw of 3 amps.
>>
>
> If your regulator can't carry 10A without cooling, it's
> probably broke. A functional part should be capable of
> rated output for the alternator which is on the order
> of 18A. I've not heard of any mass-movements to forced
> air cool these regulators.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
The plane has a total of 75 hrs; ditto the engine and electrical system, so
it's all basically brand new. The system voltage has always read 13.8 or
13.9 volts when the engine is running at normal flight RPMs, except for the
drop-out periods I've described. It may drop below 13 volts at low RPM on
the ground, but I believe that's normal.
I've never seen the load go above 12 amps. 9 or 10 amps seems like the
normal load with everything running. It's perhaps 2 amps less with the
autopilot disengaged.
The voltage regulator is on the cabin side of the firewall, mounted on a
fairly large metal plate that stands off from the firewall about
three-fourths of an inch. The firewall is composite with an insulating
asbestos (or similar) fire-resistant blanket on the engine side. The cabin
side never gets more than warm to the touch. I agree with the replies that
say the Ducati regulator should handle both the load and the environment
fine with no additional forced air flow. After reviewing all the replies, I'm
inclined to just install a new one and see how it goes before I try to make
changes to the system design, such as switching to a different regulator.
Seems like there should be plenty of head room in the existing system.
Paul Kuntz
On Friday, August 9, 2013, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
>
> At 11:46 PM 8/8/2013, you wrote:
> I have a homebuilt Pipistrel Sinus with a Rotax 912 UL that I flew to
> Oshkosh and back last week. The panel has a dual Dynon Skyview display with
> two-axis autopilot, plus radio and transponder. The total electrical load
> with everything running is 7 to 8 amps. Occasionally it can go to 9 or 10
> amps if I'm charging cell phone and iPad en route. I'm pretty confident
> that I have the electrical system wired so that the ammeter is measuring
> the total electrical load.
>
> The alternator dropped out once on the outbound trip, but came back after
> removing the iPad charging load. The symptom was a voltage drop from 13.8
> volts to 12.5 volts, which seemed strange. On preflight the voltage may
> read that high for a minute or so on a freshly-charged battery, but it
> quickly drops to 12.2 or 12.1 volts. In flight, the voltage would drop to
> 12.5 volts and stay there for several minutes. I would think that if the
> alternator had failed, I'd see the voltage drop to the same 12.1 volts that
> I see on preflight, and keep dropping slowly. I can't see why it would
> drop to 12.5 volts and stay there, unless the voltage regulator is failing
> in a way that I'm not familiar with.
>
> Batteries charge at 13.8 and above, they deliver energy
> at 12.5 and below. Regulators are set to charge batteries
> so a functioning alternator produces a bus voltage generally
> above 14.0 volts.
>
> The alternator dropped out (same symptoms) a few times on the trip back,
> but by reducing the load to 3 amps (one Skyview display, radio and
> transponder), it stayed on line except for awhile when it seemed that the
> mid-day sun shining on the dashboard was adding extra heat behind the
> panel. That time we brought it back by directing cool air from a fresh air
> vent forward toward the spot where the voltage regulator is mounted inside
> the cabin on the back side of the firewall.
>
> So the problem seems to be heat-related. Does this make sense? The Rotax
> alternator is supposed to be rated for 18 amps, and able to handle a steady
> load of 14 amps easily. Does the Ducati regulator have a thermal
> self-protect cutout? Do I perhaps have a regulator that is ready to fail
> completely, or should I just put an avionics cooling fan behind the panel
> to get the air moving?Any other ideas?
>
> How long has this regulator been in service? 10A is
> a pretty light load for a 912 regulator. I suspect
> something has become intermittent.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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