Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - Linear Actuator Position (Owen Baker)
2. 07:28 AM - Re: Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic Ignition (user9253)
3. 07:38 AM - Re: Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic Ignition (user9253)
4. 07:45 AM - Re: noise problem on radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:23 AM - Re: noise problem on radio (Sacha)
6. 01:33 PM - Re: Linear Actuator Position (The Kuffels)
7. 07:37 PM - Re: Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic Ignition (Bob McCallum)
Message 1
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Subject: | Linear Actuator Position |
2/25/2014
Hello James Baldwin, Are you expecting this simple circuit to also
include how to create an indicator or display? There are already
indicators in existence that require only simple wire connections.
1) See here:
http://www.firgelli.com/Uploads/Pos%20datasheet.pdf
at this home page:
http://www.firgelli.com/products.php
2) See here:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html
with this wiring instruction:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsRP3.pdf
at this home page:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/servos.html
I think that any ohm differences between your actuator and the
indicators can either be rather easily overcome with help from some
electrical guru or just ignored with the indicator still working
effectively.
OC
PS: What linear actuator are you using and for what purpose? I have a
few spare actuators that may be of help.
'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to
gather and understand information."
==============
Time: 06:55:51 PM PST US
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Linear Actuator Position
From: James Baldwin <1james.baldwin@gmail.com>
Hey Electronic Guys --
Does anybody have a schematic for a simple circuit to show the position
of
the wiper on a 10k potentiometer? The leads are at each end of the
resistor and one additional one for the wiper. I was thinking of a few
LEDs that would light up depending on position of the wiper. Or maybe
something that would light up when the actuator was centered. I also
have
a GRT EFIS if that could be used instead if anyone knows how. Thank you
for the help.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic Ignition |
There is no fuse to protect the battery and wires from an alternator short circuit.
I assume that the LEDs have a built-in resistor.
ELTs do not normally require aircraft power.
Replace 10 amp contactor coil fuses with 3 amp.
Contactor and relay coils need diodes to short out high induced voltages.
Main buses are not normally fused. The 60 amp fuse is not big danger, but it costs
money, has weight and is one more thing to go wrong.
I see no reason to have two contactors in series to feed the emergency bus. In
fact, it doubles that chances of losing power to the bus.
It is good to feed the avionics bus in two places, but the 5 amp fuses might blow.
A relay is not necessary to indicate a blown turn coordinator fuse. Just put the
LED in parallel with the fuse. Or buy a fuse that glows when blown, available
in 3 amp or larger. Van's Aircraft sells them.
The diode will reduce charging voltage to the aux battery, not necessarily a problem.
Schottky diodes drop less voltage.
There is a long, unprotected, always-hot wire between the battery and the master
switch. Instead, most aircraft switch the negative side of the master contactor.
Many builders have tried to improve on Bob Nuckolls' electrical architecture, but few have succeeded. You are probably better off using one of his drawings, perhaps Z-10/8 without the dynamo circuit. http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
or even one like this is much less complicated: http://forum.matronics.com/download.php?id=37766
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419325#419325
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic Ignition |
If the emergency bus is inadvertently turned on during engine cranking, avionics
bus fuses will blow.
As is, there is no brownout protection for the avionics bus during engine cranking.
The aux battery could be used for that purpose.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419326#419326
Message 4
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Subject: | noise problem on radio |
At 03:46 PM 2/22/2014, you wrote:
>
>Thank you Bob,
>I went back and inspired by your comment about Mr. Clue, I carefully
>observed the phenomenon without jumping to conclusions. It turns out the
>interference only happens when the (Trio Avionics Pro Pilot) Autopilot is
>ON, even if the engine is OFF.
Good work!
> Attached is a link to a video with sound
>
>The interference happens in the form of a RX signal on the radio. In other
>words, whatever is happening is causing the COM radio to think it's
>receiving a transmission, as is evidenced by the RX signal that's visible on
>the GNS430 screen.
Okay, it's perceived as a radiated signal that
comes in through the antenna coax. Have you
checked SWR on the comm antenna? If your shield
ground is loose at the radio, it can open a
pathway for conducting otherwise insignificant
signals into the receiver.
Is there an installation/wiring manual for the
AP that can be downloaded from the 'net? Also,
you could 'sniff' around with a handheld. I'd
craft a couple of probes to put onto your hand-held's
antenna jack.
An e-field probe consisting of a dime-sized
disk supported on about an inch off the back
end of the BNC connector. Also an h-field probe
consisting of two turns of wire about 3/4" diam
connected across a BNC connection on 1" of twisted
leads.
Open the squelch on the hand held and move the
attached probes over components and wiring of the
a/p to see if you can identify the strongest
manifestation of the noise.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | noise problem on radio |
> Attached is a link to a video with sound
>
>The interference happens in the form of a RX signal on the radio. In
>other words, whatever is happening is causing the COM radio to think
>it's receiving a transmission, as is evidenced by the RX signal that's
>visible on the GNS430 screen.
Okay, it's perceived as a radiated signal that
comes in through the antenna coax. Have you
checked SWR on the comm antenna?
No, I haven't. Is it worth getting my hands on an SWR meter?
If your shield ground is loose at the radio, it can open a
pathway for conducting otherwise insignificant
signals into the receiver.
You mean that the coax shield could not connected or improperly connected to
the appropriate BNC terminal? I actually have the coax connected to a
backplate connector to which the GNS430 connector slides into, so I guess
there is extra potential there for them not to properly connect (e.g. if the
radio is not properly slotted into the backplate connector).
Is there an installation/wiring manual for the
AP that can be downloaded from the 'net?
http://www.trioavionics.com/Pro%20Pilot%20Manual%203.8.pdf
Also,
you could 'sniff' around with a handheld. I'd
craft a couple of probes to put onto your hand-held's
antenna jack.
I sniffed around yesterday with the handheld and its regular antenna. What
I noticed was that as soon as I switch on the Avionics and the handheld
antenna is close to them, I hear a bunch of noise, but I guess that's
normal. When I switch on the AP and move the handheld antenna close to the
servo cables (that are shielded), I can hear a stronger kind of buzzing
noise. I really have to be almost touching those shielded cables though in
order to pick anything up. I didn't try putting the antenna close to the
radio's COM coax connector though.
An e-field probe consisting of a dime-sized
disk supported on about an inch off the back
end of the BNC connector. Also an h-field probe
consisting of two turns of wire about 3/4" diam
connected across a BNC connection on 1" of twisted
leads.
Do you have any pictures of how to build these? Is this
http://www.emcesd.com/tt120100.htm the right idea?
Open the squelch on the hand held and move the
attached probes over components and wiring of the
a/p to see if you can identify the strongest
manifestation of the noise.
Bob
Thanks again for the suggestions!
Regards
Sacha
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Linear Actuator Position |
James,
<< schematic for a simple circuit to show the position of the wiper on
a 10k potentiometer >>
At $20, the 10 segment Firgelli indicator mentioned by Owen Baker is
hard to beat. It appears to be "smart" in the sense it measures
absolute voltage, not voltage relative to the buss value. This means
the 10k potentiometer needs to be fed with a constant voltage such as
provided by an LM7805 IC regulator.
If you insist on building a simpler display the attached 5-level
indicator uses less than $5 in parts.
Tom
Message 7
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Subject: | Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic Ignition |
Justin;
1. The 10A fuse on the starter relay serves no purpose.
2. Closing the switch leading from the "emergency" buss to the Blue
Mountain EFIS back feeds the whole avionics buss through the 5amp fuse. It
will most certainly fail. (and if the avionics master is closed also back
feeds the main buss) What you're trying to do requires a second diode coming
from the avionics buss, not just the single diode you've shown.
3. The four circuits on the left of the "emergency" buss back feed the
main buss, making it impossible to isolate and also most likely the fuses
will fail as they are likely not large enough in combination to support the
whole of the electrical load. Guaranteed to fail if you touch the "starter"
switch with the master off. Each of these four circuits, similar to above,
require two diodes each to achieve what you've attempted to accomplish.
4. The "master" switch should be switching the ground side of the
master relay, not the "live".
5. I don't see any active "low voltage" warning, unless that is the
function of the circuit you've labeled "alt fault"?? Does your regulator
support low voltage notification?? Many "alternator failure" lights do not
achieve this goal.
6. Does your ELT actually require aircraft power?? This is rather
unusual.
7. Nothing should be an "emergency". The word should not be part of an
electrical system. In Bob's terms when the alternator fails, you revert to
the pre-thought-out "plan B" which may entail switching off the main buss
and relying on the "Endurance" buss for minimal electrical loads to get you
to your destination. It shouldn't constitute an "emergency".
8. "Pulling fuses" should not be part of your "plan B' scenario, but I
see a note whereby you "pull in case of buss failure". Switches are more
convenient. In a "properly designed" electrical system there is no need to
have any fuses accessible in flight. Nothing individually should be
"critical" and troubleshooting should be done after the flight is over, not
in the air.
9. Suggest reading AeroElectric connection and studying some of the "Z"
drawings as most of what you are trying to achieve is elegantly covered and
will allow you to fly, in the case of most failures, until you exhaust your
fuel supply. (assuming proper battery maintenance)
10. By all means re-invent the wheel if you wish, that's what
"experimental" is all about, but understand what's been developed before and
the reasons behind why it's been done the way it was, and then tweak to suit
your unique requirements.
11. As for your question on solid state relays, be aware that they are
very reliable as long as they are properly heatsinked and kept within their
ratings. We use them at work and get fantastic reliability as long as we
over rate them. When operating at their design limits there are some
failures, both fail open and fail closed. We've found that if we load them
in the 30% to 50% range they are close to perfect. (no failures) Their chief
advantage is very limited power consumption to operate the relay itself,
conserving an extra amp or two of load to add to your battery endurance.
Heat is their enemy and that's the reason behind de-rating to ensure they
stay cool. We always keep them under 50% current rating.
12. Keep asking, we'll help you sort it out to be head and shoulders
better than spam cans and achieve the reliability you require.
Bob McC
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Justin
Jones
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2014 10:39 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wiring for Aircraft With Dual Electronic
Ignition
I am fairly unexperienced and new at the experimental building hobby. I am
building a Bushcaddy L164 and I am putting dual electronic ignition on it.
I absolutely need this to work at all times since I am flying over
non-forgiving terrain in Alaska. The new systems are very reliable and I am
confident that with a redundant system (EIGN-4-2R through the company fly
EFII ) I will be fine as long as I can supply power to the system. I have
drawn up a schematic on how I plan to wire the system and wanted some input
from some experts out there to see if I have done anything incorrectly. I
have attached the diagram. I have also considered using solid state relays
in the system. I would use them for all of the relays except the starter
relay. Any thoughts on this? I have found solid state relays that are
rated for all of my applications to include the Battery Master (rated at
300A continuous and 500A for 1 sec).
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Justin
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