Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:30 AM - Re: Change of business model . . . (toddheffley)
2. 08:10 AM - 430 Start-up Delay (Jeff Luckey)
3. 10:31 AM - Re: engine pressure senders installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 10:33 AM - Re: Re: Question about Z-19 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 10:34 AM - Re: Re: Change of business model . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 03:49 PM - Fat wires and plumber's solder (B Tomm)
7. 05:33 PM - Re: Fat wires and plumber's solder (Charlie England)
8. 06:13 PM - Re: Fat wires and plumber's solder (rayj)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Change of business model . . . |
Bob
We are in exactly the same situation.
We provide a small volume of test equipment into a ultra specialized market.
www.av-ts.com
I have so much respect for the quality of your past work I would like to talk to
you about your decision,
sales@av-ts.com if you would be interested in further conversation.
Todd
--------
WWW.toddheffley.com
www.theinterconnectco.com for lighting products
AV-TS.com for Jet Aircraft Test Equipment
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418688#418688
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | 430 Start-up Delay |
Bob,=0A=0AYou asked me to time the boot/start-up delay of my Garmin 430W.
- Here's what I found.=0A=0AThe short answer is 1 min 13 seconds to re-st
art.=0A=0AHere's the scenario:=0A=0A1. After the 430 initialized, I dialed-
in Clearance Delivery & got my clearance.=0A2. Entered my flight plan & sav
ed.=0A3. Started engine & 430 re-booted - it came back to the Nav screen in
1 min 13 sec=0A=0AI waited for that duration before I could see the freque
ncy display to tune Ground Control freq for taxi.- =0A=0AThe Comm part of
the 430 begins to operate in a few seconds after power-up.- It's the GPS
& display that take 1:13 to initialize.- So, if I had remembered to swit
ch from CD to Ground before engine start, I could have used the radio (even
though I can't see the frequency display) and began my taxi much sooner.
- I remember that about 50% of the time.- It would be nice if it did no
t re-boot in the first place.=0A=0A=0A=0A-Jeff=0A=0APS - In a posting a few
weeks ago, someone thought that the 430 stored only 10 flight plans.- It
actually stores 19 flight plans plus the Active flight plan.=0A
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: engine pressure senders installation |
At 12:56 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:
><ceengland7@gmail.com>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>
>What was the nature of the failures? I was envisioning the sender
>breaking off at the threads.
Yes . . . that's the bottom end of the moment arm
upon which mass of the attached hardware is vibrated.
>Was it some sort of internal failure, instead? Most current RV-x
>builders do remote mount the sensor, but they seem to survive on a
>lot of motors when they are direct- mounted. If there is a high
>percentage of failures on the Rotax, I wonder if it's caused by the
>very different frequency of vibration from the Rotax, compared to
>most other engines running at constant-RPM.
The short, low mass sensor is just fine threaded into
it's designated port on the engine. It's the extension
with non-ferrous materials and adding more mass on the
end that sets up the scenario for failure.
Bob . . .
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Question about Z-19 |
At 02:08 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:
>Please ignore my request for details on the notes, I did find it in the book.
Good. I was going to point you there. If you're pondering
a Z-19 installation, consider also Z-07
http://tinyurl.com/my9u3ud
. . . the work in progress. Much simpler and, I belive,
capable of equal or better reliability for the electrically
dependent auto derivative engine.
Bob . . .
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Change of business model . . . |
At 07:28 AM 2/14/2014, you wrote:
><public@toddheffley.com>
>
>Bob
>
>We are in exactly the same situation.
>
>We provide a small volume of test equipment into a ultra specialized market.
>
>www.av-ts.com
>
>I have so much respect for the quality of your past work I would
>like to talk to you about your decision,
>
>sales@av-ts.com if you would be interested in further conversation.
>
>Todd
Sure! What do you have in mind?
Bob . . .
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Fat wires and plumber's solder |
Bob,
I am in the process of integrating a power input module (Cole Hersee 11041)
see http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/248/11041/ and am wondering
about the best method for connecting a heavy wire to it. The power port is
sized for "up to" 0 AWG wire but the biggest I want to connect to it is 4 or
maybe 2 AWG. The 11041 uses a brass solder socket and is way too big for 2
awg wire. What is the best way to fill up excess space in the socket? I
don't want to simply fill it with solder. Maybe some short wire segments
same length as the depth of the socket?
The second question comes to solder. Normally we don't solder much on
aircraft (at least I haven't) and all of my solder rolls at work are very
small diameter for electronics with flux inside. If I was to use this
solder, I would probably use a ton to tin and drown the heavy wire into the
brass cup. So I had a look at some plumbing solder that I had left over
from a plumbing project. I recall that plumbing solder is not to be used
for electrical connections (corrosive?) but it is nice and thick (maybe
3/16ths) and the label says "LEAD FREE" and "SILVER". I can understand that
for potable water systems, lead free is a good idea but is it really lead
free and is it really silver solder? Most importantly, can this be used for
a beefy electrical solder job?
It might be a good time to have a discussion on plumbing solder and why it
should or should not be used for electrical stuff.
Thanks
Bevan
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Fat wires and plumber's solder |
On 2/14/2014 5:48 PM, B Tomm wrote:
>
>
> Bob,
>
> I am in the process of integrating a power input module (Cole Hersee 11041)
> see http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/248/11041/ and am wondering
> about the best method for connecting a heavy wire to it. The power port is
> sized for "up to" 0 AWG wire but the biggest I want to connect to it is 4 or
> maybe 2 AWG. The 11041 uses a brass solder socket and is way too big for 2
> awg wire. What is the best way to fill up excess space in the socket? I
> don't want to simply fill it with solder. Maybe some short wire segments
> same length as the depth of the socket?
>
> The second question comes to solder. Normally we don't solder much on
> aircraft (at least I haven't) and all of my solder rolls at work are very
> small diameter for electronics with flux inside. If I was to use this
> solder, I would probably use a ton to tin and drown the heavy wire into the
> brass cup. So I had a look at some plumbing solder that I had left over
> from a plumbing project. I recall that plumbing solder is not to be used
> for electrical connections (corrosive?) but it is nice and thick (maybe
> 3/16ths) and the label says "LEAD FREE" and "SILVER". I can understand that
> for potable water systems, lead free is a good idea but is it really lead
> free and is it really silver solder? Most importantly, can this be used for
> a beefy electrical solder job?
>
> It might be a good time to have a discussion on plumbing solder and why it
> should or should not be used for electrical stuff.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bevan
>
Before you use it, you might want to price what it will cost you to
replace it. :-) Real silver solder does have a significant percentage of
silver in it.
Bob has a 'comic book' showing how to fill out the space in the crimp
ring with short lengths of copper wire. Basically, cut short (~1/2")
pieces of #12 or #14 solid wire (cut it from household 'romex' wiring),
sharpen one end, & drive it into the strands of your cable in the open
end of the connector until it's filled tight with copper. Then solder.
It's usually plumbing flux that's corrosive, not the solder itself,
unless you have some with flux made into the solder (unlikely with
plumbing solder). However, one issue besides the price of silver solder
is that it usually requires a higher temperature, so you're more likely
to melt your insulation.
Charlie
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Fat wires and plumber's solder |
My experience with lead/tin plumbing solder is that it is frequently
available in "acid core" configuration in 1 and 5 lb. spools. The lead
free plumbing solder, which is typically solid wire, is a 95% tin/ 5%
antimony alloy. It does have a higher melting point than the typical
lead/ tin alloys, with or without an "acid core". How it's melting
point compares with silver bearing solder, I don't know. I don't know
what it's electrical properties are either.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 02/14/2014 07:32 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> <ceengland7@gmail.com>
>
> On 2/14/2014 5:48 PM, B Tomm wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I am in the process of integrating a power input module (Cole Hersee
>> 11041)
>> see http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/248/11041/ and am wondering
>> about the best method for connecting a heavy wire to it. The power
>> port is
>> sized for "up to" 0 AWG wire but the biggest I want to connect to it
>> is 4 or
>> maybe 2 AWG. The 11041 uses a brass solder socket and is way too big
>> for 2
>> awg wire. What is the best way to fill up excess space in the
>> socket? I
>> don't want to simply fill it with solder. Maybe some short wire
>> segments
>> same length as the depth of the socket?
>>
>> The second question comes to solder. Normally we don't solder much on
>> aircraft (at least I haven't) and all of my solder rolls at work are
>> very
>> small diameter for electronics with flux inside. If I was to use this
>> solder, I would probably use a ton to tin and drown the heavy wire
>> into the
>> brass cup. So I had a look at some plumbing solder that I had left over
>> from a plumbing project. I recall that plumbing solder is not to be
>> used
>> for electrical connections (corrosive?) but it is nice and thick (maybe
>> 3/16ths) and the label says "LEAD FREE" and "SILVER". I can
>> understand that
>> for potable water systems, lead free is a good idea but is it really
>> lead
>> free and is it really silver solder? Most importantly, can this be
>> used for
>> a beefy electrical solder job?
>>
>> It might be a good time to have a discussion on plumbing solder and
>> why it
>> should or should not be used for electrical stuff.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bevan
>>
> Before you use it, you might want to price what it will cost you to
> replace it. :-) Real silver solder does have a significant percentage
> of silver in it.
>
> Bob has a 'comic book' showing how to fill out the space in the crimp
> ring with short lengths of copper wire. Basically, cut short (~1/2")
> pieces of #12 or #14 solid wire (cut it from household 'romex'
> wiring), sharpen one end, & drive it into the strands of your cable in
> the open end of the connector until it's filled tight with copper.
> Then solder.
>
> It's usually plumbing flux that's corrosive, not the solder itself,
> unless you have some with flux made into the solder (unlikely with
> plumbing solder). However, one issue besides the price of silver
> solder is that it usually requires a higher temperature, so you're
> more likely to melt your insulation.
>
> Charlie
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|