AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 05/20/14


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:36 PM - Re: Schematic Z-17 questions (Matt Stecher)
     2. 08:37 PM - Re: Re: Schematic Z-17 questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:36:05 PM PST US
    From: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Schematic Z-17 questions
    Thanks for your responses Bob, I have purchased an Aerovolts 12 cell lithium battery to give a try. It is billed as the choice for cranking an O-200 and is 4.4"x3.4"x4" and 2.5 lbs. I am shooting for an aft installation and as you said that will let me keep my heavy wires short. I would like to put it in the main spar, but not sure about drilling holes in it to run the wires out or for mounting the battery. If that does not work I am looking at the hell hole above the landing gear attachment. If the aft locations prove more trouble than they are worth than I am looking at the traditional battery spot in the nose and 2AWG wires. It warm most of the time here near Houston, but we do get a week or two worth of almost cold weather. Regards, Matt Stecher Katy TX Varieze N54EG rebuild Time: 11:47:50 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Schematic Z-17 questions At 01:21 PM 5/18/2014, you wrote: ><mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net> > >I am rewiring a VeriEze (with O-200A) and putting in a new panel. > >Weight is always a factor and I am trying to keep it light, but after >discussions with the gang, I am now convinced that a starting system >(vs prop start) is next to mandatory. > >So the simplest system that meets this need is the Z-17 design, but I >would like to use the B&C 200G (12amp) alternator instead of the SD8 >(noted in the diagram). The SD-8 and the 200G are interchangeable schematic wise. Are you going with light weight starter too? Are you vfr and keeping magnetos? If so, you COULD consider a really light lithium battery mounted aft such that all your fat wires are short. >Is it a drop in substitute without modification to the wiring diagram? Yes . . . >And is the 4AWG wiring for starting and primary ground wires still >sufficient? Might even drop to 6AWG if the leads were short as hypothesized above . . . But if your battery has to go up front, you can probably get by with 4AWG in warm weather country . . . which may be a given with the VeriEze . . . Bob . . .


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:37:32 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Schematic Z-17 questions
    At 09:33 PM 5/20/2014, you wrote: ><mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net> > >Thanks for your responses Bob, > >I have purchased an Aerovolts 12 cell lithium battery to give a try. It is >billed as the choice for cranking an O-200 and is 4.4"x3.4"x4" and 2.5 lbs. Hmmmm . . . I'd sure like to do a family of cap check curves on it . . . I've looked over their website. They seem to offer a 'special charger' for 'improved life' but also says 'no special charger necessary'. Did any paperwork come with the battery that cautions about deep discharge and/or making sure the bus voltage is not too high? >I am shooting for an aft installation and as you said that will let me keep >my heavy wires short. I would like to put it in the main spar, but not sure >about drilling holes in it to run the wires out or for mounting the battery. >If that does not work I am looking at the hell hole above the landing gear >attachment. > >If the aft locations prove more trouble than they are worth than I am >looking at the traditional battery spot in the nose and 2AWG wires. It warm >most of the time here near Houston, but we do get a week or two worth of >almost cold weather. 4AWG is about 300 micro-ohms per foot WARM (160F from cranking). Assuming 24' round trip, a 200A cranking current will toss off 1.44 volts in the wire. 2AWG is 200 micro-ohms per foot and wouldn't warm up as much . . . so figure about 0.9 volts in wire drop for a net savings of about 0.5 volts out of a total of 9-10 volts at the starter motor terminals. 4AWG would probably be fine. Bob . . .




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