Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:12 AM - Re: OT: bad circuit breaker? (rayj)
2. 01:20 AM - soldering steel stud into lead clamp. (rayj)
3. 02:32 AM - Re: soldering steel stud into lead clamp. (R. curtis)
4. 05:34 AM - Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit (user9253)
5. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit (Paul Thomson)
6. 07:22 AM - Re: Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit (Paul Thomson)
7. 08:16 AM - Good Multi-Meter recommendation (Andy Hawes)
8. 08:43 AM - Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation (Robert Borger)
9. 08:56 AM - Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation (Andy Hawes)
10. 09:33 AM - Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation (Ed Gilroy)
11. 09:37 AM - Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation (thomas sargent)
12. 10:22 AM - Re: Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 10:24 AM - Re: Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OT: bad circuit breaker? |
Final report on the air conditioner problem. As I was standing there
watching the unit with the amp meter around the wire to the compressor I
saw it jump from about 9 amps (which was too high anyway) and saw it
jump to 16+ amps and then the breaker opened. The motor is shot.
Thanks to everyone who consulted on this problem.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 08/24/2013 10:10 PM, rayj wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I've owned it since new and used it in the same application for
> years. It takes atleast 5 min and maybe more for the current to creep
> up. It puts out cold air when it's running, so I'm guessing it's the
> compressor motor. I gave it a good cleaning before I installed it this
> summer and it operated correctly for more than a month. It's a small
> window unit soif I can't tinker it back to life it'll be less
> expensive to replace than to have someone work on it. I'll check
> everything you mentioned. Thanks very much for the advice.
> Raymond Julian
> Kettle River, MN.
>
> "And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
> and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
> On 08/24/2013 09:51 PM, Ken wrote:
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> I look for dirty condenser fins, slow turning fan, or dented
>> restricted high pressure line all of which cause high current.
>>
>> Then I make sure the compressor really is starting and coming up to
>> speed. ie it is not just a bad starting capacitor or start relay
>> keeping the start winding running and tripping the breaker in a few
>> seconds after startup. There are several clues when that happens but
>> it may not be obvious as the compressor does appear to start up.
>>
>> If I don't own it I then advise replacing the unit.
>>
>> If I do own it and it is expensive (or I feel like tinkering), I
>> start wondering about it's history and whether there is any moisture
>> in the refrigerant or someone has put the wrong refrigerant in so I
>> evacuate, dry, and put in new refrigerant. Then I'd follow my advice
>> to others in the above paragraph.
>>
>> Ken
>> (no expert but I've done some HVAC work)
>> do not archive
>>
>> On 24/08/2013 10:06 PM, rayj wrote:
>>> I've got the unit out. I'll check, but I'm willing to bet it's the
>>> compressor. I can't imagine the fan consuming that much energy and not
>>> self destructing. And something resets after a short while and the
>>> cycle
>>> starts over.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | soldering steel stud into lead clamp. |
Greetings,
I have a lead battery clamp with a threaded hole that I want to put a
stud into. Can I just solder apiece of steel threaded rod into the lead
hole??
I'm guessing brass or bronze would be better, but I've got the steel in
stock.
Any guidance on doing it, if it's acceptable, would be appreciated.
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: soldering steel stud into lead clamp. |
I have a lead battery clamp with a threaded hole that I want to put a stud
into. Can I just solder a piece of steel threaded rod into the lead hole=3F=3F
I would put in an insert then install the stud. There are a few differen
t kinds available, some that screw into the hole and others that go in and
expand like a pop rivet. Cabinet workers use the screw in type that have b
arbs to keep them from unscrewing. (available at your local hardware store)
Roger
--
Do you have a slow PC=3F Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfi
ghter=3Fcid=sigen
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit |
During a phone conversation with Ron Lendon, I learned that shielded wire was not
used for the mic jack. I am thinking that replacing the two individual wires
with shielded cable might not help reduce the alternator whine. Bob, I would
appreciate your comments on the advantages of shielded wire for the mic jack.
Thanks, Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408331#408331
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit |
I was planning to be over in the morning, but probably leaving early aftern
oon.=0A=0A=0AWhere is the waiver doc for sign-ins?=0A=0A=0Apt=0A=0A=0A_____
___________________________=0A From: user9253 <fransew@gmail.com>=0ATo: aer
oelectric-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 7:33 AM
=0ASubject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit=0A
m>=0A=0ADuring a phone conversation with Ron Lendon, I learned that shielde
d wire was not used for the mic jack.- I am thinking that replacing the t
wo individual wires with shielded cable might not help reduce the alternato
r whine.- Bob, I would appreciate your comments on the advantages of shie
lded wire for the mic jack.=0AThanks, Joe=0A=0A--------=0AJoe Gores=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/view
===========
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit |
Sucks when you reply to the wrong email...=0A=0Asorry=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______
_________________________=0A From: Paul Thomson <cyav8r@yahoo.com>=0ATo: "a
eroelectric-list@matronics.com" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> =0ASent:
Tuesday, September 10, 2013 8:46 AM=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: A
lternator Whine in Radio Transmit=0A =0A=0A=0AI was planning to be over in
the morning, but probably leaving early afternoon.=0A=0A=0AWhere is the wai
ver doc for sign-ins?=0A=0A=0Apt=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0A From: user9253 <fransew@gmail.com>=0ATo: aeroelectric-list@matronics.co
m =0ASent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 7:33 AM=0ASubject: AeroElectric-List
: Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit=0A =0A=0A--> AeroElectric-List mes
sage posted by: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>=0A=0ADuring a phone conversa
tion with Ron Lendon, I learned that shielded wire was not used for the mic
jack.- I am thinking that replacing the two individual wires with shield
ed cable might not help reduce the alternator whine.- Bob, I would apprec
iate your comments on the advantages of shielded wire for the mic jack.=0AT
hanks, Joe=0A=0A--------=0AJoe Gores=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online h
ere:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408331#408331 http:
//www.matronics.com/Navigat=- - - - - - - - MATRONICS WEB
FORUMS href="http://forums.matronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forum
s.matr - - - - - - - - - - &nbs//www.matronics.com/cont
ribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.co========
=========
Message 7
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| Subject: | Good Multi-Meter recommendation |
Hi folks,
Looking for a good multi-meter for my project. Any recommendations?
Thanks very much --
Andy Hawes
Fatboy Flightworks
www.fatboyflightworks.com
andy717@comcast.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation |
Andy,
There are dozens of inexpensive, robust, good multimeters available from places
like Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Find
one that has the functions you need, feels reasonably well built and buy it.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi folks,
Looking for a good multi-meter for my project. Any recommendations?
Thanks very much --
Andy Hawes
Fatboy Flightworks
www.fatboyflightworks.com
andy717@comcast.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation |
Thanks Bob --
On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, Robert Borger wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
> There are dozens of inexpensive, robust, good multimeters available from places
like Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.
Find one that has the functions you need, feels reasonably well built and buy
it.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com
>
> On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Looking for a good multi-meter for my project. Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks very much --
>
>
> Andy Hawes
> Fatboy Flightworks
> www.fatboyflightworks.com
> andy717@comcast.net
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation |
The best one I ever bought was a Fluke and I got it used on Craigslist for
$40.
There are some great used deals out there if you want something more high
end.
Watch out for Fluke displays on older units, but you can replace them
cheaply from eBay repair kits.
On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 11:55 AM, Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks Bob --
>
> On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, Robert Borger wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> > There are dozens of inexpensive, robust, good multimeters available from
> places like Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Lowe's, Home Depot,
> etc. Find one that has the functions you need, feels reasonably well built
> and buy it.
> >
> > Blue skies & tailwinds,
> > Bob Borger
> > Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
> > Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> > 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> > Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> > Cel: 817-992-1117
> > rlborger@mac.com
> >
> > On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi folks,
> >
> > Looking for a good multi-meter for my project. Any recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks very much --
> >
> >
> > Andy Hawes
> > Fatboy Flightworks
> > www.fatboyflightworks.com
> > andy717@comcast.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Good Multi-Meter recommendation |
I used a low-end Fluke meter. It cost me about $70 (well, 10 years ago).
Works very well, though the display acquired some defects after a while. I
was in the electronics business for many years and we used a lot of Fluke
stuff. The meters are very accurate and have nice high input impedance.
I remember that when I soldered a lug on the end of my #2 battery cable I
used it to try to measure the resistance while the cable was still pretty
hot. I was mystified when it showed a few ohms. But as the cable cooled,
the displayed resistance decreased, ultimately to 0. It was showing me the
thermocouple effect in the junction between the copper and the solder!
That junction was a (very wimpy) source of EMF which was throwing off the
resistance measurement, but that is remarkable sensitivity in a $70 meter.
On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 8:55 AM, Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks Bob --
>
> On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, Robert Borger wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> > There are dozens of inexpensive, robust, good multimeters available from
> places like Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Lowe's, Home Depot,
> etc. Find one that has the functions you need, feels reasonably well built
> and buy it.
> >
> > Blue skies & tailwinds,
> > Bob Borger
> > Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
> > Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> > 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> > Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> > Cel: 817-992-1117
> > rlborger@mac.com
> >
> > On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi folks,
> >
> > Looking for a good multi-meter for my project. Any recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks very much --
> >
> >
> > Andy Hawes
> > Fatboy Flightworks
> > www.fatboyflightworks.com
> > andy717@comcast.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
Tom Sargent
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit |
At 07:33 AM 9/10/2013, you wrote:
>
>During a phone conversation with Ron Lendon, I learned that shielded
>wire was not used for the mic jack. I am thinking that replacing
>the two individual wires with shielded cable might not help reduce
>the alternator whine. Bob, I would appreciate your comments on the
>advantages of shielded wire for the mic jack.
>Thanks, Joe
>
>--------
>Joe Gores
Shielded wire is 99.9% probability of NOT being
the solution. Shielding breaks a capacitive coupling
between a strong antagonist wire with large, fast
rise signals on it and some vulnerable victim carrying
small, easily corrupted signals.
Alternator noise coupled into a vulnerable system
is most likely to be bus noise to a poorly qualified
device, magnetically coupled from some fat wire carrying
alternator current, or a ground loop.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Whine in Radio Transmit |
At 03:26 PM 9/9/2013, you wrote:
>
>The head sets jacks are insulated and grounded back to the single
>point ground with everything else. Do I need to move that ground
>wire directly to the intercom unit?
Yes.
Bob . . .
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